oak furniture outdoor proof, possible?

[Forrest Gon]

I am planning to build a patio set, sofa + table, as for material, teak would be nice, but the price is really insane now, about $50 BF.

So here is the question, if I go with oak (about $5 BF, ten time less than teak), and finish it with outdoor proof coating, will that be a problem?

I built a pool side chest last year using cedar, and the mold is out of control after about 4 months.

and a side question, is there any good place I can get nice outdoor cushions?

Thanks

[Mel Fulks]

White oak will be fine. Not red oak.

[Brian Tymchak]

I don't know of any truly "outdoor proof" finish for wood except maybe a ceramic-based paint. There are some very good exterior finishes such as Epiphanes Marine varnish but they will break down after a few years without proper maintenance. Keeping the piece covered when not in use is also recommended to minimize weather and UV exposure.

White Oak with proper finish and maintenance will work. I would seal end grain with an epoxy.

[Jim Becker]

WHite oak for sure; never red oak as has been mentioned. Use a penetrating, non-film finish so you can easily renew it over time. You'll have horrible staining if moisture gets under a film finish. And also do not expect the wood to stay "fresh cut" looking. It will turn grey naturally from UV, etc., even if your finish has UV inhibitors.

[Bill Dufour]

Climate? never any mold here in summer.
Bill D.

[Bill Dufour]

The Mojave desert has cooled off it was 128F last week. Cool but humid for this time of year 11%rh.
Bill D

[Larry Edgerton]

White oak will be fine. Not red oak.


What Mel said............

[ed morini]

I agree that white oak will be fine outdoors and for longer finish life rift sawn if available. For finishing there are two approaches:

1. Top coated with marine varnish (first coat gloss for hardness subsequent coats can be matte or semi gloss) I would recommend Epifanes or McCloskey's Spar. This not for an easy finish schedule. Takes a good 5-7 coats of finish, but allows for a good UV protective coat. This may require a light sanding every other year to renew but not a complete stripping unless the finish has peeled to the wood. I've used this system for years and stained mahogany has held up for years without serious fading.
2. Waterlox a modified true tung oil, marine grade. This is a brush/rag application type finish that works very well. Their site https://www.waterlox.com/products Marine offers a comprehensive guide to finishing. I've used this also and have had great results.
The biggest problems in these outdoor cases is UV and wood movement and I've found wood movement to be the bigger problem. Slash cut looks great but is more likely to move. White oak being diffuse porous doesn't take up end grain moisture that well but does benefit from end grain sealing (thinned epoxy). Rift moves considerable less.
A an aside, here in New England red oak was used in bent frame construction for lobster boats to some extent. Holes were bored in to the tops of the frame and filled with a linseed turpentine mix. A daily pour routine allowed the preservative to saturate the frame top to keel. That's how pour red(ring porous) is compared to white (diffuse porous)

Ed

[Frank Pratt]

No such thing as outdoor proof wood finish. White oak is a very good choice. You basically have 3 choices:
- no finish at all & let it age gracefully.

- use a non-film forming finish & do a quick & easy reapplication it every year or 2.

- use a film forming finish, or combination of finishes, which will look good for at least a couple of years. But refinishing will involve completely stripping the old finish off & applying new. Lots of work. As mentioned above, any cracks that allow moisture to get under the finish will result in ugly staining & peeling.

[Alex Zeller]

You may want to look into hardwood decking. Ipe is a little heavy but if the furniture is going to be in a place where high winds could move it heavy could be a plus. Some of the other imported hardwoods weigh the same as oak and would not need finishing as long as you don't mind them turning gray. They will last longer than oak. Pricewise they may be similar. Not sure where you are located so finding a place that has or can order them could be an issue. You can buy the wood on-line from places like Advantage lumber.

[David Utterback]

You might also use nylon bumpers on the ground contact surfaces to limit moisture absorption.

[Mike King]

https://youtu.be/kD9WstyGg-s

[Stan Calow]

Just my experiences in a hot summer/cold winter environment. I've made a few outdoor pieces of white oak, and while they're sturdy and have held up well, they've all turned charcoal gray after time. I tired outdoor oil finishes (Cabot, Penefin) spar varnish etc.: now I just let it go. My opinion is that all outdoor finishes are temporary, and the best you can do is use deck/fence finishes, which will still need refreshing regularly.

[George Yetka]

For table and chairs I would buy a cast iron set. My parents have a great one with a lazy-susan. I would remove that and buy the few board feet of ipe/teak/etc make it your own. Going this route leaves you money for other projects and you still have something thats yours.
Not that building it wouldn't be a fun project.

I have used helmsman on cedar outdoors(ice chest mostly lives in the garage though) but it looks brand new still after 5 years. I did put about 6 coats on the end grain at feet.

[Alan Kalker]

The best, most durable outdoor finish I’ve used is Epifanes. I’ve used it on cedar fences here in Wisconsin and it has stayed good looking through multiple harsh winters. It is however a pain to use. It requires six coats which takes about 24 hours each to dry. It is also costly. Anything of the other outdoor finishes I have tried of all looked lousy in one or two seasons.

[Mike King]

The best, most durable outdoor finish I’ve used is Epifanes. I’ve used it on cedar fences here in Wisconsin and it has stayed good looking through multiple harsh winters. It is however a pain to use. It requires six coats which takes about 24 hours each to dry. It is also costly. Anything of the other outdoor finishes I have tried of all looked lousy in one or two seasons.
Epifanes is the solution that worked best in the wood whisperer video I linked to above.