What's your favorite 10" or 12" combination blade?

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'll be adding a good combination blade to my Ridgid TS 3660 contractor's saw pretty soon & I'd like to get an idea of what everybody's favorite one is.

My older combo blades are beginning to show their age & I'll probably send them off to get sharpened.

While they are out, I'd like to have a good blade to work with.

[Tom Bain]

Ridge Carbide TS2000 “super blade”

[Jim Becker]

Forrest WW-II. For 12", I used the 48T version. For 10", I used the 40T version.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Forrest WW-II. For 12", I used the 48T version. For 10", I used the 40T version.

Same here.

[lowell holmes]

Same here.

And I agree,

[Dave Sweeney]

I've been using Ridge Carbide TS2000 blades happily for many years. Highly recommend them. My first table saw was a Ridgid TS3612 and I ran the full kerf version of the Ridge Carbide TS2000 the whole time I owned it without any issues.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use the Forrest WWII too. But I only have a 10" saw.

[Clifford McGuire]

I use the Forrest WWII too. But I only have a 10" saw.

Same. I've had two of them for over 20 years. I send them back to Forrest for a resharpening every 3 or 4 years. By having the second, I'm not shut down while it is being sharpened.

It's just one of those things I don't have to think about.

[Charlie Jones]

Freud Fusion. Sharp smoth and long lasting. They are less expensive than some of the others.

[Dave Cav]

12" Tenryu gold medal.

[Alex Zeller]

I have a CMT 10" 50 tooth ATB blade that's not a thin kerf nor a thick kerf (IMO). I got it for my DeWalt jobsite saw which I didn't think would have the power for a full kerf but I also didn't like the idea of a thin kerf either. I think it's .1" thick. Being on that saw it's done everything from ripping to cutting plywood. I now use it on my PM66 and I'm very impressed with it. You can feel a slight resistance when ripping. Some of that is probably the blade starting to dull but I think it's more due to the high tooth count. But it doesn't burn the wood while ripping and the crosscuts are great. My plan is to replace it with a WWII 48t 10" blade when I get ready to send the CMT out to get sharpened but that still seems a ways off.

[Tom M King]

Whatever the next sharp one is on the stack. I've bought so many different ones over the years, to try, when there was a deal, or when I needed one. The come back from the sharpener, and go on the holder, which separates them.

I'm sure I fully intended to compare different ones, but never got around to it.

A sharp one works fine.

[Randy Heinemann]

Freud Fusion blades are great. However, I have used the Sawstop blade that came with my saw since I bought it. The Sawstop blades are less expensive than Freuds' and I don't find a significant improvement with the Freud blades over the Sawstop blades. I'm sure there will be disagreement concerning this, but the results I get with the Sawstop blade are great. There are a usually a couple of minor saw marks when ripping which are removed by one pass over the jointer taking off less than 1/32" but, since I would never glue up or use a board without running it over the jointer, the result is really no worse than I get with almost any other blade. Given the cost of Forrest and other premium blades, I'll confess I have never tried them but, with the results I gottene from Freud and the Sawstop blade, I have never felt the need to spend at least twice as much money on one of the premium blades.

[Jim Dwight]

I have and like my thin kerf Freud Fusion but occasionally it seems to aggrevate the grain and the cut is rough. Not sure what is happening or even that a different blade would be different. But I like it. My all time favorite is a 50 tooth with 40 ATB and 10 rakers with a flat top. I have a thin kerf Freud that will go on if I get aggrevated with the fusion. I used a full kerf Infinity version of this blade on a dresser recently and was pleasantly surprised (their ripping blade was a big disappointment). I like to use thin kerf blades on my 1.75hp PCS but in a lot of wood that isn't over 1.5 inches thick it does fine with a full kerf. Having the thin kerf on just avoids having to change out if I want to cut something thick. I have used CMT and DeWalt blades with the 50 tooth configuration I like and they work like the Infinity or Freud versions I currently have - well

I have not used a Forest blade and probably never will. I had Ridge Carbide resharpen a Freud and it came back better than new. If I wanted to spend this much on a blade I would buy a Ridge. But realistically I see no need for anything "better" than a Freud.

[Mel Fulks]

Freud is good , and not cheap. So you are in “high end”... POPULAR saws are high quality,low price. Our sharpener doesn’t shill for any brand ,he says they are good. And they are good.

[Mike Kees]

Hate to admit this but my WW2 ended up on my jobsite Delta contractor saw that rides in my tool trailer . Great blade and I have been using it mostly on Cedar for the last two years doing high end decks and exterior finish work. I am with Tom King in that I have a stack of 10'' blades and they are all mid to upper end quality so whichever one is sharp is the" Best".

[Doug Colombo]

Forrest WW-II. For 12", I used the 48T version. For 10", I used the 40T version.

+1 for the Forrest WW-II for both

[Bruce Wrenn]

Best bang for the buck is Delta 7657 from Cripe distributing. Own three WWII's (it's a long story,) but the 7657 stays on the saw most of the time.

[Tom Bain]

I will add that I very much prefer an ATB+Raker tooth configuration in a combo blade (as opposed to just the ATB), regardless of which one you choose. It allows for quick flat bottomed grooves without having to switch blades.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Best bang for the buck is Delta 7657 from Cripe distributing. Own three WWII's (it's a long story,) but the 7657 stays on the saw most of the time.Get outta town!!!!
I had to look that one up!

That might very well be the deal of all time.
It even gets the "Scott Spencer" seal of approval!
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253972-The-Best-10-quot-Combination-Blade


$20 for a carbide combo blade? The current price of the WWII is $149. I could buy 7 of those for that price & toss them when they get dull.

Thank you for that. I will pick one up at that price just to try it out.

[Frank Pratt]

Freud Premier Fusion is very good.

[Rod Sheridan]

FS Tools 40 tooth combination blade.....Rod

[Peter Kelly]

Get outta town!!!!
I had to look that one up!

That might very well be the deal of all time.
It even gets the "Scott Spencer" seal of approval!
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253972-The-Best-10-quot-Combination-Blade


$20 for a carbide combo blade? The current price of the WWII is $149. I could buy 7 of those for that price & toss them when they get dull.

Thank you for that. I will pick one up at that price just to try it out.$22 for a USA made 10x80 seems pretty good too. Some smokin' deals on that site.

[Jim May]

https://gdptooling.com/product/glueline-rip-blades-series-2000g/
The glue line rip blades are the best . (In my opinion)

[Dave Sabo]

My “favorite” is also freud fusion. I’ve got thin and reg. kerf versions.

They aren’t the “best” but given their price (and I paid waaaay less than retail ) they are my favorites.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Get outta town!!!!
I had to look that one up!

That might very well be the deal of all time.
It even gets the "Scott Spencer" seal of approval!
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253972-The-Best-10-quot-Combination-Blade


$20 for a carbide combo blade? The current price of the WWII is $149. I could buy 7 of those for that price & toss them when they get dull.

Thank you for that. I will pick one up at that price just to try it out.

Buy two and the freight is almost the same, which brings down price per blade. I've got several in both the Delta and DeWalt badges. Same blade, just different badge.