TS Aligner Jr.

[Don Dean]

If you own a TS Aligner Jr. which dail indicator did you choose and how do you like the indicator? Also, how so you like your TS Aligner Jr.? Looking at buying one this month.

[Jim Becker]

Don, I have a quick review (http://sawsndust.com/r-tsalignerjr.htm) of the TS Aligner on my site.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have a TS-Aligner Jr. with the standard dial gauge. I use it occasionally to set up tools, and it works exactly as advertised. This is the type of tool you can live without, but it is nice to have in your arsenal, if you don't mind spending the money once. It is a high quality device, and the customer service has been great when I needed it.

ps - the posts below reminded me that when I bought mine, the only option was what is now the less expensive dial gauge.

[Don Frambach]

When I got my TS-Aligner Jr. several years ago, I think it only came with one dial indicator (a 1" inexpensive indicator). It works fine for me.

[Mark Carlson]

I've had mine for a couple of years. There was no choice of dial indicator at that time. It works as advertised and I'm glad I bought it.

~mark

[Corvin Alstot]

This is the type of tool you can live without . . . Dave, what would you use to square up you table saw if you did not have the TS Aligner Jr. Is there something I am missing or are there cheaper/better alternatives?

[John Russell]

I have the jr model with the Fowler gauge. Although I don't use it that often, I am glad to have it in my tool kit. It works for me and I feel it is a good investment if you need a relatively easy to use tool that is accurate.

[David Klug]

Don it's interesting that you brought this up. Just last night I was looking at them on the net. That is a great reveiw Jim. Thanks alot for posting it.

DK

[Dave Falkenstein]

Dave, what would you use to square up you table saw if you did not have the TS Aligner Jr. Is there something I am missing or are there cheaper/better alternatives?

Howard Acheson posted this shop-made method of aligning a table saw several times over the past few years:

Aligning a Table Saw the Inexpensive Way
Howard Acheson

Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a table saw that I learned maybe forty years ago and teach to my students now.

Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head wood screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

You can also use the same gauge to measure blade run-out by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

[Corvin Alstot]

Dave/
Excellant tip. It also fits my price range.

Corvin

[Don Frambach]

I have found the TS-Aligner Jr. most useful for setting my table saw blade to the correct angle (usually 90 degrees). It takes less than a minute and is exactly on (to woodworking tolerances) without any test cuts.

[Don Dean]

Thanks for all your input. I ordered a Jr. yesterday.