Nice Little Table Saw Gift - Need to ask some advice on fine tuning

[David Feldbaum]

Finally after 3.5 months of waiting, it has arrived. Took me like 2hours maybe more to put this thing together. I have to say after almost a year of research this thing is awesome, but the direction are #$%#$%#$. I mean flat out horrible. If any of their engineers who build this thing in CAD would probably be fired for not even understanding how to put their own stuff together.

From the photo I left out a part and not sure where it goes.


So I quit for the day, but I will start fresh tomorrow with the fine tune.

So. I ask the experts should I level the wings first? then put on the fence and tighten that, or keep it how I have it in the pictures and level the wings with the fence loosened? I also have to figure out the dust collector because its not even mentioned in the manual. 453203453205453206453206453203453205

[ChrisA Edwards]

I don't think that is a part, it's a cheap wrench for assembly for two different nut/bolt sizes.

[David Feldbaum]

Thanks. I was sure I put it,together properly. I
l put it in a box for safe keeping but I didn’t use it. I forgot to mention I bought the laguna f1. Nice handy beginner table saw for novices who want to be professionals.

[Dave Zellers]

I think first I would check the alignment of the blade to the miter slot. Then the fence to the miter slot, then tune up the wings. Then get it dusty.

[glenn bradley]

I align the miter slot to the blade before I put the wings and fence on . . . so much easier if a lot of adjustment is required. Probably a non-issue on a new machine. Hopefully it will be pretty close from the factory. I do the blade alignment at 90* and at 45*, then do the fence to the same miter slot used for blade setup.

[David Feldbaum]

453258Ok so an update on today's business. Took over 1 hour but I think i fine tuned it using my straight edge. I dont have those special tools but I can barely fit paper in most of the areas up and down the wings. I then used my miter digital gauge thing, and ran it down the 2 saw blade points, as well as the fence, and it ran 0 on the fence until i got to the very end and then read .001 I think that means i am good to go.

Now for the hard part. I ran some test strips to rip them and I felt going in smooth, but then closer to the end it felt like it was binding up even when I used the push stick. My question is on my saw you can see from the photo it comes with that saw blade protection plastic. I didn't try and rip a board without so I don't know if that was causing the issue. Could there not be enough wax on the table? Maybe the stock I had was not 100% squared off when trying to rip. The more practice I get with the saw I will feel more comfortable. This was my first time ever operating one. It is scary I do have to say, but once i got the hang of it, it will just become natural. The other thing is that the blade i'm using is stock since my thin kerf from Forrest is still back ordered for a month. Could that be causing the issue?

[Wes Grass]

I would do a test by ripping a piece, and turning the saw off after it's past the blade. Then try pulling it back thru between the *stopped* blade and fence. It should slide in pretty easily. If it hits the teeth at the back the fence is toed in and needs to be adjusted for a teeny amount of clearance. Teeny-teeny, like 2 or 3 thousandths at the most.

But as noted, check alignment to the miter slot first.

As for the wrench, the hole in the middle might imply it can hang on the saw somewhere for regular use. It doesn't by chance fit anything involved with changing the blade, does it? It doesn't look big enough, but ...

[Ryan Yeaglin]

setting the trailing edge of the fence away from the blade .002-.003" isn't a bad idea. Helps with binding and is past the cutting edge to effect the cut quality.

[Tom Bender]

Nice shop David.