recommendations for beading

[Thomas Crawford]

I'd like to put a smallish bead on edges sometimes - I have the Veritas small plow and could get those blades although I'm waiting until July in that case. Has anyone used those? Otherwise looks like I can overpay on eBay for some wooden versions? LN and veritas beading tools are out of stock for who knows how long.

[Eric Rathhaus]

What about making your own scratch stock? Here's a thread on how to do it: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?97319-Scratch-Stock-Simple-Easy-Effective-(Photo-Tutorial)

[Jim Koepke]

Thomas, The answer to this depends on how big of a bead you want to make. My recollection is the Veritas Small Plow Plane is limited in the size of beading blade it can support.

You might be able to use a beading blade made for other planes. My review of the VSPP mentions this option > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?251419

Making your own beading tool is not that difficult. Search > scratch stock < to find various articles.

jtk

[steven c newman]

hmmmm...Stanley No. 45 had about any size bead cutter you could want....
458081

Been using mine a lot, lately....

[Tom M King]

The absolute easiest way to put a bead on the edge of a board is with a dedicated molding plane.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I have the Veritas small plow. I bought the 3 beading blades thinking I would use them more than I have. Not many of my projects call for beading, but I used them on a couple of things a while ago. I recall practicing on pieces of scrap wood before using them. The LN and Stanley 66 beaders show up on eBay fairly often.

[Derek Cohen]

I'd like to put a smallish bead on edges sometimes - I have the Veritas small plow and could get those blades although I'm waiting until July in that case. Has anyone used those? Otherwise looks like I can overpay on eBay for some wooden versions? LN and veritas beading tools are out of stock for who knows how long.

Hi Thomas

I wrote a pictorial on using the Small Plow for beading: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallPlowasaBeadingPlane.html

A plough plane is vulnerable to tearout when using beading blades owing to the absence of a mouth. The main strategy I used in this article (which I had not come across elsewhere) was to add a 15 degree backbevel to create a 60 degree cutting angle. This seems to aid in controlling tearout very well.

Here is a test bead both with- and against the grain ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Fs2NXpK2/Veritas-Small-Plowasa-Beading-Plane-html-1eda653f.jpg


Edit to add: adding a bead to a frame: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ANewAngleOnScratchStock.html

https://i.postimg.cc/pd1tkJ3G/ANew-Angle-On-Scratch-Stock-html-52773e96.jpg

The safest method of making a bead is using a scratch stock. One can either make one - this is really a simple tool - or purchase one, such as from Veritas. The reason they work so well is that they are scrapers, in other words, very high cutting angled planes. Again, this is needed when cutting a bead since many woods are not perfectly straight-grained. In an ideal world, one would only use/choose straight-grained wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Lie Nielsen Beading too (https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/bronze-beading-tool-and-blade-set)l that I'll sell. If you're interested, PM me.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

I have the Lie Nielsen Beading too (https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/bronze-beading-tool-and-blade-set)l that I'll sell. If you're interested, PM me.

Mike

That is something to jump on Thomas.

My Stanley #66 beader comes in handy at times. The LN followed the design of the Stanley.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I have the LN #66 beader, and it is a fabulous tool. It replaced a Stanley #66 - frankly, not really an upgrade in function, just in construction/looks.

The blades for the LN are very similar to those from Veritas. The LN are thicker (good) but the arrises are wider (not so good). The wider arris creates a wider groove, which is less aesthetic. So I use the Veritas blades in the LN.

An alternative to the #66 is the Veritas caste scratch stock, which is a copy of a Preston. I have a review here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastScratchStock2.html

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastScratchStock_html_4d6672ce.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastScratchStock_html_md2fd936.jpg

The LN is a solid, powerful tool. The Veritas uses more finesse.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Bassett]

If you'll use it a lot I'm sure the LV or L-N ones are better, but...

Woodcraft carries a Hock Scratch Stock (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hock-scratch-stock) for $32. I assume you can get it from Hock directly and probably other vendors. (Or, it's pretty simple. You could look at the pictures and make one, using some saw plate, an old scraper, or some sheet steel as a blade blank.)

[Scott Winners]

If you want to make one from scratch I have three otherwise hopeless sawplates laying around my shop. The only reason I kept them is to "someday" make custom shaped scrapers from them. You can probably find a hopeless saw local to you in Texas for less than shipping from my place in Alaska, but if you strike out drop me a message, I will let you have one free if you pay shipping on it, probably 20-25 bucks.

FWIW I have the Veritas small plow with all Imperial blades on backorder myself, only two months to go.

[Stewie Simpson]

The absolute easiest way to put a bead on the edge of a board is with a dedicated molding plane.

+ 1 on Tom's recommendation.

[steven c newman]

458119
Too many forget that Stanley MADE a decent plane system, that all you needed to buy was the cutters..
458120
In fact, the basic Stanley 45 came with a set, of both straight and bead cutters....
458121
They are NOT that hard to set up.....
458122
I like them so well, I have 2.....one mainly for dados, the other a more general appl.

You can go on that auction site right now....and buy cutters by the box full......and..YES..they do indeed work with the modern knock-off versions....ps: Cutters for the Record version also work just fine.....haven't heard about the cutters Sargent supplied with their version.....notches are a bit different....

[Mark Rainey]

Check out this (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?269255-Beading&highlight=)

[Tom M King]

The thing I don't like about the beading cutters for a multi-plane is that they leave a little flat at the bottom of the quirk.

I made a reproduction beaded mantle, to match others in an old house that had a patchwork of little beaded panels. I bought every beading tool I could find, knowing there would be hours spent making those little squares. I already had an old Stanley, but bought both the ones that Lee Valley sells, and some cutters for the Stanley from LN.

My favorite of the bunch is the cheapest one-the wooden one from LV. It's the lightest, and also the fence can be positioned the farthest away from the cutter. I like the cutters from LV best too. They all work.

[Mel Fulks]

[QUOTE=Tom M King;3121932]The thing I don't like about the beading cutters for a multi-plane is that they leave a little flat at the bottom of the quirk.

Agree. I was taught that old work always went to a point. Some can’t do finishing without “gutters”.

[Axel de Pugey]

I have the LN #66 beader, and it is a fabulous tool. It replaced a Stanley #66 - frankly, not really an upgrade in function, just in construction/looks.

The blades for the LN are very similar to those from Veritas. The LN are thicker (good) but the arrises are wider (not so good). The wider arris creates a wider groove, which is less aesthetic. So I use the Veritas blades in the LN.

An alternative to the #66 is the Veritas caste scratch stock, which is a copy of a Preston. I have a review here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastScratchStock2.html


The LN is a solid, powerful tool. The Veritas uses more finesse.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have a Stanley #66 and a Preston 1393S, what the English does that the American cannot do, is tight convex curves.
I really enjoy these two tools.

The notch is different, I wonder if the Veritas’ blades could be adapted easily to fit the Preston, I am missing one of the original blades.