Quality Chucks/Jaws

[Randy Heinemann]

I am considering upgrading my lathe from a Nova Comet II to the Powermatic 2020 and will need to purchase at least 1 new chuck. One of my Nova chucks is actually the proper fit for the Powermatic's 8 X 1 1/4" spindle (without its adapter). That Nova chuck will serve, for now, for smaller bowls, but I need to have a chuck with larger jaws for larger bowls. What chucks are considered high quality? VicMarc and Record I would guess are for sure. However, I have seen other brands like Easy Wood, Proxxon, and even Tecknatool/Nova. Are there any that are considered best?

[Reed Gray]

I have all Vicmark chucks. The Oneway and Nova are all good quality chucks. Not sure about the Easy Wood. They did have some problems when they first came out, but apparently they were fixed. Most of the professional turners use the Vicmark. I called up Craft Supplies to order my first chuck, over 20 years ago. A friend had told me to get the Super Nova. The tech said, if you are going to spend the money, get the Vicmark. I did, and no regrets.

robo hippy

[tom lucas]

I have Vicmarc and Nova chucks. The VM120 that I have is very nice. Really heavy duty jaws. I have two SN2's and a Titan. The Nova's are good, and the Titan is similar in size to the VM120. While I think the Vic is the better chuck, you pay for it. That, coupled with the fack that you already have Nova chucks, leads me to recommend the Titan. This gives you more flexibility since all the Nova jaws are interchangeable (except the quick change chuck). The Titan is good chuck in its own right.

[David Walser]

Randy -- With the exception of the Proxxon, I can say that all the brands you mentioned are quality chucks. So are the chucks from Oneway. A couple of things to consider: Do you want a closed back chuck or an open back chuck? The primary advantage of the closed back chucks is it tightens with a hex key (like an Allen key), while the open back chucks open with a chuck key (like you might use with a drill press, only much larger). Most people prefer using a hex key than a chuck key. More important than the convenience of using the key, is what happens when the key is lost. If you're using an open back chuck, you may have to order a replacement key from the manufacturer -- which can take days if not weeks to arrive. If you have a set of large Allen keys, you probably already have a replacement key for your closed back chuck. Every few months, someone will post on this forum or elsewhere looking for a replacement key for an open back chuck.

A second consideration is whether you want the jaws to be quick attach or not. Most chucks use two grub screws to attach each jaw to the chuck body. That requires removing 8 screws to remove one set of jaws and tightening the 8 screws to attach the replacement jaws. Other chucks, the Easy Chuck from Easy Wood Tools being the most prominent example, allow you to 'snap on' and 'snap off' the jaws. This makes replacing jaws a snap. (Sorry.) This is a material advantage. However, it's easy to overstate it. Most of us have several chucks and we dedicate one of those chucks to a frequently used set of jaws and almost never swap the jaws to another set. This is my approach. I have one chuck body that I reserve for infrequently used jaws. I almost never use that chuck because my others, that have my frequently used jaw sets already mounted on them, are the one I use instead. However, I do occasionally use the chuck that is reserved for infrequently used jaws. So, if all my chucks had easily swappable jaws, I might save 10 - 15 minutes over the course of a year.

You might think that I could get by with fewer chucks if I used one of the quick attach chucks. There is some truth to that, but not much. Every time you take something out of the chuck, it is almost impossible to remount it on the same center. To avoid this problem, I try to keep a project mounted in the chuck until I am through with it. So, I use two chucks for making a box -- one to hold the body of the box and one to hold the lid. Easily swappable jaws wouldn't change that. Besides, Easy Wood Tools hasn't released very many jaw sets for its chuck. The largest is 3.5".

With those things in mind, I prefer Vicmarc chucks. That's the brand I have the most of. I also have two Record Power SC4 chucks. The Vicmarcs and the Record Power chucks are closed back chucks. None of them use easily swappable jaws. I believe the Vicmarc chucks are higher in quality than the Record Power chucks, but either one will serve. If you want a larger chuck, the Vicmarc 120 has a 5" chuck body. The Record Power SC4 has a 4" body. You can get 9" chuck jaws for the Vicmarc. I don't think the Record Power has jaws larger than 5".

HTH

[Randy Heinemann]

Thanks for the responses; all useful. I do like the VM120. It appears to be heavier duty and a good choice for larger turnings. After my post I realized that I could buy a spindle adapter to adapt one of the Nova G3 8 X 1" chucks to 1 1/4" which would mean I'd have 2 of my G3 chucks to start with for bowls at least up to 12" (although I think the chuck is rated for 14"). Thanks Tom for bringing up the jaw compatibility issue. The Titan might be a good choice just for that reason. I have a couple of jaw sets along with a Cole Jaw set and, since I can keep 2 G3 chucks, I could continue to leave the Cole jaws mounted on a chuck, even selling one chuck/jaw set with the old Nova lathe. Once I start moving up to larger, heavier turnings, I could invest in a larger chuck. Makes me feel a little better about the move to the Powermatic lathe, being able to postpone buying a new chuck for awhile (not that I have ever needed an excuse to stop me from buying a new tool). The cost of the Powermatic lathe is enough to last me for awhile.

Thanks again. I appreciate the quick, reasonable advice.

[tom lucas]

I'll also point out that the Novas weigh less than the Vics, which is a bit easier on the bearings/easier for the motor to spin up. Though, it likely won't matter with a PM. Our club shies away from using Vics on their. PM's. I'm guessing it's due to the weight. We needed an extra chuck for a workshop and I had my VM120 with me, but they wouldn't let me use it. I think they are being overly cautious. Our club prefers oneway's, but I hate their keys and open back design.

One other thing, the 2" jaws on the VM120 are probably twice as thick as the same on the Novas. The hold like crazy. Also, Range of travel is much larger on the VM. They easily open at least 1/2" wider than the novas before hitting the stop. This let's me put bigger square stock in the jaws without having to turn down a tenon small enough for one of the Novas. Obviously I love my VM120, and it I could afford it, I'd only have VMs. But the Novas are far more bang for the dollar. That's why I have purchased the SN2's instead of VM100's.

[David Bassett]

... One of my Nova chucks is actually the proper fit for the Powermatic's 8 X 1 1/4" spindle (without its adapter). ...

You sure? I thought Nova used a non-Imperial thread on their adapter chuck bodies. (IIRC- I've heard M33 & proprietary, but neither will correctly fit 1-1/4" x 8tpi spindles.) Sorry to sow confusion, designs change so maybe yours is older or something. But double check.


... What chucks are considered high quality? VicMarc and Record I would guess are for sure. However, I have seen other brands like Easy Wood, Proxxon, and even Tecknatool/Nova. Are there any that are considered best?

Something to consider is the direction you turn the key to tighten the chuck. TeknaTool seems to be the odd-man out. Using the righty-tighty rule, they tighten into a recess while (many/most?) others tighten around a tenon. I'd be OK with either, but a mix would drive me nuts!

[Randy Heinemann]

Don't know for sure about whether Nova's chucks would fit the Powermatic, but they sell both types, metric and imperial. They sell an adapter for the imperial type, which is what I have since the spindle on my Nova is 8 X 1". The specs are either 8 X 1" or 8 X 1 1/4" for all the imperial chucks and adapters. As far as how the key turns, I'm used to Nova's chucks and it most likely would be more confusing for me to switch back and forth. Really, in the end, that isn't much of an issue for me.

[tom lucas]

You sure? I thought Nova used a non-Imperial thread on their adapter chuck bodies. (IIRC- I've heard M33 & proprietary, but neither will correctly fit 1-1/4" x 8tpi spindles.) Sorry to sow confusion, designs change so maybe yours is older or something. But double check.



Something to consider is the direction you turn the key to tighten the chuck. TeknaTool seems to be the odd-man out. Using the righty-tighty rule, they tighten into a recess while (many/most?) others tighten around a tenon. I'd be OK with either, but a mix would drive me nuts!

Nova can be purchased with all size inserts for all common headstocks: 33 mm, 1", 1-1/4", and those used by mini/midis (5/8", 3/4"???). Mine are 1-1/4 8 TPI.

I've read that some of the newer novas have the opposite direction open/close from their older ones. Mine are the original "backwards" style (right loosen). It might depend if you get old or new stock, and I think they added a suffix or something to the model numbers to ID the new ones. If you have none and can get the new ones, it's a whole lot less confusing, as they will work like every other brand.

[David Bassett]

Nova can be purchased with all size inserts for all common headstocks: 33 mm, 1", 1-1/4", and those used by mini/midis (5/8", 3/4"???). ...

I know they sell inserts to fit most lathe spindles which screw into their insert chucks. I also know they sell direct threaded chucks in some sizes, which don't take inserts (so you can't change threading).

OP said he has a chuck that works with 1-1/4" x 8tpi by removing the adapter he needed for his Nova Comet II lathe. I didn't know they offered a model that allowed that. (I suppose he may have a direct thread 1-1/4" x 8tpi chuck and was using some sort of non-insert adapter. I didn't consider that and it would explain how it might work for him. I still advise him to double check.)

*I've was also sloppy using "adapter" when I should have said "insert". Mea culpa.

[tom lucas]

I know they sell inserts to fit most lathe spindles which screw into their insert chucks. I also know they sell direct threaded chucks in some sizes, which don't take inserts (so you can't change threading).

OP said he has a chuck that works with 1-1/4" x 8tpi by removing the adapter he needed for his Nova Comet II lathe. I didn't know they offered a model that allowed that. (I suppose he may have a direct thread 1-1/4" x 8tpi chuck and was using some sort of non-insert adapter. I didn't consider that and it would explain how it might work for him. I still advise him to double check.)

*I've was also sloppy using "adapter" when I should have said "insert". Mea culpa.

No problem, David. I just wanted to make sure anyone reading this that did not know would not misunderstand.

[William C Rogers]

Back to chucks. The Vicmarc and Oneway are quality chucks, but there are others. My first chuck was a Hurricane HTC 125. The HTC chucks are a knockoff of the Vicmarc somewhat. The reason I bought this chuck was because it had a 1 1/2-8 tpi insert to fit my PM90. I still have that chuck and recommend it, however it is a large chuck and not one I would buy multiples of. Because of the mentioned “bang for the buck” I started buying Nova and Record chucks. I reached a point where I had 7 Nova/Record chucks (because we don’t like to change jaws). They are decent, but don’t seem to have the same respect as OneWay and Vicmarc. I was going to replace the Nova/Record chucks with Vicmarc chucks as an upgrade, but came across Axminster chucks. After I got my first Axminster I sold all the Nova/Record chucks and bought a second Axminster chuck. Axminster chucks are stainless steel and all are direct thread. I do not like threaded inserts as they can increase runout (Hurricane has a taper insert). The Axminster has the largest jaw selection of any mfg. I have their O’Donnell jaws that are not available from any other mfg. When you buy jaws you also purchase slides and to change jaws you crank one set out and another set in, no screws to change. There is the expense of slides, but much cheaper than another chuck. Storage is much easier with three chucks vs 7 or more by now.

[Randy Heinemann]

I did check online last night and Nova sells inserts that will change the chuck to either 8 X 1" or 8 X 1 1/4" for their insert chucks, which one of mine is. The other Nova chuck which I would keep is a direct connect chuck for my 8 X 1" spindle. However, Nova lists adapters to convert that to 8 X 1 1/4" also. Whether these are both available right now with some products being out of stock is probably the issue. I know that the insert for my insert chuck is available from at least one retail store. Thanks for the caution though. The adapter descriptions are written so it is sometimes difficult to figure which direction the conversion goes.

All things being equal, I would likely buy a new larger Vicmarc chuck because they seem to be the highest quality. It certainly is worth considering buying another larger Nova chuck though since I can use my current jaw sets.

[Reed Gray]

Tom Lucas, I am not sure why members would shy away from the Vicmark chucks because of weight, and on the PM. I turned on a 3520A for about 10 years. I did have to replace the headstock bearings at about 6 years or so. I was turning bowls with no tailstock support, which I figure was the cause of the bearings going. Use the Vic chucks on my Robust Liberty, and no problems. After years of concrete construction, I prefer things to be overbuilt so I can work with them and not have to worry about them breaking because I was hard on them. I do USE my tools....

robo hippy

[tom lucas]

Tom Lucas, I am not sure why members would shy away from the Vicmark chucks because of weight, and on the PM. I turned on a 3520A for about 10 years. I did have to replace the headstock bearings at about 6 years or so. I was turning bowls with no tailstock support, which I figure was the cause of the bearings going. Use the Vic chucks on my Robust Liberty, and no problems. After years of concrete construction, I prefer things to be overbuilt so I can work with them and not have to worry about them breaking because I was hard on them. I do USE my tools....

robo hippy

I agree, Reed. I was puzzled by the reaction myself: Turn away the best made chuck in the world???? Too much for the almighty 3520? Hmmm, if so, I must really be destroying my cheapo G0766 with that chuck..... but I suspect not. The only issue with that chuck is it tends to overrun on my lathe and wants to unspin if I turn the lathe off at high rpms (direct thread, no grub screw). I have to slow it down or apply friction to it when turning off the lathe.

It's still my favorite because it just doesn't let go. Those beefy jaws simply don't give.

[William C Rogers]

Wait a minute, I don’t think there is a unanimous vote that the Vicmarc is the best chuck in the world or the best quality. It is a quality chuck, but so are OneWay and Axminster chucks. Sorry, but I wouldn’t trade my Axminster chucks for a Vicmarc.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

3110073 (tel:3110073)[/URL]]Wait a minute, I don’t think there is a unanimous vote that the Vicmarc is the best chuck in the world or the best quality. It is a quality chuck, but so are OneWay and Axminster chucks. Sorry, but I wouldn’t trade my Axminster chucks for a Vicmarc.
Agreed - Vicmarks are nice, but certainly not better made or designed than Oneway or Axminster. Any of these chucks will hold work securely and last for decades of heavy work. These are the only three I've got direct experience with, and all my chucks are Oneway either Strongholds or Talons (also have an older Oneway tommy-bar chuck that I still use regularly for smaller work). The happy talk about open back vs closed back is not relevant, in my opinion - one person's problem is another's benefit. Open back chucks are easily inspected for dust and just as easily cleaned when necessary without having to remove a back.

There's one thing for certain - Everyone has an opinion, that doesn't make them all valid, just different. If you've got a dealer handy, or you're in a club, take a look at them before you decide.

[tom lucas]

Wait a minute, I don’t think there is a unanimous vote that the Vicmarc is the best chuck in the world or the best quality. It is a quality chuck, but so are OneWay and Axminster chucks. Sorry, but I wouldn’t trade my Axminster chucks for a Vicmarc.

Come on guys! Don't take things so literally. Geez! You miss the point.

[Alex Zeller]

Vicmarc is the best because I own one, lol. Just kidding. What it really comes down to is how much do you plan on investing in turning. I own just one chuck, a VM120 and it's never let me down. Others here have multiple chucks so they can just change the chuck vs the jaws. If you plan on owning a dozen chucks then going to a Vicmarc or Oneway is a major investment over the less expensive brands. If you are already invested in one brand and like that brand I see no reason to change as long as the jaws will work.

As for a chuck being too heavy for the bearings? I can't see that being an issue. The out of balance rough blank is going to be much harder on them than a few extra pounds of a balanced chuck. Think about it. That 16" diameter oddly shaped log that's spinning just slow enough so your lathe doesn't walk away that's banging as you jab your bowl gouge into is far worse. I guess it could be an issue if your lathe has a VFD speed controller and people just turn the speed control to zero as fast as they can. It could sense the overload of current needed to stop the chuck from spinning and shut off. But that's just poor technique.

[Randy Heinemann]

Speaking of the PM3520. I was considering the 2020B, which is identical to the previous generation of the 3520 except with a short bed since I don't turn spindles and for other reasons. However, the minimum height spindle to floor is 44" on this model (as it was on the 3520B) which is at least an inch higher than would be the maximum spindle height for me. I've tried 43" on my current lathe and that's pushing the comfortable turning position for me. I could buy the 3520C which starts at 40 5/8" and is adjustable upward to much more than, depending on whether you add the feet only or both the feet and the riser block. However, that is really much more lathe than I need and I have started to look at other options. I know this is change in thread subject but, other than lathes like OneWay, Robust, and Harvey (some of which also have minimum heights of 44"), any suggestions? I'm guessing this could bring a flood of posts and I know there are other threats like it already, but I do want a high quality lathe and the price range of the 3520C is OK, just more lathe than I think I need. I really do only turn bowls and am primarily looking for a lathe with significant more over bed capacity than the 12" on my Nova midi.

[David Walser]

Randy -- If you really like the PM 2020, and I agree it sounds like it fits your needs perfectly, couldn't you simply make a short platform to stand on at the lathe? A 2x4 frame with a 3/4" plywood top would raise you up just over 4" -- making the effective spindle height only 40".

[Robert D Evans]

Here's the answer to your lathe height problems:
https://images.halloweencostumes.com/products/7738/1-2/mens-platform-shoes.jpg

[Randy Heinemann]

Sure, I could do that and thought of it. It was even suggested by Powermatic support staff. However, I don't really want to do that. It would need to be around at least the front and the tail end; maybe the head stock end also. It just seems like, when spending as much as the 2020 cost, it shouldn't be necessary. Plus, whenever I step away from the lathe I wpil;d need to be conscious of the 2" step down. Just doesn't seem right to me. I was actually shocked that Powermatic had been selling a lathe for as long as the 3520B and 2020B have been sold that the height couldn't be adjusted downward even a couple of inches. Then I found out that there are other lathes of that caliber that have a minimum height of 44"; like Harvey, one model of Robust, and I found one other but can't remember the brand. I'm 5' 8" which I guess is 1" below average. Even if I were 5"9", which is average height for the US, it still would likely be about an inch too high. The 3520C would certainly work for me. It's just a little bit larger than I need or fits well or than I wanted. I'm still looking and deciding.

[William C Rogers]

Sure, I could do that and thought of it. It was even suggested by Powermatic support staff. However, I don't really want to do that. It would need to be around at least the front and the tail end; maybe the head stock end also. It just seems like, when spending as much as the 2020 cost, it shouldn't be necessary. Plus, whenever I step away from the lathe I wpil;d need to be conscious of the 2" step down. Just doesn't seem right to me. I was actually shocked that Powermatic had been selling a lathe for as long as the 3520B and 2020B have been sold that the height couldn't be adjusted downward even a couple of inches. Then I found out that there are other lathes of that caliber that have a minimum height of 44"; like Harvey, one model of Robust, and I found one other but can't remember the brand. I'm 5' 8" which I guess is 1" below average. Even if I were 5"9", which is average height for the US, it still would likely be about an inch too high. The 3520C would certainly work for me. It's just a little bit larger than I need or fits well or than I wanted. I'm still looking and deciding.

I remember that height was important to me also. I ended up wit a Robust AB. I wanted 43”. Both the AB and Liberty are adjustable from 42” to 49”. So what Robust lathe are you talking about that is 44”?

[Randy Heinemann]

I guess it wasn't Robust since both the Sweet 16 and AB do, in fact, have minimum heights of 42" which would work for me. There were at least 2 brands I researched that started at 44". Anyway, it's getting a little late in life for me to spend over $7,000 on a lathe, especially when the Powermatic 3520C is priced much less, is adjustable to the height I require, and is also considered top end by most. The only downside would be the extra weight (getting it down into my shop) and the extra length. I most to hire local movers to move it in pieces into my shop and, since I would rarely need to park the head stock at the very end of the bed, it wouldn't take up too much more space than the 2020 in my shop and then, only while using it with the head in that position.

[Allen Mattsen]

What Jaws would be a good starting point for with a VM120 chuck?

[Mick Fagan]

What Jaws would be a good starting point for with a VM120 chuck?

It really depends on what you would like to do with them. I run the VM100 chucks (3) and have almost the complete jaws available, but for larger and/or heavier stuff, I use my single VM120 chuck.

The standard jaws (if you purchase the chuck with jaws) have a minimum 48mm contraction (I work on 50mm) with expansion minimum at 68mm. The chuck has 48mm expansion which is quite a reasonable range.

I also have dovetail jaw 105mnm part No. V00676.

Dovetail jaw 128mm part No. V00677.

Dovetail jaw 173mm part No. V00679.

With these four jaw sets I have a reasonably wide range of clamping and expansion possibilities for most of the work I do. I also have the complete set of faceplate rings (four available) and utilising the VM100 and VM120 chucks I can use all four of these faceplate rings.

As you go wider, the jaw sets have deeper dovetails. The standard jaws have 12mm deep dovetails, then a couple of jaw sets larger, the dovetails are 14mm deep, then 16mm a couple more jaw sets larger with the largest jaw set having 18mm deep dovetails.

I have seen their largest jaw set, dovetail jaw 223mm part No. V00682, positively huge. This would probably be perfect for turning coffee table tops or wall hanging platters.

Below is my VM120 chuck with their largest faceplate ring holding a very heavy very wet blank, that I was getting ready to core.

Mick.

456512

[Simeon Mackrides]

I have only used Oneway Stronghold chucks on my GO800 and they have never failed me.

[gordy haycock]

I tried to buy some Vicmarc chucks but everyone was out. I ended up purchasing two Axminster Evolution SK114 chucks. I am amazed at their quality. They don’t require an insert, are a closed back chuck and have quite a few jaws sets available. I like that they don’t have a drill press-style chuck, which it seems I always struggle to get aligned on the first attempt. I like the fact that they are made entirely in the UK and not in Asia.

[Thomas Canfield]

I did not see anyone suggesting getting a spindle adapter to be able to use your existing 1" thread chucks on the 1-1/4" thread of the 2020. I use spindle adapters on a regular basis to use chucks and faceplates from midi lathe on my Powermatic 3520B and also use a spindle adapter to use the 1-1/4" thread on the 1" midi. I do not like to change inserts, and have been happy with some 1" direct thread chucks. I like to use the little 2" face plate with 1" thread from PSI is one of my favorites since I can face with 2-1/8" Forstner bit, and it gets used as a drive with the live center for support on some fairly good size green wood on my Powermatic using a thread adapter. Also cheaper than inserts.

[David Walser]

I did not see anyone suggesting getting a spindle adapter to be able to use your existing 1" thread chucks on the 1-1/4" thread of the 2020. ...

Thomas -- I'm glad you've had good success using spindle adapters. Like you, I have some to go from 1" to 1-1/4" and vice versa. In a pinch, they can be just the ticket.

However, they are seldom ideal. The spindle adapter introduces another source of runout error. With quality spindle adapters, that's not too big a deal. We're talking woodturning, not a machine shop.

A bigger deal is the fact spindle adapters move the chuck and blank further away from the headstock spindle bearings. With light blanks, that's not much of an issue. However, with heavy, out of balance blanks, the extra leverage of being farther out from the headstock can materially increase vibration. I'm NOT saying it will harm the lathe. I'm saying the vibration can make it more difficult to do quality work.

[Allen Mattsen]

After much research and seeing one a club member had I went with the VM120, which arrives tomorrow. I went with the non-insert version since I don't plan to also run it on my smaller Midi lathe. I don't care for the T-bar style of the Nova G3 I have. This was a buy once cry once decision for me. A lot of coin for one chuck, but by all accounts a good foundational type of purchase that should last many years.

That said, I am looking at spindle adapters for mounting a 1" chuck on a 1-1/4 spindle, if anyone has a recommendation. The Nova is $44 but can be locked down for reverse sanding, most of the others are in the $20 range.

[Reed Gray]

I had one, and didn't like it. Main reason is that it increased what minimal run out there already was on the chuck set up. It also puts you out farther off of the headstock spindle, and that adds to vibration issues. If you can afford it, get another chuck. It is not worth the time to switch the inserts.

robo hippy

[Thomas Canfield]

Thomas -- I'm glad you've had good success using spindle adapters. Like you, I have some to go from 1" to 1-1/4" and vice versa. In a pinch, they can be just the ticket.

However, they are seldom ideal. The spindle adapter introduces another source of runout error. With quality spindle adapters, that's not too big a deal. We're talking woodturning, not a machine shop.

A bigger deal is the fact spindle adapters move the chuck and blank further away from the headstock spindle bearings. With light blanks, that's not much of an issue. However, with heavy, out of balance blanks, the extra leverage of being farther out from the headstock can materially increase vibration. I'm NOT saying it will harm the lathe. I'm saying the vibration can make it more difficult to do quality work.

I almost always will be using a live center for rear support if the piece is out of balance, even to start removing the inside leaving a cone in center to remove later. I am usually using the spindle adapters for smaller pieces if going from 1-1/4 down to 1" to use a smaller chuck. Can't see that much extra load on the headstock spindle bearings being an issue compared to larger pieces hanging out there with large chucks and faceplates.

[Joe Bradshaw]

As someone has already said, buy once cry once. All the chucks mentioned are quality chucks. Buy one brand and stick with it. I went with the Oneway brand and have not been disappointed with them. I like to have 4 chucks for each lathe. Two with #2 jaws, One with pen jaws and one with #3 jaws. Of course, if you have more than one lathe, this gets expensive. I have had my oldest Talon for 18 years and it works as well as it ever did. I do take my chucks apart if they get sticky. I think that I have 14 Oneway(4 lathes).
Joe