Wrench flats on chucks

[Dave Mount]

I didn't want to hijack the "what chuck" thread to ask this question. The Nova Titan chuck I have (direct thread 1.25" x 8 tpi) doesn't have wrench flats on the back, nor any other way I can see to easily get leverage to back it off if it sticks. My usual solution is to lay a screwdriver or something similar across and between the jaws to get leverage, but this seems like a pretty unrefined approach for something considered a quality chuck. Is there something I'm missing?

Bracing to receive a response that doesn't reflect well on my intelligence. . .

Dave

[David Walser]

Dave -- I believe most users of that chuck use the chuck key.

[David Bassett]

Strap wrench seems the least stressful (to the chuck) way to get extra leverage.

For TeknaTool direct threaded chucks this might be the biggest complaint. (Their inserts have wrench flats.) Or maybe it's second to "I upgraded my lathe and now I have to buy new chucks."

[Dave Mount]

Dave -- I believe most users of that chuck use the chuck key.

I can see that if you didn't need much pressure and when the chuck used one of the "gear" style keys, but mine uses a ball end T-handle Allen wrench, so not well suited for that.

[roger wiegand]

My oil filter wrench works great on chucks. Since I don't change my own oil any more it's available. That said, 99% of the time I ise the chuck key, in this case a 10mm hex wrench.

[John K Jordan]

I didn't want to hijack the "what chuck" thread to ask this question. The Nova Titan chuck I have (direct thread 1.25" x 8 tpi) doesn't have wrench flats on the back, nor any other way I can see to easily get leverage to back it off if it sticks. My usual solution is to lay a screwdriver or something similar across and between the jaws to get leverage, but this seems like a pretty unrefined approach for something considered a quality chuck. Is there something I'm missing?

Bracing to receive a response that doesn't reflect well on my intelligence. . .

Dave

I also have the direct threaded Titan and wish it had flats for the wrench. Gripping a screwdriver or board or something will work unless you do something I often do - leave the piece in the chuck to get back to later after I use the lathe for something else.

Nova sells a "universal" wrench which is supposed to handle all chucks using one of the hex sockets where there are no flats, but I found it unusable with the Titan:
454947

My plan is to put my Titan on the milling machine and cut two flats near the end to fit the wrench. The steel is not hardened.

JKJ

[tom lucas]

I can see that if you didn't need much pressure and when the chuck used one of the "gear" style keys, but mine uses a ball end T-handle Allen wrench, so not well suited for that.

First, cut off the ball and make the tool blunt ended. Else, long term the ball can bugger up the sockets. It'll then work better as a "wrench".

One thing I do if the chuck is empty is to tighten a small straight board in the jaws of the chuck and use it as a handle/torque amplifier.

The big rubber strap wrenches work too.

[John K Jordan]

First, cut off the ball and make the tool blunt ended. Else, long term the ball can bugger up the sockets. It'll then work better as a "wrench".
...

I cut the ball off the end of the chuck hex keys with a Dremel. The chuck key is supposedly designed that way to let the wrench access the socket at an angle in some cases where the clearance is tight. I keep one intact just in case but I have never needed that function.

Apparently Nova had to replace a number of the internal geared sockets that were damaged by people using the balled-end keys to loosen stuck chucks.

JKJ

[Peter Blair]

Just one more reason I love my Oneway Stronghold. When removing the chuck with a turned piece in the jaws is so easy using the chuck key. I have a ball ended key for another chuck and never thought of cutting off the ball. Thanks for the idea John. I'm gonna cut mine off today.