Cutting Acrylic

[Mitchell Ristine]

Hi all. I know a guy with a laser. He cut me a router template out of ¼” hard board. Initially I wanted an acrylic template but he said that sometimes the laser will skew while going through ¼” acrylic. Because I am worried about the fragility of the hardboard, I’d still like an acrylic template.

QUESTION:

Can I cut the acrylic using my table saw and router? What should I know about that process?

[Zac Martin]

i've cut acrylic using my table/miter saw before. Didn't have any issues... is a bit messy if I recall.

[Dave Cav]

I cut it all the time on both the table saw and router. On the table saw a finer tooth blade works better but don't go too slow because it'll melt the kerf. With the router, it routes just like hardwood only you don't have to worry about grain direction, just bandsaw as close to the line as you can before you router it. It's very messy....

[Phillip Mitchell]

I use a Triple Chip Grind blade on the table saw and it cuts just fine and is a bit messy.

Routing is I problem either, but again the mess...

[Alex Zeller]

I just bought a universal one off of ebay for less than $20. Unless you have an unusual hole pattern or want an unusual shape I doubt that the time and effort would be worth it. Plexiglass will chip if you go too fast. If you go too slow or the blade isn't sharp the chips will melt and fill in the slot you've just made. A cheap plexiglass knife will cut it easier and then just a little sanding will clean it up.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have cut acrylic on the bandsaw, it worked fine. I also cut upholstery foam on the bandsaw, and brass and aluminum, so I'm probably somewhat deranged.

[David Lageman]

Freud makes a great blade for cutting on the table saw. As mentioned, don't go too slowly as it will melt and yes, it's quite messy! I put a link to the blade here but if that breaks any rules, please forgive me and the mods can remove the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7AL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Lee Schierer]

Acrylic is very prone to breakage, particularly when compressed under a screw head. If you want a see through base for your router use polycarbonate. It is much more resistant to breakage than Acrylic. Polycarbonate can also be work with wood working equipment with less mess.

[Mitchell Ristine]

Not a base. A template. For repetitive cuts.

[Lee Schierer]

Not a base. A template. For repetitive cuts.

Even so, Acrylic is brittle.

[Warren Lake]

baltic birch for templates

[johnny means]

1/2" acrylic isn't going to prove much more durable. I use 3/4" multiply for any templates that need to last. The ever present end grain makes it hard enough and the extra thickness leave room for error.

[Richard Coers]

Only use a single O flute router bit and slower speeds. A traditional up cut spiral will build enough heat to weld a wad of swarf to the bit and mar the surface of the acrylic. A laser can produce an hour glass shape cut, but I think some creative focusing can limit that.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Acrylic is very prone to breakage, particularly when compressed under a screw head. If you want a see through base for your router use polycarbonate. It is much more resistant to breakage than Acrylic. Polycarbonate can also be work with wood working equipment with less mess.

I was to write that. I use polycarbonate for a such application, also.

On the other extreme I have some router plates made from 6mm MDF and "super glue" applied over cut edges. It has worked...

[Keith Outten]

Hi all. I know a guy with a laser. He cut me a router template out of ¼” hard board. Initially I wanted an acrylic template but he said that sometimes the laser will skew while going through ¼” acrylic. Because I am worried about the fragility of the hardboard, I’d still like an acrylic template.

QUESTION:

Can I cut the acrylic using my table saw and router? What should I know about that process?

I'm not sure that I understand what it means for a laser to skew when cutting acrylic. I can tell you that if you are going to use a bearing against extruded acrylic the bearing will often melt the acrylic edge on contact. I have had very good success using 1/4" thick cast acrylic for routing templates that I have used for years.

[Derek Cohen]

I have used a table saw and a band saw to cut acrylic. A disk- or belt sander shapes curves. It can be routered - just keep the speed down. A block plane smoothes edges. And a linen wheel with compound buffs the edges clear.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/RouterTableAdventure_html_64206d7a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Peter Kelly]

I've had lots of templates made from 1/4" Masonite lasered out from Ponoko, never had an issue with a brass router bushing wearing them after repeated use. It'd be inexpensive enough to have several of the same one made once the g-code file is loaded up into the machine if you're concerned about wear.

[Alex Zeller]

I would call a few glass shops around your area. Because it's pricey they usually save smaller pieces of polycarb. Like a woodworker who will charge a customer for a whole sheet of plywood but save the cutoffs those small pieces are basically already paid for so they may part with them for a cheaper price if they just have to hand it to you and let you cut it as needed. It'll most likely be 1/4" (6mm) thick as thicker stuff isn't used that often. Since scratches don't matter that'll work in your favor too. Like others have said plexiglass wouldn't be my first choice because it's harder to work with.

If you can standardize the outside dimensions I'm sure you could find someone local or even someone here on SMC with a CNC router could make templates for you. A waste board that s set up for a specific size and thickness would help save some time. Sending the polycarb through the USPS shouldn't be too expensive unless it's large. It would be even cheaper if you came up with your own files. Standard JPG pictures require plenty of work to convert over to a format that's good for a CNC to use. It's something anyone with a computer could do so doing it yourself just saves the guy with the CNC time doing it.