Router Choice

[Jerry Bruette]

Help me spend my money. I'm shopping for a new router and have my eye on the Milwaukee corded routers.

Don't know if I want the 5615-24 package or the 5616-24 package. I'd like to be able to mount the router in the right wing of my table saw. Don't know if I want/need the extra power for table use. I'm also open to other suggestions of brands.

I'm open to any suggestions or ideas, so let's have'em.

[Dave Sabo]

For table use , you’ll want the higher hp model. The 5616.

I like Milwaukee routers , but not enough to pay a $75 premium over something like the DeWalt 618. The Milwaukee has been out of stock for a while now. DeWalt is available.

[glenn bradley]

I have 6 or 7 Milwaukee routers. The 5615 is fixed speed, the 5616 adds more power, variable speed, and electronic feedback. I use the 5615 when speed control is not an issue, non-burn-prone woods, light cuts, small cutters, etc. I use the 5616 when I am doing maple or cherry (burn prone) or am spinning larger cutters (lower speeds for larger cutters).

I accidentally started using the Milwaukee 5616 a dozen years or so ago. I added a 5615 combo kit during an Amazon price drop. Once I had a few bases, fixed and plunge, the versatility of either motor working in any base led me to buy more.

I also run 5625's in the lifts. One 5625 has been used . . . a lot . . . since the mid 2000's and it just runs and runs. All my other colors (except the Bosch Colts that I have setup for various tasks and have gotten good at replacing bearings in) have worn out or just been sent down the highway as the interchangeable feature on the Mils put them out of a job.

Hand held routers are a personal thing and no one router is right for everyone. I always recommend getting the top contenders in your hands as they have to "feel" right as well as perform. I now feel awkward using a router without a "body grip" strap and a tool that outlasts others certainly gains my loyalty. That doesn't make it right for others ;-)

[Jim Dwight]

I have used a mid sized PC router, a PC690, in a router table before and it worked. But the limited power meant more cuts doing things like panel raising. But cope and stick for doors was OK with it. But I now use the much more powerful PC 7518 in my router table. The added power is very much appreciated. It essentially never slows down. Cutting speed is more for the wood than the router. It depends on how many routers you want or can afford. A mid sized is a true do it all. But I really like having a heavy weight in the router table and a little one for light use (mine is a Bosch Colt).

I have never used a Milwaukee router. So I can't help with model specifics. I think a router big enough for a router table is not well suited for hand held use (but I have a fixed base for my 7518). A mid sized router is good for hand held but just usable for a router table.

[Andy D Jones]

I've been very happy with a Milwaukee 5616. I use both the fixed "BodyGrip" base and the plunge base, plus I use the motor in an Incra Mast-R-Lift-II-R lift on a cast iron router table extension for my table saw.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Jerry Bruette]

I have never used a Milwaukee router. So I can't help with model specifics. I think a router big enough for a router table is not well suited for hand held use (but I have a fixed base for my 7518). A mid sized router is good for hand held but just usable for a router table.

Thus my dilemma, underpowered in the table or heavy while hand held.

[David Bassett]

Thus my dilemma, underpowered in the table or heavy while hand held.

The Creek solved that dilemma a long time ago: By one of each! ;)

[Mike Kees]

I would buy the Dewalt 618 or PC 690 . These middle sized routers can do everything relatively well. They will work well in table mounted use for all but the biggest bits. I own about 6 of the 690's a 3hp plunge and the Dewalt trim router with two bases. Brand is a personal thing, if possible try out a couple and go from there. I do not have a large router in a table, basically because I have two large shapers that do about 98% of my shaping. So in my shop most router use is handheld. As Glen stated pick one brand and end up with several routers and bases that are interchangeable.

[roger wiegand]

PC routers were a great choice for a long time. They are now all discontinued by the manufacturer who has exited the router business.

My new router lift got the Milwaukee 5625 as a result, and so far I'm extremely happy with it.

[Frank Pratt]

Thus my dilemma, underpowered in the table or heavy while hand held.

I got a 5625 for my router table, but it's so nicely balanced & easy to handle that I wouldn't hesitate to use one hand held only. Very nice router.

[Jerry Bruette]

The Creek solved that dilemma a long time ago: By one of each! ;)

I guess I did ask for help spending my money.:)

[Tom M King]

The Creek solved that dilemma a long time ago: By one of each! ;)

Only one each? I don't even want to know how many routers I have. The one I reach for, when I need to change a bit, is a Milwaukee. I don't remember the model number, but it's one of the middle sized ones. That's one of the few that doesn't have a dedicated bit.

[Jim Becker]

With the supply chain being what it is right now, the best approach may be to identify multiple possibilities and purchase what's actually available. I'm a fan of the DW618 series for the 12 amp router space and even with having two nice Festool routers, my DW618 gets its share of use. But I could be quite happy with a Milwaukee, Bosch, etc., if that's what was immediately available and I didn't want to wait for my preference.

Relative to the hand-held vs table use, I also prefer a big, heavy router in the table and a more nimble, but capable router like what I just mentioned for hand-held use. The 12 amp units are fine to use in the table as long as large cutters are not involved, but a dedicated, heavy router motor makes for the best router table setup overall, IMHO.

[Tom Bussey]

I like the Bosch routers. The 2 1/4 HP combo is a little under $220. I saw a kit with a router guide for about $240 and they really come in handy. The plunge base works as smooth as any. 2 1/4 HP will swing the biggest bits for most home work shops. If you are going to do a lot of raised panels then a shaper not a router would be a better choice. The newer one bigger model has the switch in the handle which in my book is worth its weight in gold if I were buying a router for the first time or replacing one. I don't have one because I don't need another router. When it comes to a mini, I bought a Makita with a plunge base. At Christmas time during some good sales I bought a Makita battery powered one. And it has become the work horse for hand held routering for the most part.

I like routers with solid aluminum bodies and the size fits most every router lifts.

[Jason Zondor]

I love my Bosch 1617EVS. Never used it on raised panels but everything else, even flattening large slabs with a 2" surfacing bit. Seems like it has plenty of power. I too like having the aluminum base, never had an issue with adjusting the depth. Only complaint I have is the switch. It's not sealed so dust can get in there and I had to take it apart to clean the inside of the switch. I don't remember what I paid for it, but around $200 seems about right.

[Jason White]

Roger -- Did you have to cut the fine adjust screw off of your 5625 to get it to fit your router lift? I have one, too.


PC routers were a great choice for a long time. They are now all discontinued by the manufacturer who has exited the router business.

My new router lift got the Milwaukee 5625 as a result, and so far I'm extremely happy with it.

[glenn bradley]

Thus my dilemma, underpowered in the table or heavy while hand held.


It's OK. I didn't believe it at the time I was told but . . . you will own more than one router. Buy the one for your main purpose now and buy the more appropriate one for your other purpose later.


Roger -- Did you have to cut the fine adjust screw off of your 5625 to get it to fit your router lift? I have one, too.

My lift came made for the motor diameter and adjustment screw for the 5625. Curses, you can't see the screw as it is opposite the power switch. I couldn't find a pic showing it but, trust me, it goes through a hole machined into the billet on the opposite side of this picture angel ;-)

458344

The beefy lifts (used to) seem to assume a PC 7518 or a Mil 5625. With the demise of the 7518 I don't know what their focus is anymore.

P.s. Removing the adjustment screw is pretty easy. I would not want to do it if I were switching back and forth from lift to hand held though.

[roger wiegand]

Roger -- Did you have to cut the fine adjust screw off of your 5625 to get it to fit your router lift? I have one, too.

No, there was an orientation where it fit without surgery. This is in the Incra version of the Mast-r-lift II.

[Rich Aldrich]

I put the Triton 3-1/4 hp in my router table. I really like it and it is set up so you don’t need a router lift. The plunge adjustment can be made with a supplied wrench through the table insert plate just like a router lift. You just have to make sure you lock the plunge after you adjust it.
I have the Milwaukee 5616-24 kit. I love it. It is my table free router.

[Frank Pratt]

Roger -- Did you have to cut the fine adjust screw off of your 5625 to get it to fit your router lift? I have one, too.

The Excalibur/SawStop lifts fit the 5625 without any mutilation. But it is slightly smaller in diameter than the big PC motor & requires a shim. I couldn't find one locally, so I got a piece of .032"x2"x12" brass shim stock off Amazon that worked perfectly. I think it was about $6 or $8.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

FYI, if you decide on the Milwaukee 5625, Incremental Tools has them in stock. I just ordered one and it will be here Saturday.

Cliff

[Curt Harms]

It's OK. I didn't believe it at the time I was told but . . . you will own more than one router. Buy the one for your main purpose now and buy the more appropriate one for your other purpose later.



My lift came made for the motor diameter and adjustment screw for the 5625. Curses, you can't see the screw as it is opposite the power switch. I couldn't find a pic showing it but, trust me, it goes through a hole machined into the billet on the opposite side of this picture angel ;-)

458344

The beefy lifts (used to) seem to assume a PC 7518 or a Mil 5625. With the demise of the 7518 I don't know what their focus is anymore.

P.s. Removing the adjustment screw is pretty easy. I would not want to do it if I were switching back and forth from lift to hand held though.

You can get 3rd party router motors with the same dimensions as the 7518. Just the motor, no base so clearly intended for lifts. How durable are the 3rd party motors? I have no idea but they're out there.

[Andrew Seemann]

I have the Milwaukee 5615, 5625, and two DeWalt DW618B3 kits, and a few more routers. I used the 5615 in a table until I inherited the 5625. I bought it with the intention of using it both hand held and in the table, but I almost never removed it from the table. It worked adequately, if not ideally, as a table mounted router. Not much longer after I got the 5615, I bought the 3 base DeWalt kit, specifically for the D handle base, which I prefer for hand held use (I never took a liking to the body grip router style). After I got the DeWalt, the 5615 never left the table until I got the 5625.

If I was to be in the market for my good first router, I would definitely go with the DW618B3 kit, and definitely over either Milwaukee. You could mount the two ear base for table use, and still have the option of the D handle and punge base without removing the base from the table, just removing the motor. It will work well enough in a table for small mouldings and non-huge diameter bits. Plus, since it is almost guaranteed that you will buy a 3HP router for table work at some point, you will still end up with a very useful router set for hand held work.

The 5615 Milwaukee is kind of an odd beast. It is adequate but still a little small for table work, yet a little too big for hand held work. It does both, but not well. I haven't used mine once since I swapped it with the 5625. It probably will sit unused until I eventually make a second router table or mount it in my table saw wing.

[Lisa Starr]

I have a DW618 in my table and a DW625 on my WoodRat. The 618 is comfortable for handheld use as well. The 625 is a bit heavier than I like for handheld. I also run a Bosch Colt for lots of the little handheld jobs like roundovers, laminate trimming etc. Yep....somehow my routers have become a collection.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Yep....somehow my routers have become a collection.I am to routers as my wife is to dogs...
The more the merrier.

But, yes- they do turn into an ever growing collection - real quick.

I would suggest trying to find as many different routers and configurations of them and see how they feel.

Routers are one thing in the shop that it's very difficult to go by what someone else uses.

I love my small Makita cordless trim router - but - after I went out an got a corded one that also has a plunge base, I discovered I like the plunge base on my DeWalt 611pk more - go figure.

[Rod Wolfy]

I bought a Hitachi 3 hp a dozen years ago and put it in a table. It goes up & down and can spin a really heavy 4 cutter Freud Raised panel bit. But it doesn't need bells & whistles, as it just sits in the table.

I have about a dozen other routers for above table use. I like the Bosch 1617s with all 3 bases, the Makita cordless & Milwaukee cordless for most edge work & a Festool 1400 in use with the track for precise cuts. I've had lots of others that I've given away or sold.

[Greg Quenneville]

I feel completely inadequate with only three routers. Since I again have a shaper I hardly use my router table, but I do, and wouldn’t get rid of it. As far as handhelds go surely 5 or 6 would be enough?

[Ron Selzer]

As far as handhelds go surely 5 or 6 would be enough

nope
6 trim routers
1 1/2" plunge router
3 PC 100
5 PC 690
2 Hitachi 1/2"
no router tables
have given some routers away thru the years
Ron

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 7518 in my table. Free-hand that thing was intimidating, so it stays in the table. An older D-handle PC fixed base and the Bosch Colt. I needed a good plunge unit so I recently picked up the Festool 1400 with the edge and rail guides. Pricey, but man it is slick. I am on my first project with my new MFT and the 1400 has been excellent.

[Andrew Seemann]

I feel completely inadequate with only three routers. Since I again have a shaper I hardly use my router table, but I do, and wouldn’t get rid of it. As far as handhelds go surely 5 or 6 would be enough?

You would think, but once you get used to leaving certain bits already set up in particular routers, it is hard to go back. I'm looking at adding a couple trim routers to leave a chamfer in one, round over in another, and a flush cutting bit in yet another. That would put me at 7 or 8 (or 9?) I'm not really sure.

[Jim Becker]

You would think, but once you get used to leaving certain bits already set up in particular routers, it is hard to go back. I'm looking at adding a couple trim routers to leave a chamfer in one, round over in another, and a flush cutting bit in yet another. That would put me at 7 or 8 (or 9?) I'm not really sure.
Even moreso, at least for me, there are some tasks that I just happen to prefer a particular format of router. For example, some of the time, I like the lower center of gravity of my fixed base DW618 as compared to my OF1400 and OF1010 routers. I think if I had a lot more routers, I'd most definitely have one or more "dedicated" to a particular task or tooling to your point.

[Curt Harms]

A brand that is almost never discussed is Hitachi. Lowes sells them. Big sky tools has refurbs, sometimes at significant savings. I view the Hitachi KM12VCM fixed/plunge as a successor to the P-C 690 with variable speed. Big Sky has a recons for $109 to $129. Don't have one, never used one, just aware of them. Hitachi also makes a 3 1/4 h.p. Don't know anything about them except they're ugly:D

[Jim Becker]

A brand that is almost never discussed is Hitachi. Lowes sells them. Big sky tools has refurbs, sometimes at significant savings. I view the Hitachi KM12VCM fixed/plunge as a successor to the P-C 690 with variable speed. Big Sky has a recons for $109 to $129. Don't have one, never used one, just aware of them. Hitachi also makes a 3 1/4 h.p. Don't know anything about them except they're ugly:D
There's a name shift to Metabo, but they still have some of the same tools that were branded Hitachi.

[michael langman]

Curt I have the Hitachi M12v and although looking at it took some getting used to I cannot believe it is not more popular. It has excellent fence and quick release collets,
1/4 and 1/2 inch that are very good qulaity.

It is easy to use in my router table without a lift as I inserted a socket ground down into the lifting bolt that takes a 1/4" ratchet extension, and the cost was just under 200.00 for a 3.25 hp routerwith a good dust attachment that hooks to my small shopvac.

Forgot about the soft satrt and variable speed along with a centering attachment for the base.

[Jim Becker]

The Hitachi M12V was very. popular for a period of time, but it did fade for some reason. The current, new version is the Metabo HPT M12VEM and sell in the neighborhood of $210-225 US, depending on the vendor.

[Curt Harms]

The Hitachi M12V was very. popular for a period of time, but it did fade for some reason. The current, new version is the Metabo HPT M12VEM and sell in the neighborhood of $210-225 US, depending on the vendor.

IIRC, there was some peculiarity about the collet at one point. I don't recall any details. At least the new ones aren't 'noteworthy' for their appearance.

[Jim Becker]

IIRC, there was some peculiarity about the collet at one point. I don't recall any details. At least the new ones aren't 'noteworthy' for their appearance.
Yea, the back of my brain recalls something like that. The new version has been slightly stylized in appearance/coloration to fit into the Metabo "look" but otherwise has the same functional shape for sure.

[Curt Harms]

Yea, the back of my brain recalls something like that. The new version has been slightly stylized in appearance/coloration to fit into the Metabo "look" but otherwise has the same functional shape for sure.

Because I was curious I looked at some reviews. Most of the complaints I saw had to do with user ignorance. At least one user couldn't get the bit out and returned the router with the bit still in the collet. Another used a mallet and block of wood to remove the 'stuck' bit. If they had just kept loosening the collet nut it would have gotten snug again and once loose for a second time the bit would have come right out. This seems not uncommon for router collets, My Freud FT2000E is the same. Perhaps there's a lesson here to not take user reviews as gospel.

[Jim Becker]

Because I was curious I looked at some reviews. Most of the complaints I saw had to do with user ignorance. At least one user couldn't get the bit out and returned the router with the bit still in the collet. Another used a mallet and block of wood to remove the 'stuck' bit. If they had just kept loosening the collet nut it would have gotten snug again and once loose for a second time the bit would have come right out. This seems not uncommon for router collets, My Freud FT2000E is the same. Perhaps there's a lesson here to not take user reviews as gospel.

My PC, Dewalt all behave like that with the second detent. I think the Festool routers do, too, but I'd have to get them out to check.

[Justin Rapp]

If it will fit in your router table, grab the spinrite router from Woodpeckers. It looks like bora PM-P254, however comes with an ER20 collect (like the Bora's more expensive model), has the numbs removed to prevent it from catching in a router lift and is soft start. I am pretty impressed with it. You can use the remaining cash too grab a handheld router like the Makita Makita RT0701CX7 (or one of the similar brands)

[Jon Endres]

All of my routers do that. There is a second "resistance" when loosening the collet before it spins freely.

[Jon Endres]

To answer OP's original question - I have several routers and each have their purpose. I have always used a Bosch 1617EVS in a router table but the older 1617's suffered from issues regarding corrosion of the housing. I have never been able to solve that problem so my 1617 is relegated to a shelf until I either fix it or pitch it. My go-to for larger bits is my old reliable Bosch 1613EVS, and for smaller bits is a DeWalt DW611 (I have the -PK kit with the plunge and fixed bases). I have a very old Porter Cable router with a D-handle, but it's scary enough I don't use it. Probably 1960's vintage. My newest one is a Ryobi One+ 18V trim router, which is great for spinning a small roundover or chamfer bit. Finally I havea Bosch 1609 laminate trimmer kit with all the bases, and that sits and collects dust.

If I were buying new, I would look at the Triton routers for a router table, either the DeWalt 618 or Bosch 1617 for table or hand use, and the DeWalt 611 for spinning small 1/4" shank bits.

[Michael Schuch]

The Porter Cable 690 is a 1 3/4 hp router and a little small in my opinion for bigger bits in a router table. The Porter Cable 890 is a better size and more comparable with the Dewalt 618. The Porter Cable 7539 is a large 3+ hp router with big spindle bearings that should turn most large sized routerbits safely and effectively.

The PC690 was my first router and a present from my parents 30+ years ago. It has always been one of my favorites. Mine came with a plunge base and router table. The router table did a nice job but the 690 was too small for the lock miter bit I tried in it. The lower spindle bearing wasn't up to that much weight and side torque. I have since picked up a couple more 690's used and really like them all.

I consider my Bosch 1617 in about the same class as my 690 even though it has a higher rated hp. It is also a very nice router but my PC690's gets more use mainly because I am more used to them than anything.

My Dewalt 618 is on the large size for hand routing but still useable. I have never tried my Dewalt in a table but I am sure it would do a good job.

My Porter Cable 7538 is what I use in a router table mostly. I picked it up (looked new) from a Goodwill for $40. It was missing the plunge return spring but when I got it home I found that it had an after market adjustment screw in one of the columns allowing for easy adjustments above the table without a router lift. I forget the name of that aftermarket adjustment device.

My favorite hand held routers are the old Stanley routers. They are a nice size and weight makeing them very nice to manipulate with a single hand by palming the router body. The little grip knobs on the Stanley routers have been too small for me since I was about 14.

I do most stationary spindle work on a shaper. A big heavy machine works much better for me with the only downside being the cost of the cutters.

[Rich Engelhardt]

My Porter Cable 7538 is what I use in a router table mostly. I picked it up (looked new) from a Goodwill for $40. It was missing the plunge return spring but when I got it home I found that it had an after market adjustment screw in one of the columns allowing for easy adjustments above the table without a router lift. I forget the name of that aftermarket adjustment device.Router Raizer? (https://www.rockler.com/router-raizer?sid=AF268)
I had looked at one of those and decided on a Freud 1702 VCEK instead.

[Michael Schuch]

Router Raizer? (https://www.rockler.com/router-raizer?sid=AF268)
I had looked at one of those and decided on a Freud 1702 VCEK instead.

Yep! That is it.

[Warren Lake]

Curt that is common on many of the routers ive had that second tight phase.

[Curt Harms]

A brand that is almost never discussed is Hitachi. Lowes sells them. Big sky tools has refurbs, sometimes at significant savings. I view the Hitachi KM12VCM fixed/plunge as a successor to the P-C 690 with variable speed. Big Sky has a recons for $109 to $129. Don't have one, never used one, just aware of them. Hitachi also makes a 3 1/4 h.p. Don't know anything about them except they're ugly:D

Bad news re Big Sky Tool. They're closing their web site in a couple weeks and pretty much going out of business. Bummer, they'd have some attractive deals on like-new tools. It sounds like Metabo didn't care for them for whatever reason.