What am i doing wrong?

[Robert Flowers]

I just got both LV side-clamping honing guide and Short-Blade Honing Guide. The side clamp is great, but I am having a issue with the short blade guide. I'm scraping the coating off the bottom. I put a skew plane iron in set it to 25deg. started flatting the angle in some sandpaper flipped it over to check my progress and saw this. Do I need to stick the iron out more or pull it back in?
457115457117457116

[Bill Carey]

I'M having the same issue. Curious what others have to say.

[Derek Cohen]

Are you setting up the blade projection correctly - as per instructions? :)

Specifically, that the projection is set per blade thickness. How thick is the blade you are sharpening? Can you match it to a projection setting?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Flowers]

The blade is 1/8" thick, butted to the 1/8 line https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=457117&d=1620261146&thumb=1 set on 25deg.

Robert

[Bill Carey]

Are you setting up the blade projection correctly - as per instructions? :)

Specifically, that the projection is set per blade thickness. How thick is the blade you are sharpening? Can you match it to a projection setting?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I set the blade using the 1/8 guide. The chisel is 3/16 and when I set it using the 1/4 guide, it's all good. But the angle will be approx 27 degrees or so it seems. Just took a quick look and will have to run thru the stones to know for sure, but it's a 1/4" skewed chisel I use for cleaning DT's so a few degrees won't matter to me.

Thx Derek.

[David Bassett]

Robert, I'm not clear on your details. From your first picture I'm assuming you blackened the bevel ("sharpie trick") and have honed the bevel face without reaching the edge. (If I'm off track, never mind. Just move along.)

If I'm right, I can think of a couple possible causes. First, if there is a micro-bevel from the previous sharpening, everything might be fine except you haven't removed it to reach the edge yet. (Coarser grit stone to start?)

Maybe more likely is the 25-deg on the blade and jig don't match exactly. 24.5 to 25.5 shouldn't perform differently in any noticeable way and I bet you could shift the jigs setting by 0.5-deg with just a little more or less pressure. Anyway, to reach the edge you need to grind more to reset the angle or steepen the angle "just enough" to reach the tip instead of resting on the heal of the bevel. (If I'm doing the mental gymnastics correctly, you'd want to retract the blade, just slightly, to adjust its angle in the jig.) Since the value of the jig is its repeatability, if I were using it, I'd want to adjust the iron to it and just keep going to reset the bevel to whatever the jig thinks is 25-deg. Again, a coarser stone, (sandpaper, diamond plate, or whatever,) for what should be a one time adjustment would speed things up.

[Robert Flowers]

David;
I not worried about the bevel on the iron. I'm talking about the bottom of the jig. I'm wearing away the bottom of the jig! Look at the first picture you will see that the bottom of the jig is rubbing on the stone and this is the first time I'm using it. I need to make sure I not screwing up the jig.

Robert

[Rafael Herrera]

Extend the blade 1 mm out, the guide will be raised a small amount.

How old is your guide? If you have worn away at the brass cylinder, that may account for the lack of clearance of the guide.

[Richard Verwoest]

Where did you measure that blade? I think it is a tapered blade. Maybe use the 3/16 notch?

[Robert Flowers]

Rafael it's the new LV short blade honing guide. I've got it last week.

[Ed Mitchell]

If you feel you've set it up correctly, maybe call LV. Their customer service is really good.

[Jim Koepke]

My best guess is since it is skewed it is making an angle less than 25º due to the skew.

You might try a different method to set up the blade by eye:

457187

This was done by setting the bevel flat on a piece of flat tile. If nothing else this would reveal if the guide is hitting the surface.

There may also be some flex in the set up. The older blades had a thin piece of hardened steel laminated to softer steel.

Another thought, your sandpaper may be bowing in front of and behind the blade while you are working if it isn't backed with pressure sensitive adhesive.

A couple of my blade holders have also lost some of their coating from hitting the abrasive. It doesn't diminish their ability to do the job.


jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Here is another way to do the job. Note that this is not a general recommendation - the method outlined by Veritas is the best way.

When I was sent the guide for pre-production testing, the projection setter was left out of the package in oversight. I must have scratched my head for a few weeks trying to work out how this bloody jig worked! :) There were no instructions to guide me.

In the end, I set it up using some if the presets I had for one of my other guides, in this case the LN guide (the angle chosen was the closest one to hand) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/MGWtVMtQ/5.jpg

This worked well. If you are struggling with the factory projection device (it can be a fiddle), then this is the alternative.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Flowers]

I took the skew blade out put in a 1/8" thick old Stanley spokeshave on the 30deg. side put it on my diamond stones and it is doing the same. I must be doing something wrong, But I just can't see it! So I put it away for now I will try to use Derek's trick this weekend. Right now I'm tired and frustrated, its one of those simple things that I can get to work out and it drives me nuts.
Thanks for everyone help I appreciate it .

Robert