Maintaining plane bodies

[Aaron Karp]

I'm a newcomer to hand tools, and recently bought my first few planes from LV/Veritas. I've tried to take good care of them (they're quite an investment!) but they have already begun to tarnish (not sure if that's the right word -- see photos below). Is this rust? Some kind of pre-rust? The marks are principally fingerprint-shaped, in case that provides a clue. I've tried to rub it off with elbow grease and jojoba oil, as well as krud kutter, but with little effect. I should note that the blades are still spotless, even though they're the only part of the plane that ever touches water (during sharpening).

They live in a drawer in my garage, which is kept around 50% RH by a dehumidifier. About a month ago I added Zerust (https://www.amazon.com/Zerust-VC2-2-NoRust-Vapor-Capsule/dp/B003T1H7IA/) capsules to the drawers as well.

Any thoughts on (1) How this happened (2) How to prevent it (3) How to clean it?

Many thanks!


453414
453415

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have a thick oil that I would put on it and then use steel wool. This will take that rust off pretty well.

I usually wipe my planes off with camellia oil before putting them away. When I run out of that, I will probably switch to some other oil or thing to keep rust away.

I then wipe it off before I use them.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Aaron, your location is not provided in your profile.

If you live in a high humidity area your dehumidifier might not be enough.

Some folks have chemistry in their sweat that can tarnish metal. That would be a different matter than humidity to confront when it comes to caring for your tools.

Before being put away my tools are wiped using a cloth saturated with Howards Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish & Conditioner > https://www.howardproducts.com/product/feed-n-wax-wood-polish-and-conditioner/

This protects them from the effects of humidity and temp changes. A long term goal is to build a cabinet for them with golden rod type heaters to keep them warm enough so moisture in the air will not condense on them.

If the tarnishing is caused by reaction to sweat a different protocol will likely be required and someone else will have to provide that.

jtk

[William Fretwell]

Yes Aaron steel rusts. That is the start of rusting. Oxygen and water are the enemies. Dry storage is best. Cold storage with humidity and temperature swings can cause condensation on cold tools. The fingerprints of rust show the acids in your skin help the rusting process. Plenty of oil based rust preventers on the market, the trick is getting them on the steel. The Sellers oiled cloth in can to lube the plane during use also works when you put it away, quick swipe on the flat faces.

My Lee Valley planes have some signs of rust, despite the oil, 20% humidity in winter, 80% summer. My Clifton’s show no signs of rust. All stored in the same tool chest. Very hard to remove, fine wire wool and oil, after that it’s a lot of work. Phosphoric acid to kill the rust is one option, commercial products are available.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Removal: 0000 steel wool with a bit of WD-40. If that doesn’t remove the rust, scrape lightly with a single edge razor and repeat with the oiled steel wool. Wipe clean. If that doesn’t work rub with a fresh 0000 steel wool pad and a bit of white vinegar. This should be your last resort as it may discolor the metal.

Maintenance: after each use wipe all parts (including the blade) with jojoba or camellia oil on a rag and do so after each use. A little goes a long way. Small bottles of these oils can be purchased inexpensively at most health food stores.

[David Bassett]

I have been very happy with Jojoba Oil for rust protection. It's recommended by Lie-Nielsen for tool protection. It's also sold in the beauty sections of local stores, (e.g. our Trader Joe's has it with their health products.) But the best price per oz. I've found is from L-N, until you include shipping. So if you have some other order going and throw a bottle in your cart....

Jojoba oil is liquid at normal room temp, but is thick and waxy so it stays on a tool well once it's wiped on. (We don't get that cold here, but once I received a bottle that was "frozen" solid in shipping and took 3 days to "thaw" at room temperature.) Christopher Schwarz promotes using a micro-fiber cloth to apply the oil (and calls it his Super-Woobie :) ), though he credits L-N with the specific idea. BTW- I've never felt the need to wipe the thin coating off before use.

For long term storage or higher humidity or temperature swings, you may want something thicker and more persistent though.

[Bob Jones 5443]

These are good suggestions for knocking back the rust you have.

After that, a wipe down after each use is called for. Near my bench I keep an Altoids box with a folded microfiber cloth in it. Onto the cloth I spray a few squirts of camellia oil. Before putting the planes up for the day, I open the can, fluff up the cloth a bit so it's above the metal rim, and swipe it over the three plane faces. If the cloth is a little heavy in the oil (soon after the squirt refreshing), I may follow up the swipes with a light wipe with a dry paper towel. But leaving the camellia oil on the plane will not hurt a thing. The Altoids can snaps shut and stays clean and ready for next time.

My rule is, if I've touched it, it has finger slime on it. I don't use machined iron tools if my hands are sweaty; I'll just wash them first. But a little finger "oil" doesn't stand a chance against the camellia oil swipe.

[Michael J Evans]

It's odd. I read of people's planes rusting and rust spots.
Likely because I use only vintage planes, but I live near portland oregon and current humidity shows 83%, but I've never thought my planes rusted easily or unusually... I use the paul sellers rag in a can and don't even wipe down all the time, usually only when I'm actually using a tool. In fact I had planes wrapped in bubble wrap and boxed up for 2 years with no unusual rusting (couple small rust spots) The worst I've had a plane rust was when I left it on my plywood shelf for a few years without using it. When I picked it up, the mouth was rusted pretty good, and the plywood was black underneath.

[David Bassett]

... I use the paul sellers rag in a can and don't even wipe down all the time, usually only when I'm actually using a tool. ...

I certainly didn't mean to suggested wiping down the planes was a maintenance task I did on a schedule. I use the tool, (plane, chisel, saw, whatever,) and then brush off any chips or dust and then wipe off any finger prints or crud. That's all until the next time I use them. I suppose if you leave them out so that they collect significant dust or have humidity or temperature swings large enough they collect moisture, then something more might be needed. But I'm lazy, Jim's Goldenrod in a closed space is the idea I'd pursue for that.

As far as how to apply the oil, or grease, that seems regional or cultural or based on the person that gave you the idea. I recall discussion of oily rags packed in a box as a traditional Japanese technique. Roy Underhill did a segment on a grease box, filled with lanolin, and attributed it to English tradition. Peter Sellers apparently has substituted oil for lanolin, (or Roy got it a little wrong.) I use the oily rag, without can, mostly because I first read it on Chris Schwarz's blog shortly before I attended a L-N event where they recommended it. Thus reinforced I tried it, it worked for me, and I never had need to try an alternative. But I can't think why any of the alternatives wouldn't work as well.

[Kurt Cady]

I use an oily rag to wipe down any tool I’ve used. After using a brush to clean out as much dust and chips. Just like many have mentioned.

I differ in that my oily cotton washcloth is soaked with mineral oil. You can find it in the pharmacy marketed as a laxative. Somewhere around $1-$2 for a lifetime 16oz supply

[Todd Trebuna]

Boat suppliers sell jars of desiccant that absorbs moisture. If they are in a cabinet, you might consider putting a jar in the bottom of the cabinet.

[Aaron Karp]

Thanks all for the detailed and thoughtful replies. I'll try cleaning with superfine steel wool + the jojoba oil I already own, and if that doesn't work, wd-40. And I'll start making sure to thoroughly clean and oil up the planes after each use. I've been blessed with perpetually clammy hands, so probably all the more reason to have a strict cleaning protocol.

I live by the coast in New Jersey, where it's about 40% humidity in the winter and 80% in the summer. Because I'm right by the water it's possible that the air contains some salt too. Temperature in my garage, which is semi-insulated, swings from around 50 in the winter to 80 in the summer. My dehumidifier *claims* that it's keeping the RH down around 50% year round, but it's also possible that since the tool chest where I keep everything is poorly ventilated, some humidity is getting trapped inside.

And one final point of comparison: my Stanley Sweetheart LA Jack isn't showing any signs of rust or discoloration despite being my most-used plane, so as William observed, maybe there is something about the LV steel that is more prone to rusting.

[Robert Engel]

I wouldn't worry about tarnish.

I live in swampland, USA. Rust was a constant problem even with dehumid rods, Damp rid and every thing else you can think of.

Until I built an air conditioned room no problems at all anymore. The RH in the room runs around 55%.

[Jim Matthews]

I switched to wooden body planes for the same reason. I still wipe down my steel blades and chisels prior to longer term storage.

I use WD40, which is adequate but not ideal.

I also scatter the Zerust Plastabs I the drawers and storage cabinets.

https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/electronics-tools-parts/plastabs/

[Thomas Wilson]

No dust needed to see your finger print. Water, air, salt from your skin, and very clean, unoxidized iron rusts very readily. Iron begins to rust at lower relative humidity than steel. Hence your blades are not rusting. Most oils will provide some protection. CRC 36 is supposed to be the best, according to a test by Fine Woodworking. The VCI (volatile corrosion inhibitor) paper that new planes are wrapped in is good for 6 months to a year if kept in a sealed container.

You mentioned cleaning the rust off the sole with steel wool. That will work. Rubbing them on wood works too. With a nice LV plane, you should probably do that daily.

[john zulu]

the rust on the thumb recess is from the sweat of your hand. If it is that important that you have no rust. You can use work gloves when necessary or change the body to bronze planes. It is the nature of wood working and hand planes.

[Aaron Karp]

Here is what the nice folks at LV said to me:


What you are seeing is rust. That’s what cast iron will do. The leaflet that came with the plane had maintenance tips.

Essentially, cast iron should be waxed periodically. If it gets wet in any way it should be waxed. If you get glue on it, it should be cleaned and waxed.
Any silicone free (furniture grade) wax will do. I like this product: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/75653-veritas-tool-wax?item=05Z1601

To clean the rust off use paint thinner and either a grey or burgundy abrasive pad or fine steel wool. When clean, let dry, then wax.

For generally wiping down my machines as well as lubricating moving parts, I like Boeshield T-9: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/50252-boeshield-t-9-protectant-and-lubricant?item=56Z8030

[Lawrence Burkett]

All of the techniques described in this thread work, but it's worth mentioning that this is often more of an issue with new planes that people try to keep in pristine, polished condition. Older metal body planes (look at an old Bailey) develop a patina in use that is naturally rust resistant (different from rust proof), similar to bluing. For some hand tools (e.g. knives), people intentionally encourage the development of patina using a variety of methods including vinegar, mustard, etc. I haven't heard about people forcing a patina on hand tools, but I'm sure people do. Planes with a patina can and will rust if water condenses on them, but they are fairly well protected from normal use.

With that said, I don't know if the chemistry of the ductile iron in modern LV, LN planes precludes developing the same patina that we find in carbon steel and older cast iron.

[William Fretwell]

One of my favourite planes, the LV large shoulder plane:
453510
You can see the start of rusting despite using the Sellers oil rag can. The other side of the plane has almost nothing:

453511

Yes I’m right handed:

453513

The acids in my skin are the culprit. Fine wire wool and oil does nothing, carbide impregnated pad just scratches, the rust stays. Rust ‘remover’ does nothing. The rust gets into the texture of the steel. A mirror polished finish would have far less surface area but perhaps then we would be complaining about pitting!

Who knows what the eventual patina will be, I do know I won’t be around to see it!

[Curt Putnam]

Nothing I have ever treated with CorrosionX HD has ever rusted. Read about it here. https://www.corrosionx.com/search?q=corrosionx+hd Do not treat the fence rods of your skewed rabbet plane with the stuff - the clamps will not hold.

I got turned onto it about 25 years ago - treated all my salt water fishing gear and that didn't rust either. Still working on the same spray can. I spray some on a rag and use that to wipe the tools with.

[William Fretwell]

It seems to be good stuff for stationary steel or steel you don’t handle. If it’s as hard to wash off with a power washer as they claim it won’t come off you hands easily. This almost certainly will cause reactions in some people’s skin. This is why people use Camilla oil or furniture wax for tools they handle frequently.
I also wonder is some of this gets on the wood you if it would cause finishing problems as it’s so tenacious?

[Steven Herbin]

I live in south Florida, close to the ocean. Salt air and the sweat on my hands made my saws and LN planes tarnished and corroded. I removed the tarnish with the scotch brite burgundy pads (recommended by LN). Tarnish came back after Jojoba and camellia oil. The answer (for me) came in a call to Starrett. I figured they had more experience due to nautical applications.

The person I spoke to recommended using petroleum jelly. I used some we had in the house, very thin coat. It worked like magic. I went to BJs and bought 2 large tubs for about $5 and haven't looked back. Whenever I use any of my steel tools (planes, saws, squares, rules, etc.) I apply a thin coat of the vaseline. No rust. ... and it doesn't affect the wood surface.

[Stew Denton]

Hi All,

Concerning the causes of rust due to finger prints, etc., as mentioned above, both oil from your hands, and salt from sweat can promote rust.

Salt itself does not cause the rust. However, salt is a little hygroscopic, and will draw small amounts of moisture from the air. The moisture does not cause the rust either, however. What happens is that oxygen from the air will dissolve in the tiny amount of moisture and the moisture helps the oxygen to be in intimate contact with the cast iron, and the oxygen is what actually causes the rust. Also, carbon dioxide from the air will also dissolve to a limited extent in the moisture which then reacts with the water to form carbonic acid which is a mild acid which will also slowly attack steel and cast iron.

In additions I suspect, but do not know for certain, that the oils from your skin also help hold on to the tiny salt deposits from the sweat, and make it harder to clean off the metal surface.

One problem is that cast iron is actually a little porous, and thus the rust can occur in microscopic pores on the surface, which makes it harder to get off.

Thus, getting the finger/hand prints/sweat off is important. If you have caused sweat on the cast iron, you need to get it off. In most cases if the sweat is very mild just "huffing" on the metal to get traces of humidity on the iron will dissolve the salt and get it off with a dry Kleenex. Part of the problem with the salt from your sweat is that when tiny mounts of moisture combine with the salts, and it isn't just sodium chloride, but also calcium chloride and other salts that are far more hygroscopic than is sodium chloride.

The barely damp salts will form a solution, by pulling moisture from the air, and then not let it evaporate in most conditions, so it continues to do damage.

At a salt plant where I worked as the quality control and lab manager for the plant, we had a full time painter. He sand blasted things that were small enough to take to the blaster to get down to bare metal prior to painting. In the plant he used only high quality oil base enamel paint and primer. As additives to the primer he would add a little of either oil tar creosote, or actual tar, dissolved in paint thinner. When the primer was painted on the I beams, etc., the paint thinner would eventually evaporate and the creosote or tar would dry and harden as a part of the primer after the solvent evaporated and the primer had cured and remain as part of the primer. The added material would make the primer more moisture proof than the primer alone. However, you could only add a limited amount without creating other problems. Two coats of high quality oil based enamel would go over the primer, and the combination of the tar/creosote, primer, and enamel would protect the steel better than the primer/enamel alone. I believe he learned such from previous generations of painters at the plant.

The moist salt air around the sea is an insignificant problem for causing rust compared to the fine layers of salt dust that settle everywhere in the salt plant where I worked.

Great advise of rust prevention in the above sets of comments. I had not thought about petroleum jelly, but will have to think on that some.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Scott Winners]

Since the thread is bumped anyway...

Two observations not already mentioned in thread:

I got jojoba oil at my local hippie store, for more than the LN bottle on the shelf in Maine, but less expensive than the same bottle shipped to me. I dedicated a new prewashed shop rag and a ziploc baggie to the process, so the oil bottle and the rag are inside the ziplock together. I have been happy with the system, by personal sweat doesn't seem to cause corrosion. There were a couple places oin the LN website where I have read corosive sweat is a property some people do have have and other people don't.

Second, I would be inclined to try waxing stuff if my sweat was corosive. I use candle wax on my saw blades and feel pretty good about that getting smeared around when the plate heats up in a vigorous cut, but for plane bodies I would be inclined to at least try SCJohnson floor wax. In summer time temps it is fairly easy to buff it hot enough to liquify, and then buff again tomorrow when the was has cooled back to soild. Plus it is super handy for drawer slides and lubricating wood screws.

[Mike Soaper]

No dust needed to see your finger print. Water, air, salt from your skin, and very clean, unoxidized iron rusts very readily. Iron begins to rust at lower relative humidity than steel. Hence your blades are not rusting. Most oils will provide some protection. CRC 36 is supposed to be the best, according to a test by Fine Woodworking. The VCI (volatile corrosion inhibitor) paper that new planes are wrapped in is good for 6 months to a year if kept in a sealed container.

You mentioned cleaning the rust off the sole with steel wool. That will work. Rubbing them on wood works too. With a nice LV plane, you should probably do that daily.

here's a link to that Fine Woodworking test

011227030.pdf (finewoodworking.com) (https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/10038/011227030.pdf)

I'm trying the non petroleum Moovitt, but it's too early to make a judgement.

For those who don't use their tools frequently, you might consider putting them in a gasketed storage bin.

here's one from ace, since covid the prices have gone up, maybe because the same materials were used in protective gear?
Iris Weathertight 7.7 in. H x 15.7 in. W x 19.7 in. D Stackable Storage Box - Ace Hardware (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/storage-and-organization/totes-bins-and-baskets/household-storage-bins-boxes-drawers/6190961)

[steven c newman]

Very simple in my shop....since it IS in a rather damp basement......a cheap paint brush....load a bit with 3in1 oil, swab the plane down, before it goes back onto a shelf....easy as can be.

BTW: that Brush is about $0.98 + tax at Wall E World.....