Convince me I need a track saw.

[Tom Bussey]

Out side of general carpentry, the only use I have for use a circular saw is to brake down sheet goods to a manageable size. And price verses amount of time spent using it determines the cost value ratio. I broke down the two sheets of plywood in about 15 minutes, actual cutting time less than 1 minutes for both pieces. only two 8 foot rips. Having read that a lot of people like track saws to brake down sheet goods. One of my question is how many sheets of plywood do you actually brake down in a year for your hobby? I know I have been woodworking for over 40 years and new things have hit the market I have researched a track saw somewhat and don't see the value to me

One of the reason I am writing this is to maybe help to put out some information that may help a newbie get a different perspective on what is needed to advance in the craft. I feel that we are being heavily influenced by marketing. Rockler has a small parts tapering sled for sale for $79 and some change and the sled I do straight line ripping is the same sled or principle.

460573 460574 460575

I built a little clamp on table to help hold and support long boards when cutting at the table saw. Take the four pieces of plywood cut in the pictures above, I ran each through the table saw with the factory edge against the fence. Then the cut edge against the fence to get rid of the factory cut. ( I had a little extra to cut off) Now if I wish to brake them down farther I just adjust the rip fence. Cross cutting is a different animal and can be a later topic.
The next pictures just happen to be a sled and a straight line rip on a piece of hard wood. The saw mill I get my lumber from doesn't straight line rip. For me it is a safety issue, I like a straight side against the fence for any other cuts in the board.

460576 460577 460578

Other uses of the infeed table

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On lumber that I straight line rip I prefer to cut them into shorter lengths with a battery saber saw.
Also I can flip the sled with the board over and use a router with a pattern bit to finish the edge on boards that are to lone to straighten effectively on a jointer.

I showed here my solution to the things I struggled with for years. A torsion box cutting table with fold up legs. No longer do I have to get on my hands and knees to cut plywood. I can put a sheet of OSB on it and I have an assembly table. My wife just used it for a garage sale. I have a couple of small block that are the distance from the edge of the circular saw to the fence to I can accurately position the fence to my cut line.

I thought I would also mention that I can do plunge cut with a circular saw so it is not a good reason to go to Menards and buy a cheap $100 track saw.

And lastly Blue Spruce has a 4 inch sliding bevel gauge on sale for $119.99. Can throwing money at a hobby elevate your skill level? I some what view a track saw along those lines but I think very handy is space is limited.

[Edward Weber]

I agree with most of what you said.
To me, a track saw is just a tool, nothing more nothing less. If you need it, buy, use it, don't use it, what ever.
In some situations, a track may be the best choice for the job but it's not the only choice or the best choice for every job.
A track saw is not a cure all for anything. All a track saw does is make sure your cuts are straight. A straight cut in the wrong place is no better than a poor quality cut.
I do think that too many, as you eluded to, simply go out and buy things without knowing that there are other ways of achieving the same end results, often at a much cheaper price point.
It seems many get caught up in the nonsense of it all.
JMHO

[Tom Bussey]

I couldn't agree more. And you said it very well thank you.

[Ron Selzer]

Tom, I like how you straight line rip with your jig. I am too lazy to build one even though it probably would save me time and money. I have for over 40 years now used extension tables for my jointer starting out with a 4" jointer with 8' extensions on infeed and outfeed. Moved up to a 6" and made "new" 8' infeed outfeed tables out of bowling alley lane. Now have a 8" segmented head jointer with long beds, not certain what if anything I will do. Probably will make a set of infeed outfeed tables for it as I am way to used to it.
Seriously considering your straight line rip instead
Ron

[Jim Becker]

I sure can't convince you that you "need" one. There are advantages there if you're willing to or interested in doing some things differently. Based on your OP, I'll give you one example. You indicate that much of your current use for a circular saw is to break down sheet goods to more manageable panels, I assume for further processing. The key to my example is "for further processing." Consider if in the process of breaking down the big sheets into manageable sizes if breaking them down into finished sizes that don't require a lot of further processing could benefit the kind of work you enjoy doing. A good track saw can be as accurate in that respect as you personally can measure and mark the cut line. So here, it can mean saving steps which in turn saves time with less need to continually move the material around...which in turn reduces opportunity for damage.

Another example from my own work...there have been various times that I've found it necessary, either due to human error or just plain circumstance, that I've had to trim, resize or do other modifications to assemblies that were already, um...assembled. A cabinet box that's fitted slight off, for example. I have a short track that lets me fix what needs fixed with the track saw, rather than slinging the thing up on a larger tool with an uncomfortable working position, etc. I can use a router with the track, too, if that's what's needed for the task. At one point, I took two inches off the height off a built and finished armoire that needed to move into a position that had a shorter ceiling and couldn't be stood up without getting a little shorter. That cut was done inside our home quickly, accurately and with little debris. So in that role, it was also a problem solver.

Only you can convince you that you want or need a particular tool.

But yea...it's just a tool. Not everyone wants or needs it because they like other tools or methods. However, However, it's a tool that I respect enough that I've pretty much committed to using it a lot more for the immediate future in my "temporary shop" until I can get a building built and have a sliding table saw back in my bag. The track saw, the bandsaw and the miter saw (which hasn't been a part of my general woodworking for along time) are going to get most of the load and I'm confident that what I do with the track saw will be as accurate as the user allows it to be. Of course, I'll be even happier when I have a slider to use again, too. :)

[Rick Potter]

Nah, you don't need one. You only NEED a new tool when your expertise exceeds the quality of work your tools produce.

I suggest taking a bit of time to see how good your results can be using necessary tools like a table saw, band saw, jointer, etc. Build jigs to help you build the projects, and practice your ingenuity for a while. THEN decide if you need any of the more esoteric tools you see on videos and magazines.

I used to know a guy who knew nothing about woodworking, who went out and bought a shop full of Felder tools. Beautiful shop, but he wasn't very well versed on what they could do. He lost interest after a few years and moved on to other hobbies.

My dad did some very nice stuff, like mantles and bookcases, with a ShopSmith. Nothing fancy, but well done. He was very happy figuring out how to do special projects, and having them come out nicely.

On the other hand WANTING something is another story. No answer for that one. I could say though that I have found that 'Anticipation always exceeds Realization', in most cases.

[Curt Putnam]

Tom, if you want to spend money for superior tools then look at the tools made by Chris Vesper who is, like you, a machinist par excellence.

Track saws make a class of operations easier. They are not a replacement for neither circular saws nor table saws.

[Mike Wilkins]

Sometimes it is easier to take the tool to the work: wrestle a sheet of ply, MDF or Melamine onto a table saw and you see what I mean. I have 2 table saws in my shop and I still use the track saw, especially for ripping a full sheet.
Small shops are especially suited for a track saw.

[Robert Engel]

Sometimes it is easier to take the tool to the work: wrestle a sheet of ply, MDF or Melamine onto a table saw and you see what I mean. I have 2 table saws in my shop and I still use the track saw, especially for ripping a full sheet.
Small shops are especially suited for a track saw.

+1

Aside from sparing my back, I like the dust collection, more accurate cuts, and the ability to straight line rip on a bowed board, and the occasional straightening, trimming or the odd long taper.

That said, I do view it as a luxury, but I can't really justify a floor mortiser or second bandsaw either.

[Jack Frederick]

In my place back east I had severe space constraints and the TS helped me a great deal. In my larger space now I still use the TS on sheet goods when I have them. As a straight hobbyist that is not really that often and until prices soften that will continue. When I was cutting Hardi-panel sheets with my old circ saw the guides helped a great deal too. The TS paid for itself in just the accuracy of the cuts in the new floor. That had to be right and clean and the 55 did an excellent job. I picked this thing up year ago and almost at the beginning of woodworking, so it became a go-to tool for me. Tom, I enjoy reading your posts as they are always educational and I need all of that I can get. Thanks!

[Edward Weber]

I find this thread much less contentious and much more informative than the other one going on. Thanks for starting it Tom
It's always a risk when asking for or providing tool recommendations (which I rarely do) too many people take it as some sort of personal attack that you don't agree with them 100%.
Everyone has a different opinion (and background skill/experience) when it comes to tools and some it seems, have a bit of an unhealthy attachment to some of there tools. I've seen people get less upset when someone stole there girlfriend than some of these guys do when you disagree about tools.
I also see that Festool has an electronic anti-kickback feature on there newest tracksaw.

[Randy Heinemann]

I use my track saw for almost all crosscuts and have found my crosscuts to be the squarest, most accurate I've made since I started woodworking over 40 years ago. I don't need the track saw, but the Festool TS5 in combination with the Festool MFT3 table allows me to get essentially perfect 90 degree crosscuts. It gives me satisfaction and I have less assembly problems with the track saw/MFT table combination than at any other point since I started woodworking. Plus, there are other advantages for me given the way I now work. Buying a tracksaw just to break down sheet goods is probably not worth it. I rarely buy full sheets of plywood so my main use of the track saw isn't for that purpose.

[Greg Quenneville]

Years ago I left woodworking to concentrate on my actual hobby, which was machine restoration. Sold my Felder combination, my hand plane collection etc. Maybe a year later I bought the TS55 and MFT for some pop-up projects, and it saw occasional use until we decided to build a new house largely by ourselves. Since then I have processed 50 sheets of ply and 115 of MDF, 3000 lb ft of western red cedar, lots of gyprock, pine and other materials. I couldn’t have even started this project without the track saw, and the router, and the vacuum, which is now supporting the Kapex and the paint prep sanding (yuck).

I have a really pathetic table saw with an aluminium top (but an oddly accurate and stiff rip fence) It lives outside. It does rips only as the Festool system does the bulk of my machining on this massive project. So thinking about it, my reply isn’t just about the track saw but about the entire system. I used to think that it was just overpriced frou-frou. Now I couldn’t be without it.

Before I purchased another stationary machine I would buy a 3 metre track to avoid joiners etc. I do have a large torsion box bench with the MFT hole layout which, as already mentioned, gets you off the floor. It is also a massive horizontal router table when required. I often cut grooves all over it without care as I can do an annual session with a bit of bondo and a cabinet scraper to refresh it. Having the hole layout accessible for use with dogs is worth the maintenance effort.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Simple answer: You do not need a track saw. In an "emergency", you can always just clamp a straight edge to what you want to cut and run your circular saw along it.

Why I have a track saw:



They usually have better dust collection (significantly so) than a standard circular saw
The track generally marks where the cut will be (you can build your own, but it won't be as nice)
With a track it is easier to use with narrower things such as when I want to edge rough lumber and I need a straight edge (as opposed to lots of room with plywood that is wider).
Usually have a blade that produces a cleaner cut
Usually has "plunge" capability that can be useful.


There are more, but (1) and (2) above are the primary reasons.

[Jim Dwight]

I built a lot of things over about 4 decades without a track saw. But I am very happy I bought one about 10 years ago. I also convinced my church to get one for us "volunteers" that help out with maintenance. The church bought an evolution track saw and two 50 inch pieces of Wen track for about $250. I have a DeWalt with the three lengths of track they sell for it, I think they are 109, 59, and 40 inches long. I get a lot better cut quality with my DeWalt than I get with the Evolution but I think a lot of that is the blade. But I don't know if it is all the blade. For what we do there, it works fine but I do not know if it would work for me at home.

At home I make "nicer things" than I make volunteering at church. Furniture and cabinets. I made a 10 foot long dining room table earlier this year that has a 42 inch wide cherry top made of 6 boards. I joined my two longer tracks and used the track saw to make the glue ready edges of the boards. Resulting glue joints are good. I don't think I could done this with my other tools. Maybe if I could find a straight edge long enough with a router against it. But with the track saw it was simple.

As a break down tool, I don't know that it would be worth it to me either. The rib forces you to follow the rail so you avoid the mis-cuts that are possible with a circular saw and straight edge but you've probably learned to minimize those issues. The real value is when you accept that there is no reason to recut things on the table saw. That meant for me that I needed to make some jigs to position my track right and consistently because my measuring and marking were sometimes an issue. But at this point, I do not wrestle big pieces of anything over my table saw. It is far easier to just use the track saw.

I still use a little battery powered circular saw to break down log hardwood boards and do other relatively crude cuts. No sense dulling the track saw blade with that sort of work.

Dust collection is very much a secondary consideration for me but if you work in finished spaces it can be important.

You would find yourself using it for other things if you had one. I have thrown an old blade on mine and cut sheet rock with it, for instance. Very easy and accurate. In that case the dust collection was important, however.

I don't think you need it if you are happy with your other methods. But I think you would find a lot of uses for it if you had one. I need to use an inexpensive one like the Evolution or Wen more to be confident they can be trusted with finish cuts like rips for glueup. With the right blade I think they can be I don't have direct experience. But a saw on the order of the DeWalt or Makita definitely can.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I love my track saw, Festool TS55, bought it about 12-15 years ago, replaced the blade once.

Toughest cut I've made with it, was to rip a 2"x 4" x 8' across diagonal corners, creating a very long wedge. Used one more 2" x 4" for track support.

I rip all my cabinet grade plywood down to about 1/4" oversize, if the piece will be manageable to final size on the table saw. If not, I'll cut to actual required size with the track saw.

It gets used for cuts where it is the best tool, in my limited tool inventory, for the necessary operation.

When the saw quits, I will repair off replace it

[Larry Edgerton]

I bought one because I am getting freak'in old, and many times it is easier to take the saw to the work than the work to the saw.

I have no shortage of tools that can do the same job, but I am coming up short on muscle. The track saw cures that. For example my downsized shop is small and its hard to muscle a sheet to the slider without banging in to something so I buy a lift of maple and cut it in half length ways in the storage barn and now the sheets are half as big and half as heavy. I have used it other ways since, and although I would not say it is mandatory for me I consider it money well spent. I made a base for my 16" Makita skill saw so I can use that with the Festool track, that has been handy as well.

Adapt or die I guess.

[Warren Wilson]

I doubt anyone “needs” a track saw. I have one and enjoy using it because it is a good tool and I like using good tools. Breaking down sheet goods is where I find it most useful but before I had the track saw I used a shop-built jig that was OK. I also like it for cutting long tapers, but can manage those without a track saw, too.

I have one. I use it. I like it. But only my wife understands I “need” it the same way I apparently “need” so many other odd things.

[Edwin Santos]

I bought one because I am getting freak'in old, and many times it is easier to take the saw to the work than the work to the saw.

I have no shortage of tools that can do the same job, but I am coming up short on muscle.

Adapt or die I guess.

My situation exactly. Humbling too since I can remember throwing sheets around like they were potato chips once upon a time.
More and more I'm taking tools to the work, at least to get it to manageable size if not finish cut. This is also why I went in for one of those Crazy Horse dollies, and now handling sheet goods is trivial. Almost totally eliminating dust has made things more pleasant too.
I recently got into veneering and find myself cutting up Baltic Birch for substrate quite often. After learning to do so the hard way, I am now building mock-ups of furniture I have designed, so cutting up MDF for that has become more common too.
But like others have said, there are almost no tools in woodworking that are absolutely, essentially the only way to perform an operation. So if you're determined enough, and don't place much value in the benefits, you can find other ways to do what a track saw does.
I thought mine was a bit of a luxury item, but now I find myself reaching for it all the time.

[Rick Potter]

Track saws are not just for large pieces. I had to cut small shelves for 5 different sized outside corner transitions on my kitchen cabinets. Each was different in size and had four shelves. Seven sides on each shelf. Smallest cut was about two inches long, the largest was about 13".

I made cardboard templates, and transferred the shape to the shelf boards with a pencil, then cut them all with a DeWalt track saw, using the 59" track. If you can draw a pencil line on it, you can cut it. A dab of double stick tape work piece to keep it from moving, and scraps to support the track works fine.

This was done before I made an 'L' fence for the table saw, which could have done the same thing.

[Tom Bussey]

Did anyone ever blow up my pictures and really look at what was there. I have a couple of tee squares so that I can position the aluminum straight edge so that the saw blade cuts the plywood in half ,half the kerf on one side half the kerf on the other side. But I wouldn't trust it to be exactly to size. Lets take making Kitchen cabinets. The size for the lower for me is 23 1/2 by 34 1/2 So if I cut 24 inches off from the end that leaves a piece that is 72 inches and then I rip it on half I have two pieces basically 24 x 72 that I can handle on my table saw. Age is not a cop out because I will be 76 in Oct. But I could just as easily cross cut it and make 2 pieces 24 X 36. The top cabinets are basically the same but lighter and easier to work with.

I have tried as best as I can to position the guide bar exactly where it need to be but to say I can get the exact size repeatedly is kind of far fetched. Granted I have a sliding table on my other saw, I have a picture on a different post and it is set up off from a 5 cut and it is off .002 in on a 24x24 piece of plywood. So forgive me if I have a hard time believing that one can get a 90 degree cut with a track saw.

In case someone is wondering why 23 1/2 wide. I put a 1/4 rabbet on the edge and cut a Dato 1/4 deep in the face frame and it end up at 24 inches.

I guess I am to used to working my way which came from experience. Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want. I guess I am not persuaded to buy one anymore than I persuaded you yo get rid of the track saws. Actually I have looked at them in the store and think they are kind of neat. I wish they would have been around in my early days of braking down plywood on my hands and knees.

[Mike Kees]

Hey Tom I did look at your photos. You have some great jigs that obviously work well for the applications you need them to do. Is the sled on your straight edge jig attached to the rail ? If it is you essentially have a "tracksaw". I am not going to try to convince you of anything ,you obviously know what you want to use and have ways figured out to accomplish things. As I stated earlier in the other thread a track saw is a very important tool for me in the type of work I do. I think the biggest attribute is the level of precision that can be achieved with a tool that you" take to the work " . I can not transport my sliding table saw to job sites ,but the track saw makes it there easily. Not all work is portable , the counter job I mentioned in the other post was in the middle of an 80' long counter with a laminate color that was discontinued. If I mainly worked only in my shop it would get used much less. I have however found it very useful braking down plastic laminate for counter tops . I can do this myself on the floor over foam versus needing someone to help me on my slider. One of the great things about woodworking is there are usually about 5-6 different ways of accomplishing any given task ,and as such one can do it with whatever method they have the tools to do it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Tom, you can do the same thing with a track saw if you buy or make a reference system for it.

[Jim Dwight]

Tom,

If I was to make another set of kitchen cabinets, which appears unlikely, I would definitely cut all the boxes out with my track saw. To do crosscuts, I have a jig that puts my shortest track across my 3x7 foot outfeed/assembly/track saw cutting table. I have a clamp on fence for the table that I can true as necessary and a movable stop for the fence. I don't use it every day because it takes a bit to set up but if I was cutting up the wood more multiple cabinets I would set it up. Every day cross cuts I use a 18 inch plywood square to draw a line, slap a track on the line and cut. Festool's MFT is another way (but pricey from my perspective like all things festool). It is a smaller version (and nicer version) of my table setup.

Tracksaws depend on jigs to get the most from them. My most used jig is what I call my track positioning jig. It has a dado to go over the guide rib of the track and a movable stop with a hairline pointer on the measuring scale. I can set the stop and reliably position the cut without no measuring or marking. And I can do the same cut as many times as I want to. I have parallel guides and some people prefer them for repeat cuts but I prefer my simpler positioning jig.

I don't think track saws are unique in any way in needing jigs to do things, I just think they haven't been around as long as I have so I was more familar with the jigs for other tools than I used to be for track saws. Probably still am.

But track saws are an excellent way to make 90 degree or any other cut. If you can measure it the track saw can cut it. It cuts exactly where you set it to cut, every time.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Maybe if I had a lot of money tied up in my table saw, I'd consider a track saw unnecessary.
As it is, having and using a decent quality (Makita cordless) track saw allows me the luxury of getting by with my Ridgid TS3660 contractor saw.

[Edward Weber]

Maybe someone could compile some type of list of the types of operations, other than breaking down sheet goods, that they use their track saws for. Not everyone knows how they can be used if their area of work doesn't expose them to certain tasks.
Just a thought

[Brian Holcombe]

I had to trim close to finished ply on an install so I took the track with holes, screwed it to the wall and ran my tracksaw along the ply. Made a nice cut. Not sure how else one would do such a nutty thing, but this way was accurate and effective

[ChrisA Edwards]

Maybe someone could compile some type of list of the types of operations, other than breaking down sheet goods, that they use their track saws for. Not everyone knows how they can be used if their area of work doesn't expose them to certain tasks.
Just a thought

Just used mine this morning. Making three end tables, two 32" x 32" and one 32" x 18". So I have White Oak glued up about 35" square for the two large ones and about 35" x 20" for the smaller one.

Although I could cut the parallel edges on the 32"x32" on my table saw, I can't cut the 90 degree first cut, using my crosscut sled or miter gauge. So I go to my MFT style table, a piece of MDF with dog holes.

I have stops, in the bench dog holes, that allow me to cut a perfect 90 degree with the track saw, and actually did all four sides, rotating the piece 90 degrees after each cut.

Yes, I could have done this with a straight edge and a circular saw, but not have to set the straight edge at an offset, allowing for the base edge to blade distance, getting a clean ZCI cut and just aligning a small pencil mark for the actual cut, plus having the saw run on a track, I'll stick with my track saw for ease.


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[Rich Engelhardt]

Maybe someone could compile some type of list of the types of operations, other than breaking down sheet goods, that they use their track saws for. Not everyone knows how they can be used if their area of work doesn't expose them to certain tasks.
Just a thoughtTrack saws (and cordless routers I might add) are showing up more and more on Youtube videos I being used for a whole lot of cuts that were once only done on a table saw.
One of the underused features of a plunge track saw is it's ability to just kiss the surface under the piece of wood being cut. The better ones have extremely accurate depth of cut control.

I got rid of the expense of having to drive my van all the time when I got my cordless Makita track saw. Now when I pick up sheet goods, I cut them down to finished size right in the parking lot. That allows me to carry up to three 4X8 sheets - all cut down to final finished size for transport in my Hyundai Kona (subcompact SUV). This savings was huge. Instead of having to buy a nearly $40k van, I can get by real well with a $26k AWD that gets over 35MPG.
When I scaled down the house renovations we were doing and got out of having a van, I debated long and hard over keeping a van for picking up sheet goods or getting rid of it.
I know this is a non-issue for a lot of people, but, it was a factor in my decision.

Menards has a small 4" track saw (corded) that I'd like to take a look at. Presently I use a 3 3/8" Makita 12V saw & a shop made guide for some things I run into. Most recently, I had to install a large pantry in the eating area of a kitchen. There is old wood paneling. I scribed a line on the paneling, moved the pantry out & used my Makita to cut the paneling on the wall. I was wishing someone made a track version of that saw & later read an ad for Menards that listed a 4 1/2" track saw.

In another thread here, I mentioned I had to cut the top, bottom and two shelves to make a six sided diagonal corner cabinet. I looked up the dimensions on the internet, made a cardboard layout to use as a template, then simply transferred the lines to plywood. Making all the cuts was as simple as just moving the track and making the cuts. Doing the shelves required no math beyond just redrawing the layout lines 1/4" on the inside of the existing lines.
The cabinet went together perfect, it fit right into it's spot & was dead even on both sides with the other cabinets & the shelves fit perfectly.
I had dreaded that cabinet from the beginning of the job, but, it ended up being very easy to do.
BTW - on that I should mention that I cut both top & bottom at the same time by laying one piece of plywood on top of the other.

I had to remove a damaged hardwood floor from a dining room. In order to do that, I had to make a 9 1/2' cut between the hallway and the dining room. I joined the two 55" tracks I had, laid the track flat on the floor and positioned it up to the wall at the back of the track. I stuck the anti kickback thing in the track of the Festool, plunged it down and made about a 6 foot cut. I backed the saw up a couple feet, moved the track, then plunged the saw back down with the power off so I could position it as close to where I had already cut as possible. Since I was in the line between the floor boards, it wasn't hard at all to get a perfect cut. & as I mentioned above, depth control on the better track saws is amazing - so there was no cut in the subfloor at all.

I straight line rip one edge with the track saw. It's just simply easier to do it that way instead of using a sled. I also use a sled though if the situation calls for it.

I mentioned once here that I was going to post "If you had a track saw, we wouldn't be having this discussion" in response to someone asking here - "How do I make this cut"?

Track saws aren't a substitute for anything - - I still resort to using a shop made guide for things like cutting counter tops that have an integral backsplash. I've done those with a track saw, but, it's too "iffy". I also use a shop made guide when I'm cutting things like cement or fiber board that are nasty/abrasive.

Speaking of counter tops - - I found nothing beats a track saw for making a sink cutout. It requires taking the dust cover off my Makita - but - a DeWalt can do it without having to remove the dust cover.

Can this all be done without a track saw? Maybe - I know I won't be the one doing it without one.
To me, a track saw is simply another power tool.

[Edward Weber]

Well I really want to thank those of you who actually took the time to explain all of your tracksaw tasks. I'm still not sure if there is a need for one in my work as of now but I have a better idea of some of the capabilities.

[Jim Becker]

Maybe someone could compile some type of list of the types of operations, other than breaking down sheet goods, that they use their track saws for. Not everyone knows how they can be used if their area of work doesn't expose them to certain tasks.
Just a thought
I mentioned some already earlier in the thread...

[Jim Dwight]

I've mentioned cutting boards edge for glueup for my 10 foot dining room table. I did the same thing for a cabinet in my great room a little less than 8 feet long. More recently I trimmed a gate I scribed to the opening. Simple matter of laying the track on the scribe line and cutting. I've used mine several times to cut doors to fit openings. I used mine at church to cut down pews. We had 16 foot ones that were not going to be used any more and some of the pastors wanted short ones for their homes. So we made them. Very difficult to cut down 16 foot pew backs and bottoms with other tools. With a circular saw and a really good blade and guide it could be done but it was simple with the track saw.

I made a little storage cabinet for the church about 5 feet tall and six feet long. It was sized by the scrap I had to use. I cut the subfloor plywood back with the church's track saw. There were circular saws I could have used but the track saw was much quicker.

When I cut the stringers for a new staircase in my house I started with a circular saw. But I switched to my track saw because my cuts were straighter with it so the treads would lay more flat.

I have a dresser in my house that is made mostly of softwood with 1/2 inch plywood drawers. It's 22 inches wide. All the pieces for the case were cut to final size with my track saw. They were too big to be easily cut on my table saw. All the plywood for the drawers was ripped to width with the track saw. When I made my dresser earlier this year, I ripped the glue edges for the top (cherry) with my track saw. The secondary wood in the drawers is cypress. It was ripped to width with my track saw when I needed to get a straight edge on it. But once it had a straight edge I used my table saw.

A track saw can do nearly anything you'd do with a circular saw but the depth of cut is typically less (about 2 inches). I use mine when I want a really accurate clean cut.

[Tom Bussey]

I was at Menards yesterday and I looked at their track saw for $199. I played with it for a while. And I have my doubts about how accurate it would be. given the fence would need to be assembled 4 times to get 110 inches. I do know that there are better quality ones out there that would be more accurate. If one really looks at my pictures blown up you will find that the white plastic rides in a groove. And I realized I am doing the same thing with 20 year old technology.

Chris Edwards just posted some pictures of his specially purchased table so he could utilize his track saw more efficiently. I enjoyed the pictures by the way. I am sure that that table cost more than I want to know about but, I have an Excalibur sliding table picture in a different post, for 48 inch crosscuts and angle cuts. And I realize than we have both spent some money so we could deal with larger pieces and getting square results.

I have to go now but will continue this latter. You have changed my mind though.

[Jim Becker]

Tom, check out the Makita. It's a nice tool for the money...not bottom dollar...but nice and it uses essentially the same track as the Festool and Mafele which can be helpful for third party accessories. There are alternative sources for longer tracks, too. PowerTec on Amazon is one. I do have an 8' track in addition the typical 55" or so "default" track and grabbed a shorter Makia track from a 'Creeker awhile back for in-shop utility.

I'm glad you're considering the possibilities. The value of any tool is what kinds of things it can do and what kinds of problems it can solve for the individual user. And quite often, we will acquire something for a specific task or set of tasks and then discover other things that raise the bar.

[Edward Weber]

I have to say, many of you use the word accuracy, please tell me what you mean.
When I use a curricular saw and some type of guide my cut is exactly where I want it to be. I know I might have to do more fussing around than those with a ZC track saw but I have never worried about my cuts being accurate.
Also, many have commented on quality of the cut, what were you using in you circular saw before that this is such an improvement.
I use Diablo blades in my circ saws and the finish is very, very good.
https://www.diablotools.com/explore/saw-blades

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I have to say, many of you use the word accuracy, please tell me what you mean.
When I use a curricular saw and some type of guide my cut is exactly where I want it to be. I know I might have to do more fussing around than those with a ZC track saw but I have never worried about my cuts being accurate.
Also, many have commented on quality of the cut, what were you using in you circular saw before that this is such an improvement.
I use Diablo blades in my circ saws and the finish is very, very good.
https://www.diablotools.com/explore/saw-blades

Edward the track provides a very robust way to cut straight along the measured distance. It's the simplicity of laying the track exactly on the mark and cutting very straight while the track does all the work of maintaining the saw in line. You can achieve the same accuracy with a circular saw. But the ability to simply lay a track exactly on the cut line and quickly cut it is a feature of a track saw that really stands out. It isn't that the accuracy isn't achievable by a regular circular saw because it is. But it is much simpler and less error prone than using a circular saw. There's no argument that you can do the same things with a circular saw. It's really the same as most tools. You could use a hand saw and I've seen people make amazing cuts with a hand saw. I'm not that skilled and power saws (whether it's a skill saw, bandsaw, table saw, etc.) can make those cuts easier as will as not requiring as much skill from the user. I'd love to have incredible artistic skill that I can make straight lines or circles or whatever the need is. I'm not that person and will never acquire those skills without tools to make that happen. I think this is the progression that the track saw lends itself to. It's a tool that has features that improve certain cuts that are common in a woodshop or jobsite.

The quality of cut that you asked about is improved as well from the track creating an equivalent zero clearance cut on one side by supporting the wood fibers with the track and rubber strip essentially touching the teeth as they the blade rotates the teeth upward out of the cut. My saw is the cordless Makita and it came with a very nice blade that makes a very clean cut. The same blade could be used on my circular saw and get a very good cut. I don't have a zero clearance setup for my circular saw. I could make such a device. But that's the same as a lot of my tools. I could make them but typically buying an tool engineered and constructed with methods not available to my home shop yields a much better result. This is the thing with my track saw. The entire package that is my track saw provides features that result in a cut that I'm unable to achieve with my circular saw.

There's no requirement for buying a track saw. I didn't understand the advantages but was intrigued why so many seemed to advocate them. When I finally purchased one it was one of those realizations that there is a new tool that advances the art. I'm certain that a truly gifted and skilled woodworker can do way more with much less tools than I have. Being an engineer I also like tools and enjoy learning of the details. There's that part of it as well.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Chris Edwards just posted some pictures of his specially purchased table so he could utilize his track saw more efficiently. I enjoyed the pictures by the way. I am sure that that table cost more than I want to know about but,

Just a heads up, that table was sheet of MDF from Home Depot, followed by holes drilled with a Parf System Jig ($200). Yes the jig was a bit pricey upfront, but as that table gets abused and destroyed, I can make as many of these tables/work surface just for the cost of a new sheet of MDF and my time, which is feee according to my wife.

When not in use, I just stack this top away alongside my spare sheets of plywood.

[Edward Weber]

Thanks,
It seems when people say accuracy, what they really mean is easy, convenient or less hassle.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks,
It seems when people say accuracy, what they really mean is easy, convenient or less hassle.

I think this is true when the term is used qualitatively. I couldn't resist discussing the technical aspects of accuracy and precision.

One other way to look at it is the technical definition of precision. Technically, being precise involves statistically having a small variation about the mean. Said another way it is doing something repeatedly and getting very close to the same results. The track saw does improve the precision in the sense that it reduces the occurrence of drift from the cut line and such. In this way it does improve the precision.

It also improves the overall accuracy once again by providing a less error prone way to get a cut at the distance desired (true value would be the technical term).

While you can achieve both the accuracy and precision from a circular saw the track saw excels at reducing the errors associated with each such that statistically the deviation from the true value along with the spread are reduced.

[Jim Dwight]

Getting the offset from the blade to the edge of the base of a circular saw was not an easy thing for me to do real accurately. I used a "shoot board" of plywood cut by the blade at first use but the edge would get worn, presumably by the blade wobbling a bit or something. So it became less precise over time. If you can get the offset right and if the edge of the base and the blade are parallel, and if you use a really good blade, and if you do not wander away from the straight edge, you can cut accurately with a circular saw. But the iffs are not applicable to a track saw.

At home I use an over 8 foot track to cut sheet goods so I do not have to join tracks. At church we only have 2 50 inch tracks so I have to join them. It works fine as long as I take a straight edge and align the two pieces prior to tightening the grub screws. The Evolution saw came with 4 really short, nearly useless pieces of track. The Wen tracks we use at church are OK but I suspect the PowerTec are better. I have not seen over 8 foot tracks from PowerTec or Wen or another less expensive brand. The long tracks can be more expensive than the cheaper saws. But joining tracks is a viable option (but not 4 pieces a foot long).

If I was starting over I think I would buy a Makita saw and a couple pieces of PowerTec track to start. I also like my little 40 inch track too, however, but you could cut a longer one down if you can't find one. DeWalt is fine but can only use one bar to join tracks. The Festool style tracks can use two. One will work but two is better IMHO. Makita and DeWalt both use a slightly larger blade for a little deeper depth of cut and have bigger motors than the Festool. For less money.

My holey table is also home made. I used a special router base, pegboard, and a plunge router with 20mm bit to make it. Because of the pegboard it is not terribly accurate but It works fine. But the holes not being perfectly laid out is why I have to true the fence.

[Jim Becker]

Edward, I will add that accuracy and quality of cut go hand-in-hand here. I mentioned it earlier and Eric also brought it up, but a "yuge" benefit of the saw being literally captured by the track, as opposed to just using a straight edge, is that the saw cannot move laterally as you move it through the cut with your hand. Even if you have the "steadiest" hands on the planet, it's hard to maintain that smooth, straight path manually, especially if you're "bending funny" to reach with your hand on the tool, etc. That smoothness of action as you slide the saw along means you maintain things perfectly perpendicular to the surface and have no wavering of path which pretty much eliminates any scoring of the edge of the cut with the teeth on the saw. It's a "little" thing, but something that makes it far easier to obtain "finished" cuts rather than move to another tool with more opportunity for Mr Murphy to smile upon you.

[Edwin Santos]

Edward, I will add that accuracy and quality of cut go hand-in-hand here. I mentioned it earlier and Eric also brought it up, but a "yuge" benefit of the saw being literally captured by the track, as opposed to just using a straight edge, is that the saw cannot move laterally as you move it through the cut with your hand. Even if you have the "steadiest" hands on the planet, it's hard to maintain that smooth, straight path manually, especially if you're "bending funny" to reach with your hand on the tool, etc. That smoothness of action as you slide the saw along means you maintain things perfectly perpendicular to the surface and have no wavering of path which pretty much eliminates any scoring of the edge of the cut with the teeth on the saw. It's a "little" thing, but something that makes it far easier to obtain "finished" cuts rather than move to another tool with more opportunity for Mr Murphy to smile upon you.

If I may add on to Jim's comment, the aluminum track from a track saw is precisely straight. A shop made circular saw guide will only be as straight as the saw that cut the guide.
Some people have very well tuned saws and fences, but if we're talking about accuracy, I'd be surprised if a shop made guide made on even a well tuned saw will be as perfectly straight as the aluminum extrusion track.

Whether that difference in accuracy is meaningful in woodworking is a whole other debate. But the question on the table was a request for an example of why the track saw accuracy would be superior.

[Edward Weber]

I understand how and why a track and carriage operate. I simply had a question about the choice of words many use when describing these tools
I was trying to figure out if everyone was talking about the same thing when using the word accurate and it seems we were not.
Many of you say "more accurate" or "better cut".
If I don't have an issue with making a straight quality cut, then I ask, what else can it do.
The title of the thread is Convince me I need a Track Saw after all.
This is why I suggested making a list of tasks a track saw excels at above other tools.
Maybe something like making perfectly straight cuts easier would be a better description than accurate.
JMHO

[Jim Becker]

Edward, many of us already put quite a few scenarios where the track saw is a great problem solver in our individual posts. Tom, the OP. appears to have found benefit from those comments based on his most recent post.

[Brian Holcombe]

Incentivize us to further convince you, let’s see a commission schedule first :D

Frankly, I’d have no trouble living without a track saw at this point but they're quick and handy. The accuracy and precision are both debatable but they do cut a straight line. I’d rather rip on the bandsaw and then edge joint. I have a wood master ct 1.3 tooth so most wood can be ripped as fast as i can feed it and I’m going to joint it anyways so quality of the cut is not super important.

[Warren Wilson]

I don’t think it’s my responsibility to convince anyone to buy a track saw. (I might show mine off to a friend, but that’s a different thing entirely).

On the topic of what do you use them for, one thing I use mine for all the time is flush cutting the end grain when I have glued solid wood to plywood like edge banding. I do it to have a nice glue line for the next layer of edge banding. It is particularly nice when I have a diagonal to cut.

Here’s a little folding table I made for our travel trailer after my wife saw someone else had one.

460959

[David Sloan]

The points have all been made by many folks but for me one of the biggest benefits is the excellent dust collection. I love my Festool track saw and I resisted buying a track saw for years. I became so fed up with the clouds of dust associated with my Kreg Accu rip and Accu cut. And that’s a system that works quite well but a true track saw is so much better. A track saw is a luxury for a hobbyist but as I get older I appreciate so much more the luxury of nice tools. Life is short and if you can afford it, buy a tool you can admire and appreciate even if you could manage without it!

[Gustav Gabor]

If I may add on to Jim's comment, the aluminum track from a track saw is precisely straight. A shop made circular saw guide will only be as straight as the saw that cut the guide.
Some people have very well tuned saws and fences, but if we're talking about accuracy, I'd be surprised if a shop made guide made on even a well tuned saw will be as perfectly straight as the aluminum extrusion track.

Whether that difference in accuracy is meaningful in woodworking is a whole other debate. But the question on the table was a request for an example of why the track saw accuracy would be superior.

I guess it depends on the level of accuracy (straightness) one is trying to achieve with a track saw and the associated guide rails.
So far, I have not found one yet that was "precisely straight".
Recently, I tested various lengths of guide rails. 2 Makita 118", 2 Makita 75", 3 Festool 1.4m, 2 festool 1.9m, and 2 Festool 3m guide rails.

These were tested with a Starrett 385 -72 straight edge that has been calibrated to be within .00063" over the entire 72" length.

Surprisingly, one of the 1.9M Festool rails I measured was out of straight a bit over .048"!
That's nearly 1/16", which by any standards, is simply not straight. ... cheap 6' box levels have better tolerances than that!

The 118" ones from Makita were straight-ish for just over half their length, but started to curve during the last 4', culminating in about a .042" - ..044" discrepancy.
The Festool 3000mm were better, out only about .024" - .025"

One of the Makita 75" rails was surprisingly quite straight! ... Out only about .004" over it's entire length.
Sadly, the other one was out more than triple that amount.

I was really hoping to find a "straight" 3m Festool rail, but as I already own a Festool 1.9M, I ended up buying a 1.4M Festool rail that was within .002" of being straight.
Combining the two rails isn't exactly ideal for accuracy, but ended up better than anything I could find in a single length.

Also, accuracy is in the eye of the beholder and the job at hand. How straight do YOU need it to be?..... Some are perfectly fine with something that's out 1/32", and others are looking for machinist level tolerances in the range of +/- .0002".
The track saw rails I tested definitely do not fall in the latter category, nor should they.

Your results may vary, but do check those rails if a REALLY straight cut is needed or desired. They're not necessarily "precisely straight".

[Edwin Santos]

I guess it depends on the level of accuracy (straightness) one is trying to achieve with a track saw and the associated guide rails.
So far, I have not found one yet that was "precisely straight".
Recently, I tested various lengths of guide rails. 2 Makita 118", 2 Makita 75", 3 Festool 1.4m, 2 festool 1.9m, and 2 Festool 3m guide rails.

These were tested with a Starrett 385 -72 straight edge that has been calibrated to be within .00063" over the entire 72" length.

Surprisingly, one of the 1.9M Festool rails I measured was out of straight a bit over .048"!
That's nearly 1/16", which by any standards, is simply not straight. ... cheap 6' box levels have better tolerances than that!

The 118" ones from Makita were straight-ish for just over half their length, but started to curve during the last 4', culminating in about a .042" - ..044" discrepancy.
The Festool 3000mm were better, out only about .024" - .025"

One of the Makita 75" rails was surprisingly quite straight! ... Out only about .004" over it's entire length.
Sadly, the other one was out more than triple that amount.

I was really hoping to find a "straight" 3m Festool rail, but as I already own a Festool 1.9M, I ended up buying a 1.4M Festool rail that was within .002" of being straight.
Combining the two rails isn't exactly ideal for accuracy, but ended up better than anything I could find in a single length.

Also, accuracy is in the eye of the beholder and the job at hand. How straight do YOU need it to be?..... Some are perfectly fine with something that's out 1/32", and others are looking for machinist level tolerances in the range of +/- .0002".
The track saw rails I tested definitely do not fall in the latter category, nor should they.

Your results may vary, but do check those rails if a REALLY straight cut is needed or desired. They're not necessarily "precisely straight".

Thank you for straightening me out on this.
Apparently my opinion was off track.

[Edward Weber]

Edward, many of us already put quite a few scenarios where the track saw is a great problem solver in our individual posts. Tom, the OP. appears to have found benefit from those comments based on his most recent post.



I have gained insight from all the information given here as well but searching through a thread or two reading every post is not the same as a list. A central collection of all the benefits. A sticky maybe, What do you cut with your track saw?

[David Buchhauser]

I have gained insight from all the information given here as well but searching through a thread or two reading every post is not the same as a list. A central collection of all the benefits. A sticky maybe, What do you cut with your track saw?


Edward - why don't you go ahead and start a new thread titled: "What do you cut with your track saw?"

David

[Phillip Mitchell]

Thank you for straightening me out on this.
Apparently my opinion was off track.

:D Well done.

[Edward Weber]

Edward - why don't you go ahead and start a new thread titled: "What do you cut with your track saw?"

David


I suppose I can, I just thought it was something a moderator would want to do for the other members.

[Jim Becker]

I suppose I can, I just thought it was something a moderator would want to do for the other members.

It's a nice idea, but we moderators are few, volunteers and have limited time, so a community member creating a worthy resource is the most expedient way to make this happen. I suggest that the ask for the thread be something like "list what you use your Track Saw for including unique problem solving" and ask that the "merits" be left for other threads.

[Jonathan Jung]

After almost 4 years with a track saw, I've used my circular saw maybe 10 times. I build cabinetry and furniture for a living. The safety, dust collection, and speed of a track saw is worth it.