Weogo Reed
02-16-2021, 10:24 PM
Hi Folks,
Shop class in 1971 had a Powermatic tablesaw, I've worked in shops with Rockwell/Delta Unisaws,
on one jobsite we had a Skilsaw screwed under a piece of plywood,
had a 9" Rockwell Contractor's saw and then an 8.25" Makita with a Rousseau fence in my shop.
Over the years have also used Craftsman, and Dewalt & Bosch table-top saws, among others, and
have had my hands on a tilt-table Inca Master.
Currently I'm a volunteer Librarian with the local Tool Library.
A few years ago I sold my 8.25" Makita and got a 10" saw for my current small work space.
Various saws were considered, from those that sit on a table to ones with rolling stands.
I ended up with a Hitachi/Metabo C10RJ and have figured out how to get good results with it:
https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/item/c10rj-10-jobsite-table-saw-w-fold-roll-stand
The new version is the C10RJ-S:
https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/item/c10rjs-10-jobsite-table-saw-w-fold-roll-stand-metabo-hpt
(Does anybody know the difference between these two saws?)
Some deciding factors:
⦁ Nice, folding legs, with one leg height adjustable - fast and easy to set/strike, quite stable and a simple, robust design.
⦁ Wheels allow rolling around, and saw tilts up against wall when not in use.
The wheel axles are cantilevered out a bit of distance and look like they could bend over time. I may reinforce the axles.
⦁ Relatively large, aluminum top. The top is not as flat as I would like, but is adequate. Minor bumps can be sanded down.
Fairly precise work can be done with a sled.
As delivered the top was not aligned with the blade, but had just enough play to get it in adjustment.
⦁ Fence is ok, can go left or right, can support thin, wide stock, locks well front and rear, is square, has large capacity of 35".
The knob for adjusting the fence left/right has a cap that kept popping off and had to be glued in place.
⦁ Miter gauge is minimal but adequate for basic use. Most after-market gauges will fit the slots.
⦁ For my needs, the motor has adequate power, and a no-load speed of 4500RPM.
⦁ Soft-start - This has got to be a bit easier on the drivetrain, and I like how it doesn't 'jump' on startup.
⦁ Electronic-brake - no long waits for the blade to coast to a stop, or running a scrap block of wood in to the blade for a faster stop.
Both of these features add some complexity to the saw, and I know of one saw that had the electronics fail.
⦁ Has height-adjustable, removable splitter. It came out of alignment, but just needed the locking bolt to be tightened properly.
From the factory, removing and re-installing the splitter requires removing and re-installing the
anchoring mechanism, which was a challenge.
Slotting the bottom of the splitter allows for it to be removed/re-set while leaving the anchoring mechanism in place.
Anti-kickback pawls and plastic blade guard go on and off easily and are adequate. Not the same quality as a SharkGuard, and no provision for dust pickup.
⦁ Pretty effective dust port when used with a shop-vac.
Like other tablesaws, over-blade dust collection is needed to get close to 100% pickup.
⦁ At about 100#, heavier than some, lighter than others.
It is compact enough for me.
⦁ Storage for blade wrenches, push stick, power cord, etc.
⦁ Bevel angle lock is acceptable, but a bit awkward. Be careful, or locking can change the angle.
On my saw the lever had to be removed and re-set on the toothed shaft to get it to lock properly.
There are easily accessed allen bolts in the top of the table for setting 0 and 45 degree stops for the blade angle.
⦁ After quite a bit of use, and with minimal lubrication, the blade still goes up and down easily.
⦁ Lots of plastic bits, which is common for most of these lighter-weight saws.
Where the blade carriage rides appears to be UHMW plastic. Sturdy, but how long will it last?
⦁ Factory blade was only adequate for rough construction work.
I'm using better-quality, thin-kerf blades.
⦁ In my opinion, the throat plate is a fail.
It is way too flexible and bends with moderate pressure. This compromises safety.
The glued-on steel bits at the back of the plate come off - what were they thinking?!
The throat plate sits on height adjustment screws at the four corners.
I suggest only using the factory plate for rough work. Make or buy custom plates for precise work, dados, etc
For custom throat plates, it is still possible to use the factory splitter, or a wooden splitter can be glued in place, or
commercial splitters that are removable.
After-market throat plates are available on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124485850737
(Fifty years ago we were taught to have thin scraps of wood on hand to jam in to the wood slot just past the blade,
to keep the wood from clamping down on the blade. This is an excellent solution for three-handed people.)
⦁ Price - it was on sale at $350USD a couple years ago.
⦁ Spec is 3 1/8" depth of cut; I measured 3 3/8".
What would make for a better, compact, lightweight home-shop saw:
My priorities are: simple design with tight tolerances, capable of consistent, precise work.
Provision for easy adjustment of all critical mechanisms.
Durable, repairable. Parts available.
Some of the compromises in this saw are to make it lighter, but
some appear to be there simply to meet a price point.
Many of these compromises are on similar saws.
It would be great to see a precision, lightweight, durable, saw on the market.
I would appreciate hearing your experiences with this and similar saws,
specific questions about the saw, etc.
For a precise, durable, repairable, easy-to-set up and store saw, with a maximum 50Kg/110# weight, what would be your choice?
Maybe the SawStop Jobsite saw comes closest?
I am thankful I don't have to do hours and hours a day of hand sawing and
will likely use this saw till it can't be repaired . . .
Thanks and good health, Weogo
LiveEdge.net Asheville, NC
Shop class in 1971 had a Powermatic tablesaw, I've worked in shops with Rockwell/Delta Unisaws,
on one jobsite we had a Skilsaw screwed under a piece of plywood,
had a 9" Rockwell Contractor's saw and then an 8.25" Makita with a Rousseau fence in my shop.
Over the years have also used Craftsman, and Dewalt & Bosch table-top saws, among others, and
have had my hands on a tilt-table Inca Master.
Currently I'm a volunteer Librarian with the local Tool Library.
A few years ago I sold my 8.25" Makita and got a 10" saw for my current small work space.
Various saws were considered, from those that sit on a table to ones with rolling stands.
I ended up with a Hitachi/Metabo C10RJ and have figured out how to get good results with it:
https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/item/c10rj-10-jobsite-table-saw-w-fold-roll-stand
The new version is the C10RJ-S:
https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/item/c10rjs-10-jobsite-table-saw-w-fold-roll-stand-metabo-hpt
(Does anybody know the difference between these two saws?)
Some deciding factors:
⦁ Nice, folding legs, with one leg height adjustable - fast and easy to set/strike, quite stable and a simple, robust design.
⦁ Wheels allow rolling around, and saw tilts up against wall when not in use.
The wheel axles are cantilevered out a bit of distance and look like they could bend over time. I may reinforce the axles.
⦁ Relatively large, aluminum top. The top is not as flat as I would like, but is adequate. Minor bumps can be sanded down.
Fairly precise work can be done with a sled.
As delivered the top was not aligned with the blade, but had just enough play to get it in adjustment.
⦁ Fence is ok, can go left or right, can support thin, wide stock, locks well front and rear, is square, has large capacity of 35".
The knob for adjusting the fence left/right has a cap that kept popping off and had to be glued in place.
⦁ Miter gauge is minimal but adequate for basic use. Most after-market gauges will fit the slots.
⦁ For my needs, the motor has adequate power, and a no-load speed of 4500RPM.
⦁ Soft-start - This has got to be a bit easier on the drivetrain, and I like how it doesn't 'jump' on startup.
⦁ Electronic-brake - no long waits for the blade to coast to a stop, or running a scrap block of wood in to the blade for a faster stop.
Both of these features add some complexity to the saw, and I know of one saw that had the electronics fail.
⦁ Has height-adjustable, removable splitter. It came out of alignment, but just needed the locking bolt to be tightened properly.
From the factory, removing and re-installing the splitter requires removing and re-installing the
anchoring mechanism, which was a challenge.
Slotting the bottom of the splitter allows for it to be removed/re-set while leaving the anchoring mechanism in place.
Anti-kickback pawls and plastic blade guard go on and off easily and are adequate. Not the same quality as a SharkGuard, and no provision for dust pickup.
⦁ Pretty effective dust port when used with a shop-vac.
Like other tablesaws, over-blade dust collection is needed to get close to 100% pickup.
⦁ At about 100#, heavier than some, lighter than others.
It is compact enough for me.
⦁ Storage for blade wrenches, push stick, power cord, etc.
⦁ Bevel angle lock is acceptable, but a bit awkward. Be careful, or locking can change the angle.
On my saw the lever had to be removed and re-set on the toothed shaft to get it to lock properly.
There are easily accessed allen bolts in the top of the table for setting 0 and 45 degree stops for the blade angle.
⦁ After quite a bit of use, and with minimal lubrication, the blade still goes up and down easily.
⦁ Lots of plastic bits, which is common for most of these lighter-weight saws.
Where the blade carriage rides appears to be UHMW plastic. Sturdy, but how long will it last?
⦁ Factory blade was only adequate for rough construction work.
I'm using better-quality, thin-kerf blades.
⦁ In my opinion, the throat plate is a fail.
It is way too flexible and bends with moderate pressure. This compromises safety.
The glued-on steel bits at the back of the plate come off - what were they thinking?!
The throat plate sits on height adjustment screws at the four corners.
I suggest only using the factory plate for rough work. Make or buy custom plates for precise work, dados, etc
For custom throat plates, it is still possible to use the factory splitter, or a wooden splitter can be glued in place, or
commercial splitters that are removable.
After-market throat plates are available on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124485850737
(Fifty years ago we were taught to have thin scraps of wood on hand to jam in to the wood slot just past the blade,
to keep the wood from clamping down on the blade. This is an excellent solution for three-handed people.)
⦁ Price - it was on sale at $350USD a couple years ago.
⦁ Spec is 3 1/8" depth of cut; I measured 3 3/8".
What would make for a better, compact, lightweight home-shop saw:
My priorities are: simple design with tight tolerances, capable of consistent, precise work.
Provision for easy adjustment of all critical mechanisms.
Durable, repairable. Parts available.
Some of the compromises in this saw are to make it lighter, but
some appear to be there simply to meet a price point.
Many of these compromises are on similar saws.
It would be great to see a precision, lightweight, durable, saw on the market.
I would appreciate hearing your experiences with this and similar saws,
specific questions about the saw, etc.
For a precise, durable, repairable, easy-to-set up and store saw, with a maximum 50Kg/110# weight, what would be your choice?
Maybe the SawStop Jobsite saw comes closest?
I am thankful I don't have to do hours and hours a day of hand sawing and
will likely use this saw till it can't be repaired . . .
Thanks and good health, Weogo
LiveEdge.net Asheville, NC