My Tablesaw has a mustache!

[Jeffrey Makiel]

...Actually I gave it one!

I thought I'd share this dust collection tip: My homemade overarm guard also serves as an overarm dust hood. However, since dust and chips spin tangentially off the blade, the dust and chips would find its way under the front of the guard and into my belly, especially at the end of a cut. So I added a simple piece of doorsweep that is available at any hardware store. I used one by Frost King (R). Just cut it to length and attach. It works extremely well. Here's a pic...http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/DSCF0450676x507.jpg

[Don Frambach]

very cool!!! Thanks for sharing your great idea!!!

[Jim Dunn]

That is neat. Really good idea.

Jim

[Kevin Herber]

Jeff - That is really clever. I suggest you submit it to a couple magazines. I bet you could get some prizes for the best tip.

Good luck and thanks for sharing.

[David LaRue]

Excellent!

I have the Beis Overarm Guard and my DC sucks uup the front flap. This would likely provide the weight I need to keep that from happening and keep the wood dust from flying at me! :) I'm heading to the BORG! :rolleyes:

[David Clark]

Nice work! How about a photo of the complete unit?

[Frank Pellow]

Nice work! How about a photo of the complete unit?
Looks good, and I agree with David that it would be good to see the whole set up.

[Jim Becker]

Jeffrey, that's a great idea! Thanks for sharing it!

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Here are some pics of the entire overarm unit. My first try was loosely based on a Wood Magazine article. However, I found it to be too wobbly, and did not rotate out of the way easily. It was subsequently discarded.

The second try sports a full 4" overarm dust port, as well as the standard 4" dust port on the lower end of the tablesaw. For best results, a 6" duct should serve the entire setup.

The guard can ride over the work, or hover at any set height, or do both because there is a stop that limits the hood's drop. It also swings away easily because the arm incorporates the duct into its design. The hood was sized to incorporate a removable splitter.

No fancy materials were used. Just wood, basic hardware (hatches & hinges), and some aluminum stock from Home Depot. Oh, and also, some coffee cans because they are exactly 4" dia and perfect for flex duct connections.

thanks for the inquiries :)....Jeff


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/MyGuard1.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/MyGuard2.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/MyGuard3.jpg

[David Abel]

...Actually I gave it one!

I thought I'd share this dust collection tip: My homemade overarm guard also serves as an overarm dust hood. However, since dust and chips spin tangentially off the blade, the dust and chips would find its way under the front of the guard and into my belly, especially at the end of a cut. .

I used to have sawdust imbed itself during TS operations. Now I wear a leather apron. No more itching from sawdust impregnated shirts.

[Mike Monroe]

Coffee cans in a DC set-up???

I'm using coffee cans to build my 6" and 5" blast gates.

(Great minds...)

[Jim Becker]

Jeffrey, that's a GREAT setup! Thanks for posting pictures of the whole thing. 'Very innovative with the hinged folding feature, too.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Mike...make sure you empty the beans first or your shop will smell like Starbucks! And don't be frugal...use french roast!

Jim...thanks for the compliment. I stole the idea all by myself!

Jeff :)

[Bill Lewis]

So now you have three suggestions to submit: moustache, coffee can DC adapters, and the swing arm mod!

[Per Swenson]

Jeff,


This is so nice it needs to be back on the front page.

Per

[Larry D. Wagner]

Jeffery

Thanks for showing your guard. If you don't mind I think I will incorporate some of your design into the one I'm going to be working on.

Larry:) :) :)

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Larry,
Be my guest! If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.
cheers, Jeff

[Kent Parker]

Great engineering !:) This is one great unit. What is the counter weight? I don't recognize it as a coffee can.

Regards,

Kent

[Jeffrey Makiel]

The counterweight is simply two 2" dia sch40 PVC caps from Home Depot butted together with a small section of 2" PVC pipe in the middle which you cannot see. No glue was used because the dry fit was very snug and allowed me adjust the fill material which was some odd sized bolts I had laying around. One of the caps was drilled to accept a 3/8 threaded rod which was snugged in place with hex nuts on each side. To my surprise, it actually has a factory look!

cheers, Jeff

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Kent,
I should have also mentioned that you can fill the caps with one or two boxes of common nails which are fairly cheap. Just lie or stack them neatly in place. You can also add and subtract nails to get the weight right. And the right weight means that the hood still drops down by itself, but can be raised with the slightest of pinky finger pressure. Also, make sure your duct hose is hooked up when you adjust the counterweight's weight.

cheers, Jeff

[Dan Forman]

Jeff, this is really nice, I'd like to adapt this for a ceiling mount. May be getting in touch for details in a little bit. I love to see elegant solutions to common problems such as this.

Dan