Ripping - Safety accessories

[Jon Snider]

I’ve posted here a fair bit about my Felder K700 which I’ve grown to love over the past year building my latest dory. But I still use my old PM66 for long rips (sometimes up to 12-14’’ for gunwales, chines, frames, etc.). After getting nailed by a plywood kickback a few years ago (my fault, poor technique) I started using a magnetic feather board, and then the board buddies which mount on the fence.

My saw doesn’t have a riving knife and I’m thinking about getting a Sawstop (mainly b/c other people, friends, kids use my shop and I’ll feel better about the liability).

I’m happy with the ripping. Even when set loose the board buddies and feather board add quite a bit of resistance to pushing. This has been true from the start, not a new thing, and is with a newly sharpened rip blade which is well aligned. Last week at a friends shop with a SS, ripping was much smoother and easier. He pooh poohed the board buddies and said with a riving knife usually not necessary. Didn’t use a feather board either.

I’m curious how many others use the board buddies or other safety accessories , even if on a saw with riving knife?

Thx. Jon

[Dave Mills]

Fairly recently I installed the JessEm guides on my SawStop, which are similar to the board buddies. For long boards, or large plywood pieces, they are awesome in terms of holding the board to the table and pushing it toward the fence. They provide a second pair of hands when I'm also trying to maneuver large stock.

... and they don't duplicate the functionality of a riving knife, so I'm unclear of the particulars of the "I don't need them, I have a riving knife" debate.

[Jon Snider]

Thanks Dave. First to clarify, I also have the Jessem ones, not the board buddies. Two, I think he meant with the knife it was less likely the long board would drift into the blade teeth and kick back. Not sure as I didn’t specifically ask him.

and third, I also didn’t mention another issue with the Jessem guides is, most of my rips are very narrow, for gunwales etc and the guide closet to me gets in the way of pushing the board, even with a push stick.

[Charlie Jones]

My saw doesn’t have a riving knife. I use a splitter for long rips and a feather board. It is critical that your fence is properly aligned to the blade. I have mine adjusted slightly open at the far end. I always stand to the side and use a push stick.

[David Feldbaum]

I bought the gripper to strip small pieces of wood. Have not,used it yet but I was also eyeing the jessem for sure. I own their router table guides and love,them so it should be awesome on the table saw.

[Derek Cohen]

I’m curious how many others use the board buddies or other safety accessories , even if on a saw with riving knife?

Thx. Jon

Jon, the benefit from the JessEm is not just to avoid kickback, but also to improve the quality of a rip cut by minimising the movement of the board along the rip fence. It does this very well, with the in-angled wheels forcing the workpiece against the fence.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Neil Gaskin]

I have a Sawstop cabinet saw with the riving knife. Depending on the cut I'll use feather boards and we also installed Jessem hold downs that I mounted to the fence that are helpful. Safety aside the sawstop is a good quality tool. I'd recommend keeping an extra brake and blade on hand for the occasional tripping that seems to happen at just the wrong time.

[Rod Sheridan]

The best safety addition is a stock feeder.....Rod

[Gordon Dale]

The best safety addition is a stock feeder.....Rod
Thanks for mentioning this Rod. It’s something I’ve thought about. Suggestions anyone on a good brand or set-up? Thanks.

[Curt Putnam]

I used to use some anti-kickback wheels from Woodworker's Supply and pretty much quit after getting a track saw. Long rips or rips in sketchy wood get done with the track saw or else on the band saw. Removing 1/16" without extraordinary precautions is not worrisome.

For those who do everything on the table saw, the JessEm guides look great - albeit spendy.

[Ron Selzer]

The best safety addition is a stock feeder.....Rod

I agree 100%, you are set up for ripping only on that saw. Find a feeder and go at it.
I own a SawStop 5hp ICS and it is very nice if you do decide to go that way, HOWEVER for the work you describe you need a power feeder
Ron

[William Hodge]

The best safety addition is a stock feeder.....Rod

I have used various Italian and German stock feeders over the years.Right now I have a big German one, and a Delta mini feeder. The mini feeder is surprisingly effective at ripping and shaping. I leave it on the table Powermatic 66, and use it on a 5 hp 1 1/4" spindle shaper for moldings. The one drawback is limited rip width. The reach is almost nothing, unless you put it on the left side of the blade. The larger stock feeder rips 14 5/8" wide.

Setting up the feeders for one rip takes less than one minute. Add in top of the blade dust collection through the wheels, and it's well worth it.

[Alan Lightstone]

I use magnetic featherboards and either the JessEm guides or my similarly constructed fence for ripping thin cuts on my ICS.

Never do without them.

I actually have a power feeder I had once installed on my router table just sitting on the floor. I'd love to figure out a way to use it on my SawStop ICS.

[Jon Snider]

I’m surprised. I would have guessed the majority of the responses would have said most rip w/o any accessories. At our woodworking clubs and other shop visits I don’t recall seeing many, and they don’t appear to be too common on the recent videos I’ve watched. Thx. Jon

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks for mentioning this Rod. It’s something I’ve thought about. Suggestions anyone on a good brand or set-up? Thanks.

Hi, I have a 1/2HP 3 wheel feeder on my Hammer B3.

I use the feeder when ripping lots of narrowing pieces. Cut quality is much better than I hand feed, and it is much safer...Rod