Honda EU6500is Generator

[John Terefenko]

I have this Honda generator. Having a problem and thought I would throw it out here to see what the masses have to say. Just happened. Ran about one month ago as I always run it for exercise and make sure it starts. Now I can start it but is stops after about 5 seconds. Things I checked without getting into much because I am not that sure of what to look for. I checked for oil incase it was kicking out on low oil sensor but not the case. I checked the spark plug and it is clean and gapped right. I checked for gas in carb and there was in bowl and it is clean. There is high test gas which I have been using and it is full and clean. Put fresh in tank because it was about 1/4 full.

Anyone have any ideas?? This thing is so heavy that I would hate to have to lift to bring to dealer. Thanks.

[Kev Williams]

When you checked for gas in the bowl, did you remove the bowl?
I had this happen several times in the past, this guck-
458195
-which resembles the gel in canned Spam but firmer- I'd find in my mower's float bowls. Between water in gas, alcohol in gas, and hoses on gas-engined power equipment not compatible with ethanol, this is the result. Found this in the carbs of 3 mowers, and the carbs on an outboard boat motor... The gas is the bowl is pristine clean but that guck gets up into the jet and the engine dies due to lack of fuel. Another hose that alcohol attacks is the primer tube on many motors. My Cub Cadet 3-stage snowblower at 2 years old wouldn't prime the carb. When I got into it I found the primer tube, which only pushes air, was as brittle and fragile as sugar glass, just crumbled in my hands. Just the fumes from the carb destroyed that tube...

Don't know if ethanol is your problem but worth a look. Some gas stations around here sell alcohol-free gas, and that's all I've put in my small engines for some time now. No more funny business with hoses and carb junk since :)

[Alex Zeller]

I always run the carb dry when I know I'm not going to use a small engine. Gas inside them sitting seems to gum them up. Ethanol makes it even worse.

[John Terefenko]

I always run the carb dry. Started draining the bowl too about 2 months ago because someone told that was a good idea. I did not take the bowl off.

Is there an additive I can run through the gas to try to clean without taking the carb apart?? The gen has about 70 hrs on it. I use to use middle grade gas but switched to premium last year because someone said that was better. Had no problems till this month that I tried to start.

[Jebediah Eckert]

My first thought was the oil. Maybe double check that. It doesn’t have to be that far down to trigger it. Or just change it, super simple and at least you can eliminate that.

I imagine you are trying to run it without a load and still having that problem? They will shut off if they get overloaded. Eco throttle off when starting it, but I can’t imagine that would do it unless under load. If your getting the red overload light going on there is a way to get the error codes. I think hold down the “I” button?

Also there is an air intake behind the battery. Check that as well as the air filter. If it’s kept inside with 70 hours I doubt those are an issue unless maybe a mouse moved in.

Gas seems most likely? The bowl is easy to take off and check. If you take that off and it’s clean my next move would have to be off to a dealer. It still could be gas but I don’t know enough to clean beyond that. Have them pick it up, they are heavy.

[Tom M King]

I only run non-ethanol gas in any of the small equipment. I do keep a spare carb for the generator, that might go years between uses. The gunk in Kev's carb bowl looks like the stuff that accumulates when ethanol gas has been sitting in one for a while. Carb needle valves don't play well with that in there.

I run four stroke stuff dry, but never a two stroke. Some of my two stroke things might go a few years between uses too but with non-ethanol in the mix, they always start.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Yeah Tom, gas is for sure an issue for me. I can’t get non-ethanol gas in CT. Down your way it seemed like it was plenty last time I was there. I treat all my small engine gas even if I’m not going to store it. Maybe sometimes a waste but plans can change with how long it will be in there.

I use 87 octane. I think gas is like a “sharpening” thread when I tried to look it up. Since then I ask every mechanic I can about what gas to use. I have yet to have somebody say anything but 87 (unless the manual calls for it). They seem to agree teams of engineers design these things and that is what they are meant to run on. A couple have said 87 gas is always “freshest” because the stations sell many many times more then the premium. This could be all hogwash but it makes sense to me so that is what I go with. And for once the “better” stuff to use happens to be the cheapest....why can’t woodworking be like that!

** Don’t take advice on small engines from somebody who can’t confidentially clean his own carburetor. My opinions on this matter are my own and there is a chance they aren’t correct.

** But the basic things I said to check on the generator I know are correct.

[Alex Zeller]

Another simple test is to get an in-line spark detector. They are cheap and are basically light up when the plug fires. If the light goes out before it shuts off it's an ignition problem. If not then it's a gas problem. If not then it's the carb/ fuel issue.

Maybe this will be of some help. Not sure which engine your gen has, this is for the GX series engines, but this should be close. A simple way to test the float valve is to shut off the fuel, remove the bowl drain (should be on the side of the bottom of the bowl), let any fuel drain out into a pan, then turn on the fuel. Fuel should run out of the drain. I would let it flow for a few seconds then shut off the fuel again.
https://www.honda-engines-eu.com/documents/10912/31055/1483/e9844030-8016-4d4a-8d30-d1e8cd215253

[John Terefenko]

A couple answers or replys to the replys. I started using premium gas last year. Before that I was using the middle grade. Does it make a difference I do not know. We too have no non-ethonol gas in NJ where I am. I too have very little knowledge of rebuilding or taking off carbs. I am trying the most simple things. I will take off the air box ( I do not think there is an air filter in there) and will try spraying some carb cleaner in it. I will take the bowl off and look inside to see if it is dirty. As I said spark plug looks brand new and is clean. The problem this this is electronic control so no manual choke. It has a two motors that sit on top of the carb and are a pain in the butt from what I am told to get back on after they are taken off because of the small springs. I would not want to try this. I may have to try to find a dealer. The place I bought from does not work on them, they are just a vendor. As I mentioned when I shut it down I always turn off the fuel valve and let run till it runs out of gas and shuts off. I then turn key off and drain bowl.

I am reading all your replays so keep them coming. Thanks.

[Tom M King]

Octane is just resistance to pre ignition. Having more does nothing for a regular, ordinary compression motor. If you have a high rpm, high compression motor, more octane is required to keep the engine from knocking (prematurely firing as the piston goes up). At high rpm, and with high compression, the spark has to be advanced to a point before the piston reaches TDC, and this requires a higher octane to prevent it from firing too fast. More octane makes it burn slower.

I see guys with regular motorcycles buying racing gas at a station near us. All their chrome exhaust pipes are blue where the exhaust comes out of the head because I expect some of the fuel mixture is still burning as it goes out.

Higher octane gas does not have more power, and I don't know, but don't see why it would last longer.

For a four stroke motor, I would run the gas out when you finish using it, if you are running ethanol gas. For a two stroke, it will be running dry the last few revolutions, if you run the gas out, so that will only shorten its life.

Spraying carb cleaner down a throat will do little. The important parts are inside the guts of the carb, and you have to take it apart to get to those.

There is a float in the bowl that closes the needle valve. The needle valve is usually the problem. They're pretty simple to change, and once they stick, it's hard to get much more life out of them.

[Stan Coryell]

I would take the air cleaner out, spray in a shot of carb cleaner, then start it. Once running give it another quick shot. If it starts to die, give it another shot. If you can keep it running on carb cleaner for 20 seconds or so it's a fuel problem. Otherwise it's electrical.

I use 87 and put Stabil in it. I also use Type II fuel cans, they only vent under pressure. I never run anything dry. I start everything every few months. Whether any of this helps I have no idea. My snow blower, Tecumseh 5 HP snow king, needs a new carb. Not bad after 17 years.

[Mike Wilkins]

Similar problem with my pressure washer. Had the dealer service it to get it running again, and was advised the gas is the culprit. Especially for equipment that is not used often. I have since started using the fuel pre-packaged from the big box store. It has no ethanol in it and includes a fuel stabilizer. No problems since. I also use the pre-packaged fuel in my 2-stroke trimmer and blower.
I have also been adding Sta-bil to the gas for my riding mower all the time, and have no problems starting it after sitting all winter. No corn in my machines.

[Dave Zellers]

I use 87 and put Stabil in it.
I know nothing about engines of any kind. I use Startron as an additive. Is that OK too?
I do the 'run the engine dry and then start it and run it with Tru Fuel' routine before storing. Is that not necessary? It's actually quite embarrassing that I'm still this clueless about the small engines that I depend on.

[John Terefenko]

I am going to pick up some stabilizer and also carb cleaner and try some simple things. Thanks everyone.

[Bill Dufour]

Remove carb and replace with a natural gas version, problem solved, forever.
Bill D

[Bill Dufour]

I would say add 95% alcohol to dry out the tank but the pandemic makes that hard to get.
Bill D

[George Yetka]

I had 2 generators fail when i needed them a couple month ago. Both had gummed up carburetors. I had a honda inverter. the maintence kit was $40 the maintenece kit with a new carb was 65. So i replaced it. same with my generac. Granted they are not genuine Carbs but it was easier to replace it then spend time cleaning it. I did however keep the old ones and soaked them and through them on the shelf

[Scott T Smith]

If it consistently will start, run 5 seconds and then shut down, and then repeat, your problem in all likelihood is a bad oil or temperature sensor. These engines are designed to shut themselves off if they are low on oil.

Locate the sensor and disconnect it to see if it makes a difference. If so, replace the sensor.

[John Terefenko]

If it consistently will start, run 5 seconds and then shut down, and then repeat, your problem in all likelihood is a bad oil or temperature sensor. These engines are designed to shut themselves off if they are low on oil.

Locate the sensor and disconnect it to see if it makes a difference. If so, replace the sensor.

Will try because I am going to replace oil anyway.

[Jeff Ramsey]

Mechanic in a bottle cleans well, but the engine needs to run longer than 5 seconds. If it ran for a while then shut off, I’d suspect the coil or something electrical, but 5 seconds doesn’t seem long enough to heat up the coil. Try an in-line spark tester and if it flashes while shutting down, it’s likely not electrical. Does it sputter as it shuts off, or does it shut off quickly? If the former I’d suspect the fuel/carburetor and if the latter I’d suspect ... lots of things including the coil. Is there an electronic controller board? I’ve an EB11000 and there’s a controller board. Do you treat your gas? If that generator doesn’t have a manual choke (mine does), you could block the air intakes on the outside to force a richer mix (ie choking) to see if it runs longer. If it does, it’s likely a gummed up carburetor (don’t let it run like this long or it’ll run hot). Also run it with the ECO switch off which should run the engine at higher RPMs (at least my EB11000 does). If you suspect the carburetor, pull off the bowl and put the components (main jet/nozzle) in carburetor cleaner over night (or pull the carburetor and toss the entire carburetor in with the bowl and components off). Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive. If it is the carburetor, welcome to the wonderful world of corn fuel and small engines. BTW I use 89 and treat my gas with StarTron (I live 30 miles north of Philly and have no access to reasonable octane E0 — I don’t consider Aviation fuel reasonable octane for small engines).

[John Terefenko]

Mechanic in a bottle cleans well, but the engine needs to run longer than 5 seconds. If it ran for a while then shut off, I’d suspect the coil or something electrical, but 5 seconds doesn’t seem long enough to heat up the coil. Try an in-line spark tester and if it flashes while shutting down, it’s likely not electrical. Does it sputter as it shuts off, or does it shut off quickly? If the former I’d suspect the fuel/carburetor and if the latter I’d suspect ... lots of things including the coil. Is there an electronic controller board? I’ve an EB11000 and there’s a controller board. Do you treat your gas? If that generator doesn’t have a manual choke (mine does), you could block the air intakes on the outside to force a richer mix (ie choking) to see if it runs longer. If it does, it’s likely a gummed up carburetor (don’t let it run like this long or it’ll run hot). Also run it with the ECO switch off which should run the engine at higher RPMs (at least my EB11000 does). If you suspect the carburetor, pull off the bowl and put the components (main jet/nozzle) in carburetor cleaner over night (or pull the carburetor and toss the entire carburetor in with the bowl and components off). Carburetor rebuild kits are inexpensive. If it is the carburetor, welcome to the wonderful world of corn fuel and small engines. BTW I use 89 and treat my gas with StarTron (I live 30 miles north of Philly and have no access to reasonable octane E0 — I don’t consider Aviation fuel reasonable octane for small engines).


It does not sputter when shuts down. Just quickly shuts off. I did not put stabilizer in this gas and thought I could get away with it. Just bought a charger so first step will be to try to salvage the battery (probably not) if not then will get new battery. This way I can see if there are any error codes that maybe a clue. Next will be drain oil and pull airbox and shoot carb cleaner in carb. Will take carb bowl off and look in it and clean. I do not want to pull carb because it has 2 choke motors sitting on top and the little springs are a pain to deal with. I will have it in the service shop then and have them do a maintenance and from now on I will use stabilizer in gas. That is where I probably went wrong. Need to get battery anyway so will start there. Thanks.I know it is not electronic board. It could be an oil sensor or temp sensor. Will see.

[Jebediah Eckert]

You won’t do that again when you see how much the battery is.....trickle charger.......

[Stan Coryell]

I know nothing about engines of any kind. I use Startron as an additive. Is that OK too?
I do the 'run the engine dry and then start it and run it with Tru Fuel' routine before storing. Is that not necessary? It's actually quite embarrassing that I'm still this clueless about the small engines that I depend on.

Sorry Dave I didn't see your question.
I've never used Startron
At home I use about 4 gallons of gas and 2 gallons of 50:1 a year. When I buy gas I put Staybil in it. I also keep it in a Type II safety can. These cans are not open to atmosphere. I really don't do anything special. I just try to run everything every couple of months.
I have a Craftsman lawnmower that is getting close to 20 years old. Its just starting to use oil. Other than yearly oil changes and air filter checks, two sets of tires, and routine maintenance I haven't done anything to it. It runs 40 minutes every 5 days in season.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Low oil sensor could be bad. Unplug wire from it and see if it runs. If so, there is your answer. On most engines, low oil sensor won't let it start. I would check fuel supply, as it sounds like it's running out of fuel quickly.

[John Terefenko]

Just wanted to give an update on this situation. I was finally able to get to my generator problem today. First let me say I had to buy a new battery because I did not keep the old one charged and it was too far gone. I wanted to see if any error codes would come up when turned on and sure enough the oil light was on as I figured it might be. Thought it might be a sensor. Well I drained oil and put fresh in. Turned key and light went out and started right up. Ran for an hour with a load on it and it purred like a kitten. So no rebuilding carbs or tearing anything down. But I will run gas out of it and from now on use gas with stabilizer in it. This gas was bought in Dec. So I am pushing it but with doing some runs to keep battery charged and keep things running well I will burn it up within a few more hours.

Want to thank everyone for their thoughts and ideas and knowledge. Have to say I actually stopped at a dealer to set up a pickup if I could not get running so saved a few $$$. Thanks again.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks for the update!

Just one more thing I do with mine. I shut the gas off and run it til it stops. Then open the side panel and you will see a clear hose that runs from the bottom of the carb to the ground. There is a screw on top you open up and the remaining little bit of gas will drain out. There isn’t much but I think that little bit causes problems over time. Once drained tighten the screw back up. Man, that oil must have been in rough shape to trip that sensor.

Your in a winter zone like me. Once the leaves fall I run the generator, fresh gas and fresh oil. Then it gets done at least once a year. Trickle charger is also key.

[John K Jordan]

I have this Honda generator. Having a problem and thought I would throw it out here to see what the masses have to say. Just happened. Ran about one month ago as I always run it for exercise and make sure it starts. Now I can start it but is stops after about 5 seconds. Things I checked without getting into much because I am not that sure of what to look for. I checked for oil incase it was kicking out on low oil sensor but not the case. I checked the spark plug and it is clean and gapped right. I checked for gas in carb and there was in bowl and it is clean. There is high test gas which I have been using and it is full and clean. Put fresh in tank because it was about 1/4 full.

Anyone have any ideas?? This thing is so heavy that I would hate to have to lift to bring to dealer. Thanks.

Starting and then stopping soon suggests a fuel problem. Sometimes the intake line gets clogged. Disconnect the fuel like and see if full runs freely. Collect such fuel and inspect for water. See if fuel is making it through the petcock - some have internal screens which can clog. Make sure any cutoff valve is completely on. I've fixed many engines with the same problem with cleaning. If not getting fuel from the tank try blowing air up to the take from the disconnected fuel like. This can temporarily dislodge debris in and around the pickup tube. (I have temporarily "fixed" two big diesel mowers like this, one last week, enough to run to get back to the shop for disassembly and cleaning. Check and change any fuel filters. Remove the float bowl and see if fuel is coming trough and cutting off properly when lifting the float. (flooding can kill the engine too.)

Visually inspect the choke mechanism and make sure it is working properly, whether mechanical or otherwise. Have a clean air filter of course.

If getting fuel and air I then test the spark - remove the spark plug, ground the threads, and watch for a strong spark in reduced light. If missing I check the plug, wiring, then the coil. However, a problem with the spark is unlikely if the engine will start and run for a while.

If spark and air are good I then remove the carb and disassemble and clean. I have found gunk in various places in the carb including a buildup inside the tube to the main jet. (That one ran find after cleaning) Use carb cleaner on everything and blow compressed air through all the holes.

There are carb rebuild kits which replace the parts that tend to need it.

BTW, I never drain gas after use. From my research this is not necessary if using good fuel without alcohol but with stabilizer, running the engine regularly.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Back to that problem......we can’t get ethanol free gas up here.

[John K Jordan]

Back to that problem......we can’t get ethanol free gas up here.

It's widely available here, but usually high-test only and it's not cheap. I have to drive from 5 to 10 miles.

A google search shows several stations in your area that supposedly carry gasoline without ethanol.
Here is one general list of availability in the state. (I don't know how far these are)

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=CT

[John Terefenko]

Thanks for the update!

Just one more thing I do with mine. I shut the gas off and run it til it stops. Then open the side panel and you will see a clear hose that runs from the bottom of the carb to the ground. There is a screw on top you open up and the remaining little bit of gas will drain out. There isn’t much but I think that little bit causes problems over time. Once drained tighten the screw back up. Man, that oil must have been in rough shape to trip that sensor.

Your in a winter zone like me. Once the leaves fall I run the generator, fresh gas and fresh oil. Then it gets done at least once a year. Trickle charger is also key.
Have been doing it that way ever since I got it so will continue. Hopefully will give me more years with out troubles. Many times I sure was glad to have it. Thanks again everyone.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks John, believe me I tried and have been on that site.

All those places are ones that special order racing fuel in 5 gallon sealed cans, crazy expensive.

I thought you were talking about an actual gas station that has it for a semi normal price. If we have those I have never found one. Last time I was in North Carolina we found tons of options that was ethanol free with no “road” tax. Not here.

If one does exist I’d travel a decent distance and stock up for the year for all my small engines. The racing fuel was crazy per gallon when I asked about it. There were a few 50-60 miles away in New York on that site. I called them all and same thing, they only had the racing fuel in sealed cans.

I wish I could.....

[John K Jordan]

These are normal, everyday gas stations. Most pumps are labeled “Up to 10% ethanol” but they have special pumps clearly marked “Pure gasoline - no ethanol”. I use it in all chain saws, weedeaters, leaf blower, 4-wheelers, tiller, sawmill, pumps, etc.

It’s crazy, unfortunate, and seems unfair in your area. Are the gas station owners just too cheap to install the pumps and tanks? There is a healthy demand for alcohol-free gas here so a lot of companies added it when they built new stations. For example many of the Weigle’s stations all over this area carry it in their newest stores. I have bought it from 4 local gas stations. Btw, a few years back a couple of stations operators told me none of their gas contained alcohol although that wasn’t advertised so I bought a little test kit - it always tested good.

Could it be that some regulation exists in your part of the country that discourages gas without alcohol, maybe pressured by the industries that profit from ethanol production?



Thanks John, believe me I tried and have been on that site.

All those places are ones that special order racing fuel in 5 gallon sealed cans, crazy expensive.

I thought you were talking about an actual gas station that has it for a semi normal price. If we have those I have never found one. Last time I was in North Carolina we found tons of options that was ethanol free with no “road” tax. Not here.

If one does exist IÂ’d travel a decent distance and stock up for the year for all my small engines. The racing fuel was crazy per gallon when I asked about it. There were a few 50-60 miles away in New York on that site. I called them all and same thing, they only had the racing fuel in sealed cans.

I wish I could.....

[Jebediah Eckert]

I don’t know for sure, but I’m guessing ethanol free gas can’t be sold here? I could be wrong but I gave up trying to find it within say an hour or so drive.

For laughs I called again on the racing fuel, but it was almost $20 a gallon when bought that way.

[Thomas L Carpenter]

It may be easier and faster to just replace the carb. They are dirt cheap these days. You can clean up the old one or just toss it. I think I paid about $15 to replace the one on my old generator.

[John K Jordan]

I don’t know for sure, but I’m guessing ethanol free gas can’t be sold here? I could be wrong but I gave up trying to find it within say an hour or so drive.

For laughs I called again on the racing fuel, but it was almost $20 a gallon when bought that way.

Maybe someone driving up your way with a trailer? ...

[Howard Garner]

Look aound your local race track it you have one.
Find out what/where they get their fuel
Years ago one of he local stations stocked 76 Racing Fuel for the local tracl.

Howard Garner

[Jebediah Eckert]

That’s the only way I can think of.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I don’t know for sure, but I’m guessing ethanol free gas can’t be sold here? I could be wrong but I gave up trying to find it within say an hour or so drive.

For laughs I called again on the racing fuel, but it was almost $20 a gallon when bought that way.

Check with local Fixed Base Operators (FBO) at your local general aviation terminals and municipal airports. They will still probably* retail 100LL Avgas. It has zero corn content as far as I know. It won't be cheap, relative to corner store auto fuel, but if you only need a little...?

*- Uncle Sugar (EPA) has been trying to rid the world of this for ages, but its still here - powering all those evil Cessnas.

[Jebediah Eckert]

It’s worth a try. Thanks.