Decided to keep my dad's old router table...but the router is toast.

[Chess Baloo]

I had taken home the router table top and the fence, but I decided to go pick up the cabinet as well since the top was made for it. It has been sitting in a barn for probably 5 years and was in nasty condition (mouse poop! EEK!!) and that is why I had not taken it initially....but we blew it out, and then when I got it home I took everything out and scrubbed the hell out of it...spayed it with bleach and lysol and anything else I could think of LOL, and sanded where the mice had eaten away at a couple of spots. Anyway, I had to do a little work to get the drawers to fit back in, but all in all, I think it is a nice useful item now - plus my dad built it so there's that.

The router however, is dead. Not surprised since it probably has not been touched in many many years. I am attaching pictures of the table and the parts. I would like to put another (new) router in there, and eventually close in the front with a plexiglass door (but that will be later!). Can I use the existing top panel and that round piece (sorry I don't know the terms - I am just learning all this stuff!) with a new router? Or do I buy a router and somehow adjust the panel for the router?

Also, he made that top right compartment (I assume) as a place to store the cord...there are holes coming out of the back and the side...and a cutout on the inside. I think I would want a stop/start button on there somewhere...so that might be another change I add on later.


(Hopefully y'all understand what I am asking - I know I sound a bit clueless - because I am! :o )

Thanks for any advice!! (And I don't know why these pictures are posting upside down - they are right side up on my PC!)

Edit...looks like this is a "universal plate" https://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=router+plate&qid=1625072819&sr=8-6
So I guess I should be able to fit a router to the plate...although I was hoping to not have to drill more holes.

[Dave Sabo]

What kind / brand of router is the deceased ?

[Chess Baloo]

It's a Porter Cable 8529.

[Jim Becker]

Ok, that was a 12 amp "2.5hp" plunger that replaced the PC7529 that preceded it. If you want to stay with a 12 amp router, pretty much any of the current offerings from DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc., will work. I personally prefer a heavier router in the table, but if you don't anticipate swinging larger diameter cutters, you don't need the heavier 15 amp tools.

[Chess Baloo]

Ok, that was a 12 amp "2.5hp" plunger that replaced the PC7529 that preceded it. If you want to stay with a 12 amp router, pretty much any of the current offerings from DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc., will work. I personally prefer a heavier router in the table, but if you don't anticipate swinging larger diameter cutters, you don't need the heavier 15 amp tools.


Thanks. What about the "lift" function that so many mention? Do all routers come with this feature now? (Again, sorry, this is ALL new to me - I have only used a palm router and that was just this year for the first time - I am very much in the learning stages!)

[Jim Becker]

Thanks. What about the "lift" function that so many mention? Do all routers come with this feature now? (Again, sorry, this is ALL new to me - I have only used a palm router and that was just this year for the first time - I am very much in the learning stages!)
Some plunge routers have above the table raise/lower for use in tables. But many folks use a router with a fixed base in an actual table insert that provides the lift. Honestly, the convenience is nice, but a simple router motor in a fixed base where you have access to the router body, either directly or via a door, can be VERY precisely raised/lowered merely by unlocking it, rotating it and re-locking it. It comes down to what you want to invest...

[Chess Baloo]

Some plunge routers have above the table raise/lower for use in tables. But many folks use a router with a fixed base in an actual table insert that provides the lift. Honestly, the convenience is nice, but a simple router motor in a fixed base where you have access to the router body, either directly or via a door, can be VERY precisely raised/lowered merely by unlocking it, rotating it and re-locking it. It comes down to what you want to invest...


Thank you.

I don't mind spending a bit if it gets me some real convenience. Since I have the plate already (and it is a 9 x 12 plate which apparently is not that common a size) what are my options, if I want to stick with that same plate? Would I have to buy a different plate (insert) to get the lift feature? I guess a better way to word my question is....is the lift strictly a function/feature of an insert plate. If so, then I am probably SOL there, since the table is already cut to fit the existing plate.

[Dan Cameron]

Grizzly offers router lifts with 9 x 12 plates. You need also to take note of the router plate thickness as well as specific lift/router pairing compatibility listings.

[Chess Baloo]

Grizzly offers router lifts with 9 x 12 plates. You need also to take note of the router plate thickness as well as specific lift/router pairing compatibility listings.

Yep - I understand that. I think I just want to stick with the plate that is there now. I am still learning about all this so probably best to not try and get too complicated yet. :p And I won't be doing anything fancy - for a while I imagine I will just be puttering and learning how to use the table.

[Ralph Okonieski]

Really think about getting a lift. I do understand you are not planning anything “fancy” but the lifts allow you to adjust router height in very small amounts, something you will probably encounter even doing simpler things. Once you have a lift, you will be glad you did. As a disclaimer, I did not have a lift with my first table. After building a table, decided to get the lift and am thankful for it on every project. Can you get by without one? Sure, but not as much fun!

[Chess Baloo]

Really think about getting a lift. I do understand you are not planning anything “fancy” but the lifts allow you to adjust router height in very small amounts, something you will probably encounter even doing simpler things. Once you have a lift, you will be glad you did. As a disclaimer, I did not have a lift with my first table. After building a table, decided to get the lift and am thankful for it on every project. Can you get by without one? Sure, but not as much fun!


Using my existing table and plate, what lift could I get that would work, and with what router?

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1165-Under-Table-Router-Above-Table/dp/B0007VHPFK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Router+lift&qid=1625091992&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-2-25-HP-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Corded-Router/50056435

[David Stone (CT)]

I used a shop made router table with that exact same Rousseau plate as you've got for almost 20 years, before replacing it with a router lift. (And, BTW, what is normally meant by router lift is an accessory that marries a proprietary router plate to an integrated mechanism below that holds a fixed base router motor, which you purchase separately from a power tool maker. Incra, Woodpeckers and Jessem are some brands of lifts.)

Personally, I think you are on the right track to stick with what you have for the moment--which is perfectly good--and, like you say, learn the basics of using a router table. Then you can make an informed judgment whether the convenience elements of having a router lift (namely, no longer making the height adjustments under the table and having finer control of them, plus not needing to pull the motor out of the table to change bits) are worth its several hundred dollars cost or not (and quite possibly having to replace your whole top in the process due to the sizing issue you correctly identify--DAMHIKT).

Before switching over to the lift, I used a medium size fixed base router under the Rousseau plate (mine happened to be a 2 HP Bosch 1617). ...As you have observed, the fixed base portion bolts to the underside through holes in the plate. The spacing of those varies by router, so you may have to drill some new ones but that is easy to do.

[Ed Aumiller]

The Bosch router and base you listed would work great with the plate you have. There is a real good chance that you will not have to drill more holes. Even if you do, the plate has circles on the bottom where it would be easy to mount it...

Another option is to either buy another PC 8529 router off of eBay or to fix the one you have... parts are readily available for it.. probably just bad bearings if it is frozen...

Also, the cabinet looks like the one by Norm Abram from the New Yankee workshop..

Looks like your father did a great job of making it... glad you decided to keep it..

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=new+yankee+workshop+router+table&qpvt=new+yankee+workshop+router+table&form=IQFRML&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle

[Jim Becker]

Using my existing table and plate, what lift could I get that would work, and with what router?

Using your existing plate, you'd need a router that has native under-table height adjustment. That's a fixed router plate. A "true" lift would replace the current plate and hold a router motor within it's mechanism for the most part.

[Chess Baloo]

Using your existing plate, you'd need a router that has native under-table height adjustment. That's a fixed router plate. A "true" lift would replace the current plate and hold a router motor within it's mechanism for the most part.

Thanks! So much to learn! :o

[Chess Baloo]

The Bosch router and base you listed would work great with the plate you have. There is a real good chance that you will not have to drill more holes. Even if you do, the plate has circles on the bottom where it would be easy to mount it...

Another option is to either buy another PC 8529 router off of eBay or to fix the one you have... parts are readily available for it.. probably just bad bearings if it is frozen...

Also, the cabinet looks like the one by Norm Abram from the New Yankee workshop..

Looks like your father did a great job of making it... glad you decided to keep it..

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=new+yankee+workshop+router+table&qpvt=new+yankee+workshop+router+table&form=IQFRML&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle

Oh my GOSH. That is the exact cabinet!! Thank you so much for finding that. So now I know that he DID probably intend to put a stop/start switch on it. Knowing dad, he just procrastinated on that item. :p I will HAVE to add it now.
And there should be a door on the opening too - I definitely want to add that. I'll have to check the plans and see how to do it. Thanks again.

BTW, I went to Lowe's and bought the Bosch. I got the combo - I figured better to have the plunge base just in case I ever want to use it that way. Now we'll see if I can get it installed. Will work on that tomorrow!

[Chess Baloo]

I used a shop made router table with that exact same Rousseau plate as you've got for almost 20 years, before replacing it with a router lift. (And, BTW, what is normally meant by router lift is an accessory that marries a proprietary router plate to an integrated mechanism below that holds a fixed base router motor, which you purchase separately from a power tool maker. Incra, Woodpeckers and Jessem are some brands of lifts.)

Personally, I think you are on the right track to stick with what you have for the moment--which is perfectly good--and, like you say, learn the basics of using a router table. Then you can make an informed judgment whether the convenience elements of having a router lift (namely, no longer making the height adjustments under the table and having finer control of them, plus not needing to pull the motor out of the table to change bits) are worth its several hundred dollars cost or not (and quite possibly having to replace your whole top in the process due to the sizing issue you correctly identify--DAMHIKT).

Before switching over to the lift, I used a medium size fixed base router under the Rousseau plate (mine happened to be a 2 HP Bosch 1617). ...As you have observed, the fixed base portion bolts to the underside through holes in the plate. The spacing of those varies by router, so you may have to drill some new ones but that is easy to do.

Thank you very much for this. Very helpful and after reading it I made the decision to go ahead and buy the Bosch 1617. And WOW on the cost of a lift! :eek: While I can afford it, I have no desire to put that much into this right now and I darn sure do NOT want to replace that top (as if I even was even capable of doing that at this point!). Thanks again.

P.S. I had to laugh at the "DAMHIKT" - I am no internet newb but I had never seen that before - hilarious and I will be using that in the future! :D

[Dave Sabo]

Before you do ANYTHING - look up a couple of YouTube videos on the pc 7/8529 routers and repairs.

As I recall there is a small micro switch that goes out of alignment and renders them otherwise useless. Speed control is finicky too.

[Chess Baloo]

Before you do ANYTHING - look up a couple of YouTube videos on the pc 7/8529 routers and repairs.

As I recall there is a small micro switch that goes out of alignment and renders them otherwise useless. Speed control is finicky too.

Not sure I want to deal with taking it apart and looking for parts. I found this video but I can't even get through the first minute - the guy was talking SO slow LOL. Had to fast forward - enough to see that there is a circuit board repair, and that is definitely out of my box at the moment. :p

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug1QJmspmMw&t=309s&ab_channel=DanDew

Probably will let someone else deal with that. I already bought a new router so I will work on getting that set up.

[Ed Aumiller]

If this is what you bought:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-12-2-25-HP-Variable-Speed-Combo-Fixed-Plunge-Corded-Router-with-Case/1014955
you can adjust it from above the table....
just need to drill a hole above the height adjustment fine tune knob...

Have fun with it, just be careful...

[Chess Baloo]

If this is what you bought:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-12-2-25-HP-Variable-Speed-Combo-Fixed-Plunge-Corded-Router-with-Case/1014955
you can adjust it from above the table....
just need to drill a hole above the height adjustment fine tune knob...

Have fun with it, just be careful...

Yep that is what I got. I think I had read that you could adjust from the top - there is a little twist wrench in the kit. I was thrilled to see that I could match up the 3 hole pattern. (Seriously you do NOT want to see the plate for my little Rigid palm router - that was my first (and only) experience trying to drill holes in a mounting place. At one point I was ready to buy a new plate - it was VERY hard to get the holes to match up - I use it with the little Rockler mini-table. Probably an indication that this whole foray into the big boy might be beyond my skillset! :o ).

Hopefully drilling the other hole for the tuning knob won't be so hard since it does not have to be as exact. It will be a while before I am brave enough (and am confident enough!) to turn it on! In any event, I need to get it into the table and learn a bit about how it works first. But this is exciting! Hopefully my dad is smiling down on me from above. Either that or he is shaking his head LOL. (My BF thinks I am nuts. :p )

And thanks - I will be very careful!

[Chess Baloo]

Is there a specific type of drill bit that one should use to drill into that plate? Just asking since the last one I seemed to make a mess of...

[Jim Haberkorn]

Why not check into the cost of repairing the 8529. It may be some thing fairy inexpensive, Then everything would fit back together the way it was. Check for a woodworking club in your area. They would know of a shop that could repair what you have, and maybe even help you with the learning curve.

Habe

[Jim Haberkorn]

Why not repair the router you have. If the cost is reasonable. Then it all fits back together like it was. Check into a wood working club in your area. They would know of repair shops in your area, Or even ask at Rockler or Woodcraft if they are close to you.

Habe

[Chess Baloo]

Why not repair the router you have. If the cost is reasonable. Then it all fits back together like it was. Check into a wood working club in your area. They would know of repair shops in your area, Or even ask at Rockler or Woodcraft if they are close to you.

Habe

The old router has a lot of rust, and it really looks to be in rough shape. I just don't really have the desire to spend the time repairing it.

[Ed Aumiller]

Just use a standard drill bit.. Put a mark with a center punch (or phillips screwdriver) where you want to drill to keep it from moving... Use a variable speed drill on a very low speed... put it on a board so when you go thru it doesn't chip....

[Chess Baloo]

Just use a standard drill bit.. Put a mark with a center punch (or phillips screwdriver) where you want to drill to keep it from moving... Use a variable speed drill on a very low speed... put it on a board so when you go thru it doesn't chip....

I used a brad point bit, those have such a good tip I could use it to mark the center too. I put a bit of WD40 on there, and it drilled a nice hole. No cracking. Yay!

[Rick Potter]

I have a router like yours, didn't run right. I removed the switch cover, and it was crammed with sawdust. Blew it out and it has been in use for several years now.

[Chess Baloo]

I have a router like yours, didn't run right. I removed the switch cover, and it was crammed with sawdust. Blew it out and it has been in use for several years now.

Thanks - this one simply does not turn on at all. Nothing. Not a hum or anything - completely dead.

[Chess Baloo]

If this is what you bought:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-12-2-25-HP-Variable-Speed-Combo-Fixed-Plunge-Corded-Router-with-Case/1014955
you can adjust it from above the table....
just need to drill a hole above the height adjustment fine tune knob...

Have fun with it, just be careful...

I finally figured out how to use the router in the table. I had company over the holiday and just have not had much time, but the last couple of evenings I played around with it. I didn't realize that I did not have the router positioned as high as it could be (there are 3 positions) and I was really trying to understand how in the heck you get the collet loosened w/o sticking the wrenches under the table - was driving me nuts.

Then I watched a Youtube video on the same router, and when he mentioned the 3 different click-in heights - well that was a head-smack moment. Once I got THAT figured out, then the positioning of the fence and the wood...and I won't even tell you what I did the first try, it was so stupid. But, I finally got a beautiful round-over edge on a piece of scrap. Next think I need is something to push that wood across - I don't like using my hands!

Can't wait until lumber prices get back to something reasonable so I can start playing around more.

[lowell holmes]

I think a trip to the big box stores and handling the tools will help.