Laser Level quality question

[Ron Citerone]

I m considering a laser level for my cottage renovation kitchen cabinets and tile. I see cheap ones on Amazon as well as a more expensive Dewalt. If the cheap ones have issues, I would consider the Dewalt, but wouldn't if the cheaper ones give decient results. Thoughts?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Ron, yes there is a difference. The main thing is repeatable self leveling. The cheaper lasers mechanism to do the job is pretty weak. They can be useful tools, but check them periodically. You'll find that the more expensive ones tolerate life's little bumps and bruises better. I'm not proud of it, but I knocked Dewalt off a ladder last week, about 8' onto concrete, and it is fine. BTW, Dewalt is not the expensive stuff, there is at least one more price and feature point above Dewalt.

[johnny means]

I've got a Bosch in the $150 range. I've been very happy with it for almost a decade now. It get's used for mostly shop work, and occasionally installs. It's had a few falls and gets neglected from time to time, but still gives me accurate repeatable results. Sometimes I'm rather astonished at how accurate it can be while costing so little. Knowing how expensive mistakes can be, I wouldn't go with a less reputable brand to save $50 or $75.

[Jim Braun]

Similar situation here wanted a decent laser level for the occasional project, but the good ones can be pricey. I bought a reconditioned Bosch gll50 for 1/3 the price of new, looks brand new, works great and meets my needs.
https://www.cpooutlets.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-cpooutlets-Site/default/Search-Show?q=gll50-rt&lang=default
Jim

[Austin Perera]

I'm not a pro, so take anything from me with a grain of salt, but to add I've found that having two different lasers is far more versatile that one device crammed with different lasers. For example, one laser for lines, and another for plum/dots. Once you have your line laser set, you can then move around a plum/dot laser without having to keep moving and adjusting the line laser. I've also found CPO to be a good source as Jim pointed out. Just cross-check the prices on Amazon as occasionally they'll do a sale that makes them cheaper than CPO.

[Ron Citerone]

Thanks guys, lot of good advice. I have a few weeks till cabinet install so I will use your advice to get one. Won’t go with off name one from what I see here.

[Jim Becker]

If I were going to buy one...and I've considered it for my future shop build project...I'd do the self-leveling better quality setup for sure. Consistency is important.

[Tom M King]

I installed cabinets, and did tile in houses I built, for decades before I had ever seen a laser level. I have several now, but still forget I have them sometimes, and do it the old way. If it's just one house, and you're not planning to do any more, I wouldn't put money in a laser level.

For big kitchens, I did use my Builders Level (optical on tripod), to mark the wall, so without one of those, the laser is okay.

I can lay tile on a floor, or wall, to a line, easier, and straighter than I can use the laser line. I use very fine lines. If they made finer laser beams, it would be better.

[Alan Lightstone]

I find self-leveling to be an issue with my Bosch GLC 2-160. Not always easy, even though I use it with a tripod to get within 4 degrees for that to work. Do other units do that better?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I find self-leveling to be an issue with my Bosch GLC 2-160. Not always easy, even though I use it with a tripod to get within 4 degrees for that to work. Do other units do that better?

Yes, that is an unacceptable error in self leveling. I had an old Johnson (IIRK) that did something like that, got retired because I couldn't get it to align. I've not had any issues with the Dewalts, they are rated at 1/8" @ 100ft. The next price point up, Spectra (Trimble), Leica etc will have a lower, 1/16th of an inch at 100' or less. 4% is way to much.

[johnny means]

Yes, that is an unacceptable error in self leveling. I had an old Johnson (IIRK) that did something like that, got retired because I couldn't get it to align. I've not had any issues with the Dewalts, they are rated at 1/8" @ 100ft. The next price point up, Spectra (Trimble), Leica etc will have a lower, 1/16th of an inch at 100' or less. 4% is way to much.
I think he's saying he has to set the level up within 4 degrees of plumb for it to self level. That doesn't seem extreme to me. I assume nobody is laying these things on their side and expecting them to work. Anyone who can't eyeball something approximating level enough to put their beer on has had one too many to be doing carpentry work.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I think he's saying he has to set the level up within 4 degrees of plumb for it to self level. That doesn't seem extreme to me. I assume nobody is laying these things on their side and expecting them to work. Anyone who can't eyeball something approximating level enough to put their beer on has had one too many to be doing carpentry work.

Ahh, very possible and that would be within the norm to get the self leveling to work.

[Alan Lightstone]

Yes, the self-leveling feature only works if the level is within 4 degrees of plumb. But it seems very difficult to get to within that tolerance, for some reason.

[Kevin Jenness]

I installed cabinets, and did tile in houses I built, for decades before I had ever seen a laser level. I have several now, but still forget I have them sometimes, and do it the old way. If it's just one house, and you're not planning to do any more, I wouldn't put money in a laser level.

For big kitchens, I did use my Builders Level (optical on tripod), to mark the wall, so without one of those, the laser is okay.



Water levels still work just fine, more accurate than a laser. So do plumb bobs and 3-4-5 tape checks for square. I have a laser level for convenience, especially good for vertical spotting, but I can still manage to build level, plumb and square with dead batteries.

[Bill McNiel]

FWIW - I have the Bosch GLL2-50, purchase price approx. $125. It gets used primarily for cabinet installs and tile layouts but last year I used it to create level lines for door & window headers though out a 1600 SF remodel. It is "self plumbing" and is accurate and very repeatable/consistent. Because I'm anal I check everything with a bubble level as well and have never had any issue with the laser.

[Jim Becker]

Water levels still work just fine, more accurate than a laser. So do plumb bobs and 3-4-5 tape checks for square. I have a laser level for convenience, especially good for vertical spotting, but I can still manage to build level, plumb and square with dead batteries.

IMHO, they both have a place. Consider the kitchen install that the OP is face with. The laser can provide an overall "level" within the room to get everything on the same plane, literally. And a mid- to high-range unit is pretty darn accurate when setup correctly. Yes, you can do that with a traditional level, but just having to move the level around the room can potentially introduce multiple opportunities for deviation. The laser gives you a single reference line within the whole spare all at once. The water level is still needed for fine/final confirmation when installing each component, but even there, the laser can plan a helpful role.

[Kevin Jenness]

Sure, you can use a water level or a laser to mark an accurate level line around a room, then work off that to set the cabinet heights. The water level has the same accuracy no matter the distance though, and can even work around corners. Lasers are great, but not required.

[fred everett]

I have the Dewalt DW088K and it's been excellent. I seem to use it for everything but proved itself golden when I gutted and tiled two small bathrooms. It took some serious abuse in those small rooms and is still kicking.

455348

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Sure, you can use a water level or a laser to mark an accurate level line around a room, then work off that to set the cabinet heights. The water level has the same accuracy no matter the distance though, and can even work around corners. Lasers are great, but not required.

Lasers are so much simpler though, a water level needs the water holding level adjusted to transfer a mark at height. Normally that pain in the neck doesn't happen though, so you just use it to make level marks, then measure up or down from them to get your desired level marks. It's about 100% easier to just move the laser up or down. I normally just stick my Dewalt with the magnet base on a steel spring pole, no tripod required and gives full room height adjustability.

[fred everett]

Lasers are so much simpler though, a water level needs the water holding level adjusted to transfer a mark at height. Normally that pain in the neck doesn't happen though, so you just use it to make level marks, then measure up or down from them to get your desired level marks. It's about 100% easier to just move the laser up or down. I normally just stick my Dewalt with the magnet base on a steel spring pole, no tripod required and gives full room height adjustability.

I've also stuck the Dewalt's magnet to an outside corner bead. The OP said he plans on doing tile work and imo that's where these tools shine. With almost no tile layout lines to avoid I can trowel on adhesive very quickly. Having said that, I'm pretty sure the OP would find use for the laser in other areas considering he's doing a renovation.