What do I do with this wood?

[Jason Christenson]

I'm headed out to my parents farm this weekend to forage for some wood so I can start my bowl turning career.:) I'm planning on cutting wood from the firewood pile and from fallen trees in the shelter belts. I have a couple of questions:

What size should I cut these to? (This will be my first attempt but I will Probably want some larger ones for down the road too.)

What do I do to keep these from cracking or checking before I can start turning them? I don't have time to procure anchor seal. It will probably be at least two weeks before I have any real time for turning.

Thanks,
Jason

[Mark Cothren]

If you're going to cut quite a bit, then cut them about twice as long as the diameter (10" log - 20" long).

You can use paint for the ends - probably not as good as wax, but better than nothing.

I'm sure others will have more informative and valuable input.

Good luck!

[Raymond Overman]

Check out Bill Grumbine's site at http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/ for harvesting and sizing answers.

You can use old latex paint as an alternative to anchorseal or if it's cold where you are (<40 or50 degrees) you'll probably be ok for a couple of weeks. Just keep them out of the sun.

For a compilation of drying techniques, I wrote an article for our woodturning club website. It can be found here:

http://www.charlottewoodturners.org/Resources/Articles/tabid/62/Default.aspx

It's from various sources on the Internet.

[Ed Lang]

I take the log as long as I can get it and bring to the shop. then seal the ends with anchorseal. I buy anchorseal from US coatings website and get shipped via UPS. Order it today and you will have it when you get back next week.

If I am cutting blanks like I did last weekend and don't have time to seal them, I pile them up and either cover with a tarp or but them in trash bags. Keep them out of the sun. This way I create a humid enviroment till I can seal them. Do not leave them this way for weeks or you will start to learn about spalting, leave that for later on.

I always cut the pith out of my blanks if they will not be put on the lathe right then.

Above advise is good. Bill's website, and DVD will help a LOT. Buy his DVD!

Enjoy, no matter what you do!

This first wood I got I did not seal, did not cut the pith out and it all cracked up. No big bowl blanks out of it but I got a ton of blanks for boxes and other smaller items. Bottom line, don't sweat it, enjoy it.

[Greg Savage]

Paint is no real guard against checking.....but, better that nothing. Go with Anchorseal. I buy mine directly from US Coatings Corporation in Buffalo. 5 gallons will cost about $42 delivered, but it has been a few years since I ordered any, so the prices may have changed. It is still way cheaper that buying a gallon at a time from the catalogues at @$16 a gallon +shipping.

Here is a phone #......716-833-9366


Anchorseal comes in colors and you can get it with anti-freeze added.

I just found the website

https://www.uccoatings.com/prod_anchorseal.php

[John Hart]

Hey Jason,
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is time and location...So I'll chime in a bit. Sealing is very important so, if you can't get anchorseal, most woodworker stores have stuff on the shelf (Rockler, Woodcraft). A little more expensive but a gallon goes a long way and well worth it considering that the alternative is that you'll just have firewood. If latex is your only option, be sure to thin it so it can soak in a bit. Seal as soon as possible. Any time in a heated room will result in the drying process to begin....and cracking. Also, you have the advantage that it is cool right now. Even after sealing, if you have a cool place to store your blanks, it's best to store them there. Doesn't hurt to stack them tight and cover them too. Anything to slow the evaporation process.