Precut plywood

[Tom Bender]

My current project requires 9 drawer bottoms of high strength 1/4" plywood. I'd like to avoid the hassle of locating, transporting and cutting down full sheets. Looking to order the pieces cut a little oversized, then sent or pick up if local. Any recommendations on a source? A little north of Detroit.

And to open up the firehose, what material?
Looking for strength not beauty.

Thanks in advance
Tom

[Jim Matthews]

I'm nowhere nearby, but my local cabinet makers have provided short runs for me in the past.

It might cost more than a box store, but available stock is scarce (around here, anyway).

[Jon Grider]

My current project requires 9 drawer bottoms of high strength 1/4" plywood. I'd like to avoid the hassle of locating, transporting and cutting down full sheets. Looking to order the pieces cut a little oversized, then sent or pick up if local. Any recommendations on a source? A little north of Detroit.

And to open up the firehose, what material?
Looking for strength not beauty.

Thanks in advance
Tom

I've been using Home Depot's resource, namely a big panel saw to have sheet goods broken down a bit oversize before loading. First two cuts are free, then I believe it's a buck per cut after that. I have also used their flooring underlayment as drawer bottoms with decent results. May have to sort through their stack to find reasonably flat stock, but it is cheaper than 1/4" ply last I checked. If it's a wide drawer, I double up the bottom. IIR it's a bit over 3/16" thick.

[Jamie Buxton]

The strength of plywood in the way you're using it is mostly set by the thickness, not the species. So buy what's convenient.

When I need a stiffer drawer bottom, I generally make the drawer bottom from two layers of plywood. The top layer is the visible layer, so it is the prettiest face. The bottom layer adds strength even if it doesn't run all the way edge to edge. So I cut up the offcuts left over from cutting out the top layer, and glue those offcuts on the underside of the top layer. Most people build drawers by dadoing the bottom into the sides. That means you have airspace for this stiffening bottom layer. All in, you get stiffer drawer bottoms, and you get to get rid of smaller plywood offcuts -- all for free.

[Richard Coers]

Menards handle partial sheets. I'd just use 1/2" regular plywood if you need the strength. I've done it often.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I have purchased smaller sheets of ply from this source. They may have or be able to provide what you are interested in. I have been pleased with the purchases. No affiliation with them.

https://www.woodworkerssource.com/plywood/14-baltic-birch-12x20-glowforge.html

[Curt Putnam]

The local Rockler has bee known to sell ½ sheets of of BB in various thicknesses. I suspect Woodcraft does too.

[johnny means]

My local borgs sell 2x4 and 4x4 " project panels. It's probably inefficient, but seems convenient.

[Sam Puhalovich]

I do what Jon Grider does ... generally just cut the sheet to 2' x 8' ... a whole-lot easier to handle from there.

[Phil Mueller]

Tom, I usually go to Rockler in Novi. They sell 1/4” and 1/2” baltic birch in sizes 12x30 and 24x30. Or as suggested, HD/Lowes sells 2’x4’ plywood project panels.

[Tom Bender]

Having the box stores rip a sheet works well but it's still box store plywood. I'm looking for better quality with all hardwood plys and no voids. And getting closer to a full 1/4" would be good. Also, a surface of paper thin veneer won't work out. I'll check out Rockler.

[roger wiegand]

My plywood supplier will cut it for a nominal fee, I think something like $1/cut. They will get it within a sixteenth, usually better. Most lumberyards have a panel saw and will rough cut for you. I wouldn't depend on an ordinary lumber yard for precision. And, following way too many bad experiences, I wouldn't buy plywood for furniture I'm building from any of the big box stores. It's no longer worth the headaches to me of dealing with paper thin veneers over voids, lumps and bumps, and sheets that resemble potato chips. Even if you find a good product there this week there's no assurance that next week's identical appearing product won't be crap.

[Jon Grider]

My plywood supplier will cut it for a nominal fee, I think something like $1/cut. They will get it within a sixteenth, usually better. Most lumberyards have a panel saw and will rough cut for you. I wouldn't depend on an ordinary lumber yard for precision. And, following way too many bad experiences, I wouldn't buy plywood for furniture I'm building from any of the big box stores. It's no longer worth the headaches to me of dealing with paper thin veneers over voids, lumps and bumps, and sheets that resemble potato chips. Even if you find a good product there this week there's no assurance that next week's identical appearing product won't be crap.

I'm not going to defend the quality of box store plywood over Baltic Birch or AA grade plywood, and it is inconsistent in quality from week to week. However, decent sheets can still be purchased sometimes and at a much lower price point which can be the determining factor on a project being a project or just a plan for me. I now request help from a box store employee to unstack the unusable potato chips to get down to the flat goods. I use it for cabinets or drawer bottoms, and the edges are either face framed or hardwood edged. I've done several kitchens with HD or Menard's plywood and have not had any complaints. I'm working up a quote on a budget kitchen cabinet job now that would not be possible with premium grade plywood. Not saying it is the best, but with careful selection, it certainly has it's place.

[Curt Harms]

I'm not sure about convenience but I've bought 3/8" birch ply from a 'real' sheet goods supplier. Rabbet the edges so they fit a 1/4" slot.

[Jim Becker]

Having the box stores rip a sheet works well but it's still box store plywood. I'm looking for better quality with all hardwood plys and no voids. And getting closer to a full 1/4" would be good. Also, a surface of paper thin veneer won't work out. I'll check out Rockler.
You might contact your local plywood supplier (one or more that serve the cabinetmakers, etc.) and see if they offer any kind of cutting service. As an alternative, a local cabinet shop may be able to both source and cut your panels for you for a few extra shekels over material cost if they have the time and inclination.

As to the latter part...you're going to be hard pressed to find plywood that is closer to Imperial thickness nominal dimension. The industry went metric "many moons ago". The only products I've used in recent times that are actually Imperial thickness are MDF products. Now that does bring an opportunity for you if you want to kick things up a notch...get the good quality BB plywood and then vacuum veneer your species and grain pattern/figure of choice onto that substrate. Front and back veneer will get you pretty close to that quarter inch you desire and the look will be better than almost any veneer plywood you can source pre-made.

[Tom Bender]

Curt, You're onto something, 3/8" will be a fat 1/4". That I can work with. Now I just have to hunt down quality material. As Roger says, big box material is fair to poor.

[Earl McLain]

If you can't find it closer--Johnson's Lumber in Charlotte, MI would be a good source for Baltic Birch. Or about any other plywood. Their South Bend store has always been willing to rip 5 x 5 sheets for me to fit in my car.
earl