Router Tables - Cast Iron vs Phenolic vs MDF

[Julie Moriarty]

For the past 20+ years I've been working on a laminated MDF TS extension wing that holds a router lift. There have been times wood has caught on the edge of the router plate. Wood swelling? I don't know. But it's annoying, and if it snags part way into the feed, it can mess up the job.

I recently bought a new cabinet saw that has cast iron wings plus a phenolic extension that looks insufficient to hold a router lift w/router motor over time. The phenolic top is 3/8" thick. The frame is 5/8" x 1-5/8" phenolic. In order to install the router lift, the center rib has to be cut, leaving a span of almost 20" unsupported. Of course I could beef it up but it would probably be easier to just build a new extension wing. I could use that extension on the TS outfeed.

The TS manufacturer sells a pricey cast iron wing that fits the TS and router lift perfectly. About the only drawback I can think of (besides price) is rust.

Phenolic sheet goods, from what little searches I've done, look to be considerably more expensive than laminated MDF. I know nothing about phenolic but I wonder about it sagging over time. I bought some 3/4" thick UHMW a couple decades ago, thinking it was completely stable, but over time it proved not to be.

As to MDF, from my experience, laminated MDF seems to have its drawbacks, too, as noted above.

Hopefully, the cabinet saw upgrade will make work much more enjoyable. I'd like to have a similar experience with the router table, too. Any thoughts?

[Jim Becker]

I will admit that I really like cast iron for the "feel" and vibration dampening. The disadvantage is that you can't "roll your own" and you have to use accessories, such as lifts, fences, etc., that are compatible with the particular cast iron unit you choose. And yes, in some areas, cast iron comes with a maintenance requirement. (fortunately not in my shop) Phenolic coated plywood, laminate covered MDF or even raw MDF or plywood will make perfectly good router table surfaces that will perform for a long time. You can design them exactly the way you want them, too.

One solution for moisture issues with MDF is to use exterior versions such as Medex and Extiera. My auxiliary bench and guitar bench surfaces are made from Extiera that I had left over from a client job.

[Alan Lightstone]

I use cast iron for mine, Julie, and even in our neck of the woods simple maintenance prevents rust issues. My issue with the one I have (in a router table now, not in a table saw extension wing) is that it just isn't deep enough (front - bit). That does get in the way with safely doing some operations.

I would be very wary of using MDF in South Florida where the humidity is 500%. Jim's suggestion of using exterior versions may be a great one, but I have no clue if they swell with humidity or they solve that problem.

One annoyance I had with the cast iron router table in the extension wing is that you really have to seriously beef up the wing. I tried multiple angle iron pieces, and that really worked far worse than expected. I would at least double up on the 3/4" sheet goods. I did that on the router table, and that worked great.

[Thomas Wilson]

I have used 3/4 plywood for router tables. I used 1x3 around the hole and 2x4 ladder frame underneath to stiffen the sheet. It stayed flat. It was made to go on sawhorses rather than for a table saw extension so you would have to engineer the substructure to attach it to your saw. I found some adjustable supports that allowed the plate to be leveled as needed. I don’t know if those or something similar are still available. I will take a picture for you if you are interested. I will be away from the shop until next Tuesday.

This particular table was made for a molding job and had mounts for two routers. It was intended for one job but was useful and has not gotten pitched yet.

[Charles Coolidge]

I'm a cast iron fan and went with this purchased setup vs building my own in the interest of time.

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[Brian Holcombe]

Cast iron is nice for this, mine has not yet dampened vibration but it certainly does damp vibration. :D:D:D

[Charles Coolidge]

Also, lifting that 24x32 cast iron table about gave me a hernia.

[Julie Moriarty]

I use cast iron for mine, Julie, and even in our neck of the woods simple maintenance prevents rust issues. My issue with the one I have (in a router table now, not in a table saw extension wing) is that it just isn't deep enough (front - bit). That does get in the way with safely doing some operations.

I would be very wary of using MDF in South Florida where the humidity is 500%. Jim's suggestion of using exterior versions may be a great one, but I have no clue if they swell with humidity or they solve that problem.

One annoyance I had with the cast iron router table in the extension wing is that you really have to seriously beef up the wing. I tried multiple angle iron pieces, and that really worked far worse than expected. I would at least double up on the 3/4" sheet goods. I did that on the router table, and that worked great.

It didn't take me long to realize SW Florida is very different animal than Chicago, Alan. Humidity, salt air and heat seem to be out to destroy everything man-made. But I've got the rust issue under control. It just requires more maintenance than needed up north.

But another thing that can't be ignored is when things work as intended (or expected), you tend to use them more often and certainly enjoy them more. More then once I talked myself out of doing something because I knew I'd get annoyed or frustrated with the flaws in my DIY setup.

The DIY router fence was cool when I made it but it hasn't stood the test of time, especially here in Florida. So I ordered a fence from Woodpeckers, along with their lift and Portamate router. I expected the extension wing on the Harvey HW110S to be beefy enough to support a router w/lift. But after I opened the box, that extension wing looked pretty anemic.

As to beefing up the support under the cast iron router wing, my setup has legs under the extension. A Portamate mobile base extension will allow for the legs to roll with the saw base. I just have to figure out what I'm going to do with the sliding table.

Thanks, all, for the replies. That cast iron router wing is looking better.

[Jack Frederick]

The TS is a SS, correct?

[Julie Moriarty]

The table saw is a Harvey HW110S

[Norman Pirollo]

With the "sagging" issue in mind. I researched and built my router table using a torsion box sub-frame. Has never sagged. I created a box opening in the center to mount the router table insert. So essentially the table surface is supported by a grid composed of vertical components sandwiched between with another birch ply panel below. 15 years and going on strong!

Norman

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[Michael Drew]

I built "Norm's" router table about 20 years ago. I've had a few iterations of the table top though. The most recent is two layers of 3/4" MDF, wrapped in laminate. Seems to be holding up well. I wanted to make it larger than normal, and also have the capability to work from the front or side, so I built an extension that I can move the fence to the rear, or to the side. I use the Incra fence, so it's just a matter of repositioning the adjuster. Here a couple old pics.....(I've moved to the Incra lift since I took these).

https://i.postimg.cc/sXmK6dyT/20100214-P2146175.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/qR4jxMft/20100214-P2146174.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Alex Zeller]

I have some unknown material in my TS extension. The previous owner installed it (a countertop shop). It's 3/4" thick and some sort of man made material but not like phenolic with fibers inside it. It's extremely strong. I also have a stand alone cast iron router table. I like both. The "unknown" one can get glue dripped on it and it comes off very easy without leaving any marks. Wood glue is not as nice to cast iron. If it didn't come with a table I probably would have gone cast iron simply because I like to set things up and not worry about checking the set up each time I go to use it. Phenolic type materials shouldn't swell much with humidity so it would be a better choice than MDF. But cast iron does sound like the best choice for your location as long as you've got the rust under control. You will absolutely need to have the wing of the tablesaw supported. If it's on a mobile base you'll want the extension for it.

[Earl McLain]

I'm wondering if MDO might be an alternative to MDF? Seems like it might handle the humidity a little better--coupled with a torsion box style support?
earl

[Robert Engel]

From FL: if you laminate both sided of the MDF and edge band it with hardwood, there is no issue with humidity.

The exposed edges of the rabbet for the plate can be sealed with urethane, if you've a habit of setting a drink on table or have a leaky shop :-D

[Mel Fulks]

I'm wondering if MDO might be an alternative to MDF? Seems like it might handle the humidity a little better--coupled with a torsion box style support?
earl
I like the cheap melamine board . It’s slick and it is plenty strong for a router table. I don’t even have edging on mine and it stays in garage.
STOP building the SHOP and make MONEY !!

[Wes Grass]

Phenolic comes in many grades. 'Linen', and 'Paper' being common terms for 'some' in the industry. So if you don't run into any fibers cutting it it could be paper based, rather than canvas or glass.

The torsion box setup shown is an option, but I think just bonding some ribs underneath around the lift opening should be sufficient. You need to put something there to create a pocket anyway.

[Joe Hollis]

That's a very, very nice router table....well done!

[Rick Potter]

Michael,

Really like your router table, especially the way you handled the Incra setup, without having it taking up space permanently.

You should submit that one to a magazine....before someone else does.

[Julie Moriarty]

Looking at the Woodpecker fence and the Harvey cast iron router table extension, the slots where the fence connects to the table seem to be very different. I'm guessing the fix would be to drill new holes in the fence to match the cast iron table, should I go that way. Decisions, decisions...

[Jim Dwight]

I have never purchased a router plate or router lift or router table. I used a setup in my table saw extension wing for awhile. The top was melamine and I just thinned the bottom so the area I mounted a router base to was about 3/8 thick. I had a hole for the bit to come through and I made a fence I think I still have. It worked but it seemed like I always needed to use the table saw when I got the router setup dialed in. It got in the way. If I was better organized it might have worked longer term.

So I use a separate router table now that is shaped like Norm's but has a home made router lift bolted to the 3/4 plywood back. Top tilts up for bit changes. Top is a sink cutout edged with hardwood and backed with 3/4 plywood. It doesn't support the router so it stays flat. The fence is also home made and clamps in place with minature bar clamps. DC sucks from the fence and the router compartment. The latter is ducted up to the collet area so it doesn't fight the router cooling fan. It sits on totally locking casters so it is easily moved. I really like this table and would not trade it for any commercially offered table. I know it and it does what I need it to do. Motor is a PC7518.

I live in SC so I deal with humidity too but I don't think that is what causes sag in wood router table tops. Steel is somewhat unique in not yielding at all until you get to it's yield point. Most material, including aluminum and wood, yield at low loads just not very much. Supporting the router creates enough stress in the wooden top to cause it to move - yield. MDF is the weakest so it will do it more. Particle board is better, especially high density particle board like a sink cutout. Plywood is next but does warp sometimes. Solid wood is strongest but it does move from moisture changes. It cam be checked and trued as necessary. But mounting the motor to a carriage supported by the cabinet back solved the issue for me.

[Julie Moriarty]

I contacted Woodpeckers and they said their Super Fence will work with the Harvey cast iron table. Just ordered the table.

Hope the shock of this new setup doesn't give me a heart attack!

[Doug Dawson]

I'm a cast iron fan and went with this purchased setup vs building my own in the interest of time.

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I have the Jet version of that table, looks exactly the same except for the livery. The “mobility solution” for it was so awful that I ended up bagging and tagging it and putting the thing on a Portamate. Did you have any issues with it?

[David Publicover]

Hi Julie,
I’d appreciate knowing how you like the new setup once you are up and running. I’ve followed this thread with some interest since I’d like to do something similar at some point. It’ll be a fall project most likely so there’s no rush.
Have you posted any pictures of your new saw?
Best regards,
David

[Charles Coolidge]

I have the Jet version of that table, looks exactly the same except for the livery. The “mobility solution” for it was so awful that I ended up bagging and tagging it and putting the thing on a Portamate. Did you have any issues with it?

What specifically was the issue with the mobile base? It's working fine for me so far no issues but we'll see how long those cheesy wheels hold up. They are an odd size like 2" and 2.5" which are not easy to source in urethane with bearings or I may have already replaced them. Agree the Jet and SawStop are the exact same base and table.

I have an extra Grizzly T31566 - Bear Crawl All Swivel HD Mobile Base if needed. I put one on a Powermatic mortising machine recently and its nice.

[Doug Dawson]

What specifically was the issue with the mobile base? It's working fine for me so far no issues but we'll see how long those cheesy wheels hold up. They are an odd size like 2" and 2.5" which are not easy to source in urethane with bearings or I may have already replaced them. Agree the Jet and SawStop are the exact same base and table.
Using the stock mounting positions for the two fixed wheels, you had to jack up the levelers so high to get the unit to not catch over a slightly uneven floor that the assembly felt rickety in use, as I remember it (a few years ago.) I didn’t think it was particularly well engineered. Maybe SawStop spec’ed in a fix for that.

[tom lucas]

I'm a cast iron man. I purchased this one because it included folding support legs and a nice fence.

https://www.shopyourway.com/general-international-router-table-extension-kit/628082744

Not sure if it's still available from General, but the one sawstop is selling looks identical.

I put an Incra PRL-V2 rapid lift in it. Love it. As others have mentioned the only issue is I wish table front to blade were a few inches wider. But, in reality, it is seldom needed. Plus the entire tablesaw top can be used simply by flipping the fence to the other side and feeding from the opposite direction.

This replaced a stand-alone table that was much bigger with a sliding table. Worth it for the space savings, to me.

Mounting it just involved match drilling holes in the tablesaw top. With the legs it's well supported.

[Vince Shriver]

John took the exact words right out of my mouth.