A Hello and a Request

[Cody Colston]

Hiya folks,

I've been lurking here a good while and though I call another forum "Home" I sure do enjoy the atmosphere around here. I know a few of you from other places and feel like I know you all. I've even drooled hearing about Carole's biscuits and I saved her recipe. :)

Anyway, I ordered the Sorby HollowMaster for Christmas and have been trying it out the last couple of days. My first attempt was on a Cedar potpourri pot type form and it went kaput when the tenon ripped the bottom out just as I was nearing completion with my hollowing.

Today I turned a small 5" x 9" endgrain vase-type form out of Walnut. I managed to get it completed, although I chickened out on the wall thickness, leaving it near 1/2' thick. It was an end-grain turning and seemed easier than the Cedar side-grain attempt. I also left it on a faceplate until it was finished and then parted it off.

I know some of you have the HollowMaster, in fact this is where I decided on it. Can any of you pass on any tips as to it's use?

Cody

[Cecil Arnold]

Hi Cody, don't know if I said welcome to SMC earlier but just noticed you're from up the road. Don't know what lathe you're using, but I had a problem with tenons breaking before I went to bigger jaws on my chuck. Should have asked here but was too hardheaded.

[John Hart]

Hey Cody...Welcome to your New Home!! :) I've only accumulated limited experience with the Hollowmaster but I did have the same problem as what you described. Although I might be doing it wrong, I did find some success by moving the tool rest up above center quite a ways. It seemed that when the tool rest was lower, I had to apply too much pressure, then it would suddenly bite and WHAM! So I moved the tool rest up and this put the curvature of the piece at a difference attitude with respect to the edge of the blade. Now, I can make lighter cuts and achieve thinner and more even walls with more confidence.

But, like I said...This could be completely wrong.;)

[Robert Mickley]

Well look what the cat drug in :D :D How ya doing Cody?

I think John hit it on the head, oh though I still even after 3 years get catches with mine. I've arrived at the conclusion that theres a very small sweet spot where it works well

[Mark Cothren]

Welcome Cody!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Welcome aboard Cody.

[Jeremiah Jordan]

Welcome Cody. May the spins be with you.

Jeremiah

[Raymond Overman]

Welcome Cody.

I'll second John's assesment that your attack angle is probably too aggressive. At 90 degrees or higher than the center line on your turning, you have a huge mechanical advantage on piece of wood. Given the choice during a catch, the tenon will give before the tool will. By angling the tool slightly downward and slightly raising the tool rest you eliminate the catch. You won't be able to hog out as much material as quickly but you'll have more control.

You may also want to add a straight boring bar to your tool arsenal. Though the Hollowmaster has it's uses, a straight bar will allow you to get to a lot of material without the hassle of torquing to the side. Used together, you can get to most places.

Good luck.

[Mike Ramsey]

Welcome to the Creek Cody!
I have a medium size Sorby but only tried it for about 30 seconds
before I decided that this was another learning curve that I didn't
have time for! I will go back to it when I have the time. Sounds
like Mr. Hart has got it down though!

[Jim Becker]

Welcome, Cody.

When using hollowing tools, it's very easy to get too agressive, especially in the beginning. Light cuts with a sharp cutter are the key. (Sharpening is done with a diamond hone on the TOP of the cutter...avoid the grinder as much as possible as the small cutters grind off very quickly) Orientation of the cutter to the area you are cutting is also important, so hollowing is best done in steps (even when doing final clean-up) so that you don't have a boo-boo destroy your hard work.

One other thing...you really cannot effectively use the curved tool to get started hollowing a piece...you need the straight tool, also.

Lastly...these cutters are primarily designed for hollowing end-grain and don't work as well or as easily if your blank is mounted in "face plate" orientation with the grain across the axis of the spindles.

[Cody Colston]

Thanks, all for the welcome and the tips. I'll try them out today and probably get the straight tool to go with this curved one, too.

Cody

[Jim Becker]

To be clear about my comment about needed the straight tool (of some form....doesn't have to be the Sorby)...you use the straight tool first to do your boring (with or without a starter hole and use it for anwhere you can actually reach with it. The straight tool is always more stable than the curved tool, even when the latter is made correctly so the tip is in line with the majority of the tool/handle.

The Sorby multi-tip tools also have two sides to them...a flat side and a curved side. The flat side may appear to be easier to use since it rides flat on the rest, but the curved side allows to to make a shearing cut which can be smoother, particularly for finishing cuts.