Table Saw Sleds - comparison

[Vince Shriver]

I will be purchasing a commercial table saw sled, specifically 1) The Dubby or 2) Rockler's version. I would greatly appreciate the opinions (pros & cons) from folks who have use either one or both. Price or DIY not a consideration. Thank you​, Vince

[Matthew Hills]

What are you trying to get from the sled?

My most important sled is a homemade sled for 90deg crosscuts, where there is value in fence on both sides of the cut (depending on how I want to control crosscut lengths) and the zero-clearance kerfs in the base and back fence for cleaner cuts.

Getting the sled dialed in to run straight in your miter slots without slop is very important. I prefer the 2-runner sleds for this.

For 45 miters, I'd recommend a homemade sled again (although I need to remake mine as I had some error in the fence not being vertical enough)

I can see one of these sleds if you're looking to do arbitrary miters; I use an incra miter gauge for that type of cut.

Matt

[Vince Shriver]

I'd like to get some feedback on the Dubby & Rockler T/S-sleds from folks that've used them.

[lowell holmes]

I made one with plywood that had runners on the saw slots. I had a 1x4 back on it laid flat that allowed boards to be cut precisely.

[Ed Mitchell]

I used a Dubby for two years at Palomar College. That's where I learned to use a tablesaw and a sled, so I'm probably biased. Great sled, love the micro-adjust for extremely precise cuts, and that's where the rockler x-cut sled falls short, at least the rockler x-cut sled that I've used. The t-track+ flip-downs thing rockler has is fine, I just think it's not as solid as the dubby's...the rockler sled I used had a tiny bit of slop in the t-track flip-downs, whereas the 10 year-old dubby I used had no play in it, after thousands of students and years of abuse. The micro-adjust is well-done, easy to use and effective on the dubby. It's trivial to make an adjustment of a thou or so; I was splitting pencil lines my first session with it as a beginner on the table saw.

I've just never found flip-downs to be as stable as in-line solutions like that on the dubby, but if you got a rockler sled that had no slop in the flip-downs, I'd say it'd probably be every bit as good as a dubby.

[Vince Shriver]

Thanks, Ed.

[Charlie Jones]

I use a homemade sled for 90 degree cross cuts. If an angle is needed I reach for the Dubby. It is extremely accurate. It has stops with micro adjusters that work for long stock. It is a simple accurate and wonderful tool.

[Johnny Barr]

I will be purchasing a commercial table saw sled, specifically 1) The Dubby or 2) Rockler's version. I would greatly appreciate the opinions (pros & cons) from folks who have use either one or both. Price or DIY not a consideration. Thank you​, Vince


Don't exclude Incra's miter express. I went through 3 sleds, home made (ended up too bulky) , Rockler then Incra. In terms of accuracy its better than the Rockler with things like micro adjusting flip stop etc The Rockler is good and definitely adequate but not in the same league.

Yes I know you can make it, as I did, but sometimes people don't have the time or inclination and would rather buy it. I understand where you're coming from.

[Rick Potter]

Personally, with no price limitation, I would buy the original (Dubby) rather than the knock off. Rarely hear any complaints about it. Mine is well made, and came with great instructions.

Check the You Tube Dubby vids.

[fred woltersdorf]

I bought a Dubby years ago at a WWing show, I had a minor problem that I can't remember what it was but a phone call to the Co. took care of it right away, it's a great sled.

[Earl McLain]

Don't exclude Incra's miter express. I went through 3 sleds, home made (ended up too bulky) , Rockler then Incra. In terms of accuracy its better than the Rockler with things like micro adjusting flip stop etc The Rockler is good and definitely adequate but not in the same league.

Yes I know you can make it, as I did, but sometimes people don't have the time or inclination and would rather buy it. I understand where you're coming from.

I've spent a few years trying to decide between the Miter Express and the Miter 5000. I've used the Dubby--and it's very good. But--my Incra stuff has been absolutely top-notch.
earl

[William Hodge]

I will be purchasing a commercial table saw sled, specifically 1) The Dubby or 2) Rockler's version. I would greatly appreciate the opinions (pros & cons) from folks who have use either one or both. Price or DIY not a consideration. Thank you​, Vince

Given your original question, I'm not going to suggest want you suggested people to not suggest, although my suggestion would fall into the category of unwanted suggestions. I don't own either sled, but it's interesting to see what others are doing, and copy it.

How does one replace that block of wood on the blade end of the Dubby fence? It looks like a piece of 8/4 cut with a 3/8" thick leg, precision aligned to match up with the face of the fence.

[John Jardin]

Vince,
Over 20 years ago I purchased the Dubby sled and to this day I have proclaimed to all that it was the best woodworking purchase that I ever made,
Since then, I have made several sleds for different reasons but I always seem to go back to the Dubby when the need occurs.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Given your original question, I'm not going to suggest want you suggested people to not suggest, although my suggestion would fall into the category of unwanted suggestions. I don't own either sled, but it's interesting to see what others are doing, and copy it.

How does one replace that block of wood on the blade end of the Dubby fence? It looks like a piece of 8/4 cut with a 3/8" thick leg, precision aligned to match up with the face of the fence.

Only regret about buying a Dubby, is I waited too long to purchase. Watching The American Woodworker, with Scott Phillips, he uses a Dubby that is so old that it has the wooden fence. The end block can be laminated up. I have done this, and make several at the time. Easier to have on hand than to have to stop project and make another. Jerry Cole came up with the idea for the Dubby, and IMHO, deserves to be compensated for it.

[Robert Hayward]

How does one replace that block of wood on the blade end of the Dubby fence? It looks like a piece of 8/4 cut with a 3/8" thick leg, precision aligned to match up with the face of the fence.

Agreeing with Bruce, it is a minor project to make new/extra blocks for the end of a Dubby fence. I also make bunches of them ahead of need. Mill the wood to proper thickness, cut to size and glue. I also set up a jig on the drill press to space the holes accurately and drill them quickly. I usually drill four holes so I can extend the block more than with two holes. Also saved the original factory block for accurate sizing of new blocks. They are easy enough to make I am wasteful with them. If the one on the Dubby gets a few out of normal position cuts I toss it and put a new one on.

[John Jardin]

To Robert Haywood, I'm in Valrico and Saturday mornings I mentor 3 fellow woodworkers with the objective of making pieces for the FL state fair. This year 2 of them entered and both won ribbons.
We welcome visitors and extend an invitation for you or others to visit. jsjardin@verizon.net
John Jardin

[Bob Hinden]

Not an answer to the original question, but I found this video for making a mini precision cross-cut sled jig for table saws:

https://youtu.be/I2ZnOnJZ3vE

I liked that it only had two runners and a back support.

[Christopher Glanton]

I've spent a few years trying to decide between the Miter Express and the Miter 5000. I've used the Dubby--and it's very good. But--my Incra stuff has been absolutely top-notch.
earl


I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

Thanks!
Chris

[Vince Shriver]

I appreciate the knowledgeable input from everyone.

[richard poitras]

I have a Incra Miter Express and like it....

[Alan Lightstone]

Years ago I bought a Woodhaven crosscut sled. It's a behemoth (3/4" MDF, and large). It weighs so much, I had a overhead hoist installed and it lives hanging from the ceiling by the hoist. No way I can lift it on and off the tablesaw anymore.

I don't believe they make it any more. And I would definitely go for a lighter one if/when I replace it. It was nice as it had aluminum extruded fences on front and back, so there were many hold-down and stop block positions that you could use, although never close enough to the blade to hold small pieces, so I built some smaller sleds for that.

If I build one to replace it, I'll likely take off the extruded fences and use them. I really thought they were a nice feature on a crosscut sled.

[ChrisA Edwards]

So those of you with the Dubby, as there are not positive stops for anything other than 90 degrees, when you are doing miter cuts, say 45 degrees, just aligning the fence to a line, on the Dubby, how much trial an error do you need to go through, positioning the fence, so you get a perfect fit? Or is the reference line far enough away from the fence pivot point, that the margin of error, at the cut, is extremely negligible?

I have an Incra 1000HD that I use currently for mitered cuts, that gives me acceptable results without me having to fine adjust.

I've come close to buying the Dubby several times, but figured I'd need to make some templates, of varying degrees, 30, 45, 22.5, etc. that I could reference off the cut edge to help set the Dubby fence accurately.

Am I over thinking this?

[Wes Grass]

I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

Thanks!
Chris


I don't have one, but I'd guess there are screws attaching the black plate to the main base? Maybe pull the miter gauge portion off and see if they're loose.

[Alan Schwabacher]

Or is the reference line far enough away from the fence pivot point, that the margin of error, at the cut, is extremely negligible?

That's it exactly: the distance of the scale from the pivot makes it very precise and repeatable. As long as you accurately control the length and that sides are straight, the angle you read will lead to tight fits.

[Robert Hayward]

So those of you with the Dubby, as there are not positive stops for anything other than 90 degrees, when you are doing miter cuts, say 45 degrees, just aligning the fence to a line,
Am I over thinking this?

The only positive stop is 90 on the Dubby. I make menatal note of the position of the fence on the angle gauge line while at 90. Then use the same position on the line when setting the fence at another angle. I also use an Incra Miter 1000 HD. The Incra is more precise for setting an angle, eliminates the human eye error. My Incra is just a miter gauge though while the Dubby is a sled. For my hobby and craft stuff the Dubby gets more use.

[Johnny Barr]

as there are not positive stops

That's exactly the reason I didn't buy the Dubby and bought the Miter express

[Bruce Wrenn]

Not an answer to the original question, but I found this video for making a mini precision cross-cut sled jig for table saws:

https://youtu.be/I2ZnOnJZ3vE

I liked that it only had two runners and a back support.I disagree with how he splits fence and then glues two halves on. When making fence, I route out for screw and adjustment block, glue face and back together, then cut groove for screw. Only one set of gluing and alignment to do.Instead of screw and block, I use a toilet bolt, or a bole with a square nut in groove.

[Randy Heinemann]

I own an Incra HD 1000 miter gauge/sled combo. I couldn't ask for anything more accurate and precise. However, depending on what it is you do in your shop, you could just as easily and for much less money, build your own. There are numerous YouTube videos and plans on the internet, including a number of them on Fine Woodworking's site (if you have access). Most of them will result in a sled which is accurate precise, and flexible in use, if the build is executed properly. It might be worth at least one attempt at building your own before buying a ready made one. If you have decided to buy, though, I'd say that my vote is for one of the Incra miter gauge/sled combos. Depending on your needs and wants, you might be satisfiedi with one of the lower priced Incra combos.

[Erich Elfeldt]

Check out the Incra 5000. It is actually on sale at Woodpeckers as I write this for $299.99. That is $90.00 off of their regular price.

[Charles Coolidge]

I just setup a brand new INcra 5000. With the lg black lock handle and the end fence clamp not fastened, there's about 1/16" play in the actual miter gauge part...the gauge and the black plate underneath it (1 and 1/2 degree adj.) all move together in this 1/16" slop. The fence will clamp down at both ends of this 1/16"...is this normal?

Thanks!
Chris

I'm assembling an Incra 5000 as I type this, there's zero play in mine. The three plates lock together, the miter gauge plate to the degree plate, the degree plate to the bottom plate which is fixed with 4 screws to the bottom of the sled. Zero play with the locking handle only snug.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have no play. There are eccentric screw adjustments to secure the miter bar (if that is the problem) so it doesn't move. There should be no movement on any other parts either but I'm not aware of the same type of adjustments. Without looking, I can't remember the exact locations, but, If you need additional assistances, I'll spend some time examining mine.

[Charles Coolidge]

I have no play. There are eccentric screw adjustments to secure the miter bar (if that is the problem) so it doesn't move. There should be no movement on any other parts either but I'm not aware of the same type of adjustments. Without looking, I can't remember the exact locations, but, If you need additional assistances, I'll spend some time examining mine.

There are no eccentric screws adjustments on the steel miter bar, it's a split washer expanded via a counter sunk head screw. I could have swore years ago (more than 10) that the right side table was locked with eccentric screws but now its just a wedged shaped nut that jams the sides of the aluminum miter bar apart where they weakened it by milling most of the material away. So the sides of the bar bulge out until it pinches the sides of the saw miter slot.

[Charles Coolidge]

Incra 5000 Sled Tip - GREASE the 5 white split washers and screws on the steel miter bar.

Issue - The split white washers on the steel miter bar are countersunk. The adjustment screw is also countersunk. Incra's theory is as you tighten the countersunk screw this spreads the split white washer out snugging the steel miter bar in the saw miter slot removing play. But there is so much friction between the bottom of the split washer and the steel miter bar as you tighten the adjustment screw it seizes. I watched a youtube video by a guy who was struggling with this. There's still a lot of slop in the miter slot but the split washer has seized.

So you put some muscle into it, the allen wrench is bending then BANG the washer breaks loos and expands. Ditto on that guys youtube video. Keep going with several more BANGS until you remove the play in the saw miter slot but its jumping in large moves so you are likely to overshoot. Try to loosen the thing to make a fine adjustment, not possible BANG it breaks loose and jumps in larger movements when loosening. Also the shockwave is not kind on the fingers. Last night I got it adjusted as best as I could but it was mediocre. Some of the 5 split washers were binding it didn't slide smoothly in my saw miter slot.

Fix - So today I removed all 5 of the white split washers and screws. Greased the bottom of the split washer and the countersunk area of the washer, also greased the screw countersunk shoulders. Not a lot, a little dab will do. Then set about adjusting it snug to the saw miter slot. WAY smoother. I was able to expand the 5 split washers slowly and evenly, a bit of back and forth and it was perfect. Slides smoothly front to back with no play and only a slight drag fit. Near the final adjustment I got some small 'ticks' so it's tight for sure but smooth getting there.

AND while I'm at it, check the screws on the black fixed washers which are supposed to be tightened at the factory. One of mine was completely loose and the screw was sticking up.