Cutting Tabletop Advice Needed

[john whittaker]

My BIL has a solid oak oval table approx 62" x 40" (without leaf) that he wants cut down to 54" x 40". I plan on placing the tabletop face down on the table saw and cut 4" off the centerline of each half. However, the apron is glued on and not removable. It is rounded and not easy to fit with a backing block to avoid chip-out.
I have a cabinet saw and a sharp blade with a zero clearance insert. I don't view chip-out as a problem on the table top but was a bit concerned about cutting the apron. Any comments??? Does anyone have any suggestions or red flag alarms?
He has a leaf and said I could "practice" on it before cutting the actual table. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks - John W

[tod evans]

i would advise making a template of the table first and then remove the section from the template and see if the resulting shape is acceptable.....if you remove a section of an ellipse it tends to look odd when you`re done.......02 tod

[Roy Wall]

some blue "painters tape" along the cut line (both the table top face and the apron).

Are you planning on making a sled?......for accuracy and eliminate scratching the table top........

[john whittaker]

Todd...good point. I'll advise him and recommend A 1/4" MDF template. Thanks for the 02.

Roy...I wasn't considering a sled. But the point about scratching is a good one. Maybe I could double stick the MDF template (above) as a base to save the table top. I was planning on using several Grrripers to keep the straight edge against the fence. Also taking the legs off to make handling easier. Painters tape is a trick I used to use and forgot about. Thanks for the brain jog.

Any other suggestions????

[Doug Shepard]

For the apron you might try taking some 1/4" or 1/8" plywood and bending/clamping it to the apron as a backing block. If you're removing width along the centerline, wouldn't the curved edge have to be up against the fence?
Personally if this were my project I'd use a straightedge guide and a circular saw. I'm just not comfortable wrestling pieces that large over the TS, especially when you've only got one chance to get it right. The MDF template laying on top would still stop any chipout there. Just my $0.02.

[Kent Parker]

I think Doug has the right idea.

Be safe. Don't move the big table. Sit it down, get a straight edge and cut away the 4".. You can finish up the edge with a router bit with a roller bearing and straight guide. As far as the apron, is it dimentioned so you could cut it with a fine tooth hand saw? a little hand planing and then sand paper wrapped around a block of wood?

When all else fails, resort to hand work and patience :) What a great project to hone your skills!

Oh, and what Tod said.....After you cut it might not be as fair a line as the BIL wants;)

Cheers,

Kent

[Howard Acheson]

>> However, the apron is glued on and not removable.

Just curious. How can this be if the tabletop is solid wood? A solid wood tabletop will expand/contract quite a bit due to seasonal humidity changes. The apron would inhibit this movement and cause some type of problems like warping or cracking.

Sure it's not a compositon or plywood of some type?

[tod evans]

>> However, the apron is glued on and not removable.

Just curious. How can this be if the tabletop is solid wood? A solid wood tabletop will expand/contract quite a bit due to seasonal humidity changes. The apron would inhibit this movement and cause some type of problems like warping or cracking.

Sure it's not a compositon or plywood of some type?

good point howard! there really are few solid wood tops residing in most homes. if this piece is oak and the top is glued tight it would have self distructed years ago unless the builder figured a way to counteract movement i haven`t seen.....02 tod

[john whittaker]

You guys just keep on coming up with possible snags...which is EXACTLY what I asked for...Thanks.
I have not seen this table yet, but Howard's point is well made. The table was purchased from a place that advertised "solid oak furniture" but I'll be sure to check before surgery. Perhaps the two ends & leaf are not long enough to have wood movement be a problem. Or maybe it's laminated.

Thanks again for the good advice.

Howard, I sometimes kayak & fish around Southport. Great spot.

[Alan Burhop]

The table was purchased from a place that advertised "solid oak furniture"

I've had sales guys tell me this or that was made of solid wood. I always laugh and correct them by showing them which peices are plywood.