Best Full-Sized Lathe / Upgrade Help

[Allen Mattsen]

I'd like to ask the forum for help researching and deciding on a full-sized lathe.

The best unit for me within my budget of $4500. I'm a fairly new turner, retired at 50yrs old, and have decided to invest in woodturning as my primary hobby moving forward. I love it! The reason I say "best unit for me" is I also have a significant back issue which is a factor in deciding on some of the features I think I'll need. A swing-away tail stock or similar feature is one I feel strongly about. While in 5 yrs I may have the funds to move to the top of the class (Robust), I don't think I can make that happen within the next couple of years and am already bogging down and outgrowing my Laguna 1216, which I really do like. So, please help give me some experience and perspective on what might be the best choice and why.

I was very tempted by the new Rikon at it's price point and capacity, but think being able to work off the end of the lathe (sliding or pivoting headstock) could make things more physically enjoyable for me. Outboard turning similarly could accomplish the same task. How much are folks using outboard turning or working off the end of the lathe regularly? I enjoy bowls and platters and have access to any size lumber (capacity?) in my area and like to turn green wood (steel beds?). I don't plan a need to do long spindle work.

The Powermatic 3520c seems like a reliable, hard to find fault with machine in this price range, and, a somewhat easy choice based on my reading/research, but I want to explore all the options and learn from you folks. I really like the look of the Laguna machines but are they really only a 1yr warranty? Is that a deal-breaker? Seems everything else it has going for it. The Harvey has a strange servo motor I know nothing about. If doing coring or hollowing is a 3HP choice leg up over the Powermatic? I haven't turned on any of these other machines and am sure there are some alternative I haven't yet considered. I hear Powermatic resale value is good. The used market is dry as a bone in my area (Portland/Vancouver, WA). Thanks in advance.

Laguna 2436 $3900
3HP, sliding headstock, steel beds, outboard turning, 1yr warranty, swing away tailstock


Rikon 70-3040 $3400 (on sale now)
3HP, 5yr warranty
No sliding headstock, no outboard turning, unproven, no swing away tailstock.


Powermatic 3520c $4000~$4500
2hp, sliding headstock, 5yr warranty, proven workhorse/reliable, swing-away tailstock


Harvey T60 $3800
Sliding headstock, relative unknown to me, swing away tailstock


------
Grizzly G0800 - not making anymore, recent reports of poor shipping/damaged machine(s)
Jet 1840 $2700, few features, am I missing something?
-------
Out of price range:
Robust American Beauty, etc ($6800+), Oneway, Vicmarc.

[tom lucas]

The safe bet is the Powermatic.

But that Harvey sure is a beauty. A lot of features for the money. I wish several would buy it and report back on the performance of that servo motor. As far as I know Harvey is the only one using a Servo. BTW, the G0800 is basically the same lathe as the Harvey except with it had a 3HP induction motor rather than a servo motor. And as I understand it, Harvey makes the Powermatic lathes.

The Rikon is an interesting space saver, but I think the lack of a sliding headstock would keep me from buying it. Still a pretty nice lathe.

The Lagunas are kind of hit or miss on quality control and customer support. A nice lathe if you get one of the good ones. I've recently read there is a long backlog to get one too. Not sure if that's all models or not.

I thought there was a Vicmarc in the $4k range. No?

Have you looked at Record?

[Rush Paul]

We just went through this thought process regarding a lathe for our retirement community's woodworking shop. We'd settled on a Powermatic 3520C after considering Robust (out of our budget), Laguna and Grizzly. But, we then started thinking about whether we really needed that full 35" spindle to spindle turning distance. After consideration, we've ordered a Powermatic 2020B. It has the same swing as the 3520C at 20", the same massive cast iron bed, the same cast iron legs, and nearly the same weight at 559lbs. Overall, its the same lathe as the 3520, just shorter from spindle to spindle. We took the $800 savings and invested in some good quality chucks and turning tools.

Good luck in your search.

[tom lucas]

Oh, and Oliver has a new lathe in this price range.

[mike ash]

I’m thinking powermatic. I have been extremely happy with the 3520B that I’ve put to the test for the past 15 years with only 1-$15 switch fix. The 3520C is a nice looking machine that I would jump at purchasing. The full length bed comes in handy when you need it and if your shop space isn’t limited. Powermatic has a 10% off sale a couple times each year so watch for that.

[Allen Mattsen]

Oh, and Oliver has a new lathe in this price range.

Interesting... This one? https://olivermachinery.net/18-classic-lathe

[Richard Casey]

Allen, I can't help you with your choice of lathes as we get other different ones downunder, but if you are concerned about the bedway rusting, I use a product called Corrosion X. I think it is made in the US and I use the Aircraft grade spray, smells horrible, but it is the best protection I have ever used. Do a google search as I can only access Aussie sites.
Hope this helps,
Rgds,
Richard.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I'd be careful about buying too big, since you have a significant back issue, the weight of the blank will be a problem. I have a 16" lathe and trying to get a 14" log, 30" long on that was extremely challenging. I am older than you. Even a hardwood blank 16 x 6 inches is pretty heavy.
Be careful live long.

[John K Jordan]

I'd like to ask the forum for help researching and deciding on a full-sized lathe.
...within my budget of $4500. ...

A new lathe would be exciting! But have you considered a good used lathe? For example, the Powermatic 3520b is a reliable workhorse widely used in shops, clubs, and schools. For your budget you could get the lathe and a lot of extras.

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

I would opt for the 3520C. I turned on an A for about 10 years before getting a Robust. I do have a Vicmark 240 which has a pivoting headstock. I just don't like turning bowls on long bed lathes.

Rush, I would have opted for the longer bed lathe. Main reason is to turn table legs. It was a bit of a squeeze to fit a 30 inch leg onto my 3520A, but since I am a furniture maker as well. that is essential.

robo hippy

[David Walser]

Allen -- Given your budget, I think I would go with the Harvey T60. With shipping, it costs about as much as the PM 3520C (when both lathes are on sale). However, since you need the swing away, the PM will cost you an additional $270. I have the PM 3520C and I really like it. However, I don't believe it's a better lathe than the Harvey T40.

[Allen Mattsen]

A new lathe would be exciting! But have you considered a good used lathe? For example, the Powermatic 3520b is a reliable workhorse widely used in shops, clubs, and schools. For your budget you could get the lathe and a lot of extras.

JKJ

I have considered the used market which I'm continually exploring, however, there has been nothing in my area I'd touch with a 10-foot pole up to this point. There is nothing or a Shopsmith from 20 yrs ago - and this is months of monitoring the local markets. That said, I'm still networking with new people and joined one of the local woodturning clubs (so far) so maybe more will be revealed. I'm making arrangements to run through a member's 3520C and get a feel for it. I've seen a 'B' already in person. Maybe if I stall long enough I can just get an AB 😅.

As tempting as that is, I'm still acquiring tooling and part of wanting to jump into a new machine so soon is I don't want to waste funds on tooling for my midi just to duplicate costs later. Plus, I have funds now. Who knows which car will break down or what remodeling home project will come up and sap my lathe money later 😉

Side note: I got to scrub my lathe beds (which were waxed) twice yesterday after leaving some green walnut out for a break or two. There is something attractive about stainless steel - but I probably just need to pay more attention and not rely so much on the same thing that has been working so well for my other cast iron surfaces - that don't ever see wet wood!

[Jeffrey J Smith]

That said, I'm still networking with new people and joined one of the local woodturning clubs (so far) so maybe more will be revealed. I'm making arrangements to run through a member's 3520C and get a feel for it. I've seen a 'B' already in person. Maybe if I stall long enough I can just get an AB .

That's the smartest thing I've read so far. Get some time on the equipment you're interested in. As has been often said, opinions are like (insert favorite body part/orifice). Soliciting them only gets one truly valuable thing - a list of what's available that often includes frequently overlooked options. Still, in depth research often turns up something omitted.

In the end, get what works for you...ergonomically and financially and fits your shop and the work you hope to do. The only way to know for certain is to lay hands on one.

[John K Jordan]

I have considered the used market which I'm continually exploring, however, there has been nothing in my area I'd touch with a 10-foot pole up to this point. ...

That's a problem. I was fortunate to be contacted by someone who thought I might be interested in his 3520b in almost perfect condition and drove 600 miles one way to bring it home! Included a bed extension, wood, and extras.

Involvement in a club is an outstanding way to proceed. I've had people come to my shop to try out tools and things before they purchased.

[tom lucas]

That's a problem. I was fortunate to be contacted by someone who thought I might be interested in his 3520b in almost perfect condition and drove 600 miles one way to bring it home! Included a bed extension, wood, and extras.

Involvement in a club is an outstanding way to proceed. I've had people come to my shop to try out tools and things before they purchased.

Yeah, same experience here. Good lathes are few and far between. You have to cast a wide net and be willing to drive a ways. When it's a good deal, I've done it. But for a few hundred dollars you are better off just having it delivered to your door with warranty and shiny and new. I gave up and bought new. Or course 3 weeks later there was a killer deal on a powermatic 4224 100 miles away. Oh well, I'm happy with what i have.

[Harold Walsh]

Allen, I've been dreaming/shopping for lathes. The Record Envoy has peaked my interest because of Records reputation for quality products. Highland Woodworking in Atlanta carries the brand and will ship. What I like about the Record Envoy is a sliding headstock and it also rotates 360 degrees. To me that's a plus for turners with back issues and for those who want to turn larger bowls. Go to Highlandwoodworking.com and check it out and also Youtube. Good luck in your quest.

[Allen Mattsen]

Update: I went to a club member's house today for some wood and surprise! They had an American Beauty. Wow. Fine piece of machinery. If only I had twice the budget. I wonder if they finance...

Going Saturday to check out a PM3520C at another member's place.

Laguna has a 2yr warranty (not 1). The Harvey T60 looks excellent! I was told about the Axminster AT508WL which seems to do everything. Not sure about how I'd acquire one. Laguna lathes are June shipping dates currently. The nearest Woodcraft doesn't have a Rikon 70-3040 available to see but say they will (after the sale ends). Wish I knew about the Harvey's servo motor and what that means.

The resale value and my perceived ease of resale has me still leaning Powermatic. Wish it wasn't mustard yellow. I hate mustard! Haha 😂

[tom lucas]

There's at least one review of the T60 on AAW. Reviewer was enamored with it and the power it put out. Servos are widely used in robotics and see thousands of hours of back and forth. That coupled with the proliferation of robotics would say it's a safe bet the servo will meet a turner's demands.

But, yeah you would have more buyers interested in a PM.... but then why ever sell it? My tools are going with me to my grave :)

[tom lucas]

Where are you located? There is a PM 4224 for sale in N.J. Looks like a pretty nice unit from a fellow that passed away.

[Allen Mattsen]

Where are you located? There is a PM 4224 for sale in N.J. Looks like a pretty nice unit from a fellow that passed away.
Vancouver, WA just a few mins from Portland, OR.

[Rush Paul]

Rush, I would have opted for the longer bed lathe. Main reason is to turn table legs. It was a bit of a squeeze to fit a 30 inch leg onto my 3520A, but since I am a furniture maker as well. that is essential.

Thanks for the thought, Reed. Yes, I agree that if I were turning table legs, the longer bed of the 3520 would be the right choice. Here's a great example of getting the lathe that matches the kind work you're interested in doing. In our case, none of us had any expectation of turning furniture legs. The interests lay in boxes, bowls and other small projects. Our interests meant that we didn't expect to need length, but we didn't want to be limited on swing capacity or overall stability that a full size lathe provides. Since the PM 2020B has an optional bed extension, we figured if someone came into our group wanting to turn longer stock, we could add the bed extension and not lose out. And if we never added it, the smaller bed length would better fit into the limited space we have available in our shop.

[Allen Mattsen]

The Record Power Coronet Regent is an interesting machine. Rotating/pivoting & sliding headstock, outrigger capability for outboard turning, and 2HP/220v. The only drawback of concern may be that it's a bit 'lightweight' across the board in terms of build and actual weight (less than 400 lbs overall). Around $2,400, though I haven't found one in stock for certain, yet. I could see making use of the pivoting headstock a lot of access and saving the old man back that I have ;). Default swing is 18" but it's easy to get more via slide, pivot, or roatate to outboard of I understand correctly. Interesting feature set but I've zero experience first or second hand about Record Power machines or the company.

[Allen Mattsen]

Someone gave me a video demo of the Record Power Coronet Regent lathe and it's definitely a contender for me due to its ergonomic features. The bed extension and outrigger are affordable. 18" swing (39" w/ outrigger). Slowest speed is 200rpm. 2hp motor and a 3 step pulley system. The included under bed shelf can be loaded up with tools or bags of cement/sand to add weight, if needed. The 320~375lb weight is one of my main concerns. How much of one I don't know? A less than $3000 price tag with outrigger and bed extension is nice. Some concern about ability to use a vacuum chuck with it.

That brings me back to the Laguna 2436. Outboard turning, sliding headstock, side mount or end of lathe lowered extension all are features and two of those include the tailstock being able to be used. Laguna sells a vacuum chuck for their lathes, a plus. 610lbs. 3hp motor. 50rpm lowest speed. Only 2 step pulleys. Spindle lock will require a workaround. I do really like the look and feel plus my experience w/ Laguna lathes. $4000 price tag is fine.

The Harvey T60s has sliding headstock but no outboard turning and the motor still is a bit of an unknown. Swing away tailstock a nice feature. 24" swing, 2hp (servo) motor, 60rpm lowest speed, 726lbs. Still need to find out the truth about cost. Only 2 step pulleys. Looks great and very solidly built. Listed at $5300 in some places and $3500 in others.

Everyone knows the 5yr warranty, weight (700+lbs), and gereral info on the Powermatics. $4000 price tag

Mass/weight vs power vs ergonomics....

Also, turning outboard on some lathes is done tailstock-free. While others find a way to incorporate being able to use the tailstock at the end and/or outboard, or even on the side near the headstock with a lower bed extension for additional capacity. Why is this important or not for some lathes vs others?

[Randy Heinemann]

I really liked the 2020B also until I found out that the minimum height from spindle to floor is 44", okay for someone who is in the 5'9" - 6' range but I'm not that height and my current lathe is set at 42" (could possibly 1" more at 43"). Otherwise that is a great lathe. Seems like the 3520C is a great choice and not that much more.

[Allen Mattsen]

I really liked the 2020B also until I found out that the minimum height from spindle to floor is 44", okay for someone who is in the 5'9" - 6' range but I'm not that height and my current lathe is set at 42" (could possibly 1" more at 43"). Otherwise that is a great lathe. Seems like the 3520C is a great choice and not that much more.

I need 45"+ floor to spindle height. Ideally the riser blocks and feet would extend the 3520C up toward 46 or more. I'm nearly 6'3. My Laguna 1216, sitting on a desk is at about 44.5 and it's spindle is close to elbow height, as suggested, but I think comfortable for me would be higher by a significant margin. Alternatively, a lathe that has a wheel kit that provides mobility and added height such a as the Laguna could get me there *and* be mobile, too. So many details to consider.

[Randy Heinemann]

That is true, but the 2020B doesn't have the same legs as the 3520C; no risers, only adjustable feet to add height to the starting point of 44". It shouldn't be a problem for you since I believe it is adjustable up to at least 46" with the feet. It just doesn't work for me.

[Allen Mattsen]

Question: how important is weight in a full-sized lathe? I'm having trouble navigating the differences in weights as some are 300-ish lbs and some are closer to 700 lbs. Feedback needed on this please.

I understand stability and vibration to some extent and I won't be doing gigantic logs necessarily, but I will be hollowing, probably coring, and mounting some logs and larger pieces as well a doing resin work. Can I get away with a lathe on the lower end of weight or is it simply: the heavier the better?

[John K Jordan]

Question: how important is weight in a full-sized lathe? I'm having trouble navigating the differences in weights as some are 300-ish lbs and some are closer to 700 lbs. Feedback needed on this please.

I understand stability and vibration to some extent and I won't be doing gigantic logs necessarily, but I will be hollowing, probably coring, and mounting some logs and larger pieces as well a doing resin work. Can I get away with a lathe on the lower end of weight or is it simply: the heavier the better?

As with most things related to woodturning, what is best depends on what you turn. Any out-of-balance condition such as when roughing a blank or when turning something with non-homogeneous density (more dense on one side) can cause vibration which a heavier lathe will better absorb. Some people who like to turn larger and/or unbalanced things often add weight to the lathe. A guy I know would use long pipe clamps to fasten his lathe to the garage wall. Some people have fastened the lathes to the floor. Adding weight can let you "get away" with turning unbalanced things on a smaller lathe but keep in mind that a smaller lathe likely has less sturdy components (spindle, bearings, etc) which can be affected by wear or even break from the increased stress. For the uses you mention I think you would be far happier with a heavier lathe.

BTW, the two lathes I keep in the shop are the PM3520b and Jet1642. One is just over 400 lbs and the other is over 700 lbs with the bed extension. Both are capable but there's a big difference between the two when turning something unbalanced, even off-axis pieces.

[Mick Fagan]

Someone gave me a video demo of the Record Power Coronet Regent lathe and it's definitely a contender for me due to its ergonomic features. The bed extension and outrigger are affordable. 18" swing (39" w/ outrigger). Slowest speed is 200rpm. 2hp motor and a 3 step pulley system. The included under bed shelf can be loaded up with tools or bags of cement/sand to add weight, if needed. The 320~375lb weight is one of my main concerns. How much of one I don't know? A less than $3000 price tag with outrigger and bed extension is nice. Some concern about ability to use a vacuum chuck with it.

That brings me back to the Laguna 2436. Outboard turning, sliding headstock, side mount or end of lathe lowered extension all are features and two of those include the tailstock being able to be used. Laguna sells a vacuum chuck for their lathes, a plus. 610lbs. 3hp motor. 50rpm lowest speed. Only 2 step pulleys. Spindle lock will require a workaround. I do really like the look and feel plus my experience w/ Laguna lathes. $4000 price tag is fine.

The Harvey T60s has sliding headstock but no outboard turning and the motor still is a bit of an unknown. Swing away tailstock a nice feature. 24" swing, 2hp (servo) motor, 60rpm lowest speed, 726lbs. Still need to find out the truth about cost. Only 2 step pulleys. Looks great and very solidly built. Listed at $5300 in some places and $3500 in others.

Everyone knows the 5yr warranty, weight (700+lbs), and gereral info on the Powermatics. $4000 price tag

Mass/weight vs power vs ergonomics....

Also, turning outboard on some lathes is done tailstock-free. While others find a way to incorporate being able to use the tailstock at the end and/or outboard, or even on the side near the headstock with a lower bed extension for additional capacity. Why is this important or not for some lathes vs others?

I have the Laguna 2436 lathe with all the fruit, one of my better decisions.

I have also watched a demonstration and asked a zillion questions on the Record Power Coronet lathe; I have also turned on a Coronet lathe. The Coronet lathe is a very well made unit, but some features make me wonder. The minimum speed is almost too fast if you have a heavy imbalanced piece of material at 200rpm, but one usually can work around that by switching on and off until you make initial balancing cuts. Not great but doable. I assume the minimum spindle speed is there because the maximum spindle speed is 3500rpm (I think), so something has to give.

My previous lathe was the Nova with a minimum speed of 178rpm, which was problematic quite a few times over the years I had it. That minimum speed and the fact it was a belt speed change lathe made me look elsewhere.

Today I turned a wet trunk log on my Laguna 2436 that was around 700mm long by 250mm diameter. (28" x 10") it was severely imbalanced and my starting speed was somewhere around 70rpm on the low speed setting; seamlessly stepping up to 800rpm (ish) to finish what I needed to do to this bit of timber.

The work around for the spindle lock for the Laguna 2436 is easy as anything, a couple of years ago I made a temporary solution; it is still temporary. :D

I turn big-ish bowls at the end of the lathe, using the bed extension in the drop position. The tail stock riser as well as the tool rest riser, and away one goes. The wheel kit is there and is noticeable, sort of, but one just works around it and now I don't even notice it.

I have the two lights and they are brilliant, I'm in the age bracket my where my eyesight is diminishing somewhat and I need bright lights. I have super bright LED lighting above the lathe, but the two 60W Tungsten lights are terrific, and superb at getting directed light into the recesses of bowls.

Mick.

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[Allen Mattsen]

I appreciate all the feedback. Measuring my shop space I think the Harvey may actually be too big! Specs say 90". Surely that can't be right? I'm not sure how to reconcile the footprint vs the length specs given (below, rounded):

length/width/height: 90x25x57"
footprint: 56x25"

I have to say that unless I firmly decide I "need" a rotating headstock (RP): I like the steel bed ways, 3hp, and 24" swing of the Laguna 2436. The scalability of features, including a wheel kit, swing-away tailstock, and easily identifiable vacuum chuck are all nice things. Waiting until the end of May, isn't, of course ideal (backordered). I've read but haven't seen that they sell riser pads to increase the height?


The Harvey stands at 44" to spindle, which is a bout 3" shorter than I want but I'm sure something could be figured out. The Harvey looks very nice and there isn't much not to like other than perhaps a more expensive repair should the motor have issues. The motor is an unknown in many ways, to me. Priced less than the Laguna 2436 and the tailstock pendant is standard. I can't see on in person, however.


Unfortunately, the Record Powers are sold out everywhere. Wait TBD if I go that route. It all seems a bit more light-duty than a 'last lathe' type purchase, but my mind could change still.


I may have already pulled the trigger on ordering a new machine but my Durango broke down a few days ago and it's a motor problem (5.7L Hemi V8) and likely a bent lifter or something perhaps worse. So, I didn't want to drop 4K on a lathe until I get a firm estimate on my truck. Sadly, priorities sometimes get in the way, lol. That said I've still budgeted for the lathe. I hope to decide in the next few days.


Perhaps familiarity with the Laguna 1216 gives me a comfort level. I'm going down the the local Woodcrafters to put my hands on the 1836 (in stock, actually) and see how that machine looks and feels in person. I like the added HP, swing, and controls of the 2436 vs the 1836 but they're similar enough to get a good feel for.


Ultimately, the only choices with a "good" warranty are the PM3520c and Rikon 70-3040 (5yrs each). Haven't totally ruled out the old standby, PM. Rikon no sliding headstock or tailstock pendant (out).

[Allen Mattsen]

Update: I checked out a Laguna 1836 (I'm considering the 2436) and PM3520C side by side today at Woodcrafters. My observations:

Powermatic vs Laguna

The Tool rest locking mechanism PM

Tool rest design PM

Banjo *tied*

Tailstock PM

Removable control box with speed readout PM

​Spindle lock PM

Bed ways Laguna (stainless and wider)

Weight/ease of moving headstock Laguna

Handwheel PM


Laguna: Spindle Height w/ wheel kit (optional) 46"; spindle cone beyond housing: 4"

PM: Spindle Height w/ riser blocks (standard) 46", spindle cone beyond housing: 3"

Availablity: end of May for Laguna 2436 and the PM is in stock. The 1836 is in stock, fwiw.

Price: $4000~4500 PM, $3800 Laguna

The PM tool rest locks so easily and won't budge - love it! I know there is a workaround for the Laguna by adding a 2nd bolt in the available 2nd hole but still.

[Mick Fagan]

I've just checked out the wheel system on my Laguna 2436 and the system raises the lathe 15mm, but I have the levelling pads set around 35mm below the lathe legs. This translates to a spindle height of 1143mm from the ground, converted it is 45". I don't have an inch ruler in my workshop, sorry.

If you intend to put a riser kit on the lathe, then I think the wheels will need to be positioned lower, something you may wish to find out if that is possible, or what is their work around.

As for comparing the Laguna 1836 lathe, please remember it is really tiny compared to the 2436 lathe. The banjo on the 2436 is massive by comparison to the 1836 one.

The clamping method for the tool rest is unique, in that it is a clamping of quite a fair amount of the tool rest post, not a single clamp pressure point. I've never seen a Powermatic lathe, but the only tool rest clamping system that are comparable to my 2436 are the 30mm diameter Vicmarc tool posts which are rock solid, and so is the Laguna 2436. It is slightly fiddly, but it clamps rock solid. You don't need to use the second bolt hole, that is there so you can have the bolt handle inside or outside. The 2436 clamping system is heavier than the 1836 from memory, but I doubt it is as beefy as the 2436.

Speaking of tool posts, the 2436 requires tool post shafts of exactly 25.4mm (1") 25mm (63/64") cannot be clamped.

All of the accessories for the 2436 are identical to the 1836 lathe, which is a little bit iffy with one of their accessories. The iffy accessory is the swing away unit, it is in my opinion, too light for the substantially heavier and bigger 2436 tailstock. It has been impossible for me to get it to work easily and/or properly, so I took it off.

The bed extension kit is pretty much a must have, I mostly leave mine permanently attached in the lowered position. With the tailstock riser permanently on the bed extension, I just slide the riser to the end of the bed and slide the tailstock onto that. It is slightly fiddly, but only takes a minute or so.

Mick.

[Allen Mattsen]

Great info, thanks Mick.

In fairness, the PM hadn't been used at all and the 1836 was worn significantly as a demo / floor model.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I have the Laguna 2436 and have never had a problem with the tool rest coming loose. It has worked seamlessly for me sinceI bought it. I've had several opportunities to turn on a PM3520B and really liked it but for me it came down to price and the 24" clearance. BTW, the Laguna will go on sale a couple times a year for 10% off (I think I bought mine in April 2019 and they had a sale at that time so they may go on sale in the next couple weeks).

Good luck. Can't go wrong with either IMO.
Tom

[Rush Paul]

Rush, I would have opted for the longer bed lathe. Main reason is to turn table legs. It was a bit of a squeeze to fit a 30 inch leg onto my 3520A, but since I am a furniture maker as well. that is essential.

FWIW, we re-thought our decision to go with the short bed 2020B. We changed our order to the 3520C per Reed's suggestion. After reviewing our available space, we decided the standard length lathe could fit. We further decided that we'd never regret going this direction, but we might regret the short bed.

[Rush Paul]

For what it may be worth, Powermatic seriously upgraded the locking mechanism for the tool rest post with the "C" upgrade to the 3520. The 3520C now uses a cam locking mechanism (item 14 in the parts diagram below) instead of a single pressure point screw. This is similar to the mechanism in the 1950s era Craftsman drill presses for tightening the head and table to the column if you're familiar with that design. Robust has long used this design, as have perhaps some others. This makes for a rock solid locking mechanism that will not slip under pressure.

456220


Image from Robust manual:

456221

[Allen Mattsen]

I'm down to the PM3520C or the Laguna 2436. The max spindle height from floor is a key number for me.

PM3520C specs I read are "Spindle height from floor: 40-5/8" (without 4" riser blocks)". 44-5/8" is 2" or so lower than I'd prefer. Anyone know the maximum or how to get around this - a solution to make it closer to 46+"?

[Rush Paul]

If it were me, I'd add riser blocks using a 4x4 across the width of the legs and 2x6s bolted to each side of the 4x4 to create a cradle locking the legs within the pocket created by the 2x6 risers.

[Allen Mattsen]

Reed also brought up 4x4s on another forum and it seems plausible. Wouldn't having some steel plates or something be stronger? I don't know. I did a similar thing to the above suggestion with my midi lathe, just sections of 2x4 between each leg of a desk (lathe stand) for stability. Does a 4x4 or similar material really hold a 700lb machine?

[Rush Paul]

We're just talking about compression strength in this application. I should think it would be no problem as long as the footpads coming out of the riser blocks provide a broad surface. Keep in mind, to get the height you want, you may need to plane the lumber down to a different thickness than "as it comes".

[Allen Mattsen]

We're just talking about compression strength in this application. I should think it would be no problem as long as the footpads coming out of the riser blocks provide a broad surface. Keep in mind, to get the height you want, you may need to plane the lumber down to a different thickness than "as it comes".

Makes sense. I could see drilling with a Forstner bit to provide ideal space for the adjustable feet - or- remove the feet altogether and bolts into the wood instead. Any thoughts?

[Rush Paul]

If I were doing this, I'd stay with the PM adjustable feet and make sure the "cradle" gave me access to adjust the feet, at least from one side. The parts list shows these as built using 1/2" bolts, so pretty robust. Creating a recess using a Forstner bit can't hurt.

[Allen Mattsen]

UPDATE:

And the winner is...
456280
456279

I've ordered the Laguna 2436 and 3" riser block kit and the ETA is reasonable. I spoke with a number of people who own the machine, have had good experience with my Laguna 1216, and like the price, height, and 24" swing as well as the 3hp motor. Looks great too. Can't wait for it to arrive!

If anyone with one and knows the 220v plug & outlets required please let me know. Have to do the electrical next.

Thanks for all the feedback to help with my decision. Definitely the most expensive power tool I've ever purchased. *butterflies*

[Allen Mattsen]

A few notes on my process in case it helps others in a similar boat:

~I really liked the Grizzly G0800 but they don't make it anymore.

~If I had a bigger budget I'd consider the big 3 of Robust, Vicmarc, and Oneway - probably in that order.

~I closely looked at the Harvey T60s and never did get any responses from their customer service to my questions. The price also keeps going up and I wasn't sure about the servo motor or replacement parts. In my top 3, though.

~The PM3520C was a close second choice. I felt like the Banjo and tailstock were a bit clunky and heavy (for me) but the spindle lock and control box - pretty much everything else I really liked. The price was about $700 more, and the accessories also more expensive than the Laguna.

~I really like the Vicmarc VL300 and similar models. Slick machines. Maybe a small learning curve with the metric tool posts, etc, same for the Oneway but some can be custom ordered with Imperial tooling to a point.

~I was very tempted by the Record Power Coronet Regent. Rotating headstock! But, low speed of 250rpms and the relative light weight build (375lbs IIRC) were turn-offs. Also no definitive word on when available again in the US.

~I like the look and feel of the Lagunas, feel they may not be as reliable as the PM, but talked to enough people who own them to feel comfortable.

~Being able to have it shipped to a local store supports a local business and saved me about $450!

~Despite the backorder into nearly June for the 2436 from most places I looked, my local Woodcrafters said about 10 days. We'll see.

~A huge factor was the height I can get with the 3" riser blocks. I have back issues and this was very important.

~Available accessories can come later such as the bed extension and swing-away tailstock.

[Rush Paul]

Congratulations, Tom! And thank you for your extensive summary of your thought process. Should be very helpful to many others.

[Allen Mattsen]

Congratulations, Tom! And thank you for your extensive summary of your thought process. Should be very helpful to many others.

Allen, but thank you and glad to hear it

[ChrisA Edwards]

UPDATE:

If anyone with one and knows the 220v plug & outlets required please let me know. Have to do the electrical next.



My 2436 came with a molded on plug
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/ElectricPlug.jpg

[Allen Mattsen]

Thank you. It appears you can't use the twist lock type of outlets with that type of plug or can you?

[ChrisA Edwards]

No, I have the same plugs on several 240V tools and have never had an issue with the plug coming out during use.

[tom lucas]

Thank you. It appears you can't use the twist lock type of outlets with that type of plug or can you?

No. If you want twist locks you'll have to replace that connector. I put twist locks on all my 220V tools. Mainly because I only have two outlets. Each outlet is equipped with a 10' extension cord that I made with twist locks on each end. These reach any tool that needs power and the lock makes sure they stay fully connected. My circuits are rated for 30 amps because I have some 20A tools where 15A plug/receptacles would not work. Since they all share the same power cord, had to go with the heaviest. My next shop will have enough appropriately sized outlets to dedicate to each machine.

[Allen Mattsen]

No. If you want twist locks you'll have to replace that connector. I put twist locks on all my 220V tools. Mainly because I only have two outlets. Each outlet is equipped with a 10' extension cord that I made with twist locks on each end. These reach any tool that needs power and the lock makes sure they stay fully connected. My circuits are rated for 30 amps because I have some 20A tools where 15A plug/receptacles would not work. Since they all share the same power cord, had to go with the heaviest. My next shop will have enough appropriately sized outlets to dedicate to each machine.

Why did you go with 30A circuits when it appears 20A would be sufficient? I ask because I'm making that decision myself and although I don't plan on any tools requiring a 30A circuit, a larger bandsaw will require 20A. I've gone back and forth on this. My electrician friend will help me do either one, but by all accounts 20A would be sufficient for me, as I won't be running anything other than a 110v dust collector and one of the larger tools at the same time, and no 220v tools simultaneously.