Old Bailey Plane Iron with Unusual Corrosion

[James Spangler]

I have a question about corrosion on plane irons, and I hope some folks in this forum can help me understand the unusual corrosion pattern I’m seeing on this cutter, (I know nothing about metallurgy, so maybe it’s not so unusual).

This particular iron is from a Bailey No. 4 plane that I’m in the process of restoring and it’s a Type 9, so its age goes back to approximately 1901 to 1904.
When I first acquired this plane, there was a thin layer of rust over everything (see photo) and a few spots where corrosion resulted in some pitting. I was rather lucky with the iron, I think, because even though the upper 2/3 of it had some corrosion, the business end – at least on the cutting side – had no corrosion. That may have been because that was a tightly-packed layer of wood shavings and dust around the bottom of the frog and sandwiched between the iron and chip breaker which protected it somewhat.

So, as I cleaned up the iron with a wire wheel and sandpaper, I uncovered a corrosion pattern on the bevel side that I had seen before on a couple of old blades that I had previously restored. Near the bevel was a small patch of pitting and surrounding it are tiny fissures or cracks in the surface that don’t seem to go very deep. I’ve included a photo of this.

Since I have seen this before on a couple of other old irons I’m just wondering if anyone else has noticed this and can offer some insight. Can anyone explain how this pattern occurs? Is this type of corrosion perhaps peculiar to hardened steel? Or perhaps related to the age of the steel or the tempering process used back then?
Note that the opposite side which had no pitting is fine – I’ve included a photo of that side after I’ve flattened it.

Since this corrosion is only on the bevel side, it doesn’t hamper the ability to sharpen and use this iron, but from an aesthetic aspect I’m concerned that the iron looks somewhat flawed.
Thoughts?

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[Rafael Herrera]

In some cases these irons are laminated, so only the face side is steel, the bevel side is not tool steel and its corrosion may be more pronounced. In any case, if the iron holds up in use, there's nothing to be concerned about.

[steven c newman]

Someone left some wet shavings in there....caught between the iron and the face of the frog. Flatten THAT face the same as you would the back of the iron...then put the plane to work.

Ever open up a Rusty & Krusty Plane....and see the area under the iron packed with....crud? Imagine IF those shavings were to get a little damp, while the plane is sitting on that shelf in the barn ....usually from someone advancing the frog forward, in the theory that by closing up the mouth opening, the plane would magically work better. The gap behind the now chattering iron is filling up with shavings...until it is so full, it stops chattering.

Corrosion Pattern is from those shavings being stuck in there, between the frog and the iron.

[Scott Winners]

I have not seen that pattern before, but I suspect Rafael and Steven are correct.

As an end user restoring my own planes I would run the bevel side with the corrosion pattern on a stone around 200 grit or so to see how deep that stuff really goes and maybe take that entire side of the iron up to 400-600 grit to be sure to would sit flat on the frog, and put it to work.

The last two planes I have seen of yours in the for sale section have been restored to higher standards than mine. You might could stone all the corrosion off and buff that iron side up to infinity grit, but I think you will find some pitting about a third of the way between the current edge and the slot, that won't be even a potential theoretical problem until that iron is sharpened 2,364 more times. Once the rest of the iron is flat, you might could get in there with a wire wheel on a dremel to clear out the last of it down to bare metal and oil it up real good. Or you could look for a correct vintage flawless iron. Or you could get a replacement iron from Hock or Lee Valley and probably have to open up the mouth a little bit to let the new thicker iron through.

Whatever you choose, remember to double check the chip breaker and cap iron fit - after you are done working on the iron.

I would just stone it at 200-300 grit, maybe clean up the pits with a wire wheel on a dremel, and expect that iron to last longer than I will.

[James Spangler]

Thank you for the comments, guys.
The bevel side does appear to sit flat against the frog, so at this point it just doesn't seem worth the effort to grind off this corrosion on the bevel side. The iron took a nice sharp edge and I think it's prudent to quit while I'm ahead.

Yes, I've encountered many of the Stanley laminated blades and this is not one of them. I looked up my resource on this (here (https://galootopia.com/old_tools/planes/stanley-laminated-blades-swedish-iron/)), and found that they started using the laminated blades around 1909, several years after this plane was manufactured.

[lowell holmes]

I suggest you visit this link.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E211US739G0&p=stanley+replacement+hand+plane+irons

[steven c newman]

Nothing wrong with the iron the OP has now.....

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Nothing wrong with the iron the OP has now.....

I am with Steve on this one both for the cause and usable (until I proved otherwise).

[Charles Guest]

I think a cat may have pissed on it -- in the area you mentioned. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.

[Mark Rainey]

I think a cat may have pissed on it -- in the area you mentioned. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.

My money is on Charles' deduction. ;)

[steven c newman]

Not THAT unusual of markings...
459017
2" iron, clipped box Stanley Logo....stamped for the 2nd Quarter of 1941.....241

[lowell holmes]

A wire wheel in a bench grinder will de-rust the irons to almost new