Where are you with the unicorn sharpening method?

[Mike Allen1010]

A while back I was intrigued by the "unicorn sharpening method" advocated by David Weaver and and discussed/described here on SMC by various posters. In brief, for me this means grinding primary bevel at ~15 degrees on slow speed wheel, free handing on coarser stone slightly higher secondary bevel (~20-25 degrees?), And then removing the wire edge on slow speed buffing wheel with green compound.

I started using this method with paring chisels, gradually moved to standard bench chisels and finally plane irons, both bevel up and bevel down. I'm probably successful about 80% of the time, sometimes requires a do over. I'm very pleased with the results; it's superfast, requires no jigs, only needs two stones (superfine for flattening the back and 800 grit for raising wire edge on the secondary bevel), and best of all I typically get a very sharp edge that last at least as long as is standard 25° primary and 30° secondary bevel. Granted most my work is in hand tool friendly domestic hardwoods. Running my finger along the edge it doesn't always feel razor-sharp but results on the would have been more than satisfactory for me.

I probably end up grinding often and my sharpening station is covered with green compound and buffing wheel debris, but overall I love the speed of resharpening and the quality of the edge. Admittedly I'm not a metallurgist, don't apply any sophisticated scientific method to evaluate "sharpness" and do believe there's a little bit of voodoo in finding/applying the best sharpening technique for various types of steel. That said, I'm definitely a fan. I'm interested in the thoughts and experience of my fellow Creekers?

All the best, Mike

[chris carter]

I never liked the Unicorn method because it meant keeping my bench grinder out. It also meant taking the blade back to the stone frequently. Call me crazy, but that’s too inconvenient for me. But I was intrigued by everyone claiming it was the best thing since sliced bread. So, I came up with what I call the “half-a-corn” method. It’s for people who like unicorns, but are afraid of getting stabbed by the actual horn.

My previous sharpening method was once in a blue moon take the chisel/iron to the stone to 1000grit (“extra-fine” in DMT) and then strop with green compound. Generally speaking, after that they only get stropped for at least a few months before I touch them up on the extra-fine stone. I keep my strop hanging from my bench, so all the stropping doesn’t even require moving my feet. So all I did was give the edge an extra 10 or so swipes tipped up a few degrees. Think of it as a micro secondary bevel, except only done with the strop. I can only see it if I get the edge EXACTLY right in the light, and even then it’s darn hard to see requiring a good 30 minutes of squinting. But the result? My 25 deg chisels and irons now last TWICE as long. Seriously.

So this brings up a huge question for me about the unicorn method. Is it overkill? This is certainly easier and faster than the official unicorn method. Yet it seems to get just as good of a result and does so little to the edge that you don’t need to keep going back to the stone so frequently – and you don’t have to walk over to the grinder either. I wonder if the Unicorn method is like using vise-grips to open a soda bottle that you can just open with your fingers??

I did this on one chisel just goofing around. After two months being thrilled with that chisel, I proceeded to do it on every chisel/iron as soon as it came time to strop it. Now everything lasts significantly longer. The only chisel that doesn’t have it is my 2” chisel because it also serves as my planing chisel when turning on my pole lathe as I think it might screw it up for that task.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I’ve been using the Unicorn method since Winston Chang posted his video on this forum. Also read Weaver’s treatise on it. After getting past the learning curve I can honestly say I love it! I haven’t examined the edges under an electron microscope or even a 10x power loupe, but my old plastic handle Stanley and Buck Bros. chisels perform as well as my Lie Nielsens and, unlike the LNs, I can bang the hell out of them and they keep coming back for more. Puts all the gobbledygook about the ability to sharpen different steels and the various sharpening methods to rest. At least in my opinion.

Now, comparing plane blades is slightly different due to the thickness of the blade, chipbreaker, overall quality of the manufacturing, etc. Although I get my Stanley blades very sharp, I’d rate the performance of my LN and Veritas planes to be better. Again, not a product of the method but rather improvements in the overall quality of the tool.

With the exception of a couple of woodies, all my spokeshaves are Stanley. I haven’t tried the Unicorn method on them yet.

[Jim Koepke]

It was tried and it can produce a sharp edge.


I probably end up grinding often

My main reason for sticking to my stones and strop since they can also produce a very sharp edge.

jtk

[Eric Rathhaus]

Mike glad you started this thread. I luv it for chisels. Quick and very fast as I always have my grinder out on my sharpening station. I'm wondering about your success with bevel down plane irons. Sometimes it works great for me, and sometimes not at all, and I have to start over.

Chris - I think Bill Tindall at wood central said he also went from the grinder to using a strop and gets the same effect.

[steven c newman]

This yellow handled "Stanley" needed a new edge when I picked it at a sale....sides were still with a factory grind. Grinder to re-set the bevel at 25 degrees...
460244
AFTER running it through the rest of my sharpening stuff...it was then "Unicorned" and then tested on some Ash...
460245
Sharpening Center...
460246
!/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" deep mortise....did just fine....
460247
Spent a day at the Rehab Shop....Irwin screwdrivers. You can also see the mortise..
460248
Same routine with this ugly Stanley.....and, I did not need a mallet, to bevel that corner,,,,,of Ash....

Bench is set up for rehab work....since the Projects are done, for a while.

[Stewie Simpson]

Use of the buffing wheel from my perspective is ideal for carving chisels and gouges. For bench chisels and plane irons where I have a preference to work to a given value with the secondary bevel I use my honing stones.

regards Stewie;

[Derek Cohen]

I see David’s Unicorn method as a creative way of providing a longer edge on chisels (primarily) where the steel is of lesser steel quality. The higher edge angle gives them extra life. However, a Unicorned dulled edge now needs to be ground back (wheel or stones) to remove the worn area. Re-sharpening is an issue for me.

Few if any of the chisels I use “need” this method. I do not wish to do this to my Japanese chisels, and to the Veritas PM-V11. Plus they hold an edge long enough for most.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rob Luter]

I've never bothered with it. Back in the day I used a buffer to put a keen edge on lathe tools, and could see using the approach on my spoon gouges as Stewie suggests. THe method I use for my bench chisels and plane irons works just fine.

[Tom M King]

I almost never use a grinder, unless there has been damage to an edge. I don't think any of my plane irons have touched a grinder in years. We're always set up in an old house, and won't sling metal chips in there, nor stuff off a buffer. I'm sure it works fine, but I'm good with my methods.

[steven c newman]

IF a chisel comes to the shop with a terrible edge....it will go see the grinder...as will a plane iron with one of these style of edges....~ (yes, I have seen a few like that)

Now, IF the grinder with the buffer wheel and wire wheel just happen to be out on the bench......I will Unicorn any edge......otherwise, the belt strop gets laid on the bench top....

The finest stone I use is a 600 grit Medium India oil stone.....then I will lay a sheet of wet-or-dry sandpaper into the oil on the stone....I go 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500...with and option of 3000 grit, then the leather belt strop....and maybe the cloth wheel.....

( should I go and pop the Popcorn? Salted? Buttered?)

[steven c newman]

Unicorn machine...
460340

[Tim Andrews]

I see David’s Unicorn method as a creative way of providing a longer edge on chisels (primarily) where the steel is of lesser steel quality. The higher edge angle gives them extra life. However, a Unicorned dulled edge now needs to be ground back (wheel or stones) to remove the worn area. Re-sharpening is an issue for me.

Few if any of the chisels I use “need” this method. I do not wish to do this to my Japanese chisels, and to the Veritas PM-V11. Plus they hold an edge long enough for most.

Regards from Perth

Derek
That’s an interesting perspective Derek, and I think it is probably accurate. I always feel that I can trust what you post, and reading some of your earlier posts led me to research the method further, order a CBN wheel and buffer pad, and give the Unicorn method a shot.

I’m very pleased with the results on my less than stellar Marples chisels, which always lost their edge quickly and got knicks in the edge far too often. Using my diamond stone for the primary bevel when needed, and a few strokes with my 6000 and 16000 grit Shaptons before buffing, the process goes quickly for me.

I was planning on ordering a set of the Vertitas PM-V11 chisels once they were back in stock, but I’m now on the fence. Do you think there is a noticeable difference between the Veritas chisels and mid range chisels that are sharpened with the Unicorn method?

[Thomas Wilson]

Has anyone compared their edge sharpness using the Edge-on-up tester for unicorn versus other sharpening techniques. I get about 45 grams on my DMT diamond plus strop method. My method is fast. I use a Lie-Nielsen guide. If I just need the secondary bevel worked, then I do 20-30 strokes on Extra Fine at the secondary bevel angle and wipe off the wire edge on the Extra Extra Fine, do 20-30 strokes on the bevel with the Extra Extra Fine, wipe off the wire. I remove from blade from the guide and do 20-30 strokes on the strop with green compound and wipe off the back. The bevel is quite shiny and the edge tests out very sharp. Doing more strokes on stones or strop does not it get the edge measurably sharper. Stropping more eventually makes it duller.

[Derek Cohen]

I was planning on ordering a set of the Vertitas PM-V11 chisels once they were back in stock, but I’m now on the fence. Do you think there is a noticeable difference between the Veritas chisels and mid range chisels that are sharpened with the Unicorn method?

I’ve had good results from Unicorning mediocre chisels. I cannot say whether they hold an edge better, worse or the same as PM-V11. There is more to using a chisel than just edge holding. Balance, finish, land size, comfort … The list goes on. Chisels are a very personal matter. I like the Veritas - great steel and balanced - and enjoy using them for dovetails. I do not feel the need to Unicorn them.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Eric Rathhaus]

I find the unicorn method generally much faster than your approach. Ten strokes or so freehand on 1200 grit film until I get a burr, take the burr off with 5000 grit film, buff on the wheel, and finish with a few strokes on the back again on the strop. Derek is right that after a number of honings you need to recreate the geometry but once you do, it's the same procedure. I don't have lots of experience with hand tools, and I've struggled to get consistent results free hand. Now I just use a jig to set the geometry on a coarse film. Adding in the time for setting up the jig, I find for chisels it' a much faster process for me.

[Elise Anna Boer]

Unicorn sharpening? How do people come up with these silly names? A few years from now someone else will come up with the best way ever and everyone will praise it. And then, a few years later the same thing happens all over again. As for me, I will keep sharpening as I have always done. I gets me the result I want quickly and efficiently.

[Edward Weber]

Agreed, I had to look it up

[Jim Koepke]

Unicorn sharpening? How do people come up with these silly names? A few years from now someone else will come up with the best way ever and everyone will praise it. And then, a few years later the same thing happens all over again. As for me, I will keep sharpening as I have always done. I gets me the result I want quickly and efficiently.

Next will be the Phoenix sharpening system which is the same as this that someone has resurrected from the flames of the past.

Then maybe the Griffin system.

Then there could be the Serpent system where we use snake and lizard skin for stropping.

This could evolve into a discussion about how 'snake oil' is the best for use on oilstones.

Finally back to the Dragon system where we drag our edges on a stone.

:D

jtk

[Dave Anderson NH]

Sharpening can be either a quick and easy movement to enable you to get the results you need from an edge tool or it can become a semi-religious fetish. I vote for the former rather than the latter which is why I tend to be reticent to take part in any sharpening threads. YMMV

[Charles Guest]

Unicorn sharpening? How do people come up with these silly names? A few years from now someone else will come up with the best way ever and everyone will praise it. And then, a few years later the same thing happens all over again. As for me, I will keep sharpening as I have always done. I gets me the result I want quickly and efficiently.

Oh, you should have been around when A2 tool steel made almost everybody swoon, or when backorders for Clark & Williams single-iron planes (who needs a cap iron?) practically put the firm out of business. And then somebody happened to remember that planes come with a cap iron. And then Hock 01, Hock cryo A2, Lee Valley's PM-V11, then comes the ruler trick, then the Grimsdale Method, which is the same as Paul Sellers' Method, and now comes grinding low and steepening at the very tip on a buffer.

So, yeah, your instincts are dead on. I'd say wake me up when it's over, but it's never over.

[Derek Cohen]

Before a few here decide to throw the baby out with the bathwater, set the mocking tone aside and understand that the Unicorn Method is different from other sharpening strategies, is useful, and has a place alongside other methods.

What the Unicorn Method is not: it is not a new way of sharpening for all. It is not about speedier sharpening. It is not about sharper than sharp. It is not the new Nirvana. As I mentioned in my earlier post, it is to be used selectively.

What the Unicorn Method is: the strategy is to add a “nano” - even smaller than micro :) - tertiary bevel of around 45 degrees. The aim here is to create a more durable edge for those blades where the steel is soft and folds too quickly. Or, if you wish to beef up the sharp end of a bevel deliberately kept low for easier entry, such as a chisel paring only. The high nano tertiary angle does this.

It is possible to do so without resorting to a power strop, that is, by using stones. David Weaver, who first posted the method, described how he used a soft loose cloth wheel as he found this quick and reliable. I concur - it is easy to overdo the tertiary nano bevel on a hard strop. Another “not”: it is not created on a hard strop, such as a leather wheel. A leather wheel is too aggressive. A soft cloth wheel is delicate.

A similar method was described to me about 15 years ago by Harrelson Stanley, when we were discussing side sharpening. He referred to this a “jointing the blade”, which involved delicately making a single side stroke with the blade held near vertical. This was done after honing, and not as a preparatory step.

The Unicorn Method was named after that mythical animal, because it is seems to be a myth that one can get a long lasting sharp edge together with ease of sharpening. The method is designed for cheap or soft steel, especially chisels. It is not to replace sharpening methods generally.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Charles Guest]

How about we Ruler Trick a PM-V11 Grimsdale'd bevel, finish it off with a Unicorn Tip or perhaps the Harrelson Swipe and top it all off with a K&K cap iron setting.

All trademarked, of course. ;)

[Jim Koepke]

How about we Ruler Trick a PM-V11 Grimsdale'd bevel, finished it off with a Unicorn Tip or perhaps the Harrelson Swipe and top it all off with a K&K cap iron setting.

All trademarked, of course. ;)

This is why my main argument about sharpening for beginners is they should start with a single bevel whether with a hollow grind or a flat grind.

It is very easy to diagnose what might have gone wrong when one keeps it simple.

With half a dozen different tricks, tips or swipes, where does one start correcting if the blade still isn't sharp?

My philosophy is to learn to consistently get to sharp first, then play with the modifiers.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

You are being sucked in, Jim. Charles is just stirring.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Charles Guest]

This is why my main argument about sharpening for beginners is they should start with a single bevel whether with a hollow grind or a flat grind.

It is very easy to diagnose what might have gone wrong when one keeps it simple.

With half a dozen different tricks, tips or swipes, where does one start correcting if the blade still isn't sharp?

My philosophy is to learn to consistently get to sharp first, then play with the modifiers.

jtk


I agree and hope that my admittedly weak attempt at parody/satire might illustrate points you're making. At some juncture it does all seem to become self-parodying, but others will disagree if it does at all, or if it does, when.

A lot of these techniques are just variations on a theme, virtually none are new, some more effective than others, some incompatible with others. It all just becomes a muddle to pudd'n brained guys like me. I'm sure there's a protocol for when and when not to deploy all of these little trucs (pardon moi), and it makes perfect sense to more than a few people. As it turns out, I am not one of them. I thought I was once. But I was wrong. Moral: take anything I say with a grain of Gros Sel De Guerande.

[Elise Anna Boer]

I remember when everyone raved about Lie Nielsen A2 chisels so I bought one out of curiosity. That was money down the drain :o

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I remember when everyone raved about Lie Nielsen A2 chisels so I bought one out of curiosity. That was money down the drain :o

They’ve worked just fine for me for more than a decade. Don’t blame the tool. Examine the technique.

[Derek Cohen]

I remember when everyone raved about Lie Nielsen A2 chisels so I bought one out of curiosity. That was money down the drain :o

While not my first choice, there is little wrong with LN, LV and Blue Spruce A2 steel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Curt Putnam]

Before a few here decide to throw the baby out with the bathwater, set the mocking tone aside and understand that the Unicorn Method is different from other sharpening strategies, is useful, and has a place alongside other methods.

What the Unicorn Method is not: it is not a new way of sharpening for all. It is not about speedier sharpening. It is not about sharper than sharp. It is not the new Nirvana. As I mentioned in my earlier post, it is to be used selectively.

What the Unicorn Method is: the strategy is to add a “nano” - even smaller than micro :) - tertiary bevel of around 45 degrees. The aim here is to create a more durable edge for those blades where the steel is soft and folds too quickly. Or, if you wish to beef up the sharp end of a bevel deliberately kept low for easier entry, such as a chisel paring only. The high nano tertiary angle does this.

It is possible to do so without resorting to a power strop, that is, by using stones. David Weaver, who first posted the method, described how he used a soft loose cloth wheel as he found this quick and reliable. I concur - it is easy to overdo the tertiary nano bevel on a hard strop. Another “not”: it is not created on a hard strop, such as a leather wheel. A leather wheel is too aggressive. A soft cloth wheel is delicate.

A similar method was described to me about 15 years ago by Harrelson Stanley, when we were discussing side sharpening. He referred to this a “jointing the blade”, which involved delicately making a single side stroke with the blade held near vertical. This was done after honing, and not as a preparatory step.

The Unicorn Method was named after that mythical animal, because it is seems to be a myth that one can get a long lasting sharp edge together with ease of sharpening. The method is designed for cheap or soft steel, especially chisels. It is not to replace sharpening methods generally.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you for writing this. I had already come to the conclusion that Unicorning was going to confined to my older, yard sale type chisels and possibly my Sorby registered and Narec mortise chisels. My Blue Spruce paring and Veritas PM-V11 chisels will stay on the Sigma Power Select II stones from Stu.

Given the not always pleasing results about which I have read, my plane blades will stay on the stones until I have more experience and understanding with the method.

[Stewie Simpson]

I remember when everyone raved about Lie Nielsen A2 chisels so I bought one out of curiosity. That was money down the drain :o

While there is nothing wrong with LN A2 steel, its a shame LN moved away from 01 steel. 01 steel will still produce a more refined cutting edge at a lower secondary bevel than A2 can achieve.

regards Stewie;

[Steve Voigt]

Before a few here decide to throw the baby out with the bathwater, set the mocking tone aside and understand that the Unicorn Method is different from other sharpening strategies, is useful, and has a place alongside other methods.



The mocking tone is mostly coming from two professional trolls who are posting under fake names, and who have been banned from numerous forums, including this one. If you've been around for a while, they're easy to spot.

Anyway…to elaborate a bit on what Derek said, the principle insight of the Unicorn, thoroughly documented with microscope pics and quantitative tests by David Weaver and Winston Chang, is this:
If you have a low primary bevel (20-25 degrees), and you add a very small "nano" bevel of up to 45 degrees, the resulting edge will be more durable, and penetrate more easily, than the same chisel would if it had a typical secondary bevel of 30-35 degrees. The 45°-ish bevel must be really small, just a few thousandths wide, hence the aptness of Derek's term "nanobevel." It also seems to help if the nanobevel is convex. And there are a number of ways to get there: with a buffing wheel, stones, a strop, or a combination of the last two.

Experiment. Be willing to fail. Keep an open mind. Ignore the trolls.

[Tim Andrews]

For those of you who are understandably skeptical about the Unicorn method, let me just state that it has definitely helped maintain the edges of my relatively inexpensive Marples chisels. You might be using higher quality chisels, or have grown weary of new sharpening methods.

I had been grinding to a 25 degree primary bevel with diamond stones when needed, and adding a secondary bevel about 27 degrees with Shapton 6000 and 16000 glass stones, followed by stropping. When working with hard maple, the edges would dull and develop knicks very quickly.

I was annoyed to the point of ordering a set of Veritas PM-V11 chisels but they were out of stock, so after reading about this method I decided to try it. The investment and learning curve was low, so I had nothing to lose. My current regimen just replaces the strop with buffing on the grinder to produce the tiny rounded tip. And for me, it works well.

I still might order those beautiful Veritas chisels which seem to be calling me...

[Stewie Simpson]

Tim; I am not having a go at your sharpening technique, but if you want to know the reason why your chisels would dull early and develop knicks, a 27* degree secondary for bench chisels is much lower than would normally be recommended.

with regards Stewie;

[Tim Andrews]

Tim; I am not having a go at your sharpening technique, but if you want to know the reason why your chisels would dull early and develop knicks, a 27* degree secondary for bench chisels is much lower than would normally be recommended.

with regards Stewie;
No problem Stewie, I appreciate your input. I was doing something similar to Rob Cosman’s technique, except he adds a tertiary bevel at about 29 degrees. I wouldn’t think an additional 2 degrees would make much difference. What angle do you think is best?

[Stewie Simpson]

No problem Stewie, I appreciate your input. I was doing something similar to Rob Cosman’s technique, except he adds a tertiary bevel at about 29 degrees. I wouldn’t think an additional 2 degrees would make much difference. What angle do you think is best?

Hi Tim; for bench chisels its a primary of 25* and secondary of 30*. If I were to still experience chipping I would increase the secondary to 32*.

I should add I have nothing against the unicorn methodology. Its an additional approach thats to available From my perspective it has a place with my carving chisels and gouges, but I dont see a reason to move away from using my bench stones for regular chisels and plane irons. Others will differ, but thats the nature of sharpening threads.

regards Stewie;

[Charles Guest]

Bruce Hoadley wrote about adding an extremely small secondary bevel ("blunting to make a better edge" I think was the tag line of the article) way back in Fine Woodworking's black and white era. He mentioned a secondary so small that it would have no impact on how the chip was formed or something along those lines. Small. He did not use the word 'nano,' but if alive today, in the internet era, he may have wished he had. He also may have had a whole corral full of unicorns.

Increasing the angle at the tip of a cutting implement, over the angle at which the bulk of the tool was ground, is older than Methuselah. You can do it any number of ways. If a buffer floats your boat, by all means use one. Carvers do, turners do, there's no reason why a bench woodworker shouldn't either if you have one.

Otherwise, nothing new has been invented. This is a running theme in honing woodworking tools, and has been for longer than anybody on this board has been alive.

[Edward Weber]

I prefer to sharpen my chisels to a point.
If i need or want a workable blunt edge that wont chip, I just forget to sharpen it from time to time. (that was a joke)
It's all a compromise, durability on one side, sharpness on the other.
Some seem to be in the camp that a teenie, tiny blunt edge is the same as a sharp edge but will last longer.
As many have said, there is nothing new here. All this secondary and tertiary bevels are the flavor of the day. I'm quite sure in the next year or so we will have the next greatest system in sharpening using unobtanium paste or something.
To me, the end result is what matters. My chisels suit my needs, to each his own.

Originally, micro bevels were for plane irons used bevel down to add a little material behind the unsupported cutting edge. With the steels most edged woodworking tools are made of today, there really is no need for a micro bevel to avoid chipping. I know some like it for speedy touch ups.
JMHO

[Jim Koepke]

I prefer to sharpen my chisels to a point.

Same here with my chisels and plane blades. One common refrain for secondary bevels or unicorn buffing is what to do when the secondary bevel gets too big or the unicorn edge becomes to rounded: REGRIND!

One of my reasons for liking a flat bevel is if carefully maintained there is no need to regrind. With hand sharpening on a flat bevel there is little effort to give a blade a quick touch up when needed instead of fighting wood with a dull tool.

It has only been recently a few chisels have been given a secondary bevel:

460711

This is a half inch chisel that cost $1. It was given a 90º secondary bevel. It is being used to clean up some rough areas on a mallet handle.

It worked so well an eighth inch and quarter inch chisel were purchased and repurposed to 90º bevels.

jtk

[Charles Guest]

If a chisel's edge isn't holding up, for whatever reason, it's nice to have the option to change the angle relatively quickly. A secondary, micro, nano, or whatever you want to call it allows that to happen. I go back to my finest stone and hone on the grind for maybe ten or fifteen strokes. This takes a little off the 'butt end' of the micro that's already there. Then, I just tip up at an angle that feels higher than the one I might usually use on that chisel and give it five or ten light strokes. A few strokes at that same angle on a hard rubber strop, with a slight lift on the flat side too for a stroke or two, and I'm done. You could do all of this on a buffer, or go straight to your strop (I prefer a firm one) and accomplish THE EXACT SAME THING.

Take it for what it's worth. This isn't something I created, de novo. It is not new. None of this is new.

All that said, there's an only barely rebuttable presumption that a plain, flat grind/hone works as well as anything, hell probably better.

[Curt Putnam]

Just in case some have lost the original goal that resulted in the Unicorn method. David was looking for a fast and easy way to produce a durable edge. As he demonstrates, a quick hit on the grinder, a few passes on a stone to get an angle of appx. 25° and 10 to 20 seconds in the buffer. Doesn't get much faster than that. Takes me longer to get stones, mat, water and honing guides out that it takes him to unicorn 2 chisels.

Turns out that there is a side benefit. A unicorned cheap chisel will begin to perform near the level of more expensive chisels. Apparently the softer the steel, the better the method works - in terms of improved edge durability.

From what I read and saw of David's videos and writings, the only claims made were: Fast, Cheap, Durable. I am more than willing to stand humbly corrected if I am wrong

[Edward Weber]

Just in case some have lost the original goal that resulted in the Unicorn method. David was looking for a fast and easy way to produce a durable edge. As he demonstrates, a quick hit on the grinder, a few passes on a stone to get an angle of appx. 25° and 10 to 20 seconds in the buffer. Doesn't get much faster than that. Takes me longer to get stones, mat, water and honing guides out that it takes him to unicorn 2 chisels.

Turns out that there is a side benefit. A unicorned cheap chisel will begin to perform near the level of more expensive chisels. Apparently the softer the steel, the better the method works - in terms of improved edge durability.

From what I read and saw of David's videos and writings, the only claims made were: Fast, Cheap, Durable. I am more than willing to stand humbly corrected if I am wrong


I'll agree with the fast and cheap but making a cheap chisel perform like an expensive one, I can't get onboard with that.
The steel is what it is, you can improve the durability only so much by altering the angle at the cutting edge. At some point the lesser quality will become evident.
Also, the edge may be slightly more durable but that's because it doesn't start out as sharp or have as keen of an edge from the beginning, it's been buffed away and rounded off.
Whatever works for everyone, we're all different

[Jim Koepke]

David was looking for a fast and easy way to produce a durable edge. As he demonstrates, a quick hit on the grinder, a few passes on a stone to get an angle of appx. 25° and 10 to 20 seconds in the buffer. Doesn't get much faster than that. Takes me longer to get stones, mat, water and honing guides out that it takes him to unicorn 2 chisels.

One item of great assistance on the quest for faster sharpening is to find a place to keep your stones ready at all times. My stones used to be stowed away. Getting the sharpening supplies out meant sharpening all the dull blades before putting them away.

Now my stones are set up to be used where they sit. Any blade's edge is returned to working order without delay.

If getting set up to sharpen is a chore, it is likely sharpening will be put off too long.

My blades, except lathe tools, are seldom ground.

jtk

[Winston Chang]

The mocking tone is mostly coming from two professional trolls who are posting under fake names, and who have been banned from numerous forums, including this one. If you've been around for a while, they're easy to spot.


I thought that just one of the trolls here was banned from multiple forums and kept coming back under new identities, but I guess I was wrong . :D


Experiment. Be willing to fail. Keep an open mind. Ignore the trolls.


Excellent advice!

For those who are on the fence, you can try it for yourself for only about $15. This drill-mounted buffing wheel kit used to be available at Home Depot for $10, but apparently not anymore. Now you can get it for $8 from here, plus about the same for shipping:
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/Products/Power-Tools/Power-Tool-Accessories/RYOBI-Metal-Buffing-7-Piece-Set/p/A10BK72

Just try it. At worst, you can use the buffing kit to polish your silverware. :)

[Edwin Santos]

I'm very open minded to the unicorn method, and any new or novel sharpening methods for that matter.

The few times I have tried it, it did result in a sharp edge but my concern was the rounding of the edge. I don't mean rounding in profile, but rather across the face of the chisel. I basically ended up with a cambered edge.
I just assumed this is the nature of the buffing wheel.
Perhaps I'm doing it wrong?

[steven c newman]

That would be a result of how hard one shoved the chisel into the cloth wheel.......too much pressure, and the wheel will deform. Try a lighter touch....you are buffing with the wheel, not grinding with it...ease up a bit, and let the wheel do the work.

[Charles Guest]

You can make a back bevel very small. You can make a microbevel of the bevel very small.

They're still both back bevels or microbevels.

They are nothing new. Imparting one or the other via a buffer does not make it new. People have been doing this for decades.

Surely anybody who has ever had a buffing wheel on their grinder, or a dedicated buffer, has not been able to resist the temptation of offering a plane iron or chisel to said buffer. The rest is just minor tweaking. It would take an idiot of the first class to stand there and hold the tip of a chisel on a buffing wheel (soft or otherwise) until the edge is just obliterated. Anybody with a basic understanding of rotating power equipment knows you can't do this.

[Edward Weber]

You can make a back bevel very small. You can make a microbevel of the bevel very small.

They're still both back bevels or microbevels.

They are nothing new. Imparting one or the other via a buffer does not make it new. People have been doing this for decades.

Removing metal to create a sharp edge, sounds simple enough to me.
I sharpen my chisels to a single bevel point, after some usage the edge begins to dull very slightly, leaving a moderately less sharp edge (I call it working sharp). This is where the sharpness and durability are in balance. A decent chisel will keep this balance or working sharp edge for quite some time before the edge needs to be addressed.
The Mythical creature system seems to be artificially trying to get to this point, which comes naturally with use. I ask, why bother.
I would like to know from those of you using two or three bevels, how do you use your chisel bevel down? It would seem you'd be at an awfully high angle of attack making it more difficult to use. Just curious.
Some may find this interesting/helpful
https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/1_How_Tools_Cut_Wood/1_How_Tools_Cut_Wood.htm

[Mike Brady]

I have to say I don't get the whole obsession with trying to make cheap chisels perform. I don't hear or read anything good about cheap saws or cheap planes even though they probably can be made to work to a useable level. This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

[Edward Weber]

This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

I agree 100%
I have a set of those (shop-fox branded). They work in a pinch but they do not last. The steel in them is simply put, junk. I use them in rough situations, the ones where I wouldn't subject my good chisels to. They chip, bend and basically fall apart with any kind of heavy use. For light paring they're passable.

[Charles Guest]

Removing metal to create a sharp edge, sounds simple enough to me.
I sharpen my chisels to a single bevel point, after some usage the edge begins to dull very slightly, leaving a moderately less sharp edge (I call it working sharp). This is where the sharpness and durability are in balance. A decent chisel will keep this balance or working sharp edge for quite some time before the edge needs to be addressed.
The Mythical creature system seems to be artificially trying to get to this point, which comes naturally with use. I ask, why bother.
I would like to know from those of you using two or three bevels, how do you use your chisel bevel down? It would seem you'd be at an awfully high angle of attack making it more difficult to use. Just curious.
Some may find this interesting/helpful
https://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/1_How_Tools_Cut_Wood/1_How_Tools_Cut_Wood.htm

There's no rule that a microbevel is high, per se, it's just a slightly higher angle than the one at which the tool was ground. You could have a micro at 20* on a chisel ground at 15* Or one at 15* on one ground at 10*, or one at 30* on a chisel ground at 25*.

Up to the user....

Or just flat grind at one angle. Nothing wrong with it. In the fullness of time, it's been the default.

[Rafael Herrera]

What's wrong with getting a cheap chisel performing as well as a chisel that's 30 to 100 times more expensive? A chrome vanadium steel chisel from HF costs $1.67, it works pretty well with or without the buffer.

This is one of them chisels on american beech, it didn't fold, chip or loose its edge, it preformed as well as other vintage cast steel or Ashley Isle chisels.

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[steven c newman]

Not a thing wrong...unless one is a snob. Used a Aldi's chisel today....to clean up T & G joints in Ash....and have been doing that for about a week...no issues.

Makes one wonder....is it the tool holding the woodworker back, or, is it the woodworker holding the tool back? A P-poor worker tends to blame the tools...rather than himself...I think that is how the saying goes.

[Edwin Santos]

That would be a result of how hard one shoved the chisel into the cloth wheel.......too much pressure, and the wheel will deform. Try a lighter touch....you are buffing with the wheel, not grinding with it...ease up a bit, and let the wheel do the work.


Not a thing wrong...unless one is a snob. Used a Aldi's chisel today....to clean up T & G joints in Ash....and have been doing that for about a week...no issues.

Makes one wonder....is it the tool holding the woodworker back, or, is it the woodworker holding the tool back? A P-poor worker tends to blame the tools...rather than himself...I think that is how the saying goes.

Steven - thank you for a constructive response. I'll try a lighter touch. I saw the video Winston linked at one time, and the attraction was not just the durability but also the speed at being able to retouch the edge and get back to work.
And yes, I admire craftsmen who do fine work with humble tools.

When different techniques come along, whether old or new, I see no harm in trying them out. If it turns out to be a waste of time, it's my time and there are worse ways to waste it.
On the other hand, if the technique is a keeper so much the better.
And if I am going to be an idiot, may as well be a first class one.
Thanks again,

[Charles Guest]

I have to say I don't get the whole obsession with trying to make cheap chisels perform. I don't hear or read anything good about cheap saws or cheap planes even though they probably can be made to work to a useable level. This all stems back to Paul Sellers and the Aldi chisels. I admit I tried some and found that they performed and looked as expected... lackluster. Compared to the modern and vintage tools in my assortment, they were maybe ok for the handyman tool box, but not a replacement for anything but the worst plastic handled ones.

The Preston router planes Sellers has, more than one, will set you back four figures in the vintage market if you can find one for sale at all. I guess the Aldi thing is supposed to be some sort of nod to frugal woodworking. Good for a laugh at least, the notion of 'frugal' woodworking and those as well equipped as Sellers seemingly promoting it.

When a square foot of decent lumber an inch thick costs over $5, and up to many multiples of that number, you are not engaged in anything remotely resembling a frugal hobby.

A buck fifty chisel isn't going to make the whole thing gel all of a sudden.

[Dave Zellers]

The Preston router planes Sellers has, more than one, will set you back four figures in the vintage market

Wowzers! And last April he gave one away when he reached 500K subs. But geeze, it just looks like a wide plate, 2 knobs, and the cutter.

[Charles Guest]

There was a firm that used to make a reproduction, I think it sold for $600 or so. Not sure if that company is still in business. Preston, of course, is not.

[Mike Allen1010]

Many thanks to all who have posted on this thread. My sincere intent in posting was to solicit the insights, experience and perspectives of my fellow Neander's with regard to the unicorn sharpening method. I really appreciate all those who shared their thoughts. I found the comments and perspectives helpful.

As usual, the topic of sharpening generated a lively response. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity that SMC affords to learn from like-minded hand tool woodworkers. Personally I can live without the sniping, have enough that in middle school.

Cheers, Mike

[Dave Zellers]

There was a firm that used to make a reproduction, I think it sold for $600 or so. Not sure if that company is still in business. Preston, of course, is not.

Yeah, I was thinking it could be produced and sold for a profit around $500, so close. Perhaps just not enough Neanderthals out there. I love my Veritas router plane.

[Charles Guest]

Yeah, I was thinking it could be produced and sold for a profit around $500, so close. Perhaps just not enough Neanderthals out there. I love my Veritas router plane.

https://www.walkemooretools.com/

Not sure if they're still making them or not. A steal at the listed prices. I could have sworn that I saw them selling at $600 or so. Could have been a bronze version by the same company.

[Dave Zellers]

It's not like there is any complexity to it. At $300 (less without fence, more with) it seems very reasonable.

Although the Large Veritas with all the trimmings is the same money...

[Charles Guest]

It's not like there is any complexity to it. At $300 (less without fence, more with) it seems very reasonable.

Although the Large Veritas with all the trimmings is the same money...

The Preston pattern makes so much sense to me. Seems the perfect size.

[Edward Weber]

I understand that, I was really referring the finding the edge.
If I use mine bevel down, I know the point is at the end of the bevel which I can reference on the work surface. With secondary and tertiary bevels, the cutting edge is not ant the end of the primary bevel and the handle must be lifted for it to engage in the work piece.

As I said, I sharpen mine differently so I was curious as to the pro's and cons

[Charles Guest]

I understand that, I was really referring the finding the edge.
If I use mine bevel down, I know the point is at the end of the bevel which I can reference on the work surface. With secondary and tertiary bevels, the cutting edge is not ant the end of the primary bevel and the handle must be lifted for it to engage in the work piece.

As I said, I sharpen mine differently so I was curious as to the pro's and cons

There's potential for it to become a bit of a muddle I guess.

Forgetting all the details momentarily, I'm still mildly perplexed/confused/entertained by those who have or had buffers or buffing wheels on grinders in their shop and it never occurred to them to polish up a plane iron or chisel's cutting edge. For what purpose was the buffer there in the first place? Mind-boggling really to read responses from people that seemed to have had buffers all along but in essence are saying "wow, I never thought about using one on a cutting edge."

Some people either have an unfathomable lack of curiosity, or I hate to say it are not particularly bright, though it's often hard to separate the two.

The guy who hung the name on the process at least should get credit for being curious enough to try it out. "Wow, these machines put a pretty nice shine on things, let's see what she'll do for this chisel."

[Edward Weber]

Well, that's one way to look at it

[Charles Guest]

Well, that's one way to look at it

Seems like most people put a buffer in play for carving chisels and/or turning tools. Hard to imagine not extending processes and procedures to include bench chisels and plane irons. If you're deft enough to use them on carving and turning tools, everything else should be cake.

[Rafael Herrera]

When I brought up the use of the buffer wheel as part of a sharpening routine the reaction I got from a professional woodworker was that that was the wrong thing to do, that it would round and blunt the edge. Well, he was obviously wrong, but he was probably expressing the collective "wisdom" in regards to the proper use of the buffer. I have to admit that originally my buffer was installed to polish metal, not to sharpen tools. I also was not curious enough to try and experiment with it. Once pointed out, it seems obvious, but 20-20 hindsight is the easiest thing to do.

[Edward Weber]

I have a buffer in my shop, always have. I use it for everything to polishing metal to buffing wax onto wood (bealle buffing system) and everything in between.
I do however wax most all of my cutting tools with Renaissance wax. This keeps them in good condition as well as maintaining a slick surface that nothing sticks to. I do use the buffing wheel to polish the wax on chisels, etc., NOT to create a cutting edge.

[Jim Koepke]

Some people either have an unfathomable lack of curiosity, or I hate to say it are not particularly bright, though it's often hard to separate the two.

The guy who hung the name on the process at least should get credit for being curious enough to try it out.

Isn't it curiosity that leads to learning which leads to the curios person to be thought of as "particularly bright?"

My understanding is the person who called it the unicorn process did so because he didn't want it to have his name.

Using a buffing wheel on an edge has been around for a long time. It has mostly been used on carving tools. In one discussion on it here one of my posts contained an image from a Fine Woodworking magazine from ~40 years ago discussing the process. It isn't much different than a power strop.

It can compare to a micro bevel. eventually a micro bevel grows larger and larger. Then either the blade has to be reground or the micro bevel grows to a full fledged flat bevel.

My question is why use a 30º micro bevel instead of starting with a 30º flat bevel?

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

When I brought up the use of the buffer wheel as part of a sharpening routine the reaction I got from a professional woodworker was that that was the wrong thing to do, that it would round and blunt the edge. Well, he was obviously wrong, but he was probably expressing the collective "wisdom" in regards to the proper use of the buffer. I have to admit that originally my buffer was installed to polish metal, not to sharpen tools. I also was not curious enough to try and experiment with it. Once pointed out, it seems obvious, but 20-20 hindsight is the easiest thing to do.

Carving is a large part of my business and I know many quality carvers. We do not use buffers for our tools. We want a precision edge because we ride the tools on the bevels and on the backs. When someone talks about buffing a carving tool, they're probably not much of a carver.

Sculptors are somewhat different. They are not so precision oriented and many do work from a buffed edge.

[Edward Weber]

We do not use buffers for our tools. We want a precision edge because we ride the tools on the bevels and on the backs.


I tried to touch on this earlier.
Micro-bevels make sense in a tool with a housing like a plane, where the sole is the reference surface for the cutting edge and the cutting edge in unsupported. In this situation the micro bevel does not change the cutting angle and creates mass behind the edge for strength/durability of the edge.
With chisels and gouges, a micro-bevel creates a higher angle (less sharp) at the cutting edge It also moves the cutting edge from the large primary bevel to the much smaller secondary or micro-bevel. This makes referencing or supporting the cut from the primary bevel no longer possible. I believe that the cutting edge should be at the end of the primary bevel to better utilize the chisel from both the back and the front (primary bevel). A micro-bevel is not a reference surface you can reliably register a cut from. If you never use your chisel bevel down, I guess it's not an issue.

[Jacob Chavez]

Thanks for this tidbit. I'd never though about this or heard anyone mention it as a downside of secondary bevels.

I'm going to o post a topic on hand sharpening quality chisels or wheel sharpening cheaper chisels. I'd love your thoughts on this.

[Edward Weber]

For those interested, this article came out a few weeks ago and fits in with the thread.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/the-unicorn-sharpening-meathod/

[Christopher Charles]

Edward,

Thanks for posting the link to the pop wood article. Good to see them provide a summary of their findings and get some credit that's due.

Best,
Chris

[Charles Guest]

If one is so inclined:

Koch Sharpening System. Not sure about its current availability.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/koch-sharpener-ht2000

From the late Nora Hall's website:

The Koch Sharpening System includes: 2 wheels and 1 paste. The two wheels or disks are manufactured using selected natural fibre and a specially developed process developed for the wheels. This has been patented. One wheel will be used for flat tools, and the second wheel for curved tools. For very wide tools, mount two wheels side-by-side.

During the sharpening action, both disks turn in a direction away from the body. The prescribed rotating direction is marked on each disk with an arrow. Experience shows that the best rotating speed is around 2000 rpm. The Sears Craftsman 6 Grinder (item # 21154) is recommended. Higher speeds lead to a reduction in quality of the cutting edge and are not recommended. There is almost no chance of burning the tool. With new or very worn tools, it is sometimes necessary to pre-grind on a grinding wheel or belt.

First, apply the sharpening paste by pressing it on to the running sharpening disk. The film of paste should be thin but evenly spread on the disk surface. For new disks, it is recommended that you apply sharpening paste more heavily until the surface is impregnated and ready for normal use. Generally, one application of sharpening paste is sufficient for each sharpening cycle.

"...So how does a 'thermal reactive' sharpener work? The Koch folks tell me the secret lies in the natural-fiber wheels and sharpening paste. Apply the paste to the wheel, then the tool to the wheel, and the wheel quickly heats to 240 degrees Fahrenheit (115 degrees Celsius). At this temperature the paste liquifies. A few seconds later, the tool is sharp and surprisingly cool. While I don't understand all the physics behind the process, I do know that it works.
"...With the Koch sharpener, I found I could get a mirror-like, razor-sharp edge in just seconds. And I noticed that I never had to remove burrs from the backs of my carving tools, the burrs were automatically removed when sharpening the bevel. This saved me a tremendous amount of time, especially when sharpening small veiners."




Tested by Harley Refsal,
WOOD magazine carving consultant

[Jim Koepke]

For those interested, this article came out a few weeks ago and fits in with the thread.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/the-unicorn-sharpening-meathod/

Interesting comment in the article:


several members have been developing and refining a sharpening technique that David Weaver, the originator, has since nicknamed “Unicorning"

David isn't the originator and my understanding is David said one of the reasons for the Unicorn name is so it wouldn't be called the "Weaver Trick."

If you look in Fine Woodworking (#39) from 1983 you will find it was an old method before many of us were born:

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In the article Charles Riordan explains his preference for the hard felt wheel being due to the softer buffing wheel rounding the edge. With a hard wheel the secondary bevel is more flat and can be touched up on a strop before regrinding.

What was old is new again…

jtk

[Charles Guest]

Carving is a large part of my business and I know many quality carvers. We do not use buffers for our tools. We want a precision edge because we ride the tools on the bevels and on the backs. When someone talks about buffing a carving tool, they're probably not much of a carver.

Sculptors are somewhat different. They are not so precision oriented and many do work from a buffed edge.

Thanks for the laugh.

Here's a fellow who uses a buffer (the German Koch machine). Skip to around the 36:30 mark in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qls5oB76F2w

Here's his portfolio:

https://grabovetskiy.com/portfolio/

Looks pretty precise and lifelike to me, if not Grinling Gibbons level world class carving.

[Rafael Herrera]

I believe the real contribution made was the determination that an edge treated with this method will have a more durable edge. The discovery that an inexpensive chisel or plane iron will perform as well as or even outperform a fancy alloy steel. I don't think claiming to have discovered that a rotating abrasive wheel can be used to sharpen steel is even something anyone can make.

[Charles Guest]

Don't doubt it for a moment.

[Curt Putnam]

If one is so inclined:

Koch Sharpening System. Not sure about its current availability.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/koch-sharpener-ht2000

From the late Nora Hall's website:

The Koch Sharpening System includes: 2 wheels and 1 paste. The two wheels or disks are manufactured using selected natural fibre and a specially developed process developed for the wheels. This has been patented. One wheel will be used for flat tools, and the second wheel for curved tools. For very wide tools, mount two wheels side-by-side.

During the sharpening action, both disks turn in a direction away from the body. The prescribed rotating direction is marked on each disk with an arrow. Experience shows that the best rotating speed is around 2000 rpm. The Sears Craftsman 6 Grinder (item # 21154) is recommended. Higher speeds lead to a reduction in quality of the cutting edge and are not recommended. There is almost no chance of burning the tool. With new or very worn tools, it is sometimes necessary to pre-grind on a grinding wheel or belt.

First, apply the sharpening paste by pressing it on to the running sharpening disk. The film of paste should be thin but evenly spread on the disk surface. For new disks, it is recommended that you apply sharpening paste more heavily until the surface is impregnated and ready for normal use. Generally, one application of sharpening paste is sufficient for each sharpening cycle.

"...So how does a 'thermal reactive' sharpener work? The Koch folks tell me the secret lies in the natural-fiber wheels and sharpening paste. Apply the paste to the wheel, then the tool to the wheel, and the wheel quickly heats to 240 degrees Fahrenheit (115 degrees Celsius). At this temperature the paste liquifies. A few seconds later, the tool is sharp and surprisingly cool. While I don't understand all the physics behind the process, I do know that it works.
"...With the Koch sharpener, I found I could get a mirror-like, razor-sharp edge in just seconds. And I noticed that I never had to remove burrs from the backs of my carving tools, the burrs were automatically removed when sharpening the bevel. This saved me a tremendous amount of time, especially when sharpening small veiners."




Tested by Harley Refsal,
WOOD magazine carving consultant





After watching a number of the videos that turned up on a search, I've come to the conclusion that the system will preform well for those with the skill to hold aprecise angle at the wheel but not so well for with less skill or experience. Frim what I can see from the knide sharpening video, the bevel angle is entirely hand maintained. As we know, a difference of 2 degrees makes a huge difference. I know from my attempts to hand hold a constant angle over a powered leather strop that I need mechanical assistance. I'm also thinking that determining the angle is easier on a flat belt than on a circular wheel.

With all that said, I cheerfully admit that my assessment may be erroneous and/or that I missed someething critical. I'd appreciate a correction of my thinking if warranted. Regardless, thank you for posting the information about the Koch System.

[Charles Guest]

After watching a number of the videos that turned up on a search, I've come to the conclusion that the system will preform well for those with the skill to hold aprecise angle at the wheel but not so well for with less skill or experience. Frim what I can see from the knide sharpening video, the bevel angle is entirely hand maintained. As we know, a difference of 2 degrees makes a huge difference. I know from my attempts to hand hold a constant angle over a powered leather strop that I need mechanical assistance. I'm also thinking that determining the angle is easier on a flat belt than on a circular wheel.

With all that said, I cheerfully admit that my assessment may be erroneous and/or that I missed someething critical. I'd appreciate a correction of my thinking if warranted. Regardless, thank you for posting the information about the Koch System.


A beautiful description of woodworking, generally.

[John C Cox]

I look at it as a fairly efficient way to improve the edge stability when using jigged sharpening methods.

Free hand sharpening benefits from the small amount of natural monkey motion in the human body. It produces slight rounding in both the bevel and back, which increases edge life tremendously, unless you aren't good at it, and you end up chasing angles higher and making big roundy-bevels and humped backs which won't register worth a darned.

I tried the Unicorn thing on several quality vintage and modern mid-price chisels and all of them benefitted from a much longer edge stability. It didn't make them sharper than I can get them, what it did is made them far more resistant to chipping out/rolling edges. It didn't help the remaining Aldi or Harbor Freight chisels I had laying around... They are still trash and I binned the ones that I hadn't already jettisoned.

[steven c newman]

Hmmm..really?
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