Laminating Wood

[Jerry Bittner]

The plan for the cabinet I'm builidng calls for a top of 1 and 1/4 inch thick x 13 x 38"

I do not have red oak stock that thick and plan to simply laminate (glue) two layers of 3/4 thick stock and then plane to the desired thickness. (I have boards that will meet the width specs.)

Am I missing something? Is there to this than meets the eye?

[Kent Parker]

I guess I would ask, will 13" (or slightly more) fit your planer? 13" is the finished size yes? So your pieces should be slightly wider to accomodate glue slipage during clamping.

Depending on the grain of your pieces, I'd be tempted to cut the width in half, flip one piece over and reglue prior to gluing up the two layers. Might prevent cupping and glue failure in the long run.

Another though, if the top is not going to be seen, could you use the 4/4 stock with a wide fore edge? Visualy it would still appear thick.

Otherwise... glue away:)

Cheers,

Kent

[Jerry Bittner]

I guess I would ask, will 13" (or slightly more) fit your planer? 13" is the finished size yes? So your pieces should be slightly wider to accomodate glue slipage during clamping.

Depending on the grain of your pieces, I'd be tempted to cut the width in half, flip one piece over and reglue prior to gluing up the two layers. Might prevent cupping and glue failure in the long run.

Another though, if the top is not going to be seen, could you use the 4/4 stock with a wide fore edge? Visualy it would still appear thick.

Otherwise... glue away:)

Cheers,

Kent

Actuallly, Kent, the width is slighlty less than 13" and my planer willl accomodate up to 13". And since this cabinets stands about 3' tall, the top will be very visible.

I appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks

[tod evans]

jerry, sounds like you have a plan.. if you have a vacuum bag it makes doing face lamination really easy. if not it`s a good excuse for more clamps! and no there`s not more than meets the eye......02 tod

[Tony Falotico]

Jerry, why waste the bottom layer of 3/4 stock, I would consider the 3/4 top glued to 1/2" mdf/plywood/chipboard and edge banded with the red oak. The edge banding can be laminate thin or as thick as you want with mitered corners (or whatever joint you prefer).

[Quinn McCarthy]

How about having a quarter sawn top. Take the 4/4 inch boards and rip them to 1 1/4" plus little to plane off and turn the boards 90 degrees and glue the boards together. With the tangential grain oriented face up you will have a lot less movement in the boards. Depending on the species you could get some pretty grain showing up. Just another idea.