Scott Winners
05-26-2021, 12:52 AM
I picked up a Record 778 this weekend, unknown vintage. As near as I can tell it is factory fresh, it still had rotary grinder marks on the iron back and iron bevel, and there is enough blue paint in the little notch (pictured) that I can't actually deploy the knicker. The price was right, 50 American dollars for what appears to be nearly new in box old stock. One chip of paint gone off the bottom of the tote, and one tiny nick in the edge that was gone with back flattening before I got started on the bevel. It might be the same thing as a Stanley 78 only made in England, not sure.
When I was making the first rabbet after sharpening I had some portion of shavings getting accordion folded up in the mouth on the depth stop side, but mostly getting ejected out the guide side. Is that normal? It seems like it maybe depends on how the grain is running in the stock, because sometimes the whole shaving would come out the guide side.
Blade projection. Reading up on it most folks I found online were talking about having the blade stick out "1-2 millimeters" past the body of the plane to keep the wall of the rabbet square to the face of the board. I eyeballed it, my rabbet came out square, but I only measured about half a millimeter of blade projecting out the side of the body casting afterwards. Just go with it?
First few passes I had the set screws all finger tight, but the guide rail and depth stop were both flapping in the breeze before I was making full length passes. I went back to finger tight and then tightened the set screws 1/8 turn with a screw driver and everything held good and right and true. Go with it, or look at my technique so I don't need a screwdriver for the plane to hold set screw settings in use?
I can see a bit of rust in one of the through holes in the body casting for the guide bars the guide plate runs on. How agressive do I need to be about that and what product can I put on a bottle brush to deal with it?
About the knicker, how tight do I want that mouth opening? Three sides are the body casting, with the depth stop over the gap closing the mouth. I don't want to open it up "too much;" so I guess I am asking how much is enough? Also, the three leaves on the knicker all seem to be slightly different sizes and only one of the three has any kind of bevel honed onto it. Should I probably just finish sharpening the one so it works for me now and leave the other two leaves or blades alone until I get into a spot and need a different bevel on the knicker?
I truly don't know any of these things. I have studiously avoided vintage specialty planes because missing parts are so difficult to source up here. Baileys I can get parts for, but for shoulder planes and router planes and so on I have been sticking to LV and LN so I can just open the box and go.
Pics are in Doug Fir construction lumber that has been in my shop about 8 months, probably about 12-14% MC. Fairly straight grain. Primary bevel at 25 degrees, secondary at 34 degrees because of the blade shape and my honing guide interaction, 4k diamond grit. Start to finish it had made its own home in under two hours, glad I took a chance on it.
458374458375458376458377
When I was making the first rabbet after sharpening I had some portion of shavings getting accordion folded up in the mouth on the depth stop side, but mostly getting ejected out the guide side. Is that normal? It seems like it maybe depends on how the grain is running in the stock, because sometimes the whole shaving would come out the guide side.
Blade projection. Reading up on it most folks I found online were talking about having the blade stick out "1-2 millimeters" past the body of the plane to keep the wall of the rabbet square to the face of the board. I eyeballed it, my rabbet came out square, but I only measured about half a millimeter of blade projecting out the side of the body casting afterwards. Just go with it?
First few passes I had the set screws all finger tight, but the guide rail and depth stop were both flapping in the breeze before I was making full length passes. I went back to finger tight and then tightened the set screws 1/8 turn with a screw driver and everything held good and right and true. Go with it, or look at my technique so I don't need a screwdriver for the plane to hold set screw settings in use?
I can see a bit of rust in one of the through holes in the body casting for the guide bars the guide plate runs on. How agressive do I need to be about that and what product can I put on a bottle brush to deal with it?
About the knicker, how tight do I want that mouth opening? Three sides are the body casting, with the depth stop over the gap closing the mouth. I don't want to open it up "too much;" so I guess I am asking how much is enough? Also, the three leaves on the knicker all seem to be slightly different sizes and only one of the three has any kind of bevel honed onto it. Should I probably just finish sharpening the one so it works for me now and leave the other two leaves or blades alone until I get into a spot and need a different bevel on the knicker?
I truly don't know any of these things. I have studiously avoided vintage specialty planes because missing parts are so difficult to source up here. Baileys I can get parts for, but for shoulder planes and router planes and so on I have been sticking to LV and LN so I can just open the box and go.
Pics are in Doug Fir construction lumber that has been in my shop about 8 months, probably about 12-14% MC. Fairly straight grain. Primary bevel at 25 degrees, secondary at 34 degrees because of the blade shape and my honing guide interaction, 4k diamond grit. Start to finish it had made its own home in under two hours, glad I took a chance on it.
458374458375458376458377