Breadboard end ?

[Wayne Fuder]

I want to use breadboards on a dining table. The top will be 42” X72” X 1 1/4” made of cherry if that makes any difference. I’m undecided on proper dimensions to use. Would a 1/2” tenon that is 2” long in 5 places and a 4” wide breadboard be a good size or are there better choices?

[glenn bradley]

For edges that will see stress an important factor is support. You don't mention how deep the tenon will go into the 4" breadboard but, a couple of inches would be nice. Your spacing sounds fine. I tend to glue and dowel (from below if you don't want it to show)

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at the center and then dowels in graduated slots toward the outside edges.

For edges that do not see stress I have done things like a 2-3/4" breadboard with 1" tongue that runs near-full length; exposed and even at the rear, recessed and capped with a decorative spline at the front.

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This particular breadboard is glued at the front and allowed to expand and contract at the rear keeping the "show" detail elevations true throughout the year.

With modern adhesives and material handling the breadboard, like the dovetail, becomes more a visual decision and less a mechanical requirement. I'm still a fan of both and tradition counts for something in my work. My general rule is half the width of the breadboard is it will be leaned on, sat on, and otherwise lived with. Buffets, media cabinets, hutches and dressers can sport wide breadboards with less support from the top panel. This is just how I do it and nothing has come back yet :). I'm sure there are other methods and pinions that are just as valuable.

[Tom Bender]

Very nice Glen

[Bill Dufour]

I like the Greene & Greene look with capped screw holes showing on the end edge. Slots with oval plugs etc. Eliminates concerns about screw length or overdriving.
Bill D