Anyone Have a Grizzly or Shop Fox Sliding Table Saw?

[Josh Baldwin]

Hey guys I'm about to make my big purchase for the SawStop PCS. Before doing so I can't help but look at the Grizzly/Shop Fox sliding table saws for the same price ($3500). But of course they definitely aren't as nice as Felder or Hammer, however I just can't justify spending 5k+ right now on a table saw.

Are these cheaper models even worth looking at? Any advice would be great, especially if anyone has used/owned one of these.

[Jim Becker]

The Griz 7.5hp short stroke 12" blade slider looks to be a nice machine but one has to deal with three phase to use it. 'Not sure why they didn't slap a nice single phase 5hp motor in that machine, honestly. The SCM/Minimax SC-2 would be more to my liking for a very small slider. I'm not at all excited about the Griz 10" machine's design, but it's certainly a lower cost, single phase short stroke slider in the same general price range as a high end cabinet saw.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Don't know where you are Josh, but I've been trying to ignore this as it's relatively in my back yard

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?289253-FS-48%94-Hammer-K3-Winner&p=3098531#post3098531

[Josh Baldwin]

Don't know where you are Josh, but I've been trying to ignore this as it's relatively in my back yard

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?289253-FS-48%94-Hammer-K3-Winner&p=3098531#post3098531

Ha yea I saw that but unfortunately it's about 8 hours away from me. I may contact him though to see if I could arrange shipping. But wouldn't I still need an outrigger for this to really use it to it's full potential? I couldn't seem to find one to buy online, but I saw peopling saying it's about $1200.

[Josh Baldwin]

The Griz 7.5hp short stroke 12" blade slider looks to be a nice machine but one has to deal with three phase to use it. 'Not sure why they didn't slap a nice single phase 5hp motor in that machine, honestly. The SCM/Minimax SC-2 would be more to my liking for a very small slider. I'm not at all excited about the Griz 10" machine's design, but it's certainly a lower cost, single phase short stroke slider in the same general price range as a high end cabinet saw.

Thanks Jim, good to know. I was worried about the Grizzly/Shop Fox 10" not being especially well made/designed. Unfortunately the Minimax is still over $5k, which I just can't do right now unless I'm mistaken.

[Jack Lilley]

I purchased the G0623X about 4 months ago. I chose this saw for the cost and it fits my shop, I don't have the room for an 8 or 9' slider. I wanted the mini max but the shipping was $1,000 vs $175 I think. The saw has worked well for me so far. I am doing a lot of kitchens these days and wanted the slider for that purpose. It cuts accurate panels so much faster and easier than a traditional cabinet saw. I would never go back. Changing to a dado blade was kind of a pain at the beginning but now that I have done it a few times it doesn't take very long at all. I'm happy with the saw especially at this price point. I still would rather of had the mini max but just couldn't justify it at this time.

[Terry Therneau]

We now know you are 8 hours from Tenn, but not which direction :-) There is a short stroke Laguna slider in Mid Wisconson, which looks to be a pretty good saw.
Terry T.

[Josh Baldwin]

We now know you are 8 hours from Tenn, but not which direction :-) There is a short stroke Laguna slider in Mid Wisconson, which looks to be a pretty good saw.
Terry T.

Sorry, I'm in Richmond VA.

[Josh Baldwin]

The Griz 7.5hp short stroke 12" blade slider looks to be a nice machine but one has to deal with three phase to use it. 'Not sure why they didn't slap a nice single phase 5hp motor in that machine, honestly. The SCM/Minimax SC-2 would be more to my liking for a very small slider. I'm not at all excited about the Griz 10" machine's design, but it's certainly a lower cost, single phase short stroke slider in the same general price range as a high end cabinet saw.

Hey Jim, so the SC 2C Minimax is considered a small slider, but it can still crosscut a full sheet of plywood right? The larger ones just have increased rip capacity on the slider I assume. Is that correct?

[Josh Baldwin]

I purchased the G0623X about 4 months ago. I chose this saw for the cost and it fits my shop, I don't have the room for an 8 or 9' slider. I wanted the mini max but the shipping was $1,000 vs $175 I think. The saw has worked well for me so far. I am doing a lot of kitchens these days and wanted the slider for that purpose. It cuts accurate panels so much faster and easier than a traditional cabinet saw. I would never go back. Changing to a dado blade was kind of a pain at the beginning but now that I have done it a few times it doesn't take very long at all. I'm happy with the saw especially at this price point. I still would rather of had the mini max but just couldn't justify it at this time.

Hey Jack what are the main features you feel like you're missing by not having the Mini Max? Is it just more of a quality feel or actual features? Does the Grizzly easily lock in at 90 degrees? Any problems with it at all? Thanks for the help!

[Peter Kelly]

Hey Jim, so the SC 2C Minimax is considered a small slider, but it can still crosscut a full sheet of plywood right? The larger ones just have increased rip capacity on the slider I assume. Is that correct?Correct, the SC2 can easily crosscut a 4x8 sheet.

[Jack Lilley]

Hey Jack what are the main features you feel like you're missing by not having the Mini Max? Is it just more of a quality feel or actual features? Does the Grizzly easily lock in at 90 degrees? Any problems with it at all? Thanks for the help!
Josh it is really just the quality as you suggest, not features. My experiance with Grizzly tools is that they usually get the job done but the fit and finish is not always the best. While this saw does what it is supposed to do it would not hold it's own with the mini max in that regard. It locks at 90 every time and will make very accurate cuts. I have had zero problems with the saw and I have used it quite a bit.

[Stewart Lang]

Yes, I'd definitely recommend it. I owned one for quite a while. I've also seen similar Hammer saws and wasn't too impressed. Felder is probably a step up though.

I wrote a detailed review here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?275570-2019-Grizzly-G0623x-10-quot-Sliding-Table-Saw-Review

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim, good to know. I was worried about the Grizzly/Shop Fox 10" not being especially well made/designed. Unfortunately the Minimax is still over $5k, which I just can't do right now unless I'm mistaken.
List price for the SC-2 is $4999 at last glance. Have a conversation with Sam Blasco and see what the possibilities are. Do the same with the Hammer/Felder rep for your geography Do keep in mind that short stroke sliders are more adept at cross cutting and ripping tends to get done more conventionally with the rip fence. They provide the benefits of both a cabinet saw and the insane repeatability of a true slider. That latter part is why I'd never go back to a cabinet saw if I have the choice.

[eugene thomas]

looking at the not well made saw now as write this. if had 5 grand to spend and had no saw would buy grizzly again and spend the savings on other tools. lot easier to get parts for saw also. if grizzly part on backorder shop foxx will probally have...

[Josh Baldwin]

looking at the not well made saw now as write this. if had 5 grand to spend and had no saw would buy grizzly again and spend the savings on other tools. lot easier to get parts for saw also. if grizzly part on backorder shop foxx will probally have...

Haha good to know Eugene. That's a great point about the parts and what worried me about some of the European models. So everything has been ok with yours, no issues? Thanks for the help!

[Jim Becker]

if grizzly part on backorder shop foxx will probally have...
Conveniently...it's the same company. :)

[Josh Baldwin]

Part of this may also come down to how quickly I can get one of these saws (Grizzly or SawStop as of now). I was planning on buying the SawStop from Woodcraft, but now they're backordered for 3 weeks. I would have ordered it sooner, but they were in stock at the time and I couldn't take delivery. We move into the new house on the 5th of March and I was hoping to have it delivered that same day.

Anyone know who I can call that might have one in stock or can get it soon? I've talked to Woodcract, CPO Outlets, Beaver Tools and Rockler so far.

[Jim Becker]

These days, it seems like almost "anybody" sells SawStop...even Grizzly. 'Just keep emailing/dialing until you find one in the configuration you want. But don't be heck bent on a specific arrival date. While I fully appreciate and approve that you want to get in on my birthday :D when you move into your new home...it would be a great way to celebrate everything...that may be a tough row to hoe. ;)

[Stewart Lang]

Part of this may also come down to how quickly I can get one of these saws (Grizzly or SawStop as of now). I was planning on buying the SawStop from Woodcraft, but now they're backordered for 3 weeks. I would have ordered it sooner, but they were in stock at the time and I couldn't take delivery. We move into the new house on the 5th of March and I was hoping to have it delivered that same day.

Anyone know who I can call that might have one in stock or can get it soon? I've talked to Woodcract, CPO Outlets, Beaver Tools and Rockler so far.

Where are you located in the US? Grizzly has the slider in-stock for the west side of the U.S. Honestly unless you're short on space, I wouldn't bother with the SawStop or any TS. It's a quality machine, but a slider is far superior than any table saw (unless all you do is rip), but for furniture making a slider is superior. Once you use one you'll never go back. A table saw is just a blade sticking up in the middle of a box lol, but a slider has so much more capability inherently by design. The Grizzly is surprisingly compact too.

[Josh Baldwin]

Where are you located in the US? Grizzly has the slider in-stock for the west side of the U.S. Honestly unless you're short on space, I wouldn't bother with the SawStop or any TS. It's a quality machine, but a slider is far superior than any table saw (unless all you do is rip), but for furniture making a slider is superior. Once you use one you'll never go back. A table saw is just a blade sticking up in the middle of a box lol, but a slider has so much more capability inherently by design. The Grizzly is surprisingly compact too.

I'm in Richmond VA. Thanks for the input. My main concern with the smaller sliders is trying to figure out what my major benefit is. I like the idea a lot. But a cabinet saw with my Incra 5000 Sled seems to be about the same for crosscuts up to about 12" or so. Now obviously with large crosscuts then the slider becomes a much better tool. I'm just wondering if it's worth giving up the safety of the saw stop considering anything I want to rip over 4' or so I'll still have to use the standard fence. I'm just so torn about the whole thing. I think if I could get a full size slider for under $5000 it would be an easy choice, but with these smaller ones I worry I'll only really see the advantages with large crosscuts. Please let me know if I'm thinking about all of this incorrectly as I've never owned a slider before and thanks again for the input.

[Josh Baldwin]

These days, it seems like almost "anybody" sells SawStop...even Grizzly. 'Just keep emailing/dialing until you find one in the configuration you want. But don't be heck bent on a specific arrival date. While I fully appreciate and approve that you want to get in on my birthday :D when you move into your new home...it would be a great way to celebrate everything...that may be a tough row to hoe. ;)

Haha yea it won't make it or break it for me. It's just that upon moving in I have to build kitchen cabinets, bookcases, tons of trim, etc right away, so I was hoping to use the new, safer saw.

[David L Morse]

I've had the G0623 for about 10 years now. I'm very happy with it. If you think you will be cutting a lot of sheet goods don't forget about the scoring blade. It can make a huge difference.

[Stewart Lang]

I'm in Richmond VA. Thanks for the input. My main concern with the smaller sliders is trying to figure out what my major benefit is. I like the idea a lot. But a cabinet saw with my Incra 5000 Sled seems to be about the same for crosscuts up to about 12" or so. Now obviously with large crosscuts then the slider becomes a much better tool. I'm just wondering if it's worth giving up the safety of the saw stop considering anything I want to rip over 4' or so I'll still have to use the standard fence. I'm just so torn about the whole thing. I think if I could get a full size slider for under $5000 it would be an easy choice, but with these smaller ones I worry I'll only really see the advantages with large crosscuts. Please let me know if I'm thinking about all of this incorrectly as I've never owned a slider before and thanks again for the input.

It largely depends what you're doing. For furniture making the slider opens up plenty of possibilities for jigs on the slider. Sleds on a TS are fine, but a slider is a dedicated, precision version. Especially if you start doing joinery on anything over 24" long, the slider becomes much more capable. Obviously crosscutting anything over 12" is so much easier on the slider too. Keep in mind when you start learning how to use a slider, you'll find your fingers get farther and farther away from the blade. A regular TS tends to teach us to keep our hands close to the blade because the T-slots are so close. But a slider your hands are almost always a few feet away. You can clamp your entire workpiece down to the slider and push through the cut with one finger 3 feet from the blade. You can also rip using the slider with the same principle, so you don't always need to be on the "fence" side, you can work from the slider side for ripping. On long rips though, yes you'll need to be on the fence side, but the Grizzly has a decent blade guard that should never let your fingers get close to the blade (A shark guard is an even better, safer option) and with a push stick, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. A Sawstop is really only needed to counteract the bad principles that regular TS's teach. Learn to use a slider and you'll find you'll naturally be cutting safer, and a shutoff on the blade becomes pretty irrelevant.

Also keep in mind a Sawstop ruins the blade each time, and you also have to buy a new cartridge. So yes it's great that it keeps you safe, but it's also expensive especially if you accidentally trip it. A slider keeps you safe for free by naturally keeping your hands away :)

[Josh Baldwin]

I've had the G0623 for about 10 years now. I'm very happy with it. If you think you will be cutting a lot of sheet goods don't forget about the scoring blade. It can make a huge difference.

That's a great point, I definitely love the idea of the scoring blade. Can you tell me how you measure your crosscuts/rip width? I've read a few people saying because the miter/crosscut fence moves that the measuring tape on the fence is kind of useless. Is that wrong or do you use a difference method? Thanks

[David L Morse]

Can you tell me how you measure your crosscuts/rip width? I've read a few people saying because the miter/crosscut fence moves that the measuring tape on the fence is kind of useless. Is that wrong or do you use a difference method? Thanks

I normally use the scales. I periodically check calibration and haven't had to readjust either scale in ten years.

I will say that they are not as easy to use as the hairline cursor on my old Biesemeyer. It takes some practice. On really critical measurements I sometimes use a short steel rule so I have markings to align rather than sighting along an edge.

Also, the flip stops may need to be adjusted to make them square to the fence. I don't think that's in the manual.

[Joe Hendershott]

On long rips though, yes you'll need to be on the fence side

I agree with everything except this. This is where the slider really shines. With a simple shop made jig To keep things parallel I can rip 8' narrow pieces perfectly. Google 'Fritz and Franz' and see what can be done. Also, as stated before, your hands are never even close to the blade if you are doing things correctly on the slider. There is a learning curve as you approach a lot of things differently but afterwards you never look back.

I had the chance to experience a Grizzly slider last year (it was the larger 3 phase) before getting my SC4e and can say the fit and finish, along with the smoothness of the slider and layout of the controls is far below a Minimax machine. It sure gets the job done and it just depends on your expectations. I'm at the point where I want to enjoy using the tools I have and most likely the saw will be the last one I ever buy. If you enjoy using a Ryobi or HF tool (and I see that as good) then the Griz is fine. If you need to have Festool stuff then it will be a let down. To each their own.

Edited to add: I waited at least 3 months for mine, before considering anything else you might check the lead times.

[Stewart Lang]

I agree with everything except this. This is where the slider really shines. With a simple shop made jig To keep things parallel I can rip 8' narrow pieces perfectly. Google 'Fritz and Franz' and see what can be done. Also, as stated before, your hands are never even close to the blade if you are doing things correctly on the slider. There is a learning curve as you approach a lot of things differently but afterwards you never look back.

I had the chance to experience a Grizzly slider last year (it was the larger 3 phase) before getting my SC4e and can say the fit and finish, along with the smoothness of the slider and layout of the controls is far below a Minimax machine. It sure gets the job done and it just depends on your expectations. I'm at the point where I want to enjoy using the tools I have and most likely the saw will be the last one I ever buy. If you enjoy using a Ryobi or HF tool (and I see that as good) then the Griz is fine. If you need to have Festool stuff then it will be a let down. To each their own.

Edited to add: I waited at least 3 months for mine, before considering anything else you might check the lead times.

You're absolutely right, except the Griz he's looking at is a short stroke, so you can only rip about 60" on the slider, hence why I said that for him :) But you're right, with a full size slider you almost never need to be on the fence side of things.

[Bob Hardin]

Don't know where you are Josh, but I've been trying to ignore this as it's relatively in my back yard

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?289253-FS-48%94-Hammer-K3-Winner&p=3098531#post3098531
Make you a deal on it. Lol

[Bob Hardin]

Ha yea I saw that but unfortunately it's about 8 hours away from me. I may contact him though to see if I could arrange shipping. But wouldn't I still need an outrigger for this to really use it to it's full potential? I couldn't seem to find one to buy online, but I saw peopling saying it's about $1200.
Josh,
In my opinion, a track saw is much cheaper and easier to use for cutting down ply. Manhandling a 4x8 onto the saw can get intereting.

[Curt Harms]

Josh,
In my opinion, a track saw is much cheaper and easier to use for cutting down ply. Manhandling a 4x8 onto the saw can get interesting.

That is why my conventional table saw has a narrow rip capacity. Manhandling a 4 X 8 sheet of 3/4" goods isn't my idea of a good time, especially in a compact space. A second reason is storage. I guess a slider would have more space around it so my reasons may not be applicable.

[Jim Becker]

It seems that the first thing many folks think when they hear "slider" is sheet goods. There are many of us who own sliders who rarely cut sheet goods...they are amazing machines when used to full potential. Different for many operations from a North American Cabinet saw, but no less valid for working with solid stock.

[Jacob Mac]

Just being able to straight line rip a long board and avoid the jointer seems like it would be worth it.

[Jim Becker]

Just being able to straight line rip a long board and avoid the jointer seems like it would be worth it.
Yup...something I do with every board. I haven't edge jointed in a very long time...I only do faces on the J/P and then thickness and then rip on the slider.

[Jacob Mac]

Yup...something I do with every board. I haven't edge jointed in a very long time...I only do faces on the J/P and then thickness and then rip on the slider.

Ya you convinced me, a good slider is next on my list, well that or a drum sander. It seems like it would be a great fit for how I want to work.

[Jim Becker]

Jacob, there is a period of time where one has to rethink the "how" and develop new habits, but it's a great way to work. Yes, sometimes it's "slower"...but I'm not a production shop and honestly, a more moderate pace can often reduce the mistakes that often come from rushing. I honestly enjoy using the machine and that counts for a lot.