vintage Craftsman radial arm saw tune-up/upgrade

[Mark Mrsa]

To all vintage Craftsman power tool owners/woodworkers who love to bring tools to life, for information and guidance:
I own a 1965 Craftsman 10" radial arm saw, model number 113.29410. My father bought this new and to my knowledge never used it. It sat in my garage for 25 years after my father's death in 1996. In 2019, I discarded the metal cabinet and mounted it on a Kreg Tool universal bench frame, disassembled it to return it to working order (the original machine grease had hardened), and made a new MDF cutting table to match the original one.
Here are my questions:
1. I understand there was a recall on this model in the 1980's for the blade guard assembly. In researching this issue, I found that the company that was manufacturing and providing the replacement kit to Craftsman owners is no longer producing the kit. Does anyone know of the kit's availability?
2. I plan on using the machine for cross cutting and am aware of the controversey related to the danger of ripping wood stock. In viewing videos demonstrating tuning up this power tool, some people have made their own new cutting table, always with 90 and 45 degree cuts into the cutting table. I don't understand the reason for this. Is it neccessary to make these cuts?
3. I understand the fence is scarificial, but I plan on putting a tape measure on the top of the fence for left and right cross cuts. Does anyone one have an alternative fence design to incorporate measuring tape and avoid the fence from being scarificial?
4. Right now all of the component parts are in working order. Some parts though show there age and are not worth the time to refurish. I know Craftsman has a parts website for some of the most commonly requested parts, but does anyone know of sites/companies that I could research for a wider availability of parts?
5. Are the any suggestion for tuning up this tool that I should consider? Any specific blade type (other then for cross cutting) or blade manufacturer that I should consider?
6. In terms of lubricate, the swivel of the radial arm on the adjustable post is the most difficult to do since it requires removal of the end cap and to place a saturated cloth of lubricant on a wooden dowel to lubricate the lock pin. Does anyone have a suggestion for any easier method? This model does not have a slotted cut out of the caste iron arm for easier access to the lock pin.
As with my first posting, regarding a vintage 1965 Caftsman 10" table saw, I look forward to your responses.
Mark Mrsa

[Tom M King]

The bolts that the rollers are mounted on are ecentric. You can play around with them, and get absolutely all the slop out of the slide, as well as get it aligned perfectly.

I don't know about that specific model, but I have a 12" that I bought new in 1973. It's been set up for a couple of decades, for only cutting perfect 90 degree crosscuts. I use it for tenon shoulders, and such.

I never worried about getting the blade guard replace, so don't have any answers about that.

I made a 6' long base for it, as I took it out of the box, and it's still on it. The fence was designed to be replaced easily, as is the top layer of 3/4" Birch plywood. If I put another top on it, which it's about due for, I intend to put a shop made, replaceable zero clearance insert in it.

If you go to all the trouble of getting it to cut perfect cuts, you can't ever let it lock up in anything, or I imagine it would throw it off. I haven't with mine in a couple of decades, at least.

I don't swivel mine. I use a sliding miter saw for those cuts.

It does raise, and lower, and the column gets lubed.

Crosscutting on a table saw scares me. I don't remember the last time I did any crosscutting on a table saw.

There are many good blades.

[Earl McLain]

Best wishes on bringing your father's saw back to life. I've got a 1957 Dewalt GWI that is a daily user and a 1946 Red Star 14" that needs some rehab (Dad brought it home when his factory closed in the early 1960's--even has a Red Star blade on it--which i'll never cut anything with!!). My first RAS was a late-70's Craftsman, i got the recall kit for it and then later sent the head in for a bounty. I do have the blade guard in the garage somewhere--i can try to find this weekend on the off chance it would fit yours as well. In all candor--i don't think the upgrade looked or felt any safer, proper blade and good technique is much more valuable.
While it's geared toward Dewalt saws, i'd suggest a copy of Wally Kunkel's book "How toMaster the Radial Arm Saw". It's sold by his family at https://www.mrsawdust.com/, unless you can find a used copy anywhere. It's dated, any the adjustment screws on your saw will be a little different--but it will put you on the right track. His thoughts on building a table are still valid, and was the basis of my table build for the GWI. I only used 1/4" luaun for my top layer--no need to ever take the blade deeper than 1/8" below the top. As for blade--cross-cut should be neutral to a slightly negative rake with a high tooth count. I'm real happy with the Amana i'm running. Forrest still makes a blade that Kunkel helped design (i think he helped??)--it's not on their web site but can be phone ordered. The right blade designs help to reduce the tendency of the blade to want to climb--which is something that can lower (NOT eliminate) risk of accident.
Good Luck!!
earl

[Bill Space]

You are correct that the retrofit guard kit for the saw is no longer available. Too bad you missed it!

They sent the whole works for free which included a new table top. It’s actually a pretty good modification. I have two of the 10 inch saws. One was already modified when I bought it for $75, and the other one I bought cheaper, and got the kit to modify it on my own just by asking for it and giving the serial number.

I think now the only option is to send the motor of the saw back and get a check for maybe 100 bucks or something like that… I think they may pay for the postage back on the motor if you would want to do that. But I don’t think that’s what you’re looking to do.

Sorry that this is of no real help to you...

[Bob Potter]

Mark I had one that I bought new in 1986 and used it for almost every thing at first. I kept it until a couple of years ago. I did send for the kit. One thing about the new guard was that it had a lever in the handle that you had to squeeze to lift it over the fence. And the guard covered the blade much more than the old guard. Hope that helps, Bob

[Dave Zellers]

Is this the one that has the switch on the top of the arm that is operated by a small tab key? If so, I consider those unsafe. By the time I bought mine new in 1974-5 they had moved the switch right next to the carriage handle so it could be operated by your thumb while you are holding the handle. If something goes wrong like the wood binding, you are going to want to kill the power without letting go of anything.

So if it is that saw, I would recommend you take the $100 turn-in rebate and put it towards a safer saw. My 10 year newer than that Craftsman RAS is fantastic. Like Tom, I never change the 90º setting. I cut 45's on short pieces using an angled block that I made. You can do that for any angle, but for 90's I don't want to touch a thing because it is so perfect.

Those saws really have no value other than the rebate (or whatever they call it). I would take it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The guard leaves from a Delta 10" RAS will fit the guard on your Craftsman, but they are no longer available (Thank you B&D!) You could fabricate a set from Lexan, or aluminum, both of which were used on Deltas at one time or another.

[Mark Mrsa]

Dave, I have the model you are referring to with the on/off switch and the small tab key on the top of the arm. It is my understanding that the key remains in place to use the saw.
I am not aware of the turn-in rebate program. Do you have further information? Living in State College, Pa., the cost for shipping would probably exceed the rebate.
Mark Mrsa

[Mark Mrsa]

Earl, thanks for all of your input!! My intention is to make this saw fully function with an improved cutting table.
I would be interested in the components of the retro kit and am willing to talk about a cost for it with shipping, if it is still in good condition? Please advise.
I will make furture posts reguarding this tool and woul be happy to see your responses to my questions/concerns.
Thanks,
Mark Mrsa

[Dave Sabo]

Don’t think there is any way to not have a non sacrificial fence on a RAS.

Freud makes good value priced blades available from lots of places. Makita often has blades for their sliding miter saws that will work and they are less than 30 bucks on sale. 0 deg. or negative hook teeth are MANDATORY.

eBay is your newest best friend for craftsman RAS parts.

[Dave Zellers]

Dave, I have the model you are referring to with the on/off switch and the small tab key on the top of the arm. It is my understanding that the key remains in place to use the saw.
I am not aware of the turn-in rebate program. Do you have further information? Living in State College, Pa., the cost for shipping would probably exceed the rebate.
Mark Mrsa

http://radialarmsawrecall.com

This points to a $50 payment so either it has changed or, my bad. I'd go with my bad. I did this with two different saws that I owned which might account for the $100 in my head. But there is no cost on your end. You apply, get approved, they send you a box, you put the carriage into the box and take it to FedEx. Done. But Emerson made those saws for Sears and they are the ones handling the recall (not rebate).

The gist of what I'm saying is that I would not want to be in the middle of a cut gone bad and not be able to kill the power instantly with my thumb.

[David Dockstader]

I can't speak to everything, but I can answer #1. I bought a 1972 Craftsman 10" radial arm saw and kept it until just a few years ago. I can tell you that the safety kits for the saws did not go back as far as that. I was told that I'd have to quit using my saw because no kit was available. At that time I'd been using it for 30+ years with nary a problem so I just ignored it. The saw is very reliable and if tuned properly, extremely accurate. I used to tell my kids that if the table wasn't in the way, I could shave with it. So put in the work to bring it back to life and you have a really good tool.

[fred woltersdorf]

I have the same saw that I bought in 1965 and when I looked into the recall my saw wasn't included, but it's still going strong and I just had to replace the power switch which of course is not available but I found one that can be modified from Amazon.

[Bill Space]

http://radialarmsawrecall.com

This points to a $50 payment so either it has changed or, my bad. I'd go with my bad. I did this with two different saws that I owned which might account for the $100 in my head. But there is no cost on your end. You apply, get approved, they send you a box, you put the carriage into the box and take it to FedEx. Done. But Emerson made those saws for Sears and they are the ones handling the recall (not rebate).

The gist of what I'm saying is that I would not want to be in the middle of a cut gone bad and not be able to kill the power instantly with my thumb.

I remember $100 also. My bet would be it has changed...

[Curt Harms]

http://radialarmsawrecall.com

This points to a $50 payment so either it has changed or, my bad. I'd go with my bad. I did this with two different saws that I owned which might account for the $100 in my head. But there is no cost on your end. You apply, get approved, they send you a box, you put the carriage into the box and take it to FedEx. Done. But Emerson made those saws for Sears and they are the ones handling the recall (not rebate).

The gist of what I'm saying is that I would not want to be in the middle of a cut gone bad and not be able to kill the power instantly with my thumb.

$100 is what I recall as well. The only thing I've used my RAS (DeWalt 7749 not a 7740 unfortunately) is making deep dados with a dado head. Miter saws have pretty much replaced the RAS for most. A blade intended for a Sliding miter saw -negative rake angle - should work on a RAS as well.

[Mark Mrsa]

This is an update narrative in my goal to update the vintage RAS:
1. no one has responded to my question regarding the cutting table: why do cuts have to be made into the table at 90 degrees and 45 degrees left and right? Is it necessary?
2. is there another fence design to allow attaching a measuring tape guide on the left and right sides of the blade for more accurate cross cutting measurements?
3. lastly, any ideas for upgrading the on/off switch on the arm.
Thanks for all of your responses so far!
Mark Mrsa

[Earl McLain]

1. No requirement to make a cut anywhere, but one could. I set my crosscut blade between 1/16" and 1/8" deep into the sacrificial top--no need to go any deeper than the cut. A few folks mentioned leaving the arm at 90 deg and using mitered inserts for other angles. I swing my arm where it needs to go as my GWI is quite accurate and returns to 90 with an absolute stop. As i face my saw, i have one odd-ball angle to the left side (don't recall what i was cutting), the line at 90, then several angle cuts betwee n there and 45 deg to the right. With the arbor on the left side of the motor, i feel like i run out of room to cut much on the left side. Others may feel different.
2. One of the key functions of the fence is to serve as a zero-clearance backstop for your material, helping minimize tear-out on the entry of the cut. Over a little time, even on a well-tuned saw, that slot wallows out, so just shift the fence. When that kerf in the fence is fresh and true, i can put a single pencil mark on the edge of my stock and line up my cut with the kerf mark. If i have multiples, i clamp a stop to the fence for repeatability. Thinking about it--i i wanted to add at tape, i'd probably embed a rule in the sacrificial top, about an inch back from the blade. But--since different blades cut different width kerfs--error would creep in if you changed blades. I rotate between 3 blades on my RAS--one cuts about .126", another at 3/32" (thin kerf), and a little 7 1/4" blade that cuts a tick over 1/16" (to cut inserts for pen blanks) Even the Incra fence on my table saw has to be adjusted for the blade thickness--fence kisses blade, slide scale to zero, takes about 2 seconds if i'm slow.
3. On the GWI and my table saw, i have added a magnetic paddle switch in a box i mounted under the front edge of the table--directly in front of my left thigh (normally!!). I always turn off with my thigh, never with my hand, so that the muscle memory is ingrained. The "magnetic" part breaks the contact in event of a power loss, so if you lose power for a few seconds or a few days the machine will not automatically restart when power is restored. If it's a quick spike in the midst of a cut--increased chance of kickback if it pops right back on. If power is out longer--no problem leaving in the dark (still good to hit the switch). I use one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71054-Magnetic-Paddle-Switch/dp/B08L8PQPS5/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=magnetic%2Bswitch&qid=1619046787&sr=8-22&th=1

Hope this helps!!
earl

[Mark Mrsa]

Earl, thanks for your guidance reguarding the cutting table and fence. I made the cutting table from 1" thick MDF material, just as the original one was. I kept the measurements the same. I'm now considering a scarifical surface on top of that that would align with the 90 and 45 degree zero clearance kerf cuts through the fence. Any thoughts on the thickness of the scarifical surface on top of the 1" MDF board?
There is an old Sears Craftsman 10" blade on the RAS now which I intent to upgrade. Will probably look at a Frued blade. I've read not to use thin kerf width blades. Any comment on that point. Also, I know that zero or negative angle teeth are the safest, any comment on the type of blade, combination or just cross cut? I don't know if there are blades especially designed for an RAS?
Lastly, in regard to the switch, I installed a similar one on my table saw. I looked at your link. Did you have to do any re-wiring to make the updated switch work?
Mark

[Ron Selzer]

Get a copy of the Mr Sawdust book mentioned earlier
I have a solid board for the fence and marks every inch from cutting edge of blade both ways, takes years to cut it up bad enough to replace it. works great for quick fast measurements, for high accuracy I mark on board and cut to mark.
Dado cuts always have to be measured as they always are various widths
Only have the 90 deg cut in table which is a piece of 1/4" plywood
RAS in basement mounted to have support for 10'+ to left and 6'+ to right( can hang over 20' to right with support stands)
RAS in garage has support for 8' to left (12'+ clearance) and 2' to right ( 40'++ with stands)
RAS at work has a 40" wide table
Prefer Forrest blade made back around 1988 for RAS, Have a European blade on the one in basement works good, bought it at THE BLADE in Columbus, Ohio a few years ago. Negative hook. SHARP BLADE is very important, get blade sharpened before you think it is getting dull and you will find it was dull.
All factory switches and used to them, probably would be a good idea to add magnetic paddle switches, one more item for the to do list. Hasn't been a problem for almost 50 years however could be.
Rip on RAS as needed, prefer a table saw but not scared of RAS for ripping IF SET UP CORRECTLY
Basement and work RAS have new style guard and REALLY like it
Ron

[Earl McLain]

I use a crosscut blade for crosscutting and a ripping blade for ripping. I own a few combo blades--can't remember i put one on a RAS, table saw or circular saw. Ron Selzer mentions the Forrest blade made for RAS--it's officially a "Woodworker 1", but you have to call in and ask for the "Mr. Sawdust blade" to order as it's not on their website. (Mr. Sawdust was Wally Kunkel). The folks at Carbide Processors are great to talk to as well, one i see that could be a good blade is https://carbideprocessors.com/chop-saw-blade-radial-arm-saw-blade-10in-x-60t-tcg-popular-tools-ra1060t/ I've got a few Popular Tools blades, and they are a very good value--but i've not used this particular blade.
earl

[Rick Potter]

Here is my RAS setup.

Sorry, I am not very good with attaching pics. This obviously is not a Craftsman, it's a DeWalt 7790 12", but the setup would be the same.


Notice the red section of the table. This is the sacrificial part, held on with countersunk screws. Obviously I only cut 90's with it, and will never move it. This is only the second sacrificial insert I have used in 15 years, and the only reason I had to put a new one in was because I let someone else use the saw and he tried to muscle it through some construction 4x6, not realizing there was a blade stabilizer on it which didn't fit through the kerf. He bound the saw up and tried to force it, knocking it out of adjustment.


The second kerf in the fence is for the safety leaf to pass through on the left side of the blade. I didn't use the leaf on the right side, because I never have my hands near the right side.

The white melamine fence is about 4' on the left, and just past the table on the right. It has a t-slot in the face of the fence, I did it by cutting a dado, and then finishing off with a t-slot bit. The stops are home made, just a simple block slightly above the table with a top lip of 1/4" hardboard, and a 5/16 t-bolt and wing nut. The block and top lip are lined up so I can read the measurement directly off the tape measure that runs on the top of the fence.

There are also stops, with in and out 45's on them for cutting molding. I use the same type fences on miter gages, and try to standardize the placement of the stops. Not always successful at that though.

My setup is a bit different, placing it on top of a bench, rather than having the top level with the bench. This allows me to use the bench for other tasks without interfering with the RAS use, as you can see in the pic.

The chop saw is the same height and depth, and I use the RAS fence stops quite often with it. Also lined up with the RAS you can see a Kreg Foreman, and past the bench the drill press and router table are the right height also, so I can easily cut longer pieces than the fence. My Craftsman RAS, used only for dado's on drawers and such usually sits in line also. The band saw, drill press and router table change positions from time to time.

Hope this is of help.

PS: If you want to cut dados with your RAS, without ruining your good fence you spent so much time on......Make an accessory table that sits at the same height as your good fence with a sacrificial fence sticking up a little higher than the work you are dadoing. Clamp it over the original table.

Make sure the arm is raised enough to avoid cutting the good fence. Once you get your dado width dialed in, by cutting the 'new' fence, move the fence over a bit on the 'new' table, make one cut through it, and you now have a perfect visual of exactly where the dado will be on the work.

Hope this is clear enough to understand.






454565644565636563

[Tom M King]

The top layer of plywood on mine was intended as a sacrificial piece. It gets changed occasionally. This 1974 saw has served me well in building more than a few millions of dollars worth of stuff. Stops are often just nails driven into the top, and for long runs of sometimes hundreds of pieces, a wooden stop is screwed in place.

I've intended to make a "better" system, but this one has worked just fine for 47 years now.

For precise cuts, such as this tenon shoulder, I'll often use a thick 10" blade, like this old Systematic, on the 12" saw.

[Charlie Velasquez]

As mentioned, the fence is designed to be sacrificial, serve as a zero clearance back, and as a guide to provide alignment of where your cut will be. As mentioned, those will be compromised as your fence wallows out. This can be overcome, though and still be part of a non-consumable fence.
Do a search for Brian Weekly videos on YouTube. He is a member of the DeWalt RAS forum and all of his videos have been vetted by the membership. Most RAS YouTube videos are terrible, his are excellent. He describes his fence adaptation to maintain the zci function without sacrificing the fence. Also, videos on almost all other aspects of the RAS.

Wrt tuning the table saw... The recommendation for Wally Kunkel's book is not bad, you will gain insights on its use by arguably the best RAS user of all time. But for the Craftsman user Jon Eakes book is better. It is out of print and original copies are going for $100+ a pop. But the PDF version is available for cheap on his website. I have a DeWalt, and it is still my go to bible, if I had a fire it would be the one I save.
A well tuned RAS is a precision, safe (relatively) machine. Eakes book will help. Again, look to the Brian Weekly videos.

Wrt the table, the blade will cut below the table so your question is moot. With that said....
The table is extremely important. All your tune up calibrations will be referenced from the table. Making a table to the original craftsman specs is not sufficient. Kunkel's book will describe a "Mr. Sawdust table". Others have come up with alternate designs that they say can match the MST for flatness, but why? The MST is easy and has been the standard for decades. After the construction of your MST, you will want to protect it with a sacrificial top. Your MST will last a lifetime. Again,... The Brian Weekly videos...

[Lee Schierer]

This is an update narrative in my goal to update the vintage RAS:
1. no one has responded to my question regarding the cutting table: why do cuts have to be made into the table at 90 degrees and 45 degrees left and right? Is it necessary?

Yes it is necessary to make cuts into the sacrificial table. Just as you wouldn't make a cross cut or rip on a table saw with the blade teeth barely breaking the wood surface you shouldn't do that on a radial arm saw either.

2. is there another fence design to allow attaching a measuring tape guide on the left and right sides of the blade for more accurate cross cutting measurements?

YOu can put a tape on top of the fence as long as you don't make any angled or tilt cuts

3. lastly, any ideas for upgrading the on/off switch on the arm.

Yes, purchase one of these456586 and attach the switch under the front edge of your sacrificial table. Leave the old switch in place as an added safety, which allows your to lock the saw.
Thanks for all of your responses so far!
Mark Mrsa

Hopefully this helps.

[Earl McLain]

Hopefully this helps.

Great switch Lee, do you recall where you found that? Simple emergency stop without having to rewire.
earl

[Lee Schierer]

Great switch Lee, do you recall where you found that? Simple emergency stop without having to rewire.
earl

It was on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Single-Visibility-Contact-Machinery/dp/B07SG75TZS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=safety+switch&qid=1619225353&sr=8-2)

[Bruce Wrenn]

http://radialarmsawrecall.com

You apply, get approved, they send you a box, you put the carriage into the box and take it to FedEx. Done. But Emerson made those saws for Sears and they are the ones handling the recall (not rebate). . And Fed Ex (used to be UPS Store) takes box out back and throws it into dumpster. Then they get paid a handling fee. Emerson neither wants, nor wants to pay freight on old head. Friend's husband owned a UPS store, that's how I know.