Straight line rip on TS before jointing face and one edge

[John Sayen]

Hi all,

Recently saw a well respected carpenter on instagram milling some white oak into stair treads and his process was:
Straight line rip one edge on tablesaw using a sled with clamps
Joint face
Joint one edge
Rip the alternate edge

Clearly he knows what he's doing as he has a lot of experience but I am still trying to understand the benefit for the straight line rip, since it's getting hit with the jointer right after? Saving possible time on the edge jointing or something I'm not thinking of?

Thank you.

[mreza Salav]

save time on joining the edge if it was very out of straight...

[Jim Becker]

I straight line rip on the saw in lieu of edge jointing, but I always do it after face jointing and thicknessing, at least partially. You can't get an edge parallel to the faces if they are not flat and parallel themselves first. Straight-lining is a lot easier on a slider, but can be done on a cabinet type saw with a sled.

[John Sayen]

Thank you, this makes sense, he must be saving some time on the joint by straight lining it with a sled one time, rather than making several passes on the jointer he can likely make one. Makes sense.

[Rod Sheridan]

I often straight line and rip rough wood slightly oversized on a sliding table saw.

It saves time and there’s no point jointing and planing firewood ....Rod

[David Zaret]

exactly my approach as well. this is one reason i love mac's clamps on the slider, makes it safe, fast and easy to hold down rough boards for a quick straight-line.

-- dz



I often straight line and rip rough wood slightly oversized on a sliding table saw.

It saves time and there’s no point jointing and planing firewood ....Rod

[Bruce King]

I had planned to post about that same technique and also do some light planing before face jointing saves a lot of effort and wear on the more precious jointer blades.

[johnny means]

I always rip to approximate size first. If you joint then rip, often times the ripped piece will immediately bow. Ripping first releases any tension before straightening.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

If he's using stock with a live edge that first straight line rip lets him get rid of that, live edge can cause drama when face jointing, so might as well get rid of it first. He's just squaring up the stock. I like to straight line rough edge stock that has been roughly cut to length so that I can slightly change the angle of the grain. Especially useful on wider stock and things that will be seen as a way to add some consistency in appearance. Looks better when the grain is all similar, and lots of times adjusting that first rip really helps a board look better. Stairs would be a perfect example of a place to do this, maybe that's what he's up to.

[Kevin Jenness]

I sometimes use the sliding table saw for roughout, but the bandsaw is arguably safer and less prone to pinching with reactive material. The slider is really better suited for flat material.

[ChrisA Edwards]

My compromise to a slider, that I'd love to own, to perform this task.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlypo69JsdA

[John Sayen]

That's how he was doing it as well - makes sense now based on all the comments, basically saving some jointing time by getting the straight line done first. Thanks all.

[Alan Schwabacher]

One other reason: to align the edge with the grain. If the board will need to be ripped narrower and the edge has runout, it's an opportunity to fix that.

The jointer straightens an edge, but the saw lets you decide where the straight edge will be.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

My compromise to a slider, that I'd love to own, to perform this task.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlypo69JsdA I feel an over arm guard with collection would be better than the dust helmet

[Derek Cohen]

In the absence of a slider, the JessEm guides do a wonderful job of preventing unwanted movement which effects a straight cut ...

https://i.postimg.cc/kgwrH4TV/Y1a.jpg

Otherwise, a parallel guide on a slider, if you have one ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Y2xwNWQb/6.jpg

This could be built into a mitre track on a cabinet saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Bender]

When you look down at a set of stairs it is better if the grain in each tread runs straight across the nose. Crazy grain could even effect your balance. But at least it can look amateurish. Also the nose will be more durable if the grain is straight. This would be the reason for his method.

[Jim Dwight]

Cutting a straight line on a longish board is one of the many things a track saw does better than a table saw IMHO.

[Warren Lake]

whats a long board? when I did facias on some homes boards were 15-16 feet long. Jointer worked excellent like it does for most stuff.

No point in saying how I machine wood it depends on the work, steps are different for different work.

[Mike Wilkins]

Not sure about others here, but I get glue-ready rips on my table saw. I also use the jointer for this if the board is thick.
Make sure the table saw is tuned up properly and square to the blade. I use a glue line rip blade, 1/8" thickness and can glue up right after.
-

[Andrew Hughes]

Not sure about others here, but I get glue-ready rips on my table saw. I also use the jointer for this if the board is thick.
Make sure the table saw is tuned up properly and square to the blade. I use a glue line rip blade, 1/8" thickness and can glue up right after.
-
What do you do if the board gets a bow or twist after ripping on the tablesaw. Just clamp it back in shape?
just curious :)