Building extension wings on my Dewalt GA RAS.

[Bobby Robbinett]

Ok so I have been pondering and researching how to do some extension wings with fence and stops onto my Dewalt GA radial arm saw and I think that I finally have the majority of it decided on. I am all about accuracy and want to make absolutely sure that the left and right extensions are both flat and square. There will be an 8ft extension with the fence and stop on the left and a 6ft extension on the right.

I decided to build this out of steel instead of wood for several reasons that I will not completely go into. Each wing will be 30” deep x 34.5” or so tall. My plan is to use two 2”x3” box tubing aprons (on each side) laid on their wide side using aluminum angle brackets with slotted holes drilled into each side for mounting the saw side of the aprons to the saw. The slotted holes will allow me to adjust the extension wing up and down and in and out so that I can really dial it in.

The top will be made of edge banded melamine and will screw down to the 2x3 box tubing aprons. On the outside end of each extension wing I am still debating on how to make the legs. They need to be adjustable in order to dial it in with regards to it being flat all the way across from the saw to the end of the extensions. I am highly considering using 3/4” black pipe on each 2x3 box tube with a Tee fitting about 18” up from the bottom connecting the two on each side. The 3/4” black iron legs would screw into a take off plate (or what ever you call the mounting brackets that are taped for this purpose) and between the top take off brackets and the Tee I should have a decent bit of adjustment up and down by simply twisting the pipe either way.

Do you guys have any better ideas on the legs?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I like the idea of using steel for the table frame. My DW GE has a large factory table with it, makes everything very solid. I would modify the leg design though. 3/4" pipe is pretty dainty and 18" of it would introduce a wobble possibility to it. Personally I'd skip the pipe completely and use a larger angle iron for the legs. Weld a pad on the bottom, drill a hole in it and use a bolt head down with a nut on each side of the pad to adjust level. I'd also skip the aluminum brackets and just use one metal throughout, but that's a personal preference thing. I'm sure you know this, but mind the warping when welding up, pretty easy to fabricate a warp in if you don't mind the right order of welding.

[Bill Dufour]

"Pipe flange" is the mounting plate term.
BILL D