Attic Stairs???

[John Terefenko]

This summer one of the projects I need to have done is put an attic stair system for my attic. The pull down version. Right now I always have to grab a ladder. Been meaning to do this for many years but now that I am remodeling, need to get done. My question for those in the know, what is a good brand that can support 350 lbs?? Any do's and don'ts and or things to beaware of. Hopefully I can increase the width of opening that I have now. Aluminum VS wood??? They all seem basic but just like everything you get what you pay for. I do not mind paying a little more if it is justified. Basic ceiling height. Thanks.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would see if there was a way to do a motorized lift. Even if you had to enlarge the opening in the ceiling, the fold down attic steps are a pain, and I’m not sure if they will do 350lbs.

[John Terefenko]

Thank you Jim. I did not even notice that.

[Rob Damon]

One thing that never seems to come up about changing from a attic hatch door and a permanent drop down ladder is the electrical wiring within 7' of the access opening must be protect if they are laying on top of the joist.

[Bruce King]

On a previous house I ordered the aluminum one at Lowe’s. Might have yours in stock but mine were in a garage with 10 1/2 ft height. Don’t forget the final nailing when you install it like many contractors do. Tack it in with screws to make sure it’s lined up and all. Then you will usually need all sorts of shim thickness. Take the screws back out if they are in the locations where nails go. Don’t use screws. They don’t have the shear strength of 16d framing nails. There will be several holes to nail through. Nails go on all four sides. Don’t leave any gaps where the nail goes through any air. The side rails must mesh together perfectly when it’s down or you have a major loss of strength. I’ve climbed up thousands of these while pulling myself up with my arms so the defective installation didn’t kill me. Some I didn’t even try and had to put a ladder up.

[John Terefenko]

One thing that never seems to come up about changing from a attic hatch door and a permanent drop down ladder is the electrical wiring within 7' of the access opening must be protect if they are laying on top of the joist.
Being an electrician I have the electrical taken care of. Ran wires for light and power there 2 years ago. It is not a stand up. It is a crawl space but 2 years ago I put a few sheets of plywood up ther cut in half and when the air conditioning guys did their thing, I told them to lay it out anywhere you need it so both you can crawl on it and also for support of their equipment if need be. They did so and actually were very happy about that. Still more up there so plenty of coverage and no falling through rafters and ceilings.

[Tom M King]

I put in one in a rental house, for installation of a new air handler. I don't remember the brand, or even what I paid for it, but it wouldn't have been That much, or I would have remembered. It's pretty good, and is not only heavier duty than most of them you see, but it operated pretty easily also.

I'll check it out the next time I go over there, and report back.

[John Terefenko]

I put in one in a rental house, for installation of a new air handler. I don't remember the brand, or even what I paid for it, but it wouldn't have been That much, or I would have remembered. It's pretty good, and is not only heavier duty than most of them you see, but it operated pretty easily also.

I'll check it out the next time I go over there, and report back.

Please do. Interested.

[David Linnabary]

Wanting a wider attic stair I went with Rainbow. My situation allowed me to frame out an opening 30 1/3” wide. They have 350 lb. rated models. While on the pricey side, I wanted something that I felt confident to have others using.

David in Sunbury, Ohio

[Bruce King]

I forgot to mention in my post about the cut trusses I found also. Don’t do that either.

[John Goodin]

I have been in hundreds of attics and the aluminum stairs are better than wood. The higher weighted rated stairs and longer lengths are also typically aluminum. It is common to have issues where hinges are located and two wood leg sections meet. My stairs are at the end of their useful life and I will replace with a aluminum version when time permits.

[Patrick Grady]

Another note is to add in some substantial and reliable hand grabs up in the attic around the opening as well as up on the overhead rafters. I finally added these to my 'foldie' after years of risking a 50K hospital bill every time I carried up an object precariously balanced on my shoulder while wiggling up through the opening. I used the sturdiest 'bath/dock' grabs I could find and painted them with fluorescents and mounted 'em like someones life depends on them. When climbing back down, I have a firm hand grip on something until I am inches from the safety of the floor.

[Ole Anderson]

Built my home in 1975 attic stairs were the creaky wooden ones. Replaced them 2007 when the price for the 350# aluminum ones (Louisville ladder from HD) were competitive with the wood ones. All my Christmas decorations, 10 totes, two big boxes and 5 bags, get lugged up and down each year.

[John Terefenko]

Lot of good suggestions here. Just to let you know I am reading them all. Thanks. i like the grab rail idea.

[Tom M King]

Just bumping this up, so I'll remember to check when this ice storm passes.

[John Terefenko]

Just bumping this up, so I'll remember to check when this ice storm passes.
I am watching Tom