Track Saw vs Circular Saw vs Table saw Vs Miter saw - Which one to start with?

[Amelia Green]

Hi,

I realise that all tools are not equal. I remember someone saying that even a table saw does not equal a table saw does not equal a table saw :eek:
But if someone is just getting into the woodworking hobby with a limited space available for the workshop, which one would you guys recommend to buy first? A Track Saw or Circular Saw or a Table saw or a Miter saw, And why?

Thanks

[David Publicover]

Hi Amelia,
It really depends on what you want to build. My first saw was a bandsaw. After about 10 years I added a mitre saw and eventually got a table saw. My “track saw” is simply a circular saw with a homemade guide. It lacks the features and capabilities of a true track saw ( from what I have read anyway) but does what I need.
What kind of work did you want to do?

[Randy Heinemann]

I would agree that it depends on what you want to build. The thing is, a track saw has its uses, a bandsaw can be a very versatile tool, a miter saw is useful for some things, and a circular saw can be inexpensive and versatile and, with a guide of some sort, accurate also.

I personally feel that, while the track saw, circular saw, miter saw, and bandsaw all have their uses, I would start out with a "jobsite" table saw. Dewalt, Bosch, Sawstop, and others make great jobsite saws, depending on how much you want to spend and what your preferences are. I own one and love it because it can be folded up, moved out of the way, and, when you need it, just roll it out and unfold it. Plus, I'd say that these saws may be more accurate than the used table saw I started woodworking with a lot of years ago. I think they are high quality saws and have been very happy with mine. They have their limitations in terms of handling larger boards, but I still feel the table saw is the most versatile of saws in the shop and found that it's almost impossible for me to get along without one. So, these saws certainly are something to consider.

[Patrick Varley]

Hi,

I realise that all tools are not equal. I remember someone saying that even a table saw does not equal a table saw does not equal a table saw :eek:
But if someone is just getting into the woodworking hobby with a limited space available for the workshop, which one would you guys recommend to buy first? A Track Saw or Circular Saw or a Table saw or a Miter saw, And why?

Thanks

If space is an issue, a track saw and MFT/crosscut table will go a long way. I'd highly recommend taking a look at Peter Millard's 10 Minute Workshop videos, as well as his 10-part series on track saws.

[Dave Sweeney]

An angle is difficult to cut on a trak saw but not on a table saw. You can't rip on a miter saw but you can on a table saw. A circular saw can do many things but it can't do anything that a table saw can't do. Build your shop around a table saw then add those other tools as your wallet allows.

[Cary Falk]

I would say table saw first but as everyone has said it does depend on what you want to build

[Curt Putnam]

Your question is impossible to answer without knowing what you intend to build. Track saws shine on sheet goods bit so much on hardwoods. Table saws require a lot of infeed and outfeed support and lots of accessories to be as versatile as they can be. Miter saws only cut off ends of sticks. Unless your 1st projects are moldings, you probably do not want to start there.

Everyone needs a circular saw sooner or later so it is not a bad place to start. A better place to start is to plan your 1st project and then buy the minimum set of tools necessary to accomplish that project. If you have plenty of cash then just go buy whatever your heart desires. If not, acquire tools, as needed, along the way.

[Alex Zeller]

You said "woodworking" and "limited space" I would also ask what are your plans are. If you plan on starting out building small things like bird houses then most tools may be too big. If you would like to learn how to make furniture then larger tools would be needed. Of course there's always the money aspect. If it's tight then you'll want to think about not just what you want to start with but where you want to get to. Lots of people say "buy your second tool first". What this means is don't buy a cheap tool that'll limit you in a short amount of time. If you do you'll end up spending more than you would have.

A circular saw is good for construction. It can be used with a straight edge to act like a track saw.

A track saw is very useful for cutting sheets of plywood down to a manageable size. It can be used to cut wood but as the pieces get smaller it becomes less useful.

A table saw is usually the center of a wood shop. With proper skills it can cut sheets of plywood as well as rip and crosscut wood. With tools you can make, like a sled, it can make most cuts. It's the center piece of a woodworking shop because it takes up a lot more room than the other saws you listed. It's the one tool, above all the others you listed, that really requires someone to teach you how to safely use it.

A miter saw is useful for cutting lumber. It can make square cuts as well as ones at angles. A table saw can also make these cuts but unlike a table saw the wood doesn't move so longer pieces are easier to deal with. A compound miter saw can cut two angles at once. That's something a table saw can do.

A band saw (not listed) is also useful. With it you can cut curves. That's something none of the other saws can do. The cut edges are not as smooth as what the other saws will produce and will require further finishing before the next step in a project, like gluing.

This is pretty basic but hopefully gives you a place to start.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

My suggestion is to base it on what you want your first project to be. Pick the tool (or tools) that gets your first project done. As you do more projects you’ll identify and purchase more tools to accomplish it.

Then if you end up anything like me, you will find yourself continually buying more tools ;-)

[Steve Rozmiarek]

In my experience, the saw usage for ripping stock in my shop is approximately 90% table saw, 5% track saw, 5% bandsaw. For crosscutting in my shop, it is 75% chop saw, 25% sliding table saw.

This is from 30 years of doing woodworking as a hobby and as a job. There are lots of people trying to sell table saw alternatives, sort through all that sales pitch and the table saw still reigns supreme. A smaller version, along with a good chop saw (doesn't have to be a slider), will build practically anything.

[Mike Cutler]

Table saw first.
Their are many versions of "table saws". Some weigh less than 100lbs. Some will weigh in excess of 1 ton. There is no limit to the number of jigs and fixtures folks have invented to do work on a table saw. You can accomplish everything on a table saw that the other three saws can do with the appropriate fixture or jig. You just lack the portablity.
Ripping a board, and crosscutting a board, are the bread and butter of a table saw. It cannot be done faster, repeatedly, and more accurately with the other three. Especially ripping to width.
Miter saw would be second. A good miter saw is going to be expensive, but setup properly it is capable of some very good work. It has the ability to cut compound angles much more quickly, and effortlessly, than a table saw.
A tracksaw would be third. A tracksaw makes breaking down plywood panels easier and safer than struggling with it on a table saw. If you know that you'll be doing a fair amount of work with plywood panels, the tracksaw would be my second choice.
A circular saw by itself has limited use in wood working. It's good to have one around for the rough work you wouldn't want to use your tracksaw for.

You have omitted the bandsaw. A woodworking shop needs a good bandsaw.Problem is that they are big, heavy, and tall.A lot of folks just don't have the room for a big one.
A small one can cut the "curvy" shapes easy enough.

[Ole Anderson]

I find a track saw and a circ saw to be somewhat redundant. For most projects a table saw rips and a miter saw crosscuts. There you go. You want to cut curves or resaw you need a bandsaw. My power saws in order over 50 years: circ saw, RAS, miter saw, abrasive cut off saw, table saw, bandsaw, track saw, flooring (Skil) saw. Not counting saber saw or tile saw or reciprocating saw or buzz saw (oscillating saw). Only one not still in my shop is the RAS and tile saw.

[Mark Gibney]

Like most of the replies here I vote for the tablesaw as #1.

If you live in a big metro area you can find any number of tablesaws for sale on sites like craigslist, some very cheaply, from vintage to almost new.
If you have limited space but lots of money a Sawstop is a good and safer saw.

A good jig saw can do a lot of what a bandsaw can do - not as accurately - but you can use a jig saw on parts that are too heavy to lift onto a bandsaw table.

Like tablesaws, miter / chop saws are available used too. If you get a lighter 8" slider you can store it out of the way until you need it. Some of the larger ones can be heavier, but I have a 12" Rigid that is actually very light and easy to lift around.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Also without knowing what your plans are. I would say first is a GOOD circular saw. Worm drive. Back in the day, they built entire houses with just a Skil wormdrive. You can build a workbench, which is a great thing to have. Next I would say a GOOD miter saw. I can build picture frames with my vintage Dewalt. It's accurate enough to do that. Cabinet table saw. Track saw last since some have mentioned you can get a guide for the circ saw to get by. I personally do not have a track saw. I do have 3 band saws, which others have mentioned a great tool too.

[Ron Selzer]

For me Radial Arm saw first then table saw then panel saw then band saw, circular saw, jig saw
Need to know WHAT YOU ARE PLANNING ON BUILDING to advise you
please post more info for us to advise you better
Ron

[Rege Sullivan]

A table saw is the most versatile saw on your list in a shop setting. With limited space I'd look for a decent contractor saw with a stand and wheels like the Bosch. Unless you are working with full size sheet good most of the cuts the other saws you mention can be made on a table saw.

What ever you do, best of luck.

[Jim Dwight]

To me, the limited space criterion says track saw. I've been making wood dust for at least 50 years and most of that was without a track saw - I don't think they existed. But after getting one, I use it on almost all projects now. The only situation I would go straight to the table saw is if you know with great certainty that all your projects will be little.

I used to cut up full sheets on a table saw but that requires a LOT of space. It also requires a big saw - more space even when not being used. It is far easier to cut large things, sheet goods or solid wood, with a track saw. Just makes sense to move the blade when it is far smaller than the workpiece.

Earlier this year I built a 10 foot long dining table with a solid cherry top. Six boards form the 42 inch wide top. I cut all those glue joints with my track saw. I do not own a jointer long enough to effectively prepare boards 10 feet long. I've done this before on a table saw but would hate to do it on a 10 foot board. The fence of the table saw is tiny in length. I just finished a dresser with a solid cherry top a little over 5 feet long. Again the glue joints were prepared with the track saw.

There might be somebody who is good enough with a circular saw to do this kind of work but it is not me. Last Monday I had a teenage boy cut some boards to length with a track saw. It was safe because the tool is relatively safe and I was right there. I would not have had him use the table saw. I did not have him use the sliding miter saw - it was not a good one and required lots of tweaks to cut properly. Track saw was relatively fool proof.

I would not want to be without a table saw and I really like my PCS. But I would rather use a small portable table saw with a decent track saw than I would try and get by with my PCS. Even if the rip capacity was extended from 36 to 52 inches.

I also like my bandsaw and I know others do a lot of things with theirs. I just make curved cuts and cut wide boards to thickness with it. I was without one for a couple years and got by pretty well with my jig saw. But I need to make some dining room chairs and I need a bandsaw for that.

[johnny means]

I can and have run an entire cabinet shop with a table saw, a jigsaw, a router, and a drill. I think the argument for a track saw ignores the impracticality of discrete setup for every single cut.

[Jim Matthews]

I buck lots of conventions here, and I'm a hack.

That said, I think tablesaws are essential only in high production shops with repetitive cut lists.

Tablesaws are expensive and dominate the space in small shops

***
I would be curious to know if the Tablesaw is recommended by anyone under 30.
***

I have a large bandsaw for the rare times I need lots of things "gang cut" to the same size. Similarly, long rips are easy enough with a proper fence.

A track saw guided circular saw handles sheet goods like plywood.

***

I have yet to meet anyone (after more than 10 years as a hobbyist) with a serious injury from a Tracksaw or Bandsaw.

[Mike Rambour]

I have been making sawdust for 40 years with a table saw. Last year I got track saw and my table saw sees a lot less use now. As I get older, cutting sheet goods on the table saw is getting more and more difficult, but with the track saw, its pretty easy. The track saw is also great to get a straight edge on rough lumber assuming you have a track long enough. The track saw issue is for example cutting lots same width stock for rails and styles for example, that is the table saws domain. I don't see these 2 saws as "one or the other" but "as a compliment to each other" and would not have a shop without both. Get yourself a jobsite or contractor table saw and upgrade the fence right away. Also get yourself a track saw, that can be as cheap as a circular saw with some type of track attachment or home made track, or top of the line track saw, but for my shop its both.

[Peter Kelly]

You can't rip on a miter saw but you can on a table saw. Actually, you can.
https://www.virutextools.com/img/product/45_imatge_m.jpg

https://www.virutextools.com/miter-table-saw-combo-tm33w-pid290# (https://www.virutextools.com/miter-table-saw-combo-tm33w-pid290#)

[Mike Cutler]

I can and have run an entire cabinet shop with a table saw, a jigsaw, a router, and a drill. I think the argument for a track saw ignores the impracticality of discrete setup for every single cut.

Johnny

Very good point.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I can and have run an entire cabinet shop with a table saw, a jigsaw, a router, and a drill. I think the argument for a track saw ignores the impracticality of discrete setup for every single cut.

YES!!! That is one of the fatal flaws of the track saw. Another is repeatability. To make one repeatable you have to use some sort of a jig, which is usually a large table, which is ironically the same size as the table saw that they are intended to replace.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

***
I would be curious to know if the Tablesaw is recommended by anyone under 30.
***


Advice is best from those who have tried a few things.

I'd wager that not many of us oldtimers are wasting $ on gimmicks either, so the marketing for the gee wiz gizmos is directed at you young whippersnappers. :)

[Doug Garson]

A circular saw can do many things but it can't do anything that a table saw can't do.
Mind posting a video of cross cutting 6" off the end of a 16' 4" x 6" with a table saw? I agree with those who advise your choice of best saw depends on what you are working with.

[Daniel Fletcher]

Will you have someone else available to assist placing full sheets of plywood onto a table saw? Maybe consider a circular saw with straight edge for plywood breakdown. A contractor table saw for small rips and crosscutting. Those two can get you started.

[johnny means]

Mind posting a video of cross cutting 6" off the end of a 16' 4" x 6" with a table saw? I agree with those who advise your choice of best saw depends on what you are working with.
How many shop projects require a 15.5' length of anything, let alone a 4x6 timber. I'm in the middle of a 20 foot longconference table and don't need to cut anything that long. The OP is asking for advice that actually pertains to entry level activities. There's lithe point in discussing whether or not a 48" or 60" sawmill is more useful. In this particular case a tablesaw absolutely redunds everything about a circular saw.

[Jim Dwight]

Repeat cuts on a track saw only require a simple jig to help position the track. I have two, one for when the workpiece is ahead of the track and the other for when the workpiece is under the track. There is a dado in a piece of 3/4 plywood that grabs the rib of the track and a movable stop block on the other end. I have them set up with a hairline pointer so I don't have to measure. You do have to reposition the track for each cut but I wouldn't consider that another setup. You don't have to clamp the track so moving it only takes seconds.

I would not claim this is easier that using my table saw UNLESS the workpiece is big - like most of a sheet of plywood. Big stuff gets cut by my track saw in my shop. It is more accurate for me working alone and it is much easier. Doing it efficiently only requires simple jigs made from scraps.

I would not like to cut little narrow pieces for cabinet doors on my track saw but I could. Just like I could cut up sheets of plywood on my table saw. But what I do is to use the tool that best fits the task I need to accomplish.

Track saws are, in general, not faster than table saws for much of anything. But they also are not much slower if you know what you are doing and make a few jigs. The key advantage is the reduced need to move large heavy things through a saw. That is hard to do by yourself unless you have good infeed, outfeed, and side support. I think it is also easier to accurately make cuts in large pieces with a track saw - because you are not struggling to guide the material through the blade.

[Richard Coers]

For making furniture, and dependent on style, but you may never need a miter saw. Most of them have accuracy problems and are more for building decks than furniture. Absolutely first for me is a table saw, then a track saw, and with a track saw you may never need a circular saw.

[Doug Garson]

How many shop projects require a 15.5' length of anything, let alone a 4x6 timber. I'm in the middle of a 20 foot longconference table and don't need to cut anything that long. The OP is asking for advice that actually pertains to entry level activities. There's lithe point in discussing whether or not a 48" or 60" sawmill is more useful. In this particular case a tablesaw absolutely redunds everything about a circular saw.
How about if you needed a six inch piece and all you had was a sixteen footer? The point is, in some cases it is better to use a tool that you move to the workpiece rather than vice versa. I do almost all of my cross cuts on the table saw but if I'm breaking down long pieces I use my radial arm saw, jig saw or circular saw. In my small shop, anything longer than six feet is awkward on the table saw but no problem with either of the other three options. I'll bet if you need to put a edge profile on that table top you would use a hand held router not a table mounted router, same principle, sometimes you move the tool, sometimes you move the workpiece.
I assume "redunds" is a typo, what word did you mean?

[Alex Zeller]

A number of years ago I watched a guy installing custom cabinets on a jobsite. Not having a shop close by he had to improvise when he needed to rip a board. He took a 10" circular saw, made a plunge cut on a scrap piece of MDF, and then screwed the saw to it. After flipping the whole thing over and placing it on a couple sawhorses to make a makeshift table saw. Anything can be done. But since it sounds like the OP is just getting started the advice should be which tool will be able to do the most functions with limited skills.

[Derek Cohen]

A number of years ago I watched a guy installing custom cabinets on a jobsite. Not having a shop close by he had to improvise when he needed to rip a board. He took a 10" circular saw, made a plunge cut on a scrap piece of MDF, and then screwed the saw to it. After flipping the whole thing over and placing it on a couple sawhorses to make a makeshift table saw. Anything can be done. But since it sounds like the OP is just getting started the advice should be which tool will be able to do the most functions with limited skills.

Alex, this is exactly how I started out with “machines” some 35 years ago. I could not afford a tablesaw back then, and built a version of the original Triton tool centre - most here only know of Triton as a router, but the company began as one Australian man inventing a fixture to hold a curcular saw, and later a router as well.

https://i.postimg.cc/T3xPghPr/4-AD1-FC35-D171-47-F7-A05-F-E7-F01-B0-DAC55.jpg

It could do a multitude of saw cuts, including trenching ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Vvj8kBn2/840-A362-D-5-EAA-49-CA-9-E90-8338312-EB032.jpg

Eventually, I could afford to purchase one. It lasted a few months before I became frustrated with the need to reset the various settings each time, as it was dissembled to allow cars into the garage. I purchased a contractor tablesaw, and this remained for the next 25 years.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[johnny means]

How about if you needed a six inch piece and all you had was a sixteen footer? The point is, in some cases it is better to use a tool that you move to the workpiece rather than vice versa. I do almost all of my cross cuts on the table saw but if I'm breaking down long pieces I use my radial arm saw, jig saw or circular saw. In my small shop, anything longer than six feet is awkward on the table saw but no problem with either of the other three options. I'll bet if you need to put a edge profile on that table top you would use a hand held router not a table mounted router, same principle, sometimes you move the tool, sometimes you move the workpiece.
I assume "redunds" is a typo, what word did you mean?

The table redunds, as in makes redundant, the circular saw (I suppose the word is a little archaic). Needing 6" inches off of a 16' board is ad absurdum. Yes, it is often the case that a portable tool is the right tool for the job. Imo, that's very rarely the case with a circular vs a tablesaw in a woodshop. The edge on the table particular table was formed on a 15 resaw, but that's a different post. I think you make my point when you say that most of your crosscutting is done on the tablesaw.

[Doug Colombo]

I would say table saw first but as everyone has said it does depend on what you want to build

+1 to Cary’s comment

[Doug Garson]

The table redunds, as in makes redundant, the circular saw (I suppose the word is a little archaic). Needing 6" inches off of a 16' board is ad absurdum. Yes, it is often the case that a portable tool is the right tool for the job. Imo, that's very rarely the case with a circular vs a tablesaw in a woodshop. The edge on the table particular table was formed on a 15 resaw, but that's a different post. I think you make my point when you say that most of your crosscutting is done on the tablesaw.
Very archaic, if fact Chrome spell check underlines it red as misspelled, thus my question. Six inches was an exaggeration to make a point, it could have been cutting a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4"plywood into 2' x 4' pieces to make a box, I would not attempt that on my table saw but a with a circular saw and straight edge it would not be difficult. While most of my crosscuts are with the table saw, why would you limit your tools to do most of your cuts? Most could be 51%, a shop that is only equipped to make 51% of any type of very common cut would be very frustrating. So I didn't make your point, however you did make mine: "Yes it is often the case that a portable tool, is the right tool for the job." That was exactly my point.

[Alex Zeller]

To answer the plywood question, if I don't have my truck and I want some plywood for a project I just have it cut at the lumber yard to about an inch longer than I need. I wouldn't have 20 sheets cut up into various sizes but for one or two I think it's a very viable way to avoid buying a track saw right off. A circular saw shouldn't really be an issue. As long as you don't mind a corded saw there's lots of good used ones for not much money on Craig's list and Facebook. Unless the OP comes back with more information as to what they want to accomplish I would go with a good table saw as my first piece for my woodworking shop.

[Randy Heinemann]

Actually I think everyone is right depending on what is being built and what the long-term woodworking plans are. I am to the point in my life where I imagine I'm an old-timer; 70. However, about 10 years ago I needed to replace an old table saw which was always underpowered anyway. I decided that I didn't need a table saw; only a track saw and a cutting table; actually a Festool tracksaw and a Festool TS55. I will never regret buying the tracksaw and table. It allows me to crosscut more accurately and square than anything else I've used. However, about a year after I started using the tracksaw and table, and after trying several methods of ripping with the tracksaw (especially smaller, thinner rips), I bought a jobsite table saw. I will also never regret buying the jobsite saw. The combination of the tracksaw/table and the small table saw allow me to do just about everything easily, accurate, square crosscuts, accurate rips (even on somewhat larger pieces), and other various tasks that I find are done better and more easily than with other tools like a bandsaw. Can you get along without a table saw? Sure you can. It's much easier and less frustrating sometimes to not go without a table saw.I use my bandsaw when I can and if it suits the job; a lot for resawing but regularly for other things also. I use the router when needed because that is the best tool for the job. I own a few handplanes and especially use a block plane and a smaller block plane when needed. Anyway, I don't own a production shop and don't do a lot of repetitive cuts. However, I don't think I would ever be without a table saw, even a small one, at least for ripping smaller stock. There is just nothing that beats the ease and accuracy of a table saw for, at a minimum, that work

[Joe Hendershott]

There are literally thousands of posts here on that same subject. I'll just add that you use the correct tool for the job, not one tool will do everything. Until i recently got a sliding table saw the track saw was important for me since it's harder to throw around 4x8 sheets than it was 10 years ago. Throw the sheet on a piece of 4x8 1/2 foam insulation, hack it up, and take it to the table saw.

You can also cut accurate angles and miters with it on an MFT table.

Right tool for the job.

[Roger Feeley]

If I was starting over, I would buy the best, non sliding, miter saw I could afford. Then I would buy a nice corded skil saw paying attention to which side the motor is on. I would then build a poor mans track from MDF.

[Jim Dwight]

I think Randy and I are aligned in our thinking on this. If you need to be portable - or put your tools away so cars can also use your workspace, a jobsite table saw and a track saw would be a great setup. I like my PCS but I have a small but dedicated shop garage so I have the space. I used to use a BT3100 which is about the size of a jobsite saw and built a lot of furniture with it.

Ron Paulk has a lot of youtubes on how he works with a tracksaw and jobsite table saw combination. Worth watching if you are thinking this combination might make sense for you. I would MUCH rather have this combination that just a big table saw with 52 inch capacity. I set my BT3100 with about 60 inch rip capacity but it just isn't fun to handle full sheets in a small shop through a table saw.