If you could buy just one...

[Michael J Evans]

If you could just buy one premium plane (new lie nielson, veritas, woody) what would it be and why?

Just curious as I often scan various websites, oogle the nice tools, but then get scared away at the price tags and think "If I was to spend 300-500 on a plane, what would really give me the best return on investment" as far as actually needing a precision ground body, adjuster, blade, whatever. I'm my mind it's either the jointer or smoother. But what would it be for you? Let's include the other specialty / joinery planes as well.

[Scott Winners]

For standard bench planes I am doing OK buying rusty Baileys and refurbing knowing they will last the rest of my life and my grandkids will be able to use them. If I need a new iron, I can get one.

I avoid vintage specialty planes, like router planes and shoulder planes for example, as parts are scarce and shipping to me is expensive. I have some product from both Lee Valley/ Veritas and L-N. If money was no object I would buy L-N specialty planes and have my personal smith make 01 or PMV11 blades for them.

Since money is an object, for specialty planes I look at both L-N and Veritas. I like the Veritas plow plane better and just in the last few days tried to snatch one I found on CL/ Vermont/ tools but it had already sold. If I ever get to actually build a timber framed retirement cottage I would prefer the L-N tongue and groove plane since my local mill is a bit sloppy when doing T&G on their sheathing boards.

I studiously avoid woodies locally as my humidity swings are some of the most extreme in the USA. Not knocking woodies, they are just a poor choice locally.

[Jerome Andrieux]

If you could just buy one premium plane (new lie nielson, veritas, woody) what would it be and why?
Just curious as I often scan various websites, oogle the nice tools, but then get scared away at the price tags and think "If I was to spend 300-500 on a plane, what would really give me the best return on investment" as far as actually needing a precision ground body, adjuster, blade, whatever. I'm my mind it's either the jointer or smoother. But what would it be for you? Let's include the other specialty / joinery planes as well.

Hey Michael.

I would recommend investing in a versatile plane that you will spend time using, say a #5 1/2. When well made and set to fine cut, it's a good super smoother that can smooth, shoot, dress panels, true faces and joint edges ... Such versatility means it would not leave your bench and you would be happy reaching for it all the time.
A #5 is versatile too, but usually for coarser tasks that don't need precision. A #4 is less versatile but may be used more often / longer.
If you have other planes though, you may find than a wooden jack, #7 and a heavy #4 1/2 is a better set than a does-it-all and regret your purchase.

Everything amazon and big buck stores sell i bad but there is only a small and decreasing difference in the user experience and the actual results of:

- a $5 restored jack wooden plane
- a $50 old 5 1/2 stanley
- a new $250 chinese made 5 1/2 (WR, QS, ..)
- a new $500 premium 5 1/2 (LN, LV, ...)

Even LN and LV are not luxury tools, they are expensive because they are well made, in small quantities, in the US / Canada. They are not meant to be treasured but put to work. They don't have much advantages over the chinese made ones, if any, except that they are made "locally" (I live in France, so ...).

[Oskar Sedell]

the only new, fine plane I bought was the veritas small plough plane. All others I have made or restored and will keep making the planes I need. At the time I needed a plane to plough grooves and didn´t want to wait for a long plane build to be completed. I havent regret this since, and I´m happy I spent the money on a new, well aligned plane instead of the risky buy of a old combination or plough plane.

If I were to buy another plane, it would be the same - a plane I can´t make myself within reasonable time for completing the task.

[Jim Koepke]

All but a few of my planes are older planes that have been rehabilitated for use.

The few new planes purchased are as follows; an LN #62, an LN #1, an LN #60 and a Veritas LH Shooting plane.

The #1 was purchased because it was less expensive than a Stanley/Bailey #1.

The #62 was purchased because it was better made and less expensive than a Stanley #62. This was before anyone made a dedicated shooting plane. My main reason for purchasing this plane was for use as a shooting plane.

The #60 was purchased out of frustration from trying to find a Stanley #60 from a certain era. A few years after buying the LN a Stanley SW #60-1/2 was found at a good price and brought home. The LN is a bit heavy for my liking.

The Veritas LH shooting plane was purchased after using a LN #51 shooting plane at a Tool Event in Portland. The Veritas Shooting Plane has a slightly lower angle of engagement.

Being slightly competent at working with mechanical things has saved me some money by not buying premium ready to go out of the box equipment. Others might look at how much it has cost me in time and money over the years accumulating tools. My heirs will likely be able to enjoy using them or selling them for more than my cost.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

I've bought a bunch of LV and Veritas planes. They have all grown to be fantastic and invaluable in my arsenal. In order of decreasing fantasticness:

LN #4 Bronze
LV BU Jointer
(these 2 are in a dif league for me. so so good and reliable.)

LN 102
LV BU Jack
LV Router plane
LV Large shoulder plane
LV Small BU Smoother
LV Apron plane
LV small router plane

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Just one? A LN 5 1/2 or 62, for the versatility each offers.

[steven c newman]

Already have..
454523
As my Router plane needed a 1/4" cutter..
454524
other than that? We good...

[Derek Cohen]

If you could just buy one premium plane (new lie nielson, veritas, woody) what would it be and why?

Just curious as I often scan various websites, oogle the nice tools, but then get scared away at the price tags and think "If I was to spend 300-500 on a plane, what would really give me the best return on investment" as far as actually needing a precision ground body, adjuster, blade, whatever. I'm my mind it's either the jointer or smoother. But what would it be for you? Let's include the other specialty / joinery planes as well.

Hi Michael

Given that it is harder to restore and tune up a long metal plane (with its long sole), such as a #7, if I was looking to invest in one great plane, the choice would be a jointer rather than a smoother. You need a smoother, nonetheless.

The next choice is to decide on the system you prefer: tapping a wedge, Stanley/Bailey system (as on LN), Veritas Custom, or Bevel Up. All work well, may be set for fine or deep cuts, and the decision can come down to personal preference.

I have the Veritas Custom #7 with a 40 degree frog. It can be used for shooting (using the bench top as a reference surface), or with a close set chipbreaker on edges of interlocked wood. It feels as if it has a lower centre of gravity than than the Stanley I had, or the LN I have used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Phil Gaudio]

If you could just buy one premium plane (new lie nielson, veritas, woody) what would it be and why?

Just curious as I often scan various websites, oogle the nice tools, but then get scared away at the price tags and think "If I was to spend 300-500 on a plane, what would really give me the best return on investment" as far as actually needing a precision ground body, adjuster, blade, whatever. I'm my mind it's either the jointer or smoother. But what would it be for you? Let's include the other specialty / joinery planes as well.

Many years ago I had the opportunity to ask Garrett Hack that very question, and his answer was the LN No. 4. I think he was right.

[Michael J Evans]

the only new, fine plane I bought was the veritas small plough plane. All others I have made or restored and will keep making the planes I need. At the time I needed a plane to plough grooves and didn´t want to wait for a long plane build to be completed. I havent regret this since, and I´m happy I spent the money on a new, well aligned plane instead of the risky buy of a old combination or plough plane.

If I were to buy another plane, it would be the same - a plane I can´t make myself within reasonable time for completing the task.


Hey Michael.

I would recommend investing in a versatile plane that you will spend time using, say a #5 1/2. When well made and set to fine cut, it's a good super smoother that can smooth, shoot, dress panels, true faces and joint edges ... Such versatility means it would not leave your bench and you would be happy reaching for it all the time.
A #5 is versatile too, but usually for coarser tasks that don't need precision. A #4 is less versatile but may be used more often / longer.
If you have other planes though, you may find than a wooden jack, #7 and a heavy #4 1/2 is a better set than a does-it-all and regret your purchase.

Everything amazon and big buck stores sell i bad but there is only a small and decreasing difference in the user experience and the actual results of:

- a $5 restored jack wooden plane
- a $50 old 5 1/2 stanley
- a new $250 chinese made 5 1/2 (WR, QS, ..)
- a new $500 premium 5 1/2 (LN, LV, ...)

Even LN and LV are not luxury tools, they are expensive because they are well made, in small quantities, in the US / Canada. They are not meant to be treasured but put to work. They don't have much advantages over the chinese made ones, if any, except that they are made "locally" (I live in France, so ...).

I agree in regards to the specialty type planes. In the case of a router plane, when I was looking a 71 was going for 120-150 or so, and you can get a new Veritas for about 190 or so. I kind of inferred in my first post I didn't have a new planes, but that is a lie. I have one, a Veritas router my wife bought for my birthday last year based upon a Christmas wish list I had sent her the year before. It was really eye opening to get a plane that was ready to roll, all my other planes are vintage and have taken considerable time to get useable. In fact I have a whole set of 45 irons, and have only sharpened the 1/4" as the dread of lapping & sharpening each one has kept me from doing the rest.

[Michael J Evans]

Hi Michael

Given that it is harder to restore and tune up a long metal plane (with its long sole), such as a #7, if I was looking to invest in one great plane, the choice would be a jointer rather than a smoother. You need a smoother, nonetheless.

The next choice is to decide on the system you prefer: tapping a wedge, Stanley/Bailey system (as on LN), Veritas Custom, or Bevel Up. All work well, may be set for fine or deep cuts, and the decision can come down to personal preference.

I have the Veritas Custom #7 with a 40 degree frog. It can be used for shooting (using the bench top as a reference surface), or with a close set chipbreaker on edges of interlocked wood. It feels as if it has a lower centre of gravity than than the Stanley I had, or the LN I have used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,
I have avoided 7& 8's just for the pure hatred I have of lapping plane soles. My first jointer was a Transitional and my second a all wood Steve knight. With those I was able to plane them very close to flat and then lap on sandpaper the rest of the way. Still the wood soles have moved some and that has really frustrated me and got me thinking about a new jointer. I don't have the skill to truly take advantage of the precision of a veritas or Lie nielson, but I hate having the nagging thought in the back of my head, that my edge has a hollow because my jointer wasn't truly flat lengthwise.

[Michael J Evans]

Hope I didn't infer in my first post that I am really in the market for any planes (except maybe a wood fillister). I basically have a complete line up of various vintage planes. I do get frustrated at them sometimes for dumb stuff that's fixable like shavings getting stuck under chip breaker or spending 4 hours lapping a back. But I just got a bonus and after trying to plane heavy cross grain and every one of my planes jamming up, it got my thinking, maybe spending the big bucks is worth it. Which then got me thinking, if I was going to splurge, what would it be for, which lead to this thread. Like I said in my first post, the jointer or smoother, seem to me to need the most precision of the bench planes, but as others have pointed out. Some of the specialty planes make more sense from a sourcing & economics stand point.

[James Pallas]

For me it’s a LV BU jack. Before that it was the #6 dreaded Bailey. Having different irons is far more important to me. One plane can do many things with a proper iron. No claim made here that it will do everything just as well or as easy. The irons will give you much versatility.
Jim

[Phil Mueller]

With some of my vintage planes, I’ve replaced the iron/chipbreaker with modern versions. I was frustrated as well with fitting vintage chipbreakers to the point of just replacing them. None of my planes needed mouth adjustments for the new iron/chipbreakers, although it is a tight opening for some.

Congrats on the router plane gift. It is one of my favorite planes to use.

[Michael J Evans]

With some of my vintage planes, I’ve replaced the iron/chipbreaker with modern versions. I was frustrated as well with fitting vintage chipbreakers to the point of just replacing them. None of my planes needed mouth adjustments for the new iron/chipbreakers, although it is a tight opening for some.

Congrats on the router plane gift. It is one of my favorite planes to use.

Hi Phil
I may end up doing the same. Already have the planes, so not much to lose by trying a new blade / breaker combo.

[Thomas Wilson]

If you could just buy one premium plane (new lie nielson, veritas, woody) what would it be and why?
...
I think I would just die if I could only have just one. Actually all planes do pretty much the same thing, peeling off a thin shaving of wood from a board and ideally doing so without tearing out. So in theory you could get by with just one. But by changing parameters of the design, like length, width, cutting angle, a plane can be better at one kind of planing than another. I don’t think you are asking for a dissertation on how planes do different things. I think you mean which plane is worth spending extra money for. It would not be your only plane, but others might be used tools or lesser priced brands. For this, I say Lie-Nielsen No. 4 in bronze. It is a beautiful tool and it is a ready to go right out of the box. You can trust it to do that very last pass without pulling out a big chunk of wood and ruining the surface. You still have to be able to get the blade really really sharp and set the chip breaker close but the work of mating the chip breaker to the blade and the blade to the frog is done by Lie-Nielsen. Did I mention it is beautiful too? It is worth saying it twice.

If I misread your question and you really meant which is the best all around plane and you want to spend extra on the one you will use the most, then it is a No. 5. It is a great all around size. It is long enough to joint edges up to 20 inches or so. It can be fitted with a cambered blade and used as a scrub plane or with a finely sharpened straight or lightly cambered blade as a smoother. You can lay it on it side on your shooting board. Which brand? All the premiums are good. I have three No 5’s: bevel down and bevel up from Lie-Nielsen and bevel down from Veritas/Lee Valley. Of theses choices, I would pick Lie-Nielsen bevel down. I prefer the traditional Stanley adjuster. I don’t like adjustable mouth planes. It is too easy to nick the blade if the mouth is set too close. For smoothing, a bevel down plane with close set chipbreaker works better than bevel up.

I personally bought the L-N No 4 first about 20 years ago. I have added greatly to the collection since then. I expect you will not stop at one premium plane. I have said to Janicewhokeepsmehumble that my goal in life is to be able to go to a Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event by walking into my shop. She rolls her eyes.

[Jacob Mac]

I would go with a LN #8. I think the quality and results from it are harder to replicate. Not impossible, just it is nice not having to fuss with a long plane.

While there are a million ways to square a board, and it certainly isn't essential, I love my LV shooting plane. That is truly a great plane.

[lowell holmes]

I suggest you visit this site before buying a plane.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=trp&hsimp=yhs-001&type=Y21_F159_200679_021421&p=bedrock+planes

[Justin Allen]

All of them :) .

Slightly kidding, but I have very little time to work the wood. For me, the biggest return on investment is being able to actually get to use the tool in the time I have allotted for woodworking. I know some of the seasoned vets here can get a beater plane slinging 0.001" shavings in less than an hour, but I'm sure it took them quite a while to get that proficient at it.

If just one, though, I'd have to go jointer. But which one? It would probably be the LN #6. I do have the LV BU jointer and the LN 8, but those don't seem to come out much. Then again, the only "large" project I've worked on was my bench.

[Jon Snider]

LV or LN block plane.

[Rafael Herrera]

I do get frustrated at them sometimes for dumb stuff that's fixable like shavings getting stuck under chip breaker or spending 4 hours lapping a back.
Michael, fitting the cap iron to the iron can take only a few minutes, there are plenty of instructional videos on how to do that. I would try that first before I went ahead and spent $400 on a new plane, plus probably another few hundred dollars in sharpening gear because now you need to sharpen harder steels.

[john zulu]

If you don't appreciate the plane I would buy a second hand plane from Stanley or Record. Once you are able to appreciate the plane then move to Veritas or LN. Then the price does not seam so crazy.
Is it necessary to buy high end planes. No. But it can make your life easier.