Compressor Question

[Thomas Wilson80]

I took a turning class and they had compressed air lines at each lathe which I found very convenient. Is something like that doable/simple enough for a small turning shop?

I’m getting ready to put my DC in a cold storage room next to my small basement workshop and wondered about adding a compressor. Both would be behind a cement wall which should help with noise and space conservation. The compressor would only be for basic uses (blowing out hollow forms, when using Forster bits, etc.). Is there a simple way to do this? In searching compressors on the workshops forum everything I found was way too complex for my simple needs. Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks,
Tom

[Ron Selzer]

1/2" copper run lines where you want
install a drip leg at each outlet
OR
Rapid air , have read good things about it
DO NOT INSATLL pvc lines for air lines
black iron is the old stand by

[David Walser]

Tom -- Doing as you suggest is very doable. For years I've had an 8-gallon hotdog style air compressor residing under the workbench in my detached shop. Six-feet of rubber air-hose connected the compressor to a 50' hose reel. (I could have gotten by with a much shorter hose in the reel, but that's what the reel came with.) It worked very well for the kinds of things you want to do. It also handled my brad nailer and similar air tools. Being under the bench, between two columns of drawers, the noise was mitigated somewhat. If I used the compressor more frequently, I would have enclosed it in a box with a baffle.

Given that experience, I believe a small air compressor would supply plenty of air for your intended uses. You could easily run a short rubber hose through the concrete wall to connect to a hose reel. Or, as Ron suggested, use copper pipe. The only downside I see to putting the compressor in another room is the need to drain the tank after use. For some of us, that's easy to forget when the compressor is in the shop in plane view. It's easier to forget when the compressor is out of sight.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Tanks for the replies. For my purposes, maybe it would be sufficient to just keep my little 3 gal 1/3hp harbor freight compressor under the workbench with a 10’ hose attached and just turn on when needed. My shop is only 9x14’ so that should reach everywhere!

[Chris A Lawrence]

I have an old craftsman 20 gallon air compressor that i keep in my basement on the other side of the house from my shop. I used t's and vinyl air lines from HF to run a line to my shop in my garage. I added a 5 gallon storage tank. One of the portable air tanks HF sells that i stripped all the fittings from it and put a bushing and t on to put it inline. I built a remote switch for the compressor that i use Alexa voice commands to turn the compressor on and off. The airlines and t's are not that expensive at HF and you can get repair kits to shorten the airlines up if you need to.

[carl mesaros]

I took a turning class and they had compressed air lines at each lathe which I found very convenient. Is something like that doable/simple enough for a small turning shop?

I’m getting ready to put my DC in a cold storage room next to my small basement workshop and wondered about adding a compressor. Both would be behind a cement wall which should help with noise and space conservation. The compressor would only be for basic uses (blowing out hollow forms, when using Forster bits, etc.). Is there a simple way to do this? In searching compressors on the workshops forum everything I found was way too complex for my simple needs. Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks,
Tom

Great idea to have your DC and air compressor in a separate room. Both can be annoying noise wise.
The simplest solution for me was to purchase a 50 ft.(or what ever length you require) decent quality air hose and left a small coil hung on a hook at the lathe. Worked well for me.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Great idea to have your DC and air compressor in a separate room. Both can be annoying noise wise.
The simplest solution for me was to purchase a 50 ft.(or what ever length you require) decent quality air hose and left a small coil hung on a hook at the lathe. Worked well for me.

That was what I envisioned at first but then reading other posts, it seemed way more complicated with copper lines and drain valves, etc. I’m new to this and appreciate everyone’s input!

With your setup, do you just manually turn the compressor on/off when using and then drain at the end of each use?

Thanks,Tom

[Alex Zeller]

I used leftover PEX line from building my house. I bought some "one touch" connectors so it was super simple. Just cut the PEX to the length you want and the connector just slides onto the end of the tube. I think you can get a 50' roll of 1/4" from the box store for well under $20. I think the SharkBite connectors are kind of pricey but the box stores usually have them in stock too.

[carl mesaros]

That was what I envisioned at first but then reading other posts, it seemed way more complicated with copper lines and drain valves, etc. I’m new to this and appreciate everyone’s input!

With your setup, do you just manually turn the compressor on/off when using and then drain at the end of each use?

Thanks,Tom

I usually just leave it on unless I'm not going to be in the shop for a couple of days.
Also I have to remember to drain the air tank at least once a week. Depending where you live and the time of year a compressor can generate a lot of water.

[tom lucas]

I bought a california air 20 gal. compressor. It has two outputs. I run two separate hoses. One to the shop/lathe, and the other out back to a hose reel I use on the tractors. The CA compressor is so quiet! You can carry on a conversation right beside it without shouting. But I still have it in another room. When it comes on I can barely hear it. If you don't have a compressor with multiple outputs and you want this, simply install a splitter or multiport manifold. Not need to overcomplicate it unless you are running expensive tools that need dry air & constant lubrication.

[Richard Coers]

What's complex about a compressor and a rubber hose? You don't need to get complicated with pipe if you only want it by the lathe.

[John K Jordan]

That's what I did in my shop. I ran RapidAir plastic tubing through the walls with 8 outlets around the shop and outside (and reels for outside air tools and tires). At the lathe I use compressed air to blowing out chips, clearing dust, to provide a continuous stream of cooling and clearing air when drilling deep holes with a forstner bit, and for operating various pneumatic tools such as a pneumatic file and small random orbital sanders.

One of the outlets. BTW, the red arrow in the picture was for describing to someone the type of quick connects I prefer - they operate with just one hand.

451473

I built a 4x8' sound-insulated closet for the cyclone and the 5hp air compressor. I put a pipe through the wall to feed the valves, dryer, and regulator and built a manifold to feed three lines to different parts of the shop and outside. It doesn't need to be that complicated - I use my shop for a lot more than woodturning. At minimum I'd put an electrical disconnect outside the closet to shut off the compressor when leaving without having to go into the closet. (I know a guy who lost his shop to fire when a compressor malfunctioned and ran continuously when he wasn't there.) A water separator could keep most water out of the lines and an inexpensive regulator might be necessary if your compressor pumps to higher pressure than some air tools can take (often about 90 psi). All these are very easy to connect.

I do like the air lines in the walls but they could be fastened to a wall or ceiling. RapidAir makes clips for their tubing. I do not like air lines (or extension cords) stretched across the shop.

JKJ



I took a turning class and they had compressed air lines at each lathe which I found very convenient. Is something like that doable/simple enough for a small turning shop?

I’m getting ready to put my DC in a cold storage room next to my small basement workshop and wondered about adding a compressor. Both would be behind a cement wall which should help with noise and space conservation. The compressor would only be for basic uses (blowing out hollow forms, when using Forster bits, etc.). Is there a simple way to do this? In searching compressors on the workshops forum everything I found was way too complex for my simple needs. Any suggestions or advice?

Thanks,
Tom

[Brice Rogers]

I've got a 30 year old Craftsman air compressor and it is still working fine. I hooked it up to a PVC distribution system with four outlets in my workshop. It is great. I have one by my lathe, one at a workbench, one at another workbench and one that I can snake outside. Absolutely great.

People tell me (probably people who have never used PVC or never had a personal problem) that if the PVC breaks, it'll be like a grenade went off. I don't entirely believe this. PVC is not brittle. In fact it is probably less brittle than copper.

But I've got perhaps 4000 feet of PVC used for irrigation around my property (under about 100-140 psi) and I've never had one ruptured after 25 years. I've had a couple of glued joint fail (gently). Also, I have some coiled hosed connected to the aircompressor system. They are made for compressed air and are pvc. When they fail, they will probably develop a leak and not explode like a pound of C4.

I would be interested in any FIRST HAND reports of PVC (indoors) bursting open and shreading shrapnel. I think that this is a myth.

My air compressor doesn't make a lot of noise because it cycles infrequently. So, I don't think that it matters much if it is muffled behind an enclosure or not.

I'd recommend proceeding with a distribution system for your AC. You'll love it.

Now let all those that have never had a PVC failure tell me how dangerous it is based on ???....

I used 1/4 turn PVC irrigation ball valves. They seem to work very well. No Problems.

So, I'd recommend running a bunch of Schedule 40 (rated at 450 psi) PVC irrigation tubing for distributing the compressed air. It is cheap and easy to install. At 100 psi, it is unlikely to ever exceed the 450 psi rating.

[Alex Zeller]

Can you use PVC, sure. But it's not wise. PVC's pressure ratings are for new pipe. As it ages it's strength drops. There's a reason why OSHA doesn't allow the use of PVC for compressed airlines above ground. It's your shop, do as you wish. But there's much better solutions that don't cost much more and are easier to install. If you don't think PVC can explode do a simple search on-line and you'll see plenty of failures.

[Dave Fritz]

Noise was a problem for me. I'd be doing some delicate work and the darned thing would come on, yes I know I have a leak somewhere. I sold that compressor and bought a California compressor and love it. Rapid Air lines to three locations. Works for me.

[David Walser]

That was what I envisioned at first but then reading other posts, it seemed way more complicated with copper lines and drain valves, etc.
...

Tom -- You don't need to run a hard line (copper or otherwise) to do what you want. You can use regular air hose for everything. I suggested a hose reel simply because it allows you to get the hose where you want it and easily put it out of the way when you don't need it. If you're NOT going to use compressed air anywhere but the lathe, just run the hose along a wall or across the ceiling to the lathe. Done.

The reason for suggesting a hard line for going through the wall is that any vibration transferred by the compressor to the hose, or by movement of the hose while you're using it, may cause the hose to rub on the concrete -- potentially causing a leak over time. (Probably a really long time.) Again, a hard line is not necessary for going through the wall. You can reduce abrasion on the air hose in a number of ways. My uncle ran an air hose through a concrete wall. The hole was oversize (and may have already been there for another reason). He wrapped the hose in rock wool insulation before stuffing it through the hole. The insulation helped reduce noise infiltration through the hole and prevented the hose from rubbing on the concrete. There are lots of other ways to skin this particular cat.

Good luck!

[Thomas Wilson80]

Tom -- You don't need to run a hard line (copper or otherwise) to do what you want. You can use regular air hose for everything. I suggested a hose reel simply because it allows you to get the hose where you want it and easily put it out of the way when you don't need it. If you're NOT going to use compressed air anywhere but the lathe, just run the hose along a wall or across the ceiling to the lathe. Done.

The reason for suggesting a hard line for going through the wall is that any vibration transferred by the compressor to the hose, or by movement of the hose while you're using it, may cause the hose to rub on the concrete -- potentially causing a leak over time. (Probably a really long time.) Again, a hard line is not necessary for going through the wall. You can reduce abrasion on the air hose in a number of ways. My uncle ran an air hose through a concrete wall. The hole was oversize (and may have already been there for another reason). He wrapped the hose in rock wool insulation before stuffing it through the hole. The insulation helped reduce noise infiltration through the hole and prevented the hose from rubbing on the concrete. There are lots of other ways to skin this particular cat.

Good luck!

thanks for the detailed reply David. My shop will only be 14’ long so maybe I’ll just have the compressor under a bench to start and if it becomes too noisy will drill through the concrete and cover the hose to prevent wear.

Tom

[Paul Haus]

If you run lines, remember that any sags in the line are potential moisture collection points. That's one reason I use copper lines and water collectors along with drip legs in the multiple shops I've plumbed air lines in over the years. I also like to incline the lines so any moisture that gets in the line will run down to the water collector. This can be very important if you do any spraying or using pneumatic tools. Water will screw up either of these things. In my shop I have a water collector about 10' out from the compressor then another at the end of each run. Also fit your compressor so you can drain it on a regular basis.
My 2 cents.

[Thomas Wilson80]

If you run lines, remember that any sags in the line are potential moisture collection points. That's one reason I use copper lines and water collectors along with drip legs in the multiple shops I've plumbed air lines in over the years. I also like to incline the lines so any moisture that gets in the line will run down to the water collector. This can be very important if you do any spraying or using pneumatic tools. Water will screw up either of these things. In my shop I have a water collector about 10' out from the compressor then another at the end of each run. Also fit your compressor so you can drain it on a regular basis.
My 2 cents.
My shop is only 10 x 15’ so I think I’ll just have my compressor under a shelf with a long hose hanging above the lathe - maybe I should keep the hose disconnected from the compressor and only connect it when using (I’ve never used a compressor before when turning at home and have only really wanted it when hollowing, though I’m sure if it were available I’d use it frequently for random things).

Thanks,
Tom

[Mike Nathal]

These quiet air compressors are great. California has a good reputation but there are several other brands also available. Their downside is that the cfm is on the low side, but for my use they are adequate. But the noise level is so low.

[Dave Bunge]

Tom, another reason besides noise to locate the compressor outside your shop is to save space, i.e. not use up valuable real estate inside your shop.

I have a similarly small basement shop, 11'x19'. I put my compressor outside the shop, ran air hose from Harbor Freight through the floor joists above the shop to a central location, punched a hole through the drywall ceiling and connected to a hose reel that's suspended from the ceiling. The hose from the reel easily reaches everywhere in the shop, and retracts out of the way when not in use.

If you do this, be sure to mount the hose reel so it's inside the curtains you will eventually put up around the lathe to keep the wood shavings from flying everywhere in the shop when you turn green wood.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Tom, another reason besides noise to locate the compressor outside your shop is to save space, i.e. not use up valuable real estate inside your shop.

I have a similarly small basement shop, 11'x19'. I put my compressor outside the shop, ran air hose from Harbor Freight through the floor joists above the shop to a central location, punched a hole through the drywall ceiling and connected to a hose reel that's suspended from the ceiling. The hose from the reel easily reaches everywhere in the shop, and retracts out of the way when not in use.

If you do this, be sure to mount the hose reel so it's inside the curtains you will eventually put up around the lathe to keep the wood shavings from flying everywhere in the shop when you turn green wood.

Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?

Also, How have you hung curtains up....I have my lathe in a corner and was hoping that would be sufficient to prevent chips going everywhere but in reality it probably would still cover my entire space and I’m curious about curtains.

Thanks,
Tom

[John K Jordan]

Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?
...
Tom

Not Dave here, but when I had a compressor outside (in a dry area) at a previous shop I plugged it into a receptacle powered from a switch inside the building. I also ran the air into the shop and put a valve there. I did not drain the compressor as much as I should have, but one of the automatic or timed draining devices can take care of that. I bought one for my current shop and big compressor and one of these days I might actually install it...

JKJ

[Dave Bunge]

Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?


My compressor is right outside the door to my shop. When I want to use it, I walk outside the shop and turn it on. I have an overhead light and the compressor both plugged into a power strip. I turn on the power strip, which turns on the overhead light, then I flip the switch to start the compressor. The light reminds me to turn off the compressor at the end of the day. I don't drain it very often. I have a small California Air Tools compressor with an aluminum tank, so I don't worry about corrosion. And I'm not spraying finishes or doing anything that needs a real dry air stream, so I don't worry about it.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Really appreciate it!
Tom