Old huge router - keep? Or look for something else?

[Chess Baloo]

Hi. Complete noob here. Getting ready to retire in less than a year and I want to start playing around with woodworking. I had never used a router until this weekend so I really mean NOOB.:o I have a nice little trim router that I recently bought, and I am just learning how to use it - it's pretty cool. :-) I mentioned to my BF that I was looking at router tables online and that I might build one. He said if I was going to do that I really should just use a full size router and leave it in the table, and he had a router that I could have. I thought - hmm...nice. Well he went out to the barn and finally dug out this big case and brought it out to me. We opened it, and yup it's a router. He has never used it - I think he may have loaned out out once or twice but that's about it. He isn't into woodworking (he's more of a car guy) but someone gave it to him as a gift, many years ago, and he just kept it. But here is the thing - this router is HUGE. And I think it is pretty old. So I am just wondering if it is worth even trying to use. I mean, would it make sense to spend the effort to build a table for this thing? Or should I just say thanks but never mind and give it back, and get my own router, when I am ready.
I'm not sure what features may be missing on it - I don't think this is one that the base comes off of, so not sure it can be used as a plunge router. But I think a fixed base is what I would need for a table mounted one anyway. :confused:

This is the router (I found a couple of them for sale on eBay) so that you can see what I am talking about.
eBay item# 265028771055

Appreciate any advice or thoughts.

[Mel Fulks]

Not all routing is done on a router table. Bigger routers are good for removing wood to make dados, rabbeting ,and spinning large bits. And can also be used on a
router table. I’m guessing the router you show is just 1and 1/2 horsepower , and they go up to 3 horse, at least.

[Warren Wilson]

If the size of the plate is standard, why not start with that one. Later, if you want to swap it out with a newer model, it will not be difficult to fit.

[David Dockstader]

A 1 1/2 HP is not that big. That's about a good starting position for a router table and it's still small enough to use hand-held.

[Roger Feeley]

Sometimes I want a big heavy router. More mass means it’s less likely to kick back. I have a 3hp dewalt that was in my router table for years. I upgraded to a Jessem lift and one of those Milwaukee routers with the external switch and speed control (awesome) and I kept the dewalt. I use it from time to time.

I agree that that craftsman router is sort of mid-size. I would politely pass on this router for two reasons:

1. The thing that holds the router bit is called the collet. Your trim router probably only handles 1/4” bits. Most mid-sized routers today come with collets for 1/4” and 1/2” bits. You are going to want to use half inch bits, particularly if you use the router in a table. I found the manual and it appears that this router only takes 1/4” bits. The collet is built into the end of the motor shaft.
2. Most routers today are variable speed. This router appears to be fixed at 25,000. I don’t usually run my routers full speed to avoid burning. Big bits like panel raising bits definitely go slower.

But I already have three hand held routers. This router will give you more mass than the trim router. If you take it, remember to always store it with no bit installed. There are threads about folks with stuck bits. Some folks put a little o-ring at the bottom of the collet. If the bit gets stuck, a little tap with a block of wood will break it loose.

[Chess Baloo]

A 1 1/2 HP is not that big. That's about a good starting position for a router table and it's still small enough to use hand-held.

It is larger - WAY larger - than any router I have ever seen. I am not referring to the motor size, I am talking about the physical size. It's not "small" by any stretch of the imagination.

[Chess Baloo]

If the size of the plate is standard, why not start with that one. Later, if you want to swap it out with a newer model, it will not be difficult to fit.

What is a standard size plate?

[Chess Baloo]

Sometimes I want a big heavy router. More mass means it’s less likely to kick back. I have a 3hp dewalt that was in my router table for years. I upgraded to a Jessem lift and one of those Milwaukee routers with the external switch and speed control (awesome) and I kept the dewalt. I use it from time to time.

I agree that that craftsman router is sort of mid-size. I would politely pass on this router for two reasons:

1. The thing that holds the router bit is called the collet. Your trim router probably only handles 1/4” bits. Most mid-sized routers today come with collets for 1/4” and 1/2” bits. You are going to want to use half inch bits, particularly if you use the router in a table. I found the manual and it appears that this router only takes 1/4” bits. The collet is built into the end of the motor shaft.
2. Most routers today are variable speed. This router appears to be fixed at 25,000. I don’t usually run my routers full speed to avoid burning. Big bits like panel raising bits definitely go slower.

But I already have three hand held routers. This router will give you more mass than the trim router. If you take it, remember to always store it with no bit installed. There are threads about folks with stuck bits. Some folks put a little o-ring at the bottom of the collet. If the bit gets stuck, a little tap with a block of wood will break it loose.


Thank you very much!

[glenn bradley]

It is larger - WAY larger - than any router I have ever seen. I am not referring to the motor size, I am talking about the physical size. It's not "small" by any stretch of the imagination.

If the link is taking us to the right place this may be a matter of perception based on experience.

456300

The router in the middle is about the size of the one in your link. The one on the left is a 2-1/4 HP and the one on the right is a 3HP with the handles removed to fit in a table. A 1-1/2 HP router is pretty light for table work but, it is what I started with. Many people find a 2-1/4 HP table router to be fine.

Starting with a free router for a table is certainly a windfall and I would take advantage of it. If nothing else you will get some time with it to see what you do and do not need in a table router for your work. I got a Ryobi router for free (or darn near IIRC) way back and I learned from that experience. It taught me that a router that vibrates that much is pretty useless. :o Seriously though, the time spent with it was well spent.

[Roger Feeley]

I got a Ryobi router for free (or darn near IIRC) way back and I learned from that experience. It taught me that a router that vibrates that much is pretty useless. :o Seriously though, the time spent with it was well spent.
I was doing some freehand routing once and there was just a little bit of vibration. I found it sort of handy. I was able to move the router with more precision.

[Roger Feeley]

What is a standard size plate?
Darned if I know.

For a long time I made my router table plates from plexiglass. I can’t really recommend that because the plexiglass tends to sag so I would take the router out when I was done. Even a little bit of sag will drive you nuts if you need consistent depth. But that’s assuming that your board is dead flat. I know...pros and cons.

Now my plate is aluminum. I got my present setup 10 years ago and haven’t paid attention since.

Chess, have you considered adding your general area to your profile? You never know,there might be creekers right next door...

[Chess Baloo]

Darned if I know.

For a long time I made my router table plates from plexiglass. I can’t really recommend that because the plexiglass tends to sag so I would take the router out when I was done. Even a little bit of sag will drive you nuts if you need consistent depth. But that’s assuming that your board is dead flat. I know...pros and cons.

Now my plate is aluminum. I got my present setup 10 years ago and haven’t paid attention since.

Chess, have you considered adding your general area to your profile? You never know,there might be creekers right next door...

I will do that now. This was my first post - I have only been a lurker until now. :o

[Curt Harms]

I had a router like the Ebay listing, that model has 2 issues. One is that the cooling fan on the motor shaft tends to shed blades which causes lots of vibration. The second issue is that it doesn't have a collet in the usual sense. Most routers have a removable collet that can be replaced when it wears. The collet fits into a machined socket on the end of the motor shaft. The collet may wear, the motor shaft doesn't The Sears router has the collet formed into the end of the motor shaft. There is no way to replace it except to replace the motor shaft which is impractical. I think most would recommend a fixed base/plunge base combo as a first router. They're typically 2.25 h.p. and can do most routing jobs. That size router can also be used in a router table though people that use a table a lot or heavy use like raised panels prefer a larger more powerful router. I'd recommend a trip to a couple home centers and put hands on some different models, see which ones feel good to you.

[Chess Baloo]

If the link is taking us to the right place this may be a matter of perception based on experience.



I suppose it could be. I only know the routers that I have seen in HD or Lowes. This thing is a beast compared to those.

[Dave Sabo]

Chess - that is a lousy router for use in a table.

Besides the drawbacks mentioned , I don’t think it accepts a 1/2” collet. It’s also single speed, ugh. The spindle lock is a pain to engage under a table. The on off trigger is not ideal for switching in a table setup. And , height adjustment is a real faff table mounted. Don’t believe it will fit any lift plates either . So, it’s a bad choice for table work.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I loved my Sears Router and used it weekly for many years. It was very comfortable and fit my hands just perfect. Sadly it was a 1/4" collet, so using it for the router table or for 3/4" dados was a no-go. It sat in my attic for the last 10 years until I sold it for $20 on Craigslist.

For a starter router, I would suggest a Porter Cable 690 or the DeWalt equivalent. Fixed base for router table work, plunge base for edge work.

[Andrew Seemann]

There are worse routers out there. My first router definitely wasn't as good as that one. If you don't have a router that size, I'd go for it.

Most of us end up with more than one router. I've got at least six, including my trim router. Even though you will likely want a better router at some point, a router like that is handy to leave a 1/4" round over or a chamfer bit in.

If you did get a combo set, I personally am a fan of the DeWalt 2 1/4HP fixed+plunge+D handle combo kit. I am very partial to D handled routers though. Most people seem to get by with just a fixed base and a plunge base.

[Rick Potter]

It is a little used router.

It's free.

Of course you want it.

Even if it only takes 1/4" bits, it is still very useful, and because of the larger, more stable base you may find it handier than you think.

[Alex Zeller]

My question is how much money do you have/ want to put towards woodworking? If money is going to be tight then I would use it, free is free. However if I was ok with spending money I would want a router with a soft start feature while learning. Maybe years down the road you will have more routers than you know what to do with but for now I wouldn't dedicate one to a router table. You don't need a giant 3hp router either. A nice mid-sized one (2hp ish) would serve you well for most anything you will want to do. Those older non soft start routers tend to jerk when you turn them on. If not careful and depending where the switch is it can twist it right out of your hands. Your trim router is going to be limited on what it'll do so you will want something larger.

[Curt Harms]

I suppose it could be. I only know the routers that I have seen in HD or Lowes. This thing is a beast compared to those.

The picture may be deceiving. I don't recall it being any larger than a Porter Cable 690. As mentioned above if you take to woodworking you'll probably end up with at least two routers. One for handheld use like the 2.25 h.p. kits mentioned and a larger one with features that make table use easier. I bought a little trim router that yes only takes 1/4" shank bits but I've used that one more than the 2 h.p one, it's just so light and handy.

[Chess Baloo]

Chess - that is a lousy router for use in a table.

Besides the drawbacks mentioned , I don’t think it accepts a 1/2” collet. It’s also single speed, ugh. The spindle lock is a pain to engage under a table. The on off trigger is not ideal for switching in a table setup. And , height adjustment is a real faff table mounted. Don’t believe it will fit any lift plates either . So, it’s a bad choice for table work.

Thanks. I was sorta thinking that was the case.

[Chess Baloo]

It is a little used router.

It's free.

Of course you want it.

Even if it only takes 1/4" bits, it is still very useful, and because of the larger, more stable base you may find it handier than you think.

No, I don't necessarily want it because it is free. I would have a shed full of junk if I took everything my BF wanted to hand off to me. :p
And I mentioned in my OP, I DO have a trim router - a new Ridgid - that I really like and am learning to use.

[Chess Baloo]

My question is how much money do you have/ want to put towards woodworking? If money is going to be tight then I would use it, free is free. However if I was ok with spending money I would want a router with a soft start feature while learning. Maybe years down the road you will have more routers than you know what to do with but for now I wouldn't dedicate one to a router table. You don't need a giant 3hp router either. A nice mid-sized one (2hp ish) would serve you well for most anything you will want to do. Those older non soft start routers tend to jerk when you turn them on. If not careful and depending where the switch is it can twist it right out of your hands. Your trim router is going to be limited on what it'll do so you will want something larger.

Money is not too much of an issue. I can easily afford to get decent woodworking tools. BF knows that, he just is the type to make use of something that is cheap or free rather than spending money on something better.
I, fortunately or unfortunately, do not have that same view. :o

[Alex Zeller]

Money is not too much of an issue. I can easily afford to get decent woodworking tools. BF knows that, he just is the type to make use of something that is cheap or free rather than spending money on something better.
I, fortunately or unfortunately, do not have that same view. :o

Since you are learning and don't mind buying tools I wouldn't bother with his gift. Learning is hard enough so why add the challenge of that router's limitations. With COVID learning is even harder since your more likely to try and learn without guidance. When your ready to add a larger router think of the projects (and the bits that will be required) you would like to do and I'm sure you will get plenty of help narrowing down the choices.

[Jim Dwight]

I may still have an old Craftsman like that. I haven't seen it in years and may have thrown it away. The last time I tried it to cut a dado was over 10 years ago and the bit slipped in the collet and deepened the cut substantially ruining the wood. I used it a little more recently to cut a groove in a PT separator in a driveway to put a wire into. I used a bit I did not care about and a router I did not care about - figuring I would touch concrete a few times before finishing.

My big router is a PC 7528 that I have a fixed base for but I've only used it in my router table. It draws 15 amps. My normal hand held routers are two PC 690s, I think they draw 10 or 11 amps, and a Bosch colt - it's motor is small but I don't remember how small. The Colt has a 1/4 collet and it slips sometimes too. The PC 1/4 collet is better in my opinion but for any large cut I use a 1/3 inch shank bit.

A good place to start is with a 10-12 amp router in a set with a plunge base and fixed base. They will work in a router table and one way to use them is just attach the fixed base to a piece of plywood so you can have a simple router table and use the plunge base for free hand. I have 4 bases for my 690s and used to have a fixed base under the extension table of my table saw for this sort of use. I like PCs so I would look for a PC 890 but Boschs mid sized router usually gets better reviews. Nearly everybody makes a 10-12 amp router. If the collet is OK, other brands would work. If you want to see what sort of collet you want go to a big box store and see if their display model has the collet and examine it. Or just buy a DeWalt, Hitachi, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc.. Expect to spend around $250.