Routing long boards

[Jennifer Duerwald]

Hi. I Need some routing advise. I have been routing some long boards on my router table. I am using featherboards on each side of the table. When i get to the end of the board the bit pulls in the board for a deeper uneven cut. How can i prevent this. I am using jessem stock guides in addition to the featherboards

[Bruce King]

Sounds like the outfeed section of your fence is slightly further away from the work piece than the indeed section.

[Warren Lake]

photo would help,

we dont know how long the board is, how big the table is, or if you have infeed and outfeed support, or where you placed any feather boards.

Never did put much focus on router tables, they make a racket. Did stuff routers into different machines, shapers and table saws for some things shapers could not do.

Something wrong in your set up. should be pretty simple feather board set up, one feather board behind the cutter is enough, maybe one on top depending what your cut is. You should have enough feel to not need a feather board in front of the cutter, you cut a bit feel what the cutter is doing then you are into the feather board right away as an aid to keep flush and tight to the fence plus the kick back thing which is not in my thought pattern.

Fine to have a feather board in front of the cutter as well if you want one just be sure its not putting pressure in a way that pushes the board into the cutter.

[Cassius Nielsen]

I have had this happen with my own bad technique when I get to the end of a board. It happens when I run out of infeed fence and am still pushing against the fence and the board skews just a bit making a deeper cut on the very end. The other situation is when I am using a bearing bit and when I get to the end of a board it wants to keep following around the end when I am applying pressure. Best solution I have found is to lighten the pushing pressure against the fence and focus on keeping the board straight while pushing down while looking at the outfeed side of the fence to see if you are deviating. I use featherboards but have found them to be a bit of a false insurance at the very end when you actually need to pay attention and put the work in. No idea if this applies to you but it is why I have had this problem, maybe with the long boards you are getting just a little bit off the fence at the very end?

[Steve Eure]

A sacrificial fence will stop this. In order to accomplish this, you will need to have the sacrificial fence pulled apart and slowly and carefully close them around your cutter as it is running so that the cutter is outlined in your sacrificial fence. That way there is no gap for you stock to fall into as it passes the cutter. The opening on your fence will be extremely small around the cutter. I hope I have explained this so you can understand it.

[Walter Plummer]

It also sounds like you have to large a gap around the bit. Tighten it up as small as possible. The length is giving you a lot of leverage to over come the feather board.

[Lee Schierer]

Hi. I Need some routing advise. I have been routing some long boards on my router table. I am using featherboards on each side of the table. When i get to the end of the board the bit pulls in the board for a deeper uneven cut. How can i prevent this. I am using jessem stock guides in addition to the featherboards

It isn't clear from your description if you are using a fence to control the depth of cut. If there is a fence, you need to move your feather board on the out feed so it is more distant from the cutter. this will prevent the pivoting action that you are experiencing.

[roger wiegand]

Infeed and outfeed support? Just as with planers, table saws, shaper, sanders, and every other machine where the weight of a long board will tend to move it into or away from the cutter you need supports to take the weight off the ends so it doesn't sag. I have a couple pretty heavy adjustable roller stands (shop fox, I think) that work quite well for this and adapt to all of my machines.

[al ladd]

Might try a power feeder. Wouldn't need to be a very powerful one. Look for one that's easy to remove when unneeded.
.

[michael langman]

Would passing a 1 foot piece the same size as your stock directly behind the stock, butted up against it through the router keep everything from deflecting. Use the same 1 foot piece over and over .

[glenn bradley]

A lot has been covered and offered here. I just want to clarify, you are saying that you are getting something like snipe at the end of the board where it leaves the support of the right half of your split fence and passes the bit.

Questions:
1 - Is the bit bearing guided?
2 - Do you have good stock support for the entire feed path?

Let's get that nailed down and carry on from there.

[Gordon Stump]

The problem with a feather board is it is a feather board. It will flex. Steve's sacrificial fence is excellent advice. Also try clamping a block on the farthest point on the out feed side.

Just my $.02

[Mike Cutler]

Stop using the fence as your reference. Use a ZCIm sacrificial fenc setup. If you are profiling the entire edge. The fences will have to be off set.
A quick and easy method is to incorporate the use of a back fence, and utilize the existing fence for dust collection if the boards have parallel edges, or you want them al the same width at the end. It sounds complicates, but it is not.

[Marc Jeske]

In my experience there are many different operations where the first and / or last few inches are imperfect.

Sometimes it's much easier to just cut the "bad" ends off a overlength workpiece after the operation.

Marc

[Jennifer Duerwald]

Sorry first time posting her. Had trobling finding where to reply🥴. Yes i am using a fence. It is as close to the bit as i can get it. Making a sacricial fence would not allow me to use the jessem stock guides. I will look into off setting the fence and see what that accomplishes

[Jennifer Duerwald]

Yes the bit i bearing guided and stock support is good. And yes snipe when it leave right side of fence

[Jennifer Duerwald]

I thought of that but my piece is 8ft long. The legistics of juggling that seemed to difficult

[Stan Calow]

What kind of bit is it? Some cuts are easier to do with hand held router and a guide, if very long cut. But as mentioned, I often have to cut off one end due to an uneven cut at the end, so start with a longer workpiece than needed.

[Jennifer Duerwald]

Sorry I don’t know what a ZCIm fence is. Can you provide additional information of a video link

[Mark Hennebury]

Try it this way clamp a short straight fence to your router table top.
Make a plexiglass or MDF or plywood pressure plate. Clamp it to your table.
Cut a relief angle on the outfeed side of the pressure plate so that it will ride up on the incoming board.
Adjust the pressure plate so that it supplies pressure to your board, you can adjust that easily with a tap of a hammer.
You can put feather-boards or rollers or power-feeder on the top.
This way you wood is pressed firmly against the fence at the cutting point.
You can make the pressure board tip "zero" gap if you are careful , that prevent splinter.
You can do climb-cutting if you know what you are doing,( dangerous if you don't) best with a power feeder, You will get no tear-out or splintering.

Doing it this way you are pushing the wood away from the router bit, not into it like with conventional fences.
You won't get any snipe, boards will al be identical width. You can micro adjust the width with a gentle tap of a hammer against the fence.


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[Jennifer Duerwald]

Just went and checked the outfeed and it is slightly off. Guess i need a new fence. Any recommendations