DIY pool table advice?

[Andy Curtis]

Hey guys, I'm new here!

I plan to reorganize my garage and install a pool table.
I'd like to make a DIY one, huh. So, any advice is appreciated.
I looked up some ideas on Pinterest here (https://www.pinterest.com.au/supercapitan7/diy-pool-table/)
and read some "beginner" articles like this https://justcraftingaround.com/diy-pool-table/ and this http://recroompick.com/how-to-level-pool-table/
still got many questions about the materials and sizes.

I found this old thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196251-Pool-Table-anyone but it's not that helpful, tbh.

I've only played in bars, and I'm not a professional player. Neither a woodworker. Still, I'd like to at least try.

So, waiting for your feedback. Maybe someone had such an experience?

[Timothy McMahon]

I have not built a pool table, but I have thought of the idea once. You do not specify the sizes you are considering or the material. Most pool tables range from 7ft to 9ft and have a slate playing surface. The 9ft tables seem to be more popular with better players and seem to be typical size used in tournaments. The 7ft seem to be more popular size found in bars. If your space is limited, then you may be forced into a smaller size. There are charts available online that show the minimal room dimensions for various sizes with various cue lengths. The 3 piece slate tops are considered the best since the pieces are smaller and can be made to tighter tolerances compared to a larger 1 piece slate. Although there would be extra work in set up to ensure the pieces fit together and are exactly planar to each other.

Either way, the dimensions of the playing surface with have to be very precise for optimal playability. This includes the rail lengths, the cushion geometry, and the pocket geometry. There are official standards documents available online that document these dimensions and tolerances. Even so, a search of billiards forums will provide insight that suggests small angle differences of rails and the depth of the pocket will greatly affect the playability. Try searching for Olhausen pocket rattle.

Once you have developed a plan for the playing surface, you will need the framing to support it. If you go with a slate surface, keep in mind the slate can weigh a total of 600lbs for a full size table. You will need to ensure you have framing sufficiently strong to support this weight along with additional weight if a player is leaning on the table to reach a shot. If you choose an MDF surface, it will be lighter, but will likely not be as durable nor as stable. A 6ft MDF table I had as a kid was frustrating to play on due to the inconsistency and was impossible to get level accross the entire surface. Part of this may have been due to inadequate framing and support. Just be aware of the potential issues and plan accordingly and you may be fine.

If you are looking to really develop your game, it would likely be much cheaper and less frustrating to buy a used table that is in good condition. Due to the low value of used pool tables and excessive weight, it is not entirely unheard of for people to give them away to anyone who is willing to move it out. Time spent reading billiard forums in the technician sections will provide some great information as to what you should look for, what to avoid, along with any common issues, repairs, and adjustments.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Watch Craig's List for pool tables.
You can buy a complete table then use it for parts to build one.

There's one now near me that the seller is asking $495 for and the ad says - "It has to go by the end of the month since the house is sold".

Chances are, the closer to the 30th it gets, the less they will actually take for it.

My wife and I buy houses and fix them up as rentals. We look at hundreds, if not thousands of houses.
If I had a dollar for every pool table and/or piano that a seller is "generously including" in the sale....

[Brian Runau]

Played a lot of pool over the years and owned a couple tables. Biggest you can fit in your space up to full regulation size. Thickest slate recommended for a truly level surface with a structure to support it. I would visit a pool table shop and crawl underneath a cheap one and an expensive one. Tell them you need to take pictures of the structure to help you make up your mind on spending more. A little white lie.

Refurbishing a good old used one is also a great option.

Brian

Brian

[Ole Anderson]

Bought a one piece slate eight footer 40 years ago. Recently rebuilt it salvaging only some of the supports and the slate. New legs, apron, bumpers, pockets and beefed up supports. I used the book "Arts and Crafts Mission Pool Table" from Pooltableplans.com as a guide. I am tight on one side and have to use a sawed off cue for anything near the bumper on that side.

[roger wiegand]

I helped rebuild one once. Given the cost of materials-- slate for the top, bumpers, wool felt, not to mention the wood, I'd not do this if your objective is to save money. You won't vs buying a used table in excellent condition. If your objectives are different (so many of the ones out there are hideous, so I can see that!) then I'd still strongly consider starting with a used table as a source of parts.

[Andrew Hughes]

I agree with Roger making your pool table is right up there with making you own plywood.

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah, It won’t be easy. But you will be the only one who knows how to “read the greens” !

[Mel Fulks]

Of course all the tables of long ago were likely just made by a local carpenters. I doubt they were all shipped from England. And I doubt many had slate tables. When
Benjamin Latrobe was in this country he drew at least one game in progress and it’s in his reprinted journals of 1790s With micro lam and cheap
mdf ,I could make a flat table. Many of us own good straight edges.

[Bill Bukovec]

I thought Fine Woodworking did an article on making your own pool table.

[Dan Schocke]

The Fine Woodworking article on building a pool table is a great source... March 1989 issue, if you can believe the date listed in the reprint book that I have. There are a few dimensions that are critical... playing surface height, rail height (really the peak of the cushion), rail length, and the angles at the end of the rails. Pretty much everything else you can build as you like as long as it will take the weight. The article also has some great tips for felting the table and rails.

I had fun building my pool table, but the previous responses are 100% correct on cost. You'll be way ahead if you can salvage slate and pocket irons from a used table. I don't remember being offended by the cost of the cushions, but that was more than 20 years ago. Probably the most "fun" thing I did was to use bottle caps from our favorite beers (embedded in epoxy) to serve as the sights/diamonds... people notice those more than anything else.

--Dan