Difference between Track saws and Circular Saws??

[Clarence Martinn]

What is the difference between these Saws ??

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I had this same lack of understanding before eventually purchasing my track saw. A track saw has a lot of similarities to and really is synonymous with a circular saw or “skill saw” as I’ve always referred to it.
The differences come from the housing of the saw is made specifically to work with a track. Half of the magic is the track and the other is the housing of the saw. The saw itself is really the same as any circular saw which is a motor with an arbor that spins a saw blade. The track saw’s ability to plunge is a very nice feature in the operation as well as adding the ability to do something typical circular saws can’t. The track appears simple but has a lot of very nice features. The ability to just lay the track on the wood and it not slip while making the cut was surprising to me. They contain a rubber strip which also appears simple but provides a “zero clearance” support for the wood fibers to prevent tear out and make a very smooth cut. The saw rides along the track and doesn’t deviate from the track’s straight line. No matter how straight my straight edges are I always end up with less than perfectly straight cuts with a straight edge and skill saw.
There are a lot of design features in a track saw that make it able to substantially outperform a standard circular saw. The downside of it is the track saws usually don’t maximize the depth of cut possible with the same size circular saw. For rough construction I still pull out my skill saw. But for woodworking cutting large panels, straightening boards or other typical shop tasks I use my track saw.
I couldn’t understand the cost or why everyone was using one until I bought one and the first plywood I cut with it I was completely thrilled! I even made a little jig to cut flooring that I put in our upstairs. It was so much better than my giant 12” slider miter saw. Dust collection was amazing only leaving a very small amount of sawdust from the entire floor cutting process. It’s really quite a step up from a circular saw for the things it is designed to do.

[Jim Becker]

A track saw generally "is" a circular saw. The tool itself is usually kinda nice any many can be used without the track for incidental cutting. When you add the track, the tool becomes much more of a precision instrument. It can't move laterally and the edge of the track is exactly on your cut line. While some folks are perfectly happy with using a straight edge of some sort to "guide" their circular saw, in that scenario, the operator has to account for the offset of the blade from the edge of the saw structure that rides along the straight edge to the cut line and they have to (try to) physically keep the saw tight to the straight edge with just their hands. The latter can be difficult in many situations because as we reach with our arms and hands, we don't necessarily keep things steady laterally. The tracksaw can't wander to the side...it can only move down the cut line and as noted the cut line is right at the edge of the track.

Eric mentions dust collection...most track saws do feature reasonably decent dust collection.

[andy bessette]

What is the difference between these Saws ??

The difference between the Festool track saw and all circular saws is night and day. And the Festool is well worth its seemingly extravagant price. Wish I had bought mine sooner.

[Jim Becker]

The difference between the Festool track saw and all circular saws is night and day. And the Festool is well worth its seemingly extravagant price. Wish I had bought mine sooner.
THe good news is that there are a few other really good tracksaw solutions now, too, in addition to Festool. (which I also own an dlove) Makita is worthy and slightly more affordable than Festool and Mafele is "north" of Festool. There are also some unique ones, like the Dewalt which has a track that goes both ways and the Kreg which has a left-blade saw, rather than the more common right-blade track saw tool.

[Tom Bussey]

Out side of general carpentry the only use I use a circular saw is to brake down sheet goods. to a manageable size. And price verses amount of time spent using it determines the cost value ratio. I broke down the two sheets of plywood in about 15 minutes, actual cutting time less than 1 minutes for both pieces. only two 8 foot rips. And my question is how many sheets of plywood do you actually brake down in a year for your hobby?

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The rest is sized on a table saw. I have an add on when I need help loading wood into the saw for safety sake. This just happen to be a straight line rip pictured.

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I am sorry but I 460503 just can't find any reason to spend the money on Festool products. If you say dust collection , I have a broom.
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[andy bessette]

...the only use I use a circular saw is to brake down sheet goods. to a manageable size. And price verses amount of time spent using it determines the cost value ratio. I broke down the two sheets of plywood in about 15 minutes, actual cutting time less than 1 minutes for both pieces. only two 8 foot rips. And my question is how many sheets of plywood do you actually brake down in a year for your hobby?...

If your hobby only requires one rough rip in a sheet of cheap plywood every once in awhile, so you can man-handle the 1/2-sheet in your table saw, you can certainly do that with a circular saw. However if your work requires cutting to size, particularly odd-shaped pieces of expensive veneered plywood, splinter-free and ready for glue-up, then a good track saw is what you want. Also for quickly straightening the edge of long rough-cut lumber. And cutting precise holes in cabinet faces for door and drawer openings. And trimming doors to size. And making long scarph joints. And .... well, if you've never used one you won't know what you're missing.

[Edward Weber]

I'm in the same camp as Tom Bussey.
I've used a circular saws for years, some good some bad. We used to draw a pencil line and follow it free hand, if it had to be "perfect" we used a plywood guide.
About 16 years ago I bought a 52" clamp guide which has the ability to mount a UHMW sled to it in a channel that you could use for a router or circular saw. This was basically the earliest version of a track saw. I have never used the sled because it was too much of a hassle for occasional use but I use the edge guide for breaking down sheet goods to a more manageable size. Unfortunately I don't have enough room around my table saw to handle full sheets. As far as buying a dedicated track saw, even one as nice as the Festool is claimed to be, it's out of the question.
With some of these units you need to purchase the proprietary accessories like special plunge blades, guide rails, clamps and so on. The price keeps climbing on a task I can do easily for much less cost.
If you have a real need to break down sheet goods often they might be the right tool for you, although they are starting to rival the price of panel saws.
For myself, I don't use sheet goods all that often, so the price simply not warranted.

[Rich Engelhardt]

A few years back I had to make a diagonal6 sided corner cabinet like this one:
https://www.discountkitchendirect.com/shop/dcw2430-wall-diagonal-corner-cabinet-24-x-30-tahoe-dove/?network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=2083657378&adgroup=pla-295943256190&gclid=CjwKCAjwuIWHBhBDEiwACXQYsSdjy9Zke-pioZuPSuy3v6aBFgZh2iqWsIzIn2GD4q9HmmLdWSdkWhoCO-cQAvD_BwE

All I had to do was make a template out of 1/4" underlayment, then use that to lay out the cuts for the top, bottom and two shelves.
Making those pieces on the table saw would have had me tearing my hair out.
With the track saw, all I had to do was use the template to draw the lines, then reduce the size of the shelf lines by 1/8" so they would fit inside & lay on the shelf pins.

It was mindlessly easy to make that cabinet.

Both my Makita cordless and the Festool corded I had, leave nice clean tear out free edges on everything - much better than the edges left by a table saw - unless a very tight fitting ZCI is used.

Track saws are a real game changer & they do so much more than just "break down sheet goods".
Granted, Festool will probably always be expensive - but - so will a Porsche.


With some of these units you need to purchase the proprietary accessories like special plunge blades, guide rails, clamps and so on. The price keeps climbing on a task I can do easily for much less cost.
If you have a real need to break down sheet goods often they might be the right tool for you, although they are starting to rival the price of panel saws.
For myself, I don't use sheet goods all that often, so the price simply not warranted.Now that Festool no longer has a lock on the track saw market, there is a whole lot more interchangeability among the different saws.
Prices have also plummeted.
Menards has a small track saw for about $89. The Wen with 100" of track is under $200.

[Edward Weber]

From my point of view, much of it come down to method of work. How you learned of how you were taught to do certain tasks.
The cabinet you linked to would be no problem for me at the tablesaw but that's my "go-to" tool for such things. I would never think, "I need to get out my track saw for this job". It's all individual preference, what you're comfortable with.
I think of tracksaws as jobsite tools, which is my shortcoming. All the different tasks mentioned by others are jobs I would use different tools for or approach in a different way. I'll have to think about them differently the next time I have a challenging cut to make.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I think of tracksaws as jobsite tools, which is my shortcoming. LOL! Funny you should mention that!
The diagonal cabinet - well, the entire kitchen itself really, was built on-site. :)

[Julie Moriarty]

A track saw can be used with or without the track. And it's ability to plunge makes it much safer for starting cuts internally. But most track saws have a ~6" blade whereas circular saw blades are typically larger.

[Mike Kees]

To me a track saw is my "go to" jobsite tool for "money" cuts. There is no other substitute for a cut that has to be perfect and you only have one shot at it. A job last year I cut through a counter top where we had to re-use the cut piece at a lower level to provide access for wheel chair users. This was a job at the City Hall in Lethbridge that had to be completed in one weekend. A track saw was the only tool that could have completed those cuts with the accuracy required. We also used the tracks with a router to cut grooves for the glass partitions, again the only tool for the job at hand. I have also used it to cut counter tops ,shelves and even rebuild cabinet boxes and drawers on site. When you do installs 1000 kms. away from where the cabinet boxes are built you have to be able to make things work onsite ,My track saw is a big part of this. I have used Festool but bought a Makita ,no regrets .

[Tom Bussey]

One can make a plunge cut with a circular saw. As far as money cuts I thought this was a wood working forum for non professionals not a forum for contractors. Are we doing apples or oranges. Both are fruit but different properties. I use a sled because I buy from a sawmill that doesn't have a straight line rip. I keep my saw blade just off the sled so I can flip the sled over on some saw horses and use a router with a ball bearing bit and rout the edge. I can skip the jointer on wood that is to long to get a do a good job on a jointer. I usually rough saw my stock and let it stress relive itself for a few days. I will even touch the sacred cow by saying I don't wait for my wood to equalize when I bring it home. I cut it to rough size and then let it moisture equalize and stress relieve its self. Lets see you take a piece 2 14 wide and 6 foot long and get a straight edge after it has been in the free state for a few days. Easy with a sled and with a router I have a finished edge.

And I resent the fraise cheap plywood. If you want to talk about splinter free cuts in plywood, I get them on not only both sides of the plywood but on both sides of the cut offs also. Any angle is also not a problem and I come to think of it I don't have a compound miter saw either. I have an old DeWalt RAS.

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And not one cut was made with a track saw when I built these,

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[Jim Becker]

As far as money cuts I thought this was a wood working forum for non professionals not a forum for contractors.
Sorry, Tom...SMC has always had a good proportion of people who make their living or part of their living via woodworking and related activities. The point about the "money cut" is valid for anyone, not just folks who are "pros".

It's good we all have choices when it comes to tools and techniques. The OP was asking about the difference between a regular circular saw and a track saw, so built-in accuracy is one aspect of the latter than many of use really enjoy.

[Edward Weber]

The OP was asking about the difference between a regular circular saw and a track saw, so built-in accuracy is one aspect of the latter than many of use really enjoy.
Built in accuracy?
I'm not sure what you mean by that. Just because you have a track saw doesn't mean your cuts are always accurate. Your cuts may be straight but accurate is another thing entirely.
I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm just pointing out that there's more to making a proper cut than the tool you choose to use. A track saw makes a straight cut, regardless of much else, making it easier for most users by eliminating that basic skill. This frees the user up to focus on other aspects of the cutting. You still need to know how and where to make the cuts for your project to come out as planned, no matter what tool your using.
If I use a straight edge with my circular saw, I have an accurate, straight, splinter free cut. The same can be said for my table saw, it's just method of work.

[andy bessette]

Built in accuracy?...You still need to know how and where to make the cuts for your project to come out as planned...

Oh boy! Here we go. :)

[Tom M King]

I'm sure a commercial track saw is nice, but I've never needed one bad enough to pay for one, and I don't skimp when buying tools, if they will pay for themselves. I used one of these today, to halve a couple of sheets of MDF, so I could easily get them to the table saw by myself.

This was a 20 foot long, angled finish cut, started in the middle of the run with a plunge cut, using two mirror image saws that work in opposite directions on the same guide.

[Mark W Pugh]

Out side of general carpentry the only use I use a circular saw is to brake down sheet goods. to a manageable size. And price verses amount of time spent using it determines the cost value ratio. I broke down the two sheets of plywood in about 15 minutes, actual cutting time less than 1 minutes for both pieces. only two 8 foot rips. And my question is how many sheets of plywood do you actually brake down in a year for your hobby?

460499 460500 460501

The rest is sized on a table saw. I have an add on when I need help loading wood into the saw for safety sake. This just happen to be a straight line rip pictured.

460502 460503

I am sorry but I 460503 just can't find any reason to spend the money on Festool products. If you say dust collection , I have a broom.
460503

The extension on your table saw for laying sheet goods, did you make that, or buy that? I need one of those.

[Jim Becker]

Built in accuracy?
I'm not sure what you mean by that. Just because you have a track saw doesn't mean your cuts are always accurate. Your cuts may be straight but accurate is another thing entirely.
I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm just pointing out that there's more to making a proper cut than the tool you choose to use. A track saw makes a straight cut, regardless of much else, making it easier for most users by eliminating that basic skill. This frees the user up to focus on other aspects of the cutting. You still need to know how and where to make the cuts for your project to come out as planned, no matter what tool your using.
If I use a straight edge with my circular saw, I have an accurate, straight, splinter free cut. The same can be said for my table saw, it's just method of work.


Let me rephrase...accurate when used properly as designed. The human element is always a factor with any tool. The track, however, helps quell some of the variables, including inadvertent lateral movement of the tool and the edge of the track helps tame tearout risk over and above using a quality blade. Etc. There's nothing wrong or bad about doing things they way you indicate you operate. The same is true for folks who enjoy using a track saw to best advantage. There's no competition here... ;)

[Phillip Mitchell]

You guys that are hollering about the excess that is a track saw and have never used one are missing the boat. I have worked as a professional carpenter, timber framer, woodworker, furniture maker, etc for many years and have free handed or used homemade sleds with circular saws for so many types of finish cuts in so many odd situations, as I’m sure many others here have as well. I’m no stranger to this approach, but it is old-school and short sighted to discount a good track saw.

There is a degree of precision that you get from a good track saw and track without even having to think about it that is unmatched to any freehand circular saw. Then you factor in the efficiency of time savings when setting up the cut, and the extremely effective zero clearance/splinter free cuts (also on the bevel) and there really is no comparison.

Of course it’s fine to say you don’t want to spend the money on a track saw setup, especially if you don’t really have a recurring/professional/high need for it, but you don’t know what you’re missing if you haven’t had the chance to put a good one through the paces with some odd cuts or even straight lining plywood in order to establish a reference to squaring up a sheet and later cutting smaller on a (non sliding) table saw.

I own and use a Makita and have used both Festools.

[Tom Bussey]

Yes, Jim you are correct about the SMC.

And you are correct about good proportion of people who make their living or part of their living via woodworking and related activities., but the person who is asking what is the difference between a track saw and a circular saw it is probably not in that category. If he was, he wouldn't be asking that question on a wood working forum.

Again you are correct about the point about the "money cut" is valid for anyone, not just folks who are "pros". But go back and read Andy Bessette's post. I will skip the cheap plywood comment but every thing he wrote otherwise I do on a table saw routinely. So when it gets around to money cuts, a high dollar track saw it the only way to achieve it? And the comment, the Festool is well worth its seemingly extravagant price. That is purely opinion and He is more than welcome to that opinion. And I truly am happy that he is able to afford one and that he has one and I believe he sets great store in it.

And some of the other comments from others about how thy use there track saws are they any more valid than my saying that a track saw is not the only way to make all the cuts described.

I totally agree with Rick Englrlhart's first post except for the part ( much better than the edges left by a table saw - unless a very tight fitting ZCI is used.) because the quality of the blade need to come into focus on that one, and the material being cut.

I apologize because I did the same thing a lot of us do here on this post. The person asked the simple question what is the difference between a track saw and a circular saw. I read into it that he was a beginner. Mainly because if he was even somewhat experienced he wouldn't be asking the question. Again I apologize it I read into it that track saws are the only way to go and are necessity if you wish to advance with the hobby. And the underlaying theme that the more expensive it is the better it is.

AND all of that, including what I wrote is only true from a particular point of view. Please forgive me for getting on my soap box.

[mark mcfarlane]

FWIW, I like to see both the blade and the cut line on some cuts. The blade is visibly obscured inside the housing of my Festool track saw, so my 35 year old PC still gets occasional use.

For accurately breaking down sheet goods or putting a straight edge on a board the track saw is nice, but I pretty much use my 8.5' Minimax slider for those cuts nowadays. Once you get a full sheet onto the slider it's very easy to move around. My Festool traksaw is hidden away in a drawer and comes out maybe once a year.

[lowell holmes]

I have a straight 1x4 that I clamp to the piece and cut it with my four inch Porter Cable circular saw.
It works for me.

[Jim Dwight]

The one kitchen I made all the cabinets for was before I had even heard of a tracksaw. I used my circular saw for break down cuts and my table saw to make all the finish cuts. My late wife like the results so it was at least good enough. We also made money on that house when we moved so the next owners must have thought they were at least OK.

But I would not do that again. I will second the input that people that make a lot of sawdust and think they don't need a track saw have most likely never used one. With a big shop and good table saw setups and material handling setups, maybe. But for a little home shop like I have, man handling sheets through my table saw would be a nightmare compared to using my track saw to make finish cuts on all the larger pieces. I still use my table saw to cut all the smaller pieces. Even if you have a very nice slider and room in your shop it seems like you would want a track saw if you ever have to work away from the shop.

My track saw is a DeWalt and it works well enough that I have no desire to "upgrade". But if I was buying one it would probably be the Makita. I think Festools are typically a bit of a waste of money when there are other good brands at roughly half the cost. My only Festool power tool is a Domino XL (which I love but use CMT and Amana bits in and I make my own tenons). But I am sure the Festool track saw is better in some ways than my DeWalt, just not enough better for me to want to pay the price. I also use my DeWalt track with my PC 690 router to make dados in large pieces. Works great.

I volunteer one day a week at my church doing maintenance tasks. I mainly make sawdust - relatively crude cabinets making small pews out of large pews etc.. I convinced them to get a track saw and it is a low end evolution saw we use with Wen tracks. It is not a plunge cut saw and uses 7.25 inch normal circular saw blades - or track saw blades but we haven't done that. It is just wearing a 40 tooth blade I donated at the moment and the cut quality is about like it was on my Milwaukee circular saw. I think it will do better with a 60 tooth blade but I will be surprised if it gets up to the quality of my DeWalt. I would have bought a Wen plunge cut if it had been available at the time. I am not sure if the low end track saws make table saw quality cuts. The reviews I've seen say the Wen needs a new blade to do it. But that is not a big deal.

I consider my track saw to cut equally as well as my PCS table saw. Both cut quite well as long as I am using a clean sharp blade. When I built my 10 foot long dining room table, I prepared all the glue joints using only my track saw. The glue lines would not be visible except for the grain change in the boards. I don't think I could have done this any other way. Some of you have bigger jointers and better technique with them and could have gone that way. Maybe some could do it with a circular saw and guide and really good blade. Maybe some would use a table saw. But I think the track saw is the easiest and worked great for me.

To me the difference is circular saws are break down tools not suitable for finish cuts in "nice" furniture. Track saws are fully capable of finish cuts but quite challenging to use on smaller pieces of wood.

[Edwin Santos]

Dust control is one big factor that has made me an enthusiastic track saw owner, after having been reluctant to join the club for years.

I have just become less tolerant of working in a dusty environment as the years have passed.
The track saw shroud (mine is a Makita) does a fine job of capturing dust. Last week I was cutting up 1" MDF and 98% of the dust was captured. If I had been using my old skilsaw/shop made guide combo, I would have been working in a MDF dust cloud with a big mess to clean up afterwards.

One time I did a built-in garage organizer job that involved 8 sheets of melamine. By the end of the day, the vacuum was completely full. I realized had I used a circular saw in the traditional way, the PB dust would have been all over me, the floor, and the whole garage.


On another note, I do not believe the term "money" cut refers to pro vs. non-pro or anything financial.
As a former photographer, the term "money shot" was very common, and it referred to the shot that counted. So IMO, a money cut is the critical cut that counts, probably the one you have only one shot at getting it right. Too much information?

[Tom Bussey]

I made it and since then I remade it out of wood. I used individual ball bearings staggered verses rollers. You can get cheap ones at harbor freight or Menards. I have bearings on the bottom of the legs also so I can slide it side to side. I will take a picture of the hinges. I got the locking hinges from Rockler a long time ago and couldn't hind them on line again but didn't want to spend a lot of time looking I have since the pictures moved my work bench into the area and I have sold the General saw pictures and replaced it with a saw stop so I am in the process of shortening it again. So the hinges are on the bench.

[Brian Holcombe]

Difference is that one has a track, the other doesn’t. :D

[Jim Becker]

And you are correct about good proportion of people who make their living or part of their living via woodworking and related activities., but the person who is asking what is the difference between a track saw and a circular saw it is probably not in that category. If he was, he wouldn't be asking that question on a wood working forum.

All of us have tried to answer that question to the best of our ability from both knowledge and experience. Where that comes from isn't necessarily important...it's the information that counts. There really are some clear operational benefits to a track saw. Whether or not they are compelling enough to balance the additional cost over a more traditional circular saw approach is up to the individual woodworker. Your point of view is just as important as all the others for sure. The OP and others will benefit from it all.

--

ANd as always, Mr. Holcombe has distilled the answer down to the sharpest tool advice there is... :)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Difference is that one has a track, the other doesn’t. :DNot only that - but - one seems to draw all sorts of condemnation & the other one doesn't :D :D
I don't know what exactly it is that rubs people so far the wrong way about track saws?
I have to wonder if it's the track saws or is it because for so long Track saw meant Festool?

[andy bessette]

...I don't know what exactly it is that rubs people so far the wrong way about track saws?...

Ignorance of the tool, its true value and its abilities.

[Edward Weber]

Ignorance of the tool, its true value and its abilities.


Maybe some are not fans of the tools for other reasons like the expense or proprietary nature of some of them. Or maybe, the fact that some people deify the tool, many without having done the same job using another method. (that tends to rub some people the wrong way)
If it's what you like using, no one wants to stop you. The tool is simply not to everyone's needs or taste.
Personally, I don't own one but if I needed one for a job where it was the best tool for the job, I would go out and buy one without reservation.

[Brian Holcombe]

Much contention over nothing. Buy one and use it if you want it, don’t if not. It’s a nice tool to have for me, I bought one after seeing a local shop use it a long time ago. I use it occasionally for ripping down stuff too large to manage.

Nice to have a circular saw with a short track or without a track for crosscutting long oversized pieces.

[Marc Fenneuff]

Much contention over nothing. Buy one and use it if you want it, don’t if not.

+1

I bought a Makita this year to break down sheet goods in my small shop. I wanted to add good dust collection to that process, and to save myself a "cleanup cut" at the table saw. The tool delivers on that so I'm satisfied with it. My DeWalt circular saw with a plywood blade, cutting against a straight 8' board, worked for years but I wanted the upgrade.

[John Gornall]

The Makita track saw has a scoring function that justifys owning it for me. Just push a little button and depth of cut is 1 mil. Run the scoring cut, pop the button out and make the full cut. Cutting birch plywood today, not breaking down, finished pieces. My tablesaw doesn't have a scoring blade.

Working in an old house with none standard doors, had to cut off bottom and top of each door - Makita with scoring made me smile.

[andy bessette]

My Festool doesn't need a scoring cut--splinter-free cuts on both sides.

[Warren Wilson]

I can’t wait until SawStop makes a track saw. Just THINK of the posts that will generate!

[Mike Kees]

I can’t wait until SawStop makes a track saw. Just THINK of the posts that will generate!
Sawstop is owned by festool.

[Jim Becker]

Sawstop is owned by festool.

Sawstop is owned by the same company that owns Festool, Tanos and Shaper Origin and a couple of others.