Tapering Jigs - Why

[Bruce Wrenn]

Looking to build a tapering jig. Don't need one, just been on my wish list for years. FYI, I know how to taper legs on the jointer. Looking online, in books, and magazines, all mount to the right of the blade, none to the left. Using on right side of the blade means my left arm is over the blade. Not exactly smart in my opinion. I'm very attached to that arm, had it all my life. Want to keep it. Is there some reason a tapering jig can't be used on left side of the blade?

[johnny means]

If your arm is over the blade, your doing something wrong. I build tapering jigs for either side of the blade. Some use the miter slot, some the fence, some even attach to the slider. None of them ever requires me to reach over the blade.

[Randy Heinemann]

Not sure why you'd want to build a tapering jig if you already have other tried and true methods. A tapered leg is a tapered leg is a tapered leg regardless of how it's produced. Unless you regularly build the type of furniture which incorporate tapered legs as a design feature or need that capability for other projects too, there are so many other challenges to build. Much of the fun of woodworking is building something for a family member or a good friend.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Most tapering jigs are only 3" at the narrowest part, meaning, yes, if you use both hands to guide the jig, your forearm will be above the blade.

That is easily cured by building the base wider, say about 12", so at its narrowest part, the blade is 12" from the fence, and your arm can be well within that comfort zone. I tend to build one-off taper jigs out of scrap plywood with a knotch.

[Todd Trebuna]

I have a tapering jig that I use infrequently, learning to prefer instead the jointer/taper sled. It's a 12 inch bed of laminated plywood with a movable fence secured in two t-tracks with knobs. Set the fence for 12 inches and then dial in the overlap and you've got great material support. Best thing is it's easily repeatable and keeps your hands away from the blade.

[Jim Becker]

It doesn't matter which side of the blade you are using if you design the fixture well...which includes clamps and stops to hold the material securely and a handle or other similar arrangement that permits you to guide the assembly through the cut. One should not be holding the material directly and placing their hands that close to the blade. My personal preference for this kind of fixture is to the left of the blade which has worked well for me, both with my previous cabinet saw "years ago" and my current sliding table saw. The former used the miter slot to guide the fixture; the latter uses the slider's wagon with the fixture secured to the wagon directly.

[Don Coffman]

I built an "L- fence", since - I haven't needed to use my taper jig.

[Mike Kees]

Buy a shaper. All my taper jigs are for use on my shaper.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Buy a shaper. All my taper jigs are for use on my shaper.


Go back to my original post. "Don't need it, just want it." At my stage in life, after 60 years of working, I'm slowing down. Now doing the things I WANT TO DO!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Made my decision, going with a miter bar guided jig, wide enough to be cut on both left and right side of the blade. Then no matter which way I put it on saw, it will work. If I find one side more to my liking than the other, then I may make a new one for that side only.

[johnny means]

I'm still at a loss as to what type of jig would need an arm over the blade. My hands never need to be in that position on any jig I'd make.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Off subject a little, but a good tapering jig can be used to straight line rip off a live edge. It's function best done with a slider, but a good jig will work on smaller stuff.

[Derek Cohen]

It doesn't matter which side of the blade you are using if you design the fixture well...which includes clamps and stops to hold the material securely and a handle or other similar arrangement that permits you to guide the assembly through the cut. One should not be holding the material directly and placing their hands that close to the blade. My personal preference for this kind of fixture is to the left of the blade which has worked well for me, both with my previous cabinet saw "years ago" and my current sliding table saw. The former used the miter slot to guide the fixture; the latter uses the slider's wagon with the fixture secured to the wagon directly.

Jim .. exactly ...

This is the parallel guide I built for my K3 slider. It could easily be used against a rip fence on a standard table saw. The fences may be set to parallel or at an angle.

https://i.postimg.cc/JnVWx3Td/1.jpg

More details here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Cutler]

That's a fine jig/fixture that you made Derek. Very nice.
For the OP, the typical "tapering jigs" I have seen for sale are cheap flimsy pieces of soft aluminum, and very limited in usability. A carrier board, like Derek presented is the safest way on a table saw. It's no different than ripping a board to width.
As to why? I think because many people have a limited shop and, or, don't have a big enough bandsaw, shaper, or jointer, to do the work and use their table saw.