Short Stroke Sliding Table Saw or ?

[Lisa Starr]

I recently sold an asset that will allow me to upgrade my table saw, so I'm trying to decipher the market.

My older Grizzly Cabinet saw, with an outfeed table occupies a 5' square space. Additionally, I have 9' on the operator side for ripping 8' stock. I have to open the doors on the outfeed side to rip anything over 7'. The existing setup sits with the left side near a wall.

After spending several hours, it seems that it is impossible to figure out the space a slider actually takes up when not in use. Perhaps I'm just too unfamiliar to understand the terminology, but I simply can't seem to locate the info.

I'd like to have a minimum of 25" rip capacity to the right of the blade, and a minimum of 5' cross cut length. I'd need enough slider travel to cross cut 25".

Does such a beast exist?
Would a slider attachment on my existing saw allow the same?

As I see it, adding to my existing saw leaves me with all the same drawbacks (poor dust collection, no riving knife). If I can fit a slider into my shop will it address these issues?

Thanks for your insight.

[Peter Kelly]

With the outrigger removed, a slider with 60" of travel doesn't take up much more space in the shop than a cabinet saw. I've tried attachments from Excalibur and Jess Em on a Unisaw and no, they aren't at all comparable to the format-style SCM SC2c or C26g that I currently own. Would certainly recommend either machine.

https://www.scmgroup.com/en_US/scmwood/products/joinery-machines.c884/universal-combined-machines.887/minimax-c-26g.660
https://www.scmgroup.com/en_US/scmwood/products/joinery-machines.c884/sliding-table-saws.896/minimax-sc-2g.706

[Richard Link]

I previously had a saw stop with a Jessem sliding table which was quite nice but in no way shape or form even in the same universe as my Felder sliding saw. I would second that the saw doesn't take up much more space if you remove the outrigger. Felder has a little trolley that makes removing it pretty easy (although I don't have one). The length of the sliding table can be variable. if you really want a minimum of a 5' crosscut length and 25" rip capacity you will be much more happy with a full size slider. When I want to process a full 4x8 sheet of plywood the saw can do that but can be contracted down to take up less space for smaller jobs.

[Jim Becker]

There have actually been a few threads lately on this subject that will be helpful to you I suspect.

I'm personally likely moving to a short stroke slider when I get the new shop built here in our new property...probably an SCM/Minimax SC-3C. I'll not go back to a "cabinet saw" from a slider at this point, although I may need to acquire something small to tide me over for narrow ripping for the 6-12 months I estimate I'll have my shop in a 21x21 temporary space. (AKA...the garage)

The comments about removing any outrigger when it's not in use are spot on...they are generally easy to attach and detach and are designed to maintain registration, too., on a quality saw.

[Richard Link]

Lisa,

Just one other thing. If you haven't had any experience with a true full sized sliding saw - it's really an epiphany. Working with a decent sized sliding saw with air clamps is so far beyond the standard American cabinet saw for many tasks (perhaps not all). The key is just not to try to replicate every operation the same way you do on the cabinet saw. There are a few easy to make jigs that also add a lot of value. The Fritz and Franz jig being the one that comes to mind first. I really haven't found anything I do that I wish I had my old Sawstop for these days and I've had the slider shoehorned into a two car garage for 10 years. With that said, a bit more space around the saw would be most welcome to take advantage of it's full capacity.

Rick

[Jacques Gagnon]

I recently sold an asset that will allow me to upgrade my table saw, so I'm trying to decipher the market.

My older Grizzly Cabinet saw, with an outfeed table occupies a 5' square space. Additionally, I have 9' on the operator side for ripping 8' stock. I have to open the doors on the outfeed side to rip anything over 7'. The existing setup sits with the left side near a wall.

After spending several hours, it seems that it is impossible to figure out the space a slider actually takes up when not in use. Perhaps I'm just too unfamiliar to understand the terminology, but I simply can't seem to locate the info.

I'd like to have a minimum of 25" rip capacity to the right of the blade, and a minimum of 5' cross cut length. I'd need enough slider travel to cross cut 25".

Does such a beast exist?
Would a slider attachment on my existing saw allow the same?

As I see it, adding to my existing saw leaves me with all the same drawbacks (poor dust collection, no riving knife). If I can fit a slider into my shop will it address these issues?

Thanks for your insight.


Lisa,

I can easily relate to your query. I am one of many who have asked themselves the same questions and have pondered about various scenarios in recent months. I am a hobbyist working in a 14x20 feet work space. I have chosen to order (which has yet to arrive :o) a Hammer B3 with a 2050mm (79 inches) sliding carriage. The model I chose will have a 1300mm (51 inch) cutting capacity on the right side of the blade.

Precise drawings helped me compare the various configurations I was debating. When comparing the B3 with my existing cabinet saw, which also has 51 inch capacity to the right of the blade, the foot print of the new machine is actually slightly narrower (the sliding table to the left of the blade is narrower than the left wing on my cabinet saw). The sliding carriage will extend at both ends on the left side of the machine, but I suspect that I will get used fairly quickly to this (particularly in light of the fact that I will be working from the side and not the back of the machine).

As stated by Jim, there have been numerous threads on this subject. In addition to Peter, Richard and Jim, many people have contributed to conversations on this subject. Various brands of equipment are available. Both Rod Sheridan and Derek Cohen own a shorter version of the slider (I believe theirs are 1300mm) and report to be quite happy with their choice. Your choice will be guided by the type of work you do. If ever at some point you need to handle long pieces you may resort to making a platform that sits on the sliding carriage and allows for cuts longer than the carriage.

I am not associated to Felder or draw any benefit from my input in this conversation. I hope these few lines are helpful.

Regards,

J.

[Warren Lake]

paid less for a good used slider than an Exaclibur sliding table woud cost. Saw is 1,300 lbs and five ways better than a cabinet saw including up to a 16" blade max, 14" with scoring, 3 speeds and awesome dust collection plus on this type I can still rip the way I always have, using the fence, its faster.

Layout into other machines will help as one supports the other, have left it 50 plus inches for now and its burried beside the radial arm with the radial arm table being support for the fence if I ever do need that capacity and in the past have. Like always depends on what you build and want to build.

[Matthew Hills]

Lisa,
I'd recommend watching this video on K3 dimensions:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB-0mms4PeM

Matt

[Jacques Gagnon]

Good suggestion Matthew.

J.

[Rod Sheridan]

As Jacques indicated I have a short stroke slider (Hammer B3 Winner Comfort) that will rip about 32” and crosscut a sheet of plywood

It’s slightly smaller than the cabinet saw it replaced.

You could never convince me to go back to a cabinet saw, and having a tilting spindle, sliding table shaper is icing on the cake.

I can post some photos if you want....Rod

[Lisa Starr]

Rod, Photos would be great. After watching Matt's video, I'm thinking it just won't fit in my shop, though everyone says it takes the same space as a cabinet saw. Perhaps I just don't understand them well enough.

[Ralph Okonieski]

Here is a photo of my Minimax C26. From the end of the rip fence on the left (from this viewpoint) to the end of the crosscut slider on the right, is 75 inches. As you can see, my shop is small. I put casters on the machine so it can easily be rotated if necessary. I am very happy with my setup and would not return to a cabinet type saw. Nothing wrong with them, just this one fits my style well.

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/44e7feb5-aeaf-4e2b-aa3f-68e7e23a6aedhttps://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/ef3d2a63-a211-4376-8513-d1d5bf228b27https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/5cb3e36a-3b57-4d7b-9906-297258e4d279https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/7e6bf119-423a-402d-a1bb-4cc976a49572I must be doing something wrong as the photo does not appear. Sorry.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Rod, Photos would be great. After watching Matt's video, I'm thinking it just won't fit in my shop, though everyone says it takes the same space as a cabinet saw. Perhaps I just don't understand them well enough.

Lisa:

Short of photos (other members will likely pitch in), here are some measurements taken from the manufacturer's data. Although this is for a Hammer unit, I suspect that measurements will not vary significantly with other manufacturers, as long as the table and sliding carriage sizes are similar.

On a Hammer B3/K3 (one with a spindle, the other without) the 1250mm (49 inches) carriage will travel 770mm (30 inches) on the outfeed side and 907mm (35.7 inches) on the infeed side. When the sliding carriage is "resting" in the middle, the machine occupies a space of about 52 inches wide (this measure is taken at the end of the fence rail) and a length of 49 inches.

My current cabinet saw has a footprint of 59 inches wide (when calculating 32 inches to the left of the blade) by 32 inches deep. In other words, a short slider will be slightly narrower (52 inches vs 59 inches) for a given space left of the blade and, slightly longer (17 inches or so) on longitudinal axis (this is essentially determined by the length of the carriage). Some models may possibly offer machines with a slightly smaller footprint, but I do not have information on this.

I hope this helps,

J.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Ralph:

It appears I was typing while you posted your information.

J.

[Peter Kelly]

https://youtu.be/sLCaS9oLcjU

Format saws can fit in some surprisingly small shop spaces.

[Lisa Starr]

I want to thank everyone for their helpful input. Due to the unique shape of my shop, I'm fairly sure I could squeak a small one in without an outrigger. I'm not sure it would serve my purposes without the outrigger though. I simply do not have more than 7-8 feet of width the saw can occupy. So many of the photos look like they are smaller, but when I lookup the dimensions of the saw, they aren't.

Again, Thank you

[Mike Kreinhop]

I was fortunate, in a bizarre way, when I built my basement shop because cabinet saws were not available from any vendor. Apparently, there is no market for them in Germany and the only choices were portable contractor saws or sliders. Once I decided on the SCM SC2C, I started laying out my 4.5 x 5 meter (about 241 square feet) shop in SketchUp to ensure I could position all of the equipment and still be functional. The SC2C dominates the floor space, but three years later, I have no regrets. I thought I would be removing the outrigger when not needed, but I only removed it once when I adjusted the sliding table.


https://live.staticflickr.com/4772/25951637707_7771c359a1_c.jpg


My shop does not allow me to rip a full sheet of plywood, or anything longer than 2.2 meters; however, I can easily crosscut a full sheet. Since the basement is below grade and three of the four shop walls are cast in place concrete, I had to work within the original building constraints. The arbor of the SC2C is in the middle of the five-meter distance between the walls, and there is no way to start a full sheet. Fortunately, I have a track saw when I need to rip anything longer than 2.2 meters.

Aside from one sheet that I had to rip in the garage, the 11 sheets of 19mm plywood used to make the miter saw workstation in the drawing were cut in the shop using the SC2C as shown in the SketchUp drawing and the image below.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49981180958_6295d8a543_c.jpg


Before giving up on the possibility of short-stroke slider, I recommend laying out your shop in the CADD program of your choice. You might be surprised at what you can do with a blank slate approach. I use the free version of SketchUp Make 2017 on my Mac, and can import tools and equipment from several libraries. I had to build the SC2C model, but imported the other tools in the drawing.

[Joe Hendershott]

I'd like to have a minimum of 25" rip capacity to the right of the blade, and a minimum of 5' cross cut length. I'd need enough slider travel to cross cut 25".


Thanks for your insight.

Plenty of good advice so far. I think you might be disappointed with just a sliding table add on. I agree the numbers on the various sites make it difficult to visualize the exact space needed on the floor.

I have the Minimax 4e, which is larger, but I believe the actual saw 'cabinet' size is similar to others. If you can wait a couple of days I can get some photos with actual measurements to see. The way mine goes together the table to the right attaches to the main cast saw cabinet. If you do not need 50 inches then that could be left off.

For each machine you look at get some scrap you can cut to those dimensions and lay them on the floor. I agree with Mike about doing a Sketchup layout but if you like to see things in the actual shop then just lay some scraps on the floor.

[Mick Simon]

+1 for Mike's recommendation of laying it out in CAD. My "machine room" is 23 x 24. I fit in and use a SCM SC 4E (102" slider) along with two 20" bandsaws, a Hammer A3-41 16" J/P, drill press, 6 x 89" osc edge sander, 19" drum sander, a lathe, Pantarouter, hollow chisel mortiser, router table, sharpening station and sink station with mini fridge.

I laid it out about 29 different ways in CAD before pulling the trigger, but it works and works really well.

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[Joe Hendershott]

+1 for Mike's recommendation of laying it out in CAD. My "machine room" is 23 x 24. I fit in and use a SCM SC 4E (102" slider) along with two 20" bandsaws, a Hammer A3-41 16" J/P, drill press, 6 x 89" osc edge sander, 19" drum sander, a lathe, Pantarouter, hollow chisel mortiser, router table, sharpening station and sink station with mini fridge.

I laid it out about 29 different ways in CAD before pulling the trigger, but it works and works really well.

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There you go! That's a great illustration of how much space it takes up. Very nice. I like that out feed table too. The one that came with my 4e is not very functional.

[Derek Cohen]

I recently sold an asset that will allow me to upgrade my table saw, so I'm trying to decipher the market.

My older Grizzly Cabinet saw, with an outfeed table occupies a 5' square space. Additionally, I have 9' on the operator side for ripping 8' stock. I have to open the doors on the outfeed side to rip anything over 7'. The existing setup sits with the left side near a wall.

After spending several hours, it seems that it is impossible to figure out the space a slider actually takes up when not in use. Perhaps I'm just too unfamiliar to understand the terminology, but I simply can't seem to locate the info.

I'd like to have a minimum of 25" rip capacity to the right of the blade, and a minimum of 5' cross cut length. I'd need enough slider travel to cross cut 25".

Does such a beast exist?
Would a slider attachment on my existing saw allow the same?

As I see it, adding to my existing saw leaves me with all the same drawbacks (poor dust collection, no riving knife). If I can fit a slider into my shop will it address these issues?

Thanks for your insight.

Lisa, this is a photo of the K3 slider shortly after it was installed. The rip fence is 31" and the wagon is 49" long. Overall, it has a smaller footprint than the contractor saw it replaced ...

https://i.postimg.cc/XJTP8ySS/1.jpg

Keep in mind that I work exclusively with solid wood. I do not build with sheets of ply or MDF. This saw takes care of all ripping and crosscutting .. and more ...

The outfeed houses a router table, which saves space ...

https://i.postimg.cc/y6FXwqhW/RTF1a.jpg

This parallel guide is better than a Fritz and Frans! ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_m38e99eb.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod, Photos would be great. After watching Matt's video, I'm thinking it just won't fit in my shop, though everyone says it takes the same space as a cabinet saw. Perhaps I just don't understand them well enough.

Hi Lisa, I suggest that you spend some time thinking about this and watching videos on the use of a format saw.

The machine is the same size as a regular saw, and uses the saw infeed and outfeed room as a conventional saw.

Normally I make solid wood furniture so the outrigger isn't on the saw, it hangs on the wall. It goes back on the saw in about 2 minutes, no tools or calibration required. It will support a sheet of ply for crosscutting, or a dining room table top, then it goes back on the wall.

You will be making a big mistake by not going with a small slider instead of a cabinet saw, in my opinion.

Regards, Rod.

[Peter Kelly]

I want to thank everyone for their helpful input. Due to the unique shape of my shop, I'm fairly sure I could squeak a small one in without an outrigger. I'm not sure it would serve my purposes without the outrigger though. I simply do not have more than 7-8 feet of width the saw can occupy. So many of the photos look like they are smaller, but when I lookup the dimensions of the saw, they aren't.

Again, Thank youAs in Rod and Derek's photos, many woodworkers often use short-stroke sliders with just a mitre fence and a support table in lieu of a full outrigger. I've actually fitted a Felder fence to my SC2c though I've seen Incra ones fitted to them as well.

https://i.imgur.com/DXzSFDx.jpg

[David M Peters]

I'll cast another vote for a short-stroke slider being quite handy. I have a discontinued Grizzly model, the G700, outfitted with an Incra telescoping fence plus a DIY baby side support table. Do get/build a side support table, it makes it so much easier to handle larger pieces.

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[Jacques Gagnon]

Lisa, this is a photo of the K3 slider shortly after it was installed. The rip fence is 31" and the wagon is 49" long. Overall, it has a smaller footprint than the contractor saw it replaced ...

https://i.postimg.cc/XJTP8ySS/1.jpg

Keep in mind that I work exclusively with solid wood. I do not build with sheets of ply or MDF. This saw takes care of all ripping and crosscutting .. and more ...

The outfeed houses a router table, which saves space ...

https://i.postimg.cc/y6FXwqhW/RTF1a.jpg

This parallel guide is better than a Fritz and Frans! ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_m38e99eb.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek:

Nice design (and craftsmanship) on your parallel guide. Do you just drop the guide bar into the sliding table or do you have a «profile » that slides into the rail?

Regards,

J.

[Matthew Hills]

I was fortunate, in a bizarre way, when I built my basement shop because cabinet saws were not available from any vendor. Apparently, there is no market for them in Germany and the only choices were portable contractor saws or sliders. Once I decided on the SCM SC2C, I started laying out my 4.5 x 5 meter (about 241 square feet) shop in SketchUp to ensure I could position all of the equipment and still be functional.

Mike, why did you orient your saw that way, rather than with the right edge of the table up against a wall? (I'd think you'd want to maximize the space to the left of your sliding table?)

Matt

[Mike Kreinhop]

Mike, why did you orient your saw that way, rather than with the right edge of the table up against a wall? (I'd think you'd want to maximize the space to the left of your sliding table?)

Matt

I thought about this, but some of the plywood vendors sell strange sizes, such as 1.5 x 3 meters and 2.5 x 5 meters. The normal size for plywood and MDF sheet goods is 1.25 x 2.5 meters (about 4x8 feet), but if what I want isn't in stock, I will buy the larger size. If I placed the saw with the right end of the rip fence guide against the wall, I would be restricted to 1.16 meter crosscuts. As it is now, I can easily crosscut a 3-meter length in half.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek:
Nice design (and craftsmanship) on your parallel guide. Do you just drop the guide bar into the sliding table or do you have a «profile » that slides into the rail?

Regards,

J.

Thanks Jacques

The near end of the parallel guide is aligned with the zero clearance end of the crosscut fence ..

https://i.postimg.cc/1RwPMNP9/Parallel-Guide-For-K3-Slider-html-1fdf2a4a.jpg

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/928b00ea-b4d0-40a2-b041-318e6964be34
https://i.postimg.cc/CL40pTzX/Parallel-Guide-For-K3-Slider-html-m60c2d68d.jpg
https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/545e1e2f-08ef-4cbd-950e-dd9155e97217

The other end has a “key” which drops into the slot to set it 99% in position. I then give it a tiny nudge against a blade tooth. Both ends are locked down with bolts.

Article here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...rK3Slider.html (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jacques Gagnon]

[/COLOR]
Thanks Jacques

The near end of the parallel guide is aligned with the zero clearance end of the crosscut fence ..

https://i.postimg.cc/1RwPMNP9/Parallel-Guide-For-K3-Slider-html-1fdf2a4a.jpg

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/928b00ea-b4d0-40a2-b041-318e6964be34
https://i.postimg.cc/CL40pTzX/Parallel-Guide-For-K3-Slider-html-m60c2d68d.jpg
https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/545e1e2f-08ef-4cbd-950e-dd9155e97217

The other end has a “key” which drops into the slot to set it 99% in position. I then give it a tiny nudge against a blade tooth. Both ends are locked down with bolts.

Article here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...rK3Slider.html (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you Sir!

J.

[Lisa Starr]

Thanks to Mike, and others, prodding me make a 3D CAD drawing of my shop, I now have a much better understanding of the flaws of my current layout and a number of improvements that could be made that will allow me to place a compact slider in my shop!

This morning I actually tackled moving the SCMS and Band saw to the new locations identified with the plan. That alone took a relatively useless "dead space" and made it productive. With a few more tweaks, that I will only make if I sell my existing saw and replace with a slider, the shop will be more functional than it is now.

At the moment, I'm leaning toward the Minimax SC2C or SC3C, but am also going to get info for the Hammer machines.

Keep the suggestions coming, and thank you.

[Jim Becker]

For the SCM/Minimax machines, if you order the "more readily available bundles" that tend to be stocked from the factory here in the US, the SC-3C is the "better buy" once you consider accessories...like the short miter fence which I would not be without. The SC-2C doesn't come with many accessories in the "stocked" configuration while the SC-3C comes "loaded. Sam Blasco tipped me off on this a couple of months ago. I'll be ordering an SC-3C to replace the larger slider I have now once my new shop is built. (sold the larger S315WS so I didn't have to pay to store it for as much as a year...)

BTW, you can use your existing 5/8" arbor blades on the SC-2C and SC-3C machines, although upgrading to 12" blades when you wear the 10" blades out is a good move.

[Lisa Starr]

Thank you Jim! I'm planning on going to see a SC-3C in person next week. Assuming I see what I'm expecting, I'll probably purchase either a SC-2C or SC-3C. The foot print will likely be the deciding factor. I'm also looking at the Hammer K3 Winner, but am awaiting info from my representative. The ability to use my existing saw blades is a huge plus for SCM. Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?

[Kevin Jenness]

Jim, why are you downsizing your saw? Space constraints?

[Mick Simon]

Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?

Most are bored to 1". You can get reducers to ⅝" for $6 or so. https://www.amazon.com/Timberline-Saw-Reducing-Bushing/dp/B000P4NY9K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2VZAT3SELTLP8&dchild=1&keywords=1+to+5%2F8+arbor+bushing&qid=1620435454&sprefix=1%22+-+%E2%85%9D%22+arbor+bushing%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-4

Added plus is that your dado set will work on the saw.

[Erik Loza]

Lisa, your choice on which way to go but if space really is the dealbreaker, your Felder rep can build a K3 with a narrow (31”) rip capcity to the right of the blade. Or no scoring, for that matter. I don’t believe anyone else can offer configurations like this.

Erik

[Lisa Starr]

Thanks Eric. I'm waiting for my rep to get back to me with info/pricing. I'm leaning toward the Minimax right now, but love my A3-31, so will definitely take a hard look at the Hammer.

[Warren Lake]

this is what I meant by combining machines so one becomes the outfeed and support for another. Rail on the SCM saw likely 54 inch or so rip capacity. Ive built tops over 50" before so not sure i wanted to cut it down. Outside room dimensions here are wrong, smaller than ive shown the 22 I think is 19 feet just memory hasnt had coffee yet. I dont believe sliders take less room than cabinet saws they dont.

The thing to note here is P, its a removable panel. I can lift that off to stand and use the radial arm saw. Put it back its support for the slider material and faence. If I get towards the 40"- 50" range then the radial arm table is support for the fence. X are cut outs so if I need to work with up to 16 foot solid I can, Ive made facias for homes a few times and material was all 14 to 16 feet long. This is a third machine room im setting up, temp for now.

This is what I meant by one machine supporting another. Jointer and workbench are support for the radial arm. Takes a bit more care and thought. My first how was a postage stamp with 10 or 11 machines. I had to be set up to build anything doing custom work and that means any saw has to have an outfeed table. I saw an April Wilkerson you tube more near the beginning, no outfeed table, no splitter or riving whtatever. Unsafe stuff from someone who didnt know they didnt know.



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[Jim Becker]

Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?
Nope. 12" Forrest WW=II 48 T from Silvers Mill. But any 12" blade with a typical 1" bore can use a precision bushing for a 5/8" arbor.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, why are you downsizing your saw? Space constraints?

Space and the fact that I don't cut sheet goods on the saw very much. Most cutting is with solid stock. So when I rebuy after having the new shop up, I'm going to the more compact machine based on how I actually use it.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thank you Jim! I'm planning on going to see a SC-3C in person next week. Assuming I see what I'm expecting, I'll probably purchase either a SC-2C or SC-3C. The foot print will likely be the deciding factor. I'm also looking at the Hammer K3 Winner, but am awaiting info from my representative. The ability to use my existing saw blades is a huge plus for SCM. Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?

Lisa, regardless of which saw you buy you'll still be able to use your old blades.

I had all my blades bored out for the 30mm bore and two pins for the Hammer saw, it was under $20 per blade.......Remember that 12' blades with a 5/8" bore aren't a standard item with a few exceptions........Rod.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have owned a Laguna short stroke slider for over 8 years; replaced an older Delta Unisaw (1965 vintage). No problem cross-cutting a 4 X 8 sheet of ply. The cross cutting jig and outrigger jig hangs on the wall 90% of the time and re-installs in less than 2 minutes and I have no regrets getting a short-stroke machine. It also has a 5/8" arbor so blades are easily sourced. I mostly use 12" blades with a 1" arbor hole, but with a spacer to adapt.

[Erik Loza]

My opinion on going with one brand of machine over another just for usability of blades: That's like saying you're going to go Ford over Chevy (or whatever) because the first one will use the rims you already own. You buying rims or you buying a truck? Not to sound cute but that's not a real reason. We use an electric blade brake on all our saws, which is actually a pretty nice safety feature that you can't get on any other machine at this level, so it's not a case of Felder using a different arbor just to be special. Sorry that you have $500 or $1K invested in existing blades. They're just blades, not pets or kids. Like Rod said, get them re-bored or just buy a few new ones. 30mm blades are not more expensive than regular ones and Amazon has plenty if folks don't want to buy from us. In fact, with the market being the way it is right now, if I had a bunch of high-quality 5/8" or 1" blades, I could probably re-sell them for practically what I paid, so what am I actually losing?

Go with whatever brand you like best but if someone makes their final decision based on wanting to use a handful of 12" blades they own, that seems somewhat short-sighted to me. Pretty much every Felder customer I've delivered a saw to has had to spring for a new blade or two. Guess how many complained about that after using their machine? Zero. In fact, they usually say, "This think kicks a***!". Whichever brand, buy the MACHINE, not the tooling. Just my 2-cents.

Erik

[Warren Lake]

never had a need for a brake on a saw or any other machine for that matter, when I shut off a jointer or whatever it winds down and stops.

On my older machines different than this electronic brakes wear capacitors in the roto phase. Used radial came with a short stop, it will be taken off. If you have to wait a couple of seconds for wind down to change blades so what.

The last second or two any machine spinning down lets you hear the bearings. 1" bore on my saw, like all the blades ive bought from auctions.

[Lisa Starr]

Thank you everyone for your help. I sold my current table saw setup this morning and pulled the trigger on the slider. Both machines seem to be quite nice, but after weighing the different variables, chose a SCM/Minimax. I really appreciate all the input you offered. I owe an extra thank you to Mike for suggesting sketching my shop in CAD. It made it obvious that some re-arranging was in order and that I could fit a slider in my shop.

[Rod Sheridan]

Lisa, once you learn how to use it you will love having one....Rod

[Lisa Starr]

Thanks Rod. Your photos were a great help.

[Jacob Mac]

Which Minimax did you get?

[Jim Becker]

My opinion on going with one brand of machine over another just for usability of blades: That's like saying you're going to go Ford over Chevy (or whatever) because the first one will use the rims you already own.
Erik

I can appreciate your point, Erik, and yes, ultimately, the right machine choice based on a wide variety of characteristics and suitability for the need is always the primary focus. That said, for some, the ability to use blades and dado sets that either already exist in one's shop or share the same common arbor characteristics with non-sliders can be a plus. Is it a primary consideration? Absolutely not. Is it a show-stopper? Absolutely not. Have I personally found it to be an attractive feature. Yes. (I doubt it would ever matter for a business customer for sure)

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Lisa, congratulations on your slider purchase! You're going to enjoy having it in your shop.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Lisa:

Glad to hear the selling phase went well. I am sure you will enjoy your new machine. Good equipment is rarely a hinderance to either enjoyment or quality. :D

Keep us posted.

J.

[Lisa Starr]

Jacob, I went with the SC2C. I located a machine package that is supposed to be available in late June. Since my existing table saw sold so easily, I'm going to be without until it arrives. I have access to a nasty little Hitachi contractors saw if I get in a pinch. But I hate that machine.

[Jacob Mac]

I would be interested in hearing how you like the machine, and what you think of the transition to a slider. I've been kicking around getting an SC3C or 2C.