really bad experience using the K5 pocket hole system on face frame

[Forrest Gon]

My first time trying to use the kreg k5 on a cabinet faceframes, the rails and stiles are all 1.5", I have learned that no matter how hard I tried, the stiles would always move when I drilled using the K5, I tied some wider board with no issues though. So, is 1.5" too narrow for the K5 to clamp on? Is this something I should be expecting?

I bought the K5 few months ago and have missed the return window, i think this is probably the only tool I wish I did not purchase.

[Carroll Courtney]

Try putting some of that sandpaper with the adhesive to help hold it in place. I have one and just don't recall ever having problems, even with that small piece. Maybe watch some Youtubes see if they show how to use it on small pieces.

[Phil Gaudio]

I have found that this pocket hole clamp helps a lot:
454437

[George Bokros]

I have found that this pocket hole clamp helps a lot:
454437

His problem is when drilling not clamping.

[Matt Day]

How is the FF moving? Left and right, up and down? Of course you’re clamping it really tight with the clamp right?

Might be worth a call the Kreg. They have excellent customer service.

[Forrest Gon]

I have followed the instructions, as well as watching a few youtube videos just to make sure, the problem is only when I clamp and drill narrow boards, in my case, 1.5", the wood will move left and right when the bit hit the wood.



How is the FF moving? Left and right, up and down? Of course you’re clamping it really tight with the clamp right?

Might be worth a call the Kreg. They have excellent customer service.

[Phil Gaudio]

His problem is when drilling not clamping.

Thats what happens when you scan a post and hit maybe 30% of the words:D

[Phil Gaudio]

Looks like there are a number of folks with similar problem: check reviews on Amazon. Suggest you contact kreg, as already mentioned.
I'd be tempted to stick a pieces of PSA backed abrasive (e.g. 3M micro-finishing film) on the face of the clamp. Should help with lateral movement during clamping.

[Matt Day]

Again, call Kreg. They are great.

[Peter Kelly]

Maybe try the Kreg Jig Mini? https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/kreg-jig-mini/MKJKIT.html

1.5" wide is a pretty narrow piece of stock, this way you could use multiple clamps to secure the jig and workpiece to a bench top so it doesn't skate around on you.

[Myk Rian]

Wet your fingertip with water and dampen the wood where it meets. This will raise the surface fibers a little so they can grip together a bit.

[glenn bradley]

I'll offer some items:
- Call Kreg.
- The sandpaper idea has merit.
- A sharp bit makes a night and day difference with a pocket hole cutting setup.
- Technique actually comes into play even on this simple operation. Try slowing your entrance speed at the point the bit contacts the material.
- I use the mini for small items; this would not play well if you are in production.
- You could drill a row of pocket holes in a larger blanks and then rip your frame parts as a workaround

[Cary Falk]

I have used the K3, K4 and K5 on 1.5" wide boards without issue

[Joe Chritz]

Sharp tools and slower initial feed rate.

I have done many thousands of pocket holes and have little issue. However I have the K3 (I think) and I wonder if the auto clamping isn't strong enough. I had similar issues using the Foreman and changing my feed and clamping pressure fixed that.

Joe

[richard poitras]

https://castleusa.com/products/castle-110-pocket-cutter.html

[Richard Coers]

The most effective change you can do to get better results with a Kreg Jig, is use a cord drill. The higher rpm makes for much better drilling. When the first Kreg jigs hit the market, they insisted on people using a cord drill. Now with cordless everywhere, they have relented.

[Jason Roehl]

The most effective change you can do to get better results with a Kreg Jig, is use a cord drill. The higher rpm makes for much better drilling. When the first Kreg jigs hit the market, they insisted on people using a cord drill. Now with cordless everywhere, they have relented.

This had been my experience as well. Corded drills work much, much better for drilling the holes than cordless drills. Insert the bit in the slot, but don’t contact the wood, then bring the drill up to full speed before engaging the wood.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on the corded drill. That should have been on my list. 2500 - 3000 rpm leaves a nice, clean hole.