Delta Cabinet Unisaw Alignment

[Warren White]

Good day to all!
I purchased a Forrest WW2 blade at the last WW Show I attended and thought that it would be a good time to check the alignment of my miter slot to the blade. Forrest recommends <2 mils front to back (of the same tooth on the blade); I have about 5.5 mils (as measured with a TS-Aligner).

Before I just go crazy and loosen the nuts holding the table on, do you have any advise for me? I know this isn't rocket science but surely there must be some secrets out there.

Following getting this set, I will then tackle the fence to miter slot to the fence, but one thing at a time.

Thanks!
Warren White

[Mike Swindell]

No rocket science here, I used a starrett square once the table was loosened aligned to front and back of the blade. Sometimes you get lucky, It took me about 15 min. Problems arise when you tighten the table down, sometimes it shifts. Enjoy

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Warren. I went through 'the exercise' on my Bridgewood cabinet saw. I used the A-Line-It. What I did was:

Step 0: unplug the saw!:eek:
1) install the A-Line-It and get a baseline reading.
2) Loosen the bolts holding the top to the cabinet base.
3) Use a rubber mallet to tap the corner(s) that will cause a correction.
4) After getting the A-Line-It gauge to read equal at each end of the saw blade rotation, snug up a pair of diagonal bolts.
5) Check A-Line-it readings, they should not change. If changed, go back to step 2.
6) The gauge readings are equal, proceed to snug up the other diagonal top bolts.
7) Check gauge readings, it should not have changed. If changed, go to step 2, else continue to slowly tighten diagonal pairs and check the gauge readings.
8) Bolts are tight and gauge readings are right on target. Clean up your tools, and grab a cool one of your choice.:)

This process will take you some time because you seldom get it right on the first try.

When snugging the diagonal pairs, tighten one a little and the other one a little, until you have a snugged the bolts, but not final tightness. Then go to the other diagonal pair and do the same tightening. After several iterations, you will get to a snugness that will be tight on all the bolts. Remember you are not tightening lug nuts on a spare tire, you are trying to sneak up on a setting, there are points subtracted for working too fast.

[Jamie Buxton]

In addition to Ken's fine instructions, you might check the thread starting with http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=133236#post133236

[David Fried]

Warren,

Ken's directions say it all. When I got my saw it was out 5 in the wrong direction (tighter at the rear). I did what Ken outlines and ended up with it 2 off (slightly looser at the rear) which I accepted. I just gave it a tap with my hand at the end of the 52" rails. If you have long rails remember they are giving you a lot of leverage - just a tap!

Dave Fried

[Russ Massery]

One thing I might add when correcting your move the table only HALF on the indicator reading. The other end of the blade should move the other half.

[Jim Becker]

Leave one bolt snug to help control things. Otherwise, aligning a cabinet saw is pretty easy and just a matter of tweek, measure, tweek, measure...etc.

[Warren White]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I loosened the bolts up and very quickly went from 5 mils to 30! It did take a bit of fiddling (and the help of a former submariner friend of mine who can figure anything out) and I am now down to 2 mils. As he pointed out, I am cutting wood not making nuclear weapons.

This is a great forum and I really appreciate the help. You were all right on with your suggestions. Thanks again.

Best wishes to all!
Warren

[Russ Massery]

Warren, I was looking again at your post did you say that your alignment is 2 millimeters? Because thats 7 almost 8 thousands on an inch that a lot outof alignment. Just wondering.

[Jamie Buxton]

Warren, I was looking again at your post did you say that your alignment is 2 millimeters? Because thats 7 almost 8 thousands on an inch that a lot outof alignment. Just wondering.


Russ, in machinists' language, 1 mil is .001".