Tenons with dado stack

[Jason White]

Looking for opinions.

Interested in hearing what you folks have to say about part of my method for cutting tenons using a dado stack on the tablesaw (see photo).

I like to use a block clamped to my rip fence as a stop instead of running my piece right up against the fence. I feel like there's a chance of messing up my cut or getting kickback if I hit a spot on the fence that isn't perfectly flat and the piece starts to rotate. I've read and heard a few conflicting opinions on the matter. Some say you don't need the block and that running against the fence is fine.

Thoughts?

Jason White

[Bill Carey]

I always use a block when making that kind of cut.

[johnny means]

I run right up against the fence. No chance of accidentally drifting beyond the cut line. Why do you think the piece is more likely to rotate if against the fence? If anything, it would serve as an additional constraint.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I use your block method also.

I set the fence and block to cut the deepest part, length, of the tenon and then with each subsequent pass I'm moving the piece away from the fence, removing the waste to form the tenon

This lets me set the tenon depth and then it is repeatable on other pieces and when I flip the piece to do the other side of the tenon.

[Patrick Kane]

I pull the fence back to before the blade on my saw. However, when i had a cabinet saw, i dont recall using your method too often. Is it the textbook method? Yes. However, I never had an issue referencing the rip fence through the cut. I found it helpful to wax the aluminum fence face to reduce drag through the cut.

[Alex Zeller]

I do the block method as well. I often make different length tenons at the same time. I set the fence and then just swap different thickness blocks. That way I can go back to the first size quickly.

[Warren Lake]

what Johnny said.

Block is nonsense. Your wood can drift on the mitre gauge, the fence is the stop. If anything wood on the back of the mitre gauge for blow out.

[Kevin Jenness]

Since you are relying on hand pressure to clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge it would be best to have the fence guide the cut all the way through. Your fence should be flat anyway; if not, make it so. A backup block to suppress tearout is important.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Jason, when I cut tenons on a saw I used a tenon jig and two saw blades with a spacer.

Now I cut them on the shaper with an inverted adjustable groover and spacer.

Both methods produce a consistent thickness tenon as they cut both cheeks simultaneously..............Regards, Rod.

[Ron Citerone]

I only use a block for through cuts when making multiple matching pieces so no piece is left between the fence and blade. For tenons I use the fence. Since it is not a through cut there is not a kick back issue.

[Bob Jones 5443]

+1 on what Ron said.

[Phil Gaudio]

You are using the correct approach. In a perfect world, when the fence is perfectly parallel to the line traveled by the miter gauge, it probably would not make a difference: ignoring any issues regarding friction between the fence face and end of work piece. In the real world, the fence may not be parallel: this could cause the work piece to slide either toward or away from the fence, creating a tenon shoulder that is not square. Its costs no more time/money/effort to use the block. Use the block.


Looking for opinions.

Interested in hearing what you folks have to say about part of my method for cutting tenons using a dado stack on the tablesaw (see photo).

I like to use a block clamped to my rip fence as a stop instead of running my piece right up against the fence. I feel like there's a chance of messing up my cut or getting kickback if I hit a spot on the fence that isn't perfectly flat and the piece starts to rotate. I've read and heard a few conflicting opinions on the matter. Some say you don't need the block and that running against the fence is fine.

Thoughts?

Jason White

[Lee Schierer]

what Johnny said.

Block is nonsense. Your wood can drift on the mitre gauge, the fence is the stop. If anything wood on the back of the mitre gauge for blow out.


Since you are relying on hand pressure to clamp the workpiece to the miter gauge it would be best to have the fence guide the cut all the way through. Your fence should be flat anyway; if not, make it so. A backup block to suppress tearout is important.

If you have trouble or concern with pieces sliding sideways against your miter gauge during crosscuts, apply some adheisve baked 220 grit sand paper to the face of the miter gauge. You will have no more worries about wood slipping even with minimal hand clamping.


I only use a block for through cuts when making multiple matching pieces so no piece is left between the fence and blade. For tenons I use the fence. Since it is not a through cut there is not a kick back issue.

Any time a piece of wood is constrained between the saw blade and the fence whether or not is is a through cut, there is a chance of kick back. It only takes once for the wood to hang up on the fence to get a really violent kickback. If I can't use the stop on my miter gauge, and miter gauge extension for a tenon cheek cut, I use a block to set the length and than the piece is free and clear once I start the forward motion to make the cut.

[johnny means]

If you have trouble or concern with pieces sliding sideways against your miter gauge during crosscuts, apply some adheisve baked 220 grit sand paper to the face of the miter gauge. You will have no more worries about wood slipping even with minimal hand clamping.



Any time a piece of wood is constrained between the saw blade and the fence whether or not is is a through cut, there is a chance of kick back. It only takes once for the wood to hang up on the fence to get a really violent kickback. If I can't use the stop on my miter gauge, and miter gauge extension for a tenon cheek cut, I use a block to set the length and than the piece is free and clear once I start the forward motion to make the cut.

If you cut from the end in, there never will be material between the cutters and the fence. Also, your more likely to run uncut material onto the back end of the cutters with a block. This would definitely result in a kickback.

[Michael W. Clark]

I run it against the fence if it can be cut in one pass, and I bury the dado in a sacrificial face. If multiple passes, best to start on end and make final pass against fence, otherwise have to make sure and push all the way through before repositioning.

[Bob Jones 5443]

For a tenon, you are not cutting through the work. There should be no reason you can't put a rubber-padded block over the part to be cut. I use the Rockler Bench Dog pads; they're grippy and great. They can help you keep force in three directions at once: downward, into the fence, and back into the miter gauge as you push the gauge forward. I would see this operation as safe.

http://t3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQv2wo5nOz9tZh9FuiSRETqGj0OjOM OCcwQfoaPR_0D-kxRMB_QvYNZCLusYw&usqp=CAY

[Ron Citerone]

https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to-cut-tenons-with-a-table-saw

This video from Rockler shows tenons being cut several ways with the fence and miter gauge for the non through cuts.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I run right up against the fence. No chance of accidentally drifting beyond the cut line. Why do you think the piece is more likely to rotate if against the fence? If anything, it would serve as an additional constraint.

Because if it does twist and catch it would probably also twist my face. Which might not be all bad... your method is somewhat safe if your miter gauge is lined with sandpaper. A smooth face on the miter gauge has too frequently Allowed slippage in my usage.

[William Hodge]

Try a sliding table.
You can set stops to make similarly sized pieces. You can also add in toggle clamps to hold the work down.

A good use for a table saw miter fence is to get another one, and take the guide bars off. Screw them to the bottom of a sliding table.