Solid wood or veneer?

[Mark Gibney]

My quandary - there are two end panels on my build, 13” x 32”.
The panels will be captured by two legs and two rails. There will applied cockbeading all around on the inside edge of the legs and rails.

I could make the panels from MDF with a veneered face (QS white oak) and I know it will be stable.
The issue is that I would need to order the veneer and I get nervous when I cannot see something physically, just online photos, that will be prominent.

Another approach would be a solid wood panel, just as if I was making a raised panel cabinet door. The challenge here would be to get a nice consistent reveal between the panel and the cockbeading that is fairly close in size to the gap around the inset drawer fronts, but that allows enough seasonal movement.

This way I chose the wood, something I’m more comfortable with.

All advice and wisdom welcome!

[Kevin Jenness]

Woodweb's shrinkulator indicates that a 13" wide solid QS white oak panel would move 1/16" either side of center with a 4% change in MC. If your design can accommodate that much movement solid wood is appropriate.

Veneer from a reputable source should be as shown and returnable if not acceptable. Keep in mind that only the highest grade logs are sliced for veneer. If you want more control you can slice veneer from your own lumber.

[Mark Gibney]

Thanks Kevin, that's great to know about how little QS white oak moves.
I would slice my own veneer but my bandsaw needs some TLC that won't be done in time.
Thanks again.

[al ladd]

Ebay can be a good source of small quantities of veneer, with good photos of pieces you'd get.

[Alan Lightstone]

From reputable dealers, I've never had an issue with veneers that I can see the picture of online. Personally, I'd veneer it, but either one should work well, as long as you take into consideration the wood movement.

Post a picture when you're done.