Room for my lathe

[Jim Tobias]

I have recently( last couple of years) gotten more into some turning in conjunction with flatwork. About 2-3 years ago I bought a Laguna 1836 on mobile base so I could roll it out on a nice, non rainy day and keep all the dust, etc. outside of the shop. That has worked well, except as I am using the lathe more now( and getting older, 71), and I learn more about turning, the weather(rain/cold) seems to happen quite often.
So, I am about to build(contract) an addition to the shop for the lathe. Probably ~250-275 sq ft. I am trying to think of particulars as I go so I won't regret leaving out a good idea. Any suggestions that I should think about in terms of layout of the room. I am planning to have the lathe along a wall that is in close proximity to a door so I can blow some shavings( not the resin ones) out easily . Planning a window in front of the lathe so the view outside is pleasant and plenty of light. My dust collector(Oneida whole shop unit) is in a closet just on the other side of an adjoining wall ( 12' from where lathe will be positioned) so I am hopeful that I can tap through that wall and run a drop around the ceiling to the lathe. Any suggestions on size of ductwork? I was thinking 6" or even 8" because it is so close ductwork cost would be minimal .
Suggestions on lathe tool location (gouges, carbide tips, chuck jaws, etc.) would be helpful.....what has worked for you? I am planning to move the sharpening table to this room.
I have a lot of mobile tables, etc. in my shop so I like to have that option when possible.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I fall into the vortex a little further. :) I still do flatwork and will continue to do so, but turning is very enjoyable and relaxing.

Thanks,
Jim

[Kevin Jenness]

On dust collection, as big a duct as possible- if your cyclone inlet is 8" then bring an 8" drop to the lathe.

I like to have access to the back side of the lathe, so mine is about 30" from the back wall. My tools are on a rack near the tailstock- having to reach over the lathe to grab a tool is a potential hazard. I set up an overhead trolley so I can pick up a heavy piece with a chain hoist and move it in two axes for mounting, but if you can arrange enough room at one end you could have a simpler setup with one overhead track centered on the lathe ways. I have some tools on the back wall and a rolling chest of drawers for abrasives, chucks and various small items, which is usually covered with the tools in use and a step away from the lathe. Sharpening station is on the back wall to the left of the headstock. The bandsaw is close by, and I have an edge sander near the right end on which I set my tailstock when needed.

[tom lucas]

Compressed air at the lathe. Plenty of overhead lighting. A floor sweep on the dust collector. Room for a vacuum chuck. Leave space for turning off the end of the lathe if you have a sliding head. Plenty of 110V AC outlets for other tools. Storage storage storage & dispensers for sandpaper and towels.

[Jim Tobias]

On dust collection, as big a duct as possible- if your cyclone inlet is 8" then bring an 8" drop to the lathe.

I like to have access to the back side of the lathe, so mine is about 30" from the back wall. My tools are on a rack near the tailstock- having to reach over the lathe to grab a tool is a potential hazard. I set up an overhead trolley so I can pick up a heavy piece with a chain hoist and move it in two axes for mounting, but if you can arrange enough room at one end you could have a simpler setup with one overhead track centered on the lathe ways. I have some tools on the back wall and a rolling chest of drawers for abrasives, chucks and various small items, which is usually covered with the tools in use and a step away from the lathe. Sharpening station is on the back wall to the left of the headstock. The bandsaw is close by, and I have an edge sander near the right end on which I set my tailstock when needed.

Yeah, I assumed that I should go as large as possible on ductwork. Good idea to leave some room on the backside of the lathe.
The rolling chest/cart sounds like a good suggestion for tools/abrasives, etc.
Thanks for the suggestions....it keeps me thinking about what would work best.
Jim

[Jim Tobias]

Compressed air at the lathe. Plenty of overhead lighting. A floor sweep on the dust collector. Room for a vacuum chuck. Leave space for turning off the end of the lathe if you have a sliding head. Plenty of 110V AC outlets for other tools. Storage storage storage & dispensers for sandpaper and towels.

I have a small mobile compressor that I have been using with the lathe...planning to use that although the noise could be irritating inside the room. Lighting I am definitely doing as my eyesight needs more the past few years.
Room for a vacuum chuck is something that I had not thought about.....how much space does that require, generally? I haven't moved the headstock to turn off the end but that may become a possibility.....will plan for that.
Floor sweep sounds good but do you sweep large piles of large shavings directly into your floor sweep?

Thanks for ideas.
Jim

[George Yetka]

I personnaly wouldnt keep the DC to close, close enough to pick up fines/medium at most. My DC has a 40 gallon can on it and depending on what im doing it fills fast. Im not a huge turner but from what ive seen people get in the zone, and chips definitely fly when turning.

[tom lucas]

I have a small mobile compressor that I have been using with the lathe...planning to use that although the noise could be irritating inside the room. Lighting I am definitely doing as my eyesight needs more the past few years.
Room for a vacuum chuck is something that I had not thought about.....how much space does that require, generally? I haven't moved the headstock to turn off the end but that may become a possibility.....will plan for that.
Floor sweep sounds good but do you sweep large piles of large shavings directly into your floor sweep?

Thanks for ideas.
Jim
I would want to acoustically isolate the dust collector and the compressor just so I wouldn't have to wear hearing protection and could listen to radio/tv/cutting while turning. That would mean plumbing air to your lathe.

As for as sweep, I don't have one but want one. I use a wand right now, but think a sweep would be easiest to get up the bulk of the shavings rather than picking up by hand or with a wand. I'd probably do it more frequently too, at least the bulk of it. And yes, just sweep in front of opening and it is sucked up. A powerful vacuum will probably also dust your shoes :)

I'm not a fan of having a grinder too close due to the dirtiness of metal dust. Mine is 3 steps behind me, across the room in an "isolated" area away from all other woodworking stations. Others have it right there beside them. I'm just not disciplined enough to keep from spreading the black iron dust onto projects. Though I could have it just 1 or 2 steps back behind me.......maybe in my next shop.

A vacuum pump is about the same size as a 2HP induction motor. Mine is mounted on a shelf attached to the outside of the left leg of the lathe, under the motor. Mine uses space that is otherwise wasted. Others just store it and pull it out when in use. There are also venturi vacuums that use your air compressor. These are smaller, like cigar box size and don't require AC power. I've seen vacuum pumps suspended from the ceiling on a shelf above the headstock. That is a good design, especially with taller ceilings. Pump stays cleaner there and isn't where you'd hit your head on it.

[Kevin Jenness]

My dust collector catches the worst of the dust, especially from sanding, but the great bulk of shavings wind up on the floor. Most of that volume is from green wood and not wanted by the dairy farm where I take my dry shavings so it winds up "over the bank" in the wooded ravine near my shop. I would be buried without my aluminum grain scoop/snow shovel and a 30 gallon drum to keep the floor clear.

[Jon Nuckles]

I prefer to use a grain scoop to get the shavings, esp. if it is green turning, rather than use the dust collector. You can isolate your compressor if that is easy, but you can also buy a quiet compressor. I have a Rolair that is quiet enough to listen to music over.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks Tom for suggestions. I think I will have enough room for a vacuum at the end when I hopefully get to that stage.
I do like the suggestion of running air to this room from my compressor. It is only on the inherent side of a wall and would require a long run to get there. Although my little mobile California Air Tools compressor is pretty quiet, I would prefer to leave it in the garage for other uses.
The Dust collection is going to be connected to the whole shop Oneida cyclone which thankfully is also on the other side of the wall in a closet so that will save a footprint of a separate mobile dust collection unit and save some noise.
I wanted to ask what others do for collecting/gathering filings/metal dust from grinders(CBN wheels).? I do think I will put it on opposite side of room but want it near a window for extra light during the day.

[Jim Tobias]

Yeah, I'm planning to mostly use Dust collection for dust while sanding, although if it catches a few chips all the better. I have a aluminum grain shovel that I have been using outside ....especially for any resin shavings.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks JOB
n,
The grain shovel is a holdover I have from when we first moved to NC 33 years ago and I had to deal with winter snows. It comes in handy now for shavings......the snow, I just wait for it to melt!
I hope to resolve the air issue by running some lines from the main shop.

[tom lucas]

I wanted to ask what others do for collecting/gathering filings/metal dust from grinders(CBN wheels).? I do think I will put it on opposite side of room but want it near a window for extra light during the day.

I keep a couple of strong magnets in a ziplock baggy under the back of each wheel. These collect a lot of the dust. You can then just pick them up and wipe into the trash. But I put mine in the vegetable garden beds for the iron. The rest I vacuum with a shop vac, but not as often as I should.

[Jim Tobias]

I keep a couple of strong magnets in a ziplock baggy under the back of each wheel. These collect a lot of the dust. You can then just pick them up and wipe into the trash. But I put mine in the vegetable garden beds for the iron. The rest I vacuum with a shop vac, but not as often as I should.

Good idea! I've done that when filing something by hand but didn't think about it for this larger scale. I'll definitely use this.
Jim

[John K Jordan]

For me the wall space is so valuable, even more than the window. Perhaps put a window on a different wall or put in a good quality skylight. We have 6 skylights in our house and they are wonderful for light - except at night! I designed my shop with seven windows then cut that to three to preserve the wall space. I use incredibly good lights throughout the shop which make it as bright as a sunny day even at night and on dreary days.

I have a "turning alcove" in my shop, 12' wide by 8' deep, big enough to have two lathes, a work bench, and almost everything I use for turning. On pleasant days I can open the double doors. I originally had my sharpening station in the alcove but I moved out when I decided to add the second lathe. The alcove has a drill press but the bandsaw and sharpening station are close. My philosophy is to keep all the things I use the most as close as possible.

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I like my lathes near a wall so I can keep the things I use the most within arm's reach when standing at the lathe. I built an extra wall extending out into the shop just to have the extra wall space.

Besides tool rests and often-used calipers and such the wall has two very useful small shelves, one with a plywood "skirt" which not only hides wiring for task lights but give me a place to mount magnets to hold a variety of things like vernier calipers, rulers, and pencils. The wall also holds a rolls of sandpaper, paper towels, and little bins for very fine sandpaper.

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I have a workbench immediately behind me with two shelves, three shallow drawers for unhandled tools, and a built-in tool rack for longer handled lathe tools. As small roll-around cabinet with three drawers is next to the workbench. Within three steps to the right I keep a mechanic's toolbox for smaller tools like card scrapers, diamond hones, vernier calipers, center drills, small saws, etc, this on a wooden stand with tools positioned horizontally (points out for quick identification). The whole thing sits on a metal cabinet with some solvents and drawers for chucks and other smaller tools. There is enough room in the cabinet drawers for 20 chucks, extra jaws, spare respirators, and some other supplies.

A rack on the wall holds the tools I use the most, arranged so I can see each one easily. A built-in shelf unit holds finishes, sandpaper, and other things. A floor-to-ceiling cabinet with doors on the opposite corner of the alcove keeps many things I don't access as often.

I mounted high shelves all the way around the alcove to hold things I want to keep near but don't use much, and for all aerosol cans. I use a folding step stool to reach these shelves and a long-reach grabber to access the rattle-can finishes.

The bottom line is almost everything I use is within arm's reach or a few steps away.

Having the lathes next to the walls isn't for everyone but it works extremely well for the things I like to turn the most.

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My dust collector and big air compressor is in a sound-insulated closet on the other end of the main wood shop with remote controls to turn it on and off. This makes it so quiet two can carry on conversations comfortably.

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JKJ

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks for the info John. I really appreciate the pictures as I am a visual learner.....I can read some explanation of something and have a visual that is not what was intended. Couple of questions. I'm thinking about using one of those rotating displays like you see in stores and rigging up a solid way of putting my lathe tools(gouges, scrapers, carbides, etc.) on it so I can have them at hand but can also move them around when needed. Any pros and cons to that idea? I also notice that you store your tools horizontally on the wall.....any particular reason of just personal preference?
I'm definitely considering combining windows so that I have more wall space ....but enough window space. I love the skylight idea but the screen porch addition will be above that portion of shop roof. Maybe some transom type windows would add light and only take up a little "High Wall Space".
I'm really trying to plan this as much as possible so I don't have many regrets later.
Jim

[John K Jordan]

Thanks for the info John. I really appreciate the pictures as I am a visual learner.....I can read some explanation of something and have a visual that is not what was intended. Couple of questions. I'm thinking about using one of those rotating displays like you see in stores and rigging up a solid way of putting my lathe tools(gouges, scrapers, carbides, etc.) on it so I can have them at hand but can also move them around when needed. Any pros and cons to that idea? I also notice that you store your tools horizontally on the wall.....any particular reason of just personal preference?
I'm definitely considering combining windows so that I have more wall space ....but enough window space. I love the skylight idea but the screen porch addition will be above that portion of shop roof. Maybe some transom type windows would add light and only take up a little "High Wall Space".
I'm really trying to plan this as much as possible so I don't have many regrets later.
Jim

I heartily support extensive preplanning! You should see my huge notebook with sketches of evolving plans before I even put up the walls on my shop! As for light at the lathe, I find a huge advantage to using multiple adjustable task lights with small sources instead of overall even lighting such as from a ceiling full of fluorescent or LED fixtures. Light from smaller sources make it easier to see to evaluate the complex curves of a piece and much easier to see scratches and turning defects.

The rotating tool storage (or any type of tool rack on the floor) would trade floor space for wall space.
The usefulness of a specific tool storage solution may depend on the kinds of things you like to turn, how you like to work, and how many tools you end up with. (if there is an end)

I like ways of holding tools so I can see the working ends of the tool. For example, I keep 7 or 8 skews ready for use. If I stored them in a rack with the points hidden I'd have to guess which was which or code/mark the handles somehow. The horizontal tool placement lets me see the whole tool at once so I can instantly grab the right one. I can't hunt for a specific handle since I keep a number of tools in replaceable handles. Here again, if I can see the entire tool, I know what it is before reaching.

I don't have enough wall space to display all tools at once, so I store certain tools on shallow shelves with the handle towards the back and the "pointy end" towards me. This way I see at a glance which tool is which. (Some people say "you can't do that, you'll stab your hand" but I say he who runs hand into sharp point of tool should trade turning for basket weaving :))

I keep many tools without handles in one of the shallow drawers in the workbench just behind me, basically most of the Hunter and Thompson tools that are not currently in a handle. This may look like a mess but I can quickly find what I want and put it in a handle in a few seconds.. Some of these are spares, for example I keep multiple 3/8" spindle gouges with identical grinds and when one gets dull I replace it with a sharp one from the drawer and set the dull one aside then sharpen them all at once. This way the turning is not interrupted. (all the working edges are protected with plastic tubing)

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Also, I've posted this before but I make the inserts to hold tools from aluminum, brass, or steel. I usually use the metal-cutting lathe but have made some on the wood lathe (with standard woodturning tools).

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This method REALLY cuts down on the space I need to store tools.

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(If it looks like I have too many tools, I might. But it doesn't seem so many with 3 or 4 people turning at once!)

JKJ

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks John for all the suggestions...... they really get me thinking in many directions .I agree with your statement about trading wall space for floor space. This rotating floor display stand is already using a footprint in my regular shop space so I am gaining/trading space in a sense. I like the way you have tools mounted horizontally and agree about being able to see the whole tool and find the right one quickly/efficiently. I may do some of that but use the rolling/rotating display for the ones the are in use on a given project. I have used the clear vinyl tubing for the same purpose on some chip carving tools. That might be useful on the lathe tools also.
As for light. you can be assured that I am going to have it bright and several task lights also....I find my eyes need much more "brightness" to clearly see what I am working on or measuring or centering a hole, etc.

Thanks again for the help,
Jim

[Walter Mooney]

We have a very accomplished turner in our club who’s shop is in what once may have been a carriage house. It’s a really nice setting. He has his lathe in front of a window that looks out onto his beautiful yard. One day, several years ago, a piece came off his lathe. Fortunately, it did not come off toward him. It went through the window! The window replacement involved removing trim and siding from his beautiful little building to install a new window. So you might want to reconsider a window in line with your headstock! 😉

[William C Rogers]

Jim this is my lathe setup. I have a large pole barn, but the lathe occupies a 8’ X 8’ area. I have everything within reach. My grinders are next to the lathe along a wall. Excuse the mess as I keep forgetting to take a picture when clean.

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[Kevin Jenness]

Like you Jim flatwork was my gateway to turning. This is the turning corner of my shop. Wall space is at a premium, so the rolling chest was necessary to get me out of the weeds.

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[Jim Tobias]

William,
Looks well organized with everything nearby. I assume the grinders are close to the lathe?
Jim

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks Kevin,
I plan to use "rolling carts" for some items for sure. I like the options when things are on wheels.
I agree with your comment about wall space is always at a premium. But those windows are also very appealing as I think seeing outside occasionally keeps me from feeling like I'm in a cave. My shop has a lot of windows and the natural light is hard to beat. I do see that you have some solid wall behind the "danger zone" of your lathe.....someone else had mentioned that windows need to be strategically located. :)

Jim

[Dan Gaylin]

Hi Jim,

Not the expert that so many who have already relied are. I will just note that I have gone from having my lathe against the wall to having it well away from the wall when I am turning (when I turn inside). Three reasons: it is less claustrophobic, it is easier to adjust the dust collection hood to the particulars of the piece I am working on, and cleanup is much easier. When it was against the wall I was always having trouble cleaning up the shavings. So I might suggest a set up where the lathe is stored against the wall but you pull it out (on wheels) and do your turning away from the wall. Easily done with your Laguna 1836 which has a very good optional mobility system. Just my $0.02.

[John K Jordan]

Jim this is my lathe setup. I have a large pole barn, but the lathe occupies a 8’ X 8’ area. I have everything within reach. My grinders are next to the lathe along a wall. Excuse the mess as I keep forgetting to take a picture when clean.

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I like your setup. Your sharpening station is similar to mine but I use a Tormek along with some grinders. I like the air cleaner near the sharpening - that should catch some of the ultra-fine steel dust I see floating around my shop.

How do you like the Sorby ProEdge sharpener? Which tools do you use it for? Do they make a belt that will cut carbide?

I thought about getting one, perhaps for scrapers and a few other special tools. I do like the hollow grind on skews and gouges.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

... When it was against the wall I was always having trouble cleaning up the shavings. ...

Hi Dan! I used to have that problem. Then one day at Walmart I found something that works for me:

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The tub is pushed up tight against the wall and catches almost all of the shavings that would otherwise be on the floor. I put a smaller one under the second lathe but I'd like to find another big one:

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The lathe against the wall is not for everyone - those who turn hollow forms and large bowls can make good use of the space around the lathe. But perhaps the "tub" method might be of interest to some.

JKJ

[William C Rogers]

I like your setup. Your sharpening station is similar to mine but I use a Tormek along with some grinders. I like the air cleaner near the sharpening - that should catch some of the ultra-fine steel dust I see floating around my shop.

How do you like the Sorby ProEdge sharpener? Which tools do you use it for? Do they make a belt that will cut carbide?

I thought about getting one, perhaps for scrapers and a few other special tools. I do like the hollow grind on skews and gouges.

JKJ

John, I don’t know how I like the Proedge as I just got it the other day. I plan to use it for scrapers, skews, and roughing gouges. I sharpen my bow and spindle gouges using the Michelsen Vector grind and by far I really like that. I try the pro edge on some older M2 and sharpen with a 1200 belt for a final pass gouge. I doubt I give up my Vector jig. The do make a belt for carbide. It’s a diamond belt that cost ~$189. Suppose to last 15-20 times longer, not sure of the grit and is not in my arsenal. I haven’t tried a flat grind skew yet. I have seen pros and cons, so it will be turners preference I guess. The sharpening is just the other side of the lathe. My vacuum pump is on the wall, I’ll take a picture of that. The rack with pegboard has all my sanding supplies and is on wheels (called a “Z” rack.

[Mick Fagan]

How do you like the Sorby ProEdge sharpener? Which tools do you use it for? Do they make a belt that will cut carbide?

I thought about getting one, perhaps for scrapers and a few other special tools. I do like the hollow grind on skews and gouges.

JKJ

John, I've had a Tormek for around 15 years, it is brilliant, but slow as anything for shaping.

My Men's Shed has the Sorby Pro Edge, for shaping and sharpening of big tools it is the bees knees compared to the Tormek.

I too prefer the hollow grind of the Tormek, plus the super sharpness without anything getting into the atmosphere. The Sorby, if used with some of their 3200 grit(?) belts, have perfect super quick sharpening ability. One does have to change belts but that isn't an issue.

If I had my time over again, I would probably be very satisfied with the Sorby unit, much cheaper than the Tormek.

My preference is for all spindle and bowl gouges to be sharpened and shaped on the Tormek, as well as sharpening of skew chisels.

I prefer to shape skews on the Sorby, then sharpen them on the Tormek.

With heavy use, like what happens at my Men's shed, the Sorby does get a slight inwards curve on the flat plate behind the linishing belt. The assumption I have is that in the Shed environment, bucket loads of woodworking chisels are sharpened in the centre of the belt and pressure is a constant when sharpening, so the back of the belts do wear the backing plate a little. For a single workshop, I wouldn't think this is an issue.

One feature of the Sorby unit is that one can use it at 90º vertical, or flat as a bench top, or at any angle in-between. Depending upon what is being sharpened, one adjusts the angle of the linishing belt so it is comfortable and easy to use the machine.

I've had access to the Sorby for around 2-3 years, it is a very good system and is what I suggest new turners have a good look at as most if not all new to turning people are unaware of the Sorby Pro Edge unit even existing.

Mick.

[William C Rogers]

See post 20.

These are pictures of my vacuum setup. It is located just to the right of the window. For my lathe you just push in the vacuum adapter. When I am going to use vacuum I install the adapter and move the on/off toggle switch to the headstock(second picture). My bleed valve is at the pump location, but easily reachable while standing in front of the lathe. The last picture shows a better view of my sanding and Axminster chuck jaws along the top. The cart was a free-be from a sewing store and is on wheels. It has a magnetic strip across the top cart for Allen wrenches and small hand tools. My chucks are easily accessed and the peg board has sorted wrenches, saws and misc tools. Behind the cart is another piece of pegboard that has measuring and indexing. My sharpening station is on the other side of the sanding supply peg board along the wall under the air cleaner.. There is also a cabinet next to that that has the buffing, drill bits, and hollowing bars in it. My dust collection is whole shop and I use the large bay cyclone and a 3 hp old Jet DC system. I am also able to vent outside. I had my lathe up against a wall at one time. However I like the lathe being perpendicular to the wall much better. This gives me a wall for my lathe chisels making them easy to reach and the Z rack with my sanding supplies in front is reachable. I think I have packed as much as I can into a 8’ X 8’ space, but is not crowded.

EDIT: Chips will get on various things, but not really a problem as they are easily removed with air or a brush. Note the PVC holders are cut at an angle on the bottom to allow chips tom pass through when there is no tool in the holder.

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[Dan Gaylin]

John, I like the bins under the lathe, pretty clever. Don't they get in the way of your feet?

-Dan

[John K Jordan]

John, I like the bins under the lathe, pretty clever. Don't they get in the way of your feet?

-Dan

No. The front is about 12" back from the front of the legs, about 6" or so from the front of the bed of the PM3520b. I do have the feet of the lathe positioned about 6" from the wall to allow room for the dust collector pickup and to allow me to push the banjo all the way back without hitting the wall.

JKJ