What to do with end grain eucalyptus

[Paul Williams]

One of my wife's relatives shipped me 5 flat rate boxes of eucalyptus because when we were in California a few years ago I made comments about wishing I had my chain saw with me. Unfortunately they are slices through the trunk not cut along the grain as I would cut for a bowl blank. They are cracking on the edges. So far no cracks in the center. She did paint thick coats of latex on both ends. I cut a 5 1/2 inch cube and turned a three corner bowl. Very wet still but turned beautifully. So how about some ideas on what to turn with round slices through the trunk other than small boxes or pen blanks. I am going to try one larger bowl turned spindle orientation, just to see what happens as it dries. I would appreciate ideas on how to use this wood.

[John K Jordan]

One of my wife's relatives shipped me 5 flat rate boxes of eucalyptus because when we were in California a few years ago I made comments about wishing I had my chain saw with me. Unfortunately they are slices through the trunk not cut along the grain as I would cut for a bowl blank. They are cracking on the edges. So far no cracks in the center. She did paint thick coats of latex on both ends. I cut a 5 1/2 inch cube and turned a three corner bowl. Very wet still but turned beautifully. So how about some ideas on what to turn with round slices through the trunk other than small boxes or pen blanks. I am going to try one larger bowl turned spindle orientation, just to see what happens as it dries. I would appreciate ideas on how to use this wood.

I would probably cut the slices into smaller blanks to avoid the existing cracks and seal the endgrain with Anchorseal. The common thinking is latex paint is not the best for sealing. I personally would cut blanks and dry them before turning. 2x2, 3x3, etc. (I'd probably make small boxes too!) I'm not familiar with green eucalyptus but for drying many species it's best to avoid the pith as well. If you turn larger things thin enough while green, cracking while drying is often not a problem, at least with some species.

If the slices are 5-1/2" thick that is enough for lots of smaller things usually turned with end grain blanks like finger tops, bottle stoppers, ornaments, weed pots, and such. And, of course, spheres.

Maybe send a few small things to the relative!

I've personally haven't yet turned eucalyptus but I have a variety of blanks drying on the shelf.

JKJ

[Dave Mount]

You can definitely turn bowls in end-grain orientation I think that's what you mean by spindle orientation. The cutting geometry is different of course, so the downhill cutting direction is the opposite of normal; for the outside of the bowl, rim to bottom is downhill, whereas on the interior bottom to rim is downhill. You're basically making an endgrain box with a really wide mouth.

Of course, I have to mention spheres. There are lots of Eucalyptus species, but the sphere below is made from one of them (I don't know which). I often turn spheres green, coat them with anchorseal and put them in a paper bag to dry. Because of the drying distortion you have to re-turn them after they're dry, but they dry much faster as spheres than as whole blanks.

And I wouldn't dis endgrain boxes. You can make some pretty big ones from the blanks you describe. My wife likes these simple cylindrical boxes more than about anything else. Not sure why, but they give her great pleasure. Not too challenging from a turning standpoint, but. . .

With green blanks the size of yours, you can also do cross grain boxes -- I think with eucalyptus, having the top of the box be face grain might be more attractive than end grain. With green wood, I make these by turning a cylinder with the blank in what would ordinarily be a "bowl" orientation. Put a tenon on both ends so you can get hold of it after it dries. Cut a slab off one end that will end up being your lid, then hollow the bottom as a bowl with vertical sides, with extra thickness to allow for drying distortion as you would for a regular bowl. Remount after drying and turn true, shape, and remove the tenons. Example in maple below.

Best,

Dave

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[Paul Williams]

John and Dave, thanks for the input. The three corner bowl I turned the day I received the wood has really moved around while drying. It is going to be interesting looking when it settles down. I have been playing with spheres lately, but never thought of turning green and returning after dry. I will try, just to see how it works out. Dave, I really liked the looks of the sapele box you posted a few weeks ago.